PROFILL

Can u give a little more info? I think it is the high low ratio cogs in your gearbox that have or about to be seazed. Can you put the bike into high low and superlow? What about reverse?

yes Mr dirtdemon, regardless of what the original problem is/was the "new" battery is flat. The bike most likely is not charging as he must have gotten a new battery to try to fix it. Also once pulled started, the bike should have taken a 9v battery up to a nice 12v in a few seconds if it was charging normaly. Mr kingquad2430, when you tested your battery and it said 9v. are you able to test the battery volatage when you pull start the bike and make the bike idle? if you get it to start, make the bike rev at about 4 to 5 thousand RPM and tell us the voltage you see. it should be at a minimum 13.4V up to 14.5V while the bike reving.

ohhhh feel free to poke! I had the worst schooling and cant spell to save my self! if only my spell checker was working on this laptop.

your fuel tap auto shut off can still be working, but what I am talking about is the VACUME line going to the back of the fuel tap. it is where some vacume is constantly sucking the back of the fuel tap, to open the 1 way valve to get the fuel flow out the OUTLET of the fuel tap. there is a problem that can happen to the fuel tap where the thin rubber bladder that the vacume pulls against, the thin rubber can be damaged and it can flow straight fuel right through the rubber (which is not ment to do it at all) and the fuel will travel down the vacume line and it enters the inlet track in to the motor and the bike can be iether rich... or even completely flood the motor. this is why I was asking if the vacume line was dry inside, because if there is even a little wetness, then the rubber bladder is letting fuel through. (which is a cause of the bike running rich)

i dont think it is a jetting problem. because what you are describing is very bad! and it would have to be a person changing the jetting, finding it was then running like a dog and blowing smoke and them leaving the bike that way. initialy I would ask if your airbox if full of fuel? or is the vacume line on the fuel tap is wet (it is the smaller hose, and should be completely dry inside) or there is the possobility that the fuel is contaminated with diesile fuel, not petrol.

it sounds like the carbi is dirty or has some water in it. but also could be a broken wire that is getting moved while shacking or braking. what have you found so far?

it is a loverly bike with a good history. most people love the inderpendnt rear suspention, even if it looks a bit strange! it works well. often they get a problem with the fuel tap being broken that lets fuel pass through the vacume line and it floods the motor, but is easy to fix. often the carbi can get worn on the older bikes with high mileage (worn in the needel and needle jet) and it makes the bike run rich. once again easy to fix. and then there is the issue with the carbi getting contaminated with rust dust and dirt which makes its way in to the carbi (but it happens to every bike) some times the slave cyliners in the front brakes get old and rusty and make the brakes get stuck on a little bit, but it is only a every 5 years or so thing to have happen. but it is a good all round bike that suzuki shops (like where I work) sadly miss! and wish it would come back in production, we still have farmers asking for them, even tho is it 6 years after production stopped!

i totaly agree. But kawasaki and suzuki were only "sharing" some models of each others bikes. Kawasaki made the new KXF250 2003-2006 (RMZ250 2003-2006) Suzki inheareted the KX60 KX110 kawasaki inhearited the drz125 drz400E ltz400 There could be more but I cant think off the top of my head. the only motove suzuki could have is to make their bikes with the same motor "be the best" so that people are more inclined to buy the suzuki bike. and thus make more money?

I have no doubt that it is slower. just because I have seen this before in the LTA500 motor that went in to the arcticat atv and DRZ400 motor in the KLX400R and TL1000R motor in Aprilia road bike, were all a bit slower and less power.

I have never seen the KXF400 But I know that "officialy" suzuki gives the same motors to arctic cat, kawasaki, dezus, etc... as what goes in to every other suzuki... But there always seems to be less power with the motors that go in to the other brands! I guess that suzuki is only backing off the size of the cam lobes / timming or maybe just making thicker base gaskets that reduce the compression (without telling anyone) then there is the issue of the other brands chosing diffrent gearing with the sprockets or making a different air box shape (I think when arcitcat used the LTA500 motor in there atv they make a big stuff up with the airbox and lost heaps of power too) either way the bike is still going to be a good bike and can always be made to go faster!

well if someone did wind in the idle screw under the carbi, the bike would be harder to start, but most likely would still start up and rev its head off! to play it safe wind the screw out 5 or 10 turns from where it is (assuming that it is wound all the way in) and try setting it once the bike is running (it can only be set once the bike is running and ideling all by its self) has the bike been stored with out starting for a long time? what was the bike like the last time it was running? these little bikes are just so great and start very well. so there must be somthing going on. are you using the choke (the little black lever of the left handlebar)?

