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Chris2018

1996 Kawasaki Mojave KSF250 No Spark

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I couldnt get it to run right for nothing run great at standstill but as soon as I put it in gear just spit and sputter. It would go but just kept cutting out. I kept trying the mixture screw and nothing would fix it. I'm checking now to see if that's what happened

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I went out last night and bought some paint. I was just going to beat it around but figured I have this much time into it already why not fix what needs to be fixed clean it up nice and go from there. I've never actually painted one or gone full out to fix them the right way. Normally cut corners and beat it until it's done. But going to put some effort into it. Will post some pictures later for befor and afters

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I'm getting ready to put it together now and go try it. As far as paint I had my girl pic it up while she was out last night. I told her Kawasaki green she came back with. I mean it does match what someone else already used to paint it once but not what I'm looking for I don't think. She tries though 

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Here are a few pics of the work I did. The color I found on eBay and Amazon. 

PJ1 Color Matched Frame Paint 99-02 Kawasaki Green 12 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00230IC3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UO6DDbBDAQ4ZW

The other colors are standard gloss black for nerf bars and then high heat satin finish on the exhaust.  

The aluminum portion (silencer)  I used an aluminum polish called mother’s.  It’s great for all soft metals.  

Mothers 05101 Mag & Aluminum Polish - 10 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GT6DDb4RMNXGF

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That looks sick. You did a nice job. You use a spray gun or cans. Oh and the main hey is the one with the needle coming in from the other side right? And that gets the smaller hike correct?

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The main is the one with the needle. It gets the larger of the two jets. They have numbers on them. Mine were not legible due to being what looks to be worn or sanded maybe during the cleaning process of the previous owner. So if you can read the numbers then lol at the carburetor section of your manual and it clearly explains where they go.  But for sure the larger hole jet is at the needle location.     

Yes all can spray. Wire wheel in a drill and sand paper. I spray a good prep coat on before and spray away!  The prep coat is a clear type coat that helps the new paint stick well.  

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And FYI all of this material I bought on line for $125 bucks. That includes the new color matching chain and I was missing the air factory box.  That air box assembly was $45 so really it cost me $80 if I wasn’t missing that air box.  That chain was only $20 bucks. 

Edited by Frank Angerano

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Well I think I might have had them in wrong. I seen one was shorted then yhr other so just guessed that it was on top of the other piece lol. And the pain does look real good. I don't think I will be able to do as well but give it what I got 

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Still not working right actually a little worse this time. But if I stick a rag in the end of the air filter box everything works great

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Have you checked the needle on the throttle slide to see what clip it’s on? I would  try to move the clip down one or two spots closer to the bottom. 

And when the engine is running if you can turn the air /fuel screw all the way in the engine should shut down. If not then that screw is worn and needs replacement. The engine should immediately respond to any adjustments on that screw. 

If not then it’s def going to need a new jet kit.  I was looking on eBay and Amazon. It has to be an oem or better brand. It was $27 bucks. It has to have the air fuel screw as well and all jets.    

I would order one and take the carb completely apart and soak it in a good bath for a day or two.   Then blow every port out on that cab with some good air pressure.   

Reassemble and set the air/fuel screw at 2 full turns from a snug position. 

That would be my way to go about it. 

 

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Is the float height in spec? It's most certainly a lean condition whether it's a jet still stopped up or float isnt allowing enough fuel in the bowl to keep jets wet. 

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That could be happening but what I’m referring to is the needle in the carb on the throttle. See the pic. The lower you move the clip the more fuel it allows. 

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I can't see the picture you tried to send. And I'm I just going to order a kit for it just to avoid all the B's, it wouldn't hurt to get it anyways. I didn't get into the carb aga n yet but I'm f it's the needle in thinking if and it has a little c clip in it there is only one spot for it to go. Not saying I looked at it real close either. I'm starting to break it back down see what else needs to be fixed and clean it up at Sam time. Here are a few pictures.

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Would have have any idea where this goes it was in the box of parts and for the life of me I can't remember. I havent messed with these things since I was a kid and I didn't take it apart to be able to remember where it goes. I thought it was the chain roller but it's on there

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Ok so oe will work. Any idea what that part is for I sent you a picture of? It was in the box of parts and I can't figure it out

Edited by Chris2018
Miss type

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I’m sorry I don’t know what you mean. Can you explain better ? I also didn’t get a picture 

That rubber piece with the bolt ? 

That looks like the chain roller bushing.  Take a look at the pic.

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That's what it looks like but there is one on it and I asked the people and they said there wasn't any extra parts lol

Man that bike looks nice

Not going to lie deffeinetly going to steal some of your paint scheme. They painted my foot ped and shit green I like how you're are black

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I noticed you pained the chain too. How did you get just the outside? Or did you paint the outside then tape it and repaint the inside to

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Feel free to take as much of the paint scheme as you like.  I like the black because it gets the most wear and tear down there with the feet.   A bright color would show everything.   

 

That chain was $20 bucks on eBay. 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273576057240

 

 

Edited by Frank Angerano

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So I finally was able to get back out to the garage and work a little more I just replaced the top end gaskets and am a little confused about setting the timing. First the flywheel ended up moving while removing the head. All I had to do was continue the rotation and set it back at top dead center correct? And when setting the timing do you line it up with the "T" on the flywheel it is it the notch. It got me a little confused bc this is the first four-stroke I have worked on.

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