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Frankie

No start issue on my 2006 Ozark 250cc

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Hello i recently purchased a 2006 Ozark 250cc. Im trying to get it started but i get nothing. It does start and has fuel along with spark. I noticed there is a idle dial on the bottom of my carb. how should that be set. I think it is fully open as far as the dial goes. If someone could lead me to the process on how to tune the carb i would appreciate it. Thanks

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well if someone did wind in the idle screw under the carbi, the bike would be harder to start, but most likely would still start up and rev its head off!

to play it safe wind the screw out 5 or 10 turns from where it is (assuming that it is wound all the way in) and try setting it once the bike is running (it can only be set once the bike is running and ideling all by its self)

has the bike been stored with out starting for a long time?

what was the bike like the last time it was running?

these little bikes are just so great and start very well. so there must be somthing going on.

are you using the choke (the little black lever of the left handlebar)?

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Thanks for the reply. Now when i get it to start a lot of smoke burn through the exhaust as if it's burning gas. I get the impression that it is running too rich. I managed to get to idle but when i give it gas it chokes out and like if there is too much fuel running through the carbs. Do you think it may be a jetting issue?

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i dont think it is a jetting problem.

because what you are describing is very bad!

and it would have to be a person changing the jetting, finding it was then running like a dog and blowing smoke and them leaving the bike that way.

initialy I would ask if your airbox if full of fuel?

or is the vacume line on the fuel tap is wet (it is the smaller hose, and should be completely dry inside)

or there is the possobility that the fuel is contaminated with diesile fuel, not petrol.

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Well when i first bought it it had fuel in the airbox even in the crankcase. So i had to do two oil changes to clear the fuel out. I had filled it up with fresh gas since most of the gas when i bought it was in the crankcase. I checked if the fuel tap was working and it is. When i disconnect it no fuel drips out only when i go and start it so that's out the question. Where are the pilot screws on thing. I don't know much about this carb. I have a yamaha banshee and know my way around that carb very well and i can tune it like nothing. I come upon across this here and i am stumped. Any type of feedback i can get i would appreciate it.

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your fuel tap auto shut off can still be working, but what I am talking about is the VACUME line going to the back of the fuel tap.

it is where some vacume is constantly sucking the back of the fuel tap, to open the 1 way valve to get the fuel flow out the OUTLET of the fuel tap.

there is a problem that can happen to the fuel tap where the thin rubber bladder that the vacume pulls against, the thin rubber can be damaged and it can flow straight fuel right through the rubber (which is not ment to do it at all) and the fuel will travel down the vacume line and it enters the inlet track in to the motor and the bike can be iether rich... or even completely flood the motor.

this is why I was asking if the vacume line was dry inside, because if there is even a little wetness, then the rubber bladder is letting fuel through. (which is a cause of the bike running rich)

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Profill, that is a very good diagnosis, seems to make alot of sense. You seem like a very smart guy, who knows his way around these machines really well. However, I must point out one thing, VACUUM. Sorry, I just couln't resist.:wink:

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I took the carb completely apart and noticed that the small diaphragm rubber gasket was not sealing properly. I noticed the black rubber gasket on the diaphragm was pinched wit the one of the screws and was not set in they way it suppose to. Could this issue be my problem of why this thing sounded so rich and flooded my crankcase? Im going to give a shot tomorrow when i get off of work and let you all know if this cured the issue.

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your fuel tap auto shut off can still be working, but what I am talking about is the VACUME line going to the back of the fuel tap.

it is where some vacume is constantly sucking the back of the fuel tap, to open the 1 way valve to get the fuel flow out the OUTLET of the fuel tap.

there is a problem that can happen to the fuel tap where the thin rubber bladder that the vacume pulls against, the thin rubber can be damaged and it can flow straight fuel right through the rubber (which is not ment to do it at all) and the fuel will travel down the vacume line and it enters the inlet track in to the motor and the bike can be iether rich... or even completely flood the motor.

this is why I was asking if the vacume line was dry inside, because if there is even a little wetness, then the rubber bladder is letting fuel through. (which is a cause of the bike running rich)

Im also going to inspect the fuel tap. as well thats some really good advise and never would of thought of that. Thank

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ohhhh feel free to poke!

I had the worst schooling and cant spell to save my self!

if only my spell checker was working on this laptop.

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Alright i have an update on my progress on this Suzuki. Well as Profill has said to check the diaphragm on my fuel tap. Well what do ya know, the diaphragm on my fuel tap was corroded letting fuel into the carb through the vacumm line. I switched fuel tap with my KFX 400 since they are the same and the Ozark ran really well, just a few adjustments but ran excellent. Thank you. Tomorrow to the bike shop i go in hopes they have one in stock. Your very knowledgeable thanks!

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Great!!! Nice to see when something gets fixed form suggestions posted..:yes:

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ohhhh feel free to poke!

I had the worst schooling and cant spell to save my self!

if only my spell checker was working on this laptop.

Looks like you hit the nail right on the head on this one, obviously your spelling ability is no indication of your intelligence. Nice work.

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