PROFILL

Can u give a little more info? I think it is the high low ratio cogs in your gearbox that have or about to be seazed. Can you put the bike into high low and superlow? What about reverse?

yes Mr dirtdemon, regardless of what the original problem is/was the "new" battery is flat. The bike most likely is not charging as he must have gotten a new battery to try to fix it. Also once pulled started, the bike should have taken a 9v battery up to a nice 12v in a few seconds if it was charging normaly. Mr kingquad2430, when you tested your battery and it said 9v. are you able to test the battery volatage when you pull start the bike and make the bike idle? if you get it to start, make the bike rev at about 4 to 5 thousand RPM and tell us the voltage you see. it should be at a minimum 13.4V up to 14.5V while the bike reving.

ohhhh feel free to poke! I had the worst schooling and cant spell to save my self! if only my spell checker was working on this laptop.

your fuel tap auto shut off can still be working, but what I am talking about is the VACUME line going to the back of the fuel tap. it is where some vacume is constantly sucking the back of the fuel tap, to open the 1 way valve to get the fuel flow out the OUTLET of the fuel tap. there is a problem that can happen to the fuel tap where the thin rubber bladder that the vacume pulls against, the thin rubber can be damaged and it can flow straight fuel right through the rubber (which is not ment to do it at all) and the fuel will travel down the vacume line and it enters the inlet track in to the motor and the bike can be iether rich... or even completely flood the motor. this is why I was asking if the vacume line was dry inside, because if there is even a little wetness, then the rubber bladder is letting fuel through. (which is a cause of the bike running rich)

i dont think it is a jetting problem. because what you are describing is very bad! and it would have to be a person changing the jetting, finding it was then running like a dog and blowing smoke and them leaving the bike that way. initialy I would ask if your airbox if full of fuel? or is the vacume line on the fuel tap is wet (it is the smaller hose, and should be completely dry inside) or there is the possobility that the fuel is contaminated with diesile fuel, not petrol.

it sounds like the carbi is dirty or has some water in it. but also could be a broken wire that is getting moved while shacking or braking. what have you found so far?

it is a loverly bike with a good history. most people love the inderpendnt rear suspention, even if it looks a bit strange! it works well. often they get a problem with the fuel tap being broken that lets fuel pass through the vacume line and it floods the motor, but is easy to fix. often the carbi can get worn on the older bikes with high mileage (worn in the needel and needle jet) and it makes the bike run rich. once again easy to fix. and then there is the issue with the carbi getting contaminated with rust dust and dirt which makes its way in to the carbi (but it happens to every bike) some times the slave cyliners in the front brakes get old and rusty and make the brakes get stuck on a little bit, but it is only a every 5 years or so thing to have happen. but it is a good all round bike that suzuki shops (like where I work) sadly miss! and wish it would come back in production, we still have farmers asking for them, even tho is it 6 years after production stopped!

i totaly agree. But kawasaki and suzuki were only "sharing" some models of each others bikes. Kawasaki made the new KXF250 2003-2006 (RMZ250 2003-2006) Suzki inheareted the KX60 KX110 kawasaki inhearited the drz125 drz400E ltz400 There could be more but I cant think off the top of my head. the only motove suzuki could have is to make their bikes with the same motor "be the best" so that people are more inclined to buy the suzuki bike. and thus make more money?

I have no doubt that it is slower. just because I have seen this before in the LTA500 motor that went in to the arcticat atv and DRZ400 motor in the KLX400R and TL1000R motor in Aprilia road bike, were all a bit slower and less power.