there is a fuel pump under the front left hand side on the front guard. it is driven by the vacum from the motor. most likely it is not broken! they have a good reputation. with the 250 and 300 LTF kingquads made by suzuki, when ever you cannot get fuel to the carbi, just put the fuel tap on to prime, then blow in to the fuel cap vent hose (the one sticking out of the fuel cap) once you clean the dirt off it, blow with your mouth for about 10 seconds with the same sort of pressure you would blow up a baloon. while you are doing this... crank the bike over with the starter button (to activate the fuel pump) this is what every motorcycle shop must do to the LTF 250/300 every time they get a new bike out of the crate and fuel it up for the first time. The LTF seems to have a good pump as far as durability goes, but it is just a little weak when it comes to filling up the carbi when the bike is dry. if you have any doubt about fuel getting to the carbi, pull off the fuel line (the hose that is going to the carbi with the metal spring protective cover) pull it off the carbi and see how much fuel comes out when you crank the bike over. I say this because it is no good chasing a fuel pump problem if you only have a dirty carbi that needs cleaning! Tell us how you go!

hi there, when you say "she was about to blow" are you only refering to it getting hot (and needing to stop for a moment to cool down) or that the bike was also making loud strange noises from the engine?

Hello there. I have come accross this problem and it took me along time to fix! no one in Suzuki Australia has come accross it since the KingQuad has been out. it is a long story... But there are few outcomes. Due to the ECU being a "negative" ground switching device (meaning that when the ECU wants to turn "ON" somthing it dose not "send" 12V to a solinoid, rather it "receives" 12V from the device and finishes the circuit by earthing that 12v to ground) thus it is very hard to diagnose problems with a ECU. you have 2 possoble problems with your fuel pump relay not staying on. 1st there is 2 circuits inside the ECU that control the fuel pump relay. 1 is during the boot up (turn on for 2 seconds to build up initial fuel pressure and ECU gets to see if the pump is electricaly working) 2nd circuit is when the part the controls the fuel pump relay to "stay on" while the motor is running. it is this circuit that seems to be the problem (same as the bike I was working on) at this stage it is 100% recomended to get a electrical schmatic of the bike!!! (in the back of the workshop manule) Due to all the possible problems (broken wire, dead relay, bad earth from ECU to bike, etc...) I will just jump to the cool things. The relay can be "tripped" turning the pump relay on, thus turning the fuel pump on, so that your bike has fuel pressure and it will most likely start up and run fine now. by tripping I mean just putting a wire or pointy nosed plyers accross the part of the relay that gets joined when the relay is turned on normaly. this will make the bike run, but there will be a constant fault code and a FI light on the dash... I ended up finding the "pin" on the ECU and finding the wire in the loom that goes to that pin, and joined it to ground "earth" making the relay turn on. it is a long story but the ECU just forgot or broke.... in that part. it just would not earth to ground that pin, even tho it thought that it was (thus no fault code) The bike can now be started by walking up to it and turning on the key, the pump turns on because of relay is shorted to ground not because of the 2 second circuit. then the rest of the ECU will still work and the bike will run. the only down side to this "fix" is that that bike must be started within 2 seconds (which is no big problem) for eg. If you turn on the key and sit there for over 2 seconds, the ECU during the boot up and 2 seonds test, the 2 seond test will tell the ECU that the "relay did not turn off" and send a fault code to the dash and the FI light will turn on. but the bike will run fine, and the fault code will clear when u turn the key off at the end of the ride. But if the bike it cranked over before the 2 seconds are up, the bike is 100% normal and no fault code. the bike I did this on was a LTA450 K8 that was drowned in the sea... so initaly it came in for a relay due to corrosion on the pins and was fixed with a new relay. Then weeks later is started to glitch and not start up just like you were describing. The owner just didnt want to buy a new ECU and I had to fix it cheaply (but who realy wants to buy a ECU!!!! I dont!) oddly enough we ended up haveing a brand new LTA500XP the next week with the same problem, and the bike had to be "fixed" that same way so it could be sold (it was the last 500 we had) When it comes back for its first service that bike will have a waranty repair on the ECU. your bike should go to a shop who know what it is doing! and best of all if it has a LTA450 like your to swap over a new relay and ECU to test. because if it ends up being the same problem as mine, then it is a easy fix with 1 wire being joined and earthed to the battery negative, it is neat and clean and works great. I just with that I could tell you what caused it.