I have never seen the KXF400 But I know that "officialy" suzuki gives the same motors to arctic cat, kawasaki, dezus, etc... as what goes in to every other suzuki... But there always seems to be less power with the motors that go in to the other brands! I guess that suzuki is only backing off the size of the cam lobes / timming or maybe just making thicker base gaskets that reduce the compression (without telling anyone) then there is the issue of the other brands chosing diffrent gearing with the sprockets or making a different air box shape (I think when arcitcat used the LTA500 motor in there atv they make a big stuff up with the airbox and lost heaps of power too) either way the bike is still going to be a good bike and can always be made to go faster!

well if someone did wind in the idle screw under the carbi, the bike would be harder to start, but most likely would still start up and rev its head off! to play it safe wind the screw out 5 or 10 turns from where it is (assuming that it is wound all the way in) and try setting it once the bike is running (it can only be set once the bike is running and ideling all by its self) has the bike been stored with out starting for a long time? what was the bike like the last time it was running? these little bikes are just so great and start very well. so there must be somthing going on. are you using the choke (the little black lever of the left handlebar)?

there is a fuel pump under the front left hand side on the front guard. it is driven by the vacum from the motor. most likely it is not broken! they have a good reputation. with the 250 and 300 LTF kingquads made by suzuki, when ever you cannot get fuel to the carbi, just put the fuel tap on to prime, then blow in to the fuel cap vent hose (the one sticking out of the fuel cap) once you clean the dirt off it, blow with your mouth for about 10 seconds with the same sort of pressure you would blow up a baloon. while you are doing this... crank the bike over with the starter button (to activate the fuel pump) this is what every motorcycle shop must do to the LTF 250/300 every time they get a new bike out of the crate and fuel it up for the first time. The LTF seems to have a good pump as far as durability goes, but it is just a little weak when it comes to filling up the carbi when the bike is dry. if you have any doubt about fuel getting to the carbi, pull off the fuel line (the hose that is going to the carbi with the metal spring protective cover) pull it off the carbi and see how much fuel comes out when you crank the bike over. I say this because it is no good chasing a fuel pump problem if you only have a dirty carbi that needs cleaning! Tell us how you go!

hi there, when you say "she was about to blow" are you only refering to it getting hot (and needing to stop for a moment to cool down) or that the bike was also making loud strange noises from the engine?

Hello there. I have come accross this problem and it took me along time to fix! no one in Suzuki Australia has come accross it since the KingQuad has been out. it is a long story... But there are few outcomes. Due to the ECU being a "negative" ground switching device (meaning that when the ECU wants to turn "ON" somthing it dose not "send" 12V to a solinoid, rather it "receives" 12V from the device and finishes the circuit by earthing that 12v to ground) thus it is very hard to diagnose problems with a ECU. you have 2 possoble problems with your fuel pump relay not staying on. 1st there is 2 circuits inside the ECU that control the fuel pump relay. 1 is during the boot up (turn on for 2 seconds to build up initial fuel pressure and ECU gets to see if the pump is electricaly working) 2nd circuit is when the part the controls the fuel pump relay to "stay on" while the motor is running. it is this circuit that seems to be the problem (same as the bike I was working on) at this stage it is 100% recomended to get a electrical schmatic of the bike!!! (in the back of the workshop manule) Due to all the possible problems (broken wire, dead relay, bad earth from ECU to bike, etc...) I will just jump to the cool things. The relay can be "tripped" turning the pump relay on, thus turning the fuel pump on, so that your bike has fuel pressure and it will most likely start up and run fine now. by tripping I mean just putting a wire or pointy nosed plyers accross the part of the relay that gets joined when the relay is turned on normaly. this will make the bike run, but there will be a constant fault code and a FI light on the dash... I ended up finding the "pin" on the ECU and finding the wire in the loom that goes to that pin, and joined it to ground "earth" making the relay turn on. it is a long story but the ECU just forgot or broke.... in that part. it just would not earth to ground that pin, even tho it thought that it was (thus no fault code) The bike can now be started by walking up to it and turning on the key, the pump turns on because of relay is shorted to ground not because of the 2 second circuit. then the rest of the ECU will still work and the bike will run. the only down side to this "fix" is that that bike must be started within 2 seconds (which is no big problem) for eg. If you turn on the key and sit there for over 2 seconds, the ECU during the boot up and 2 seonds test, the 2 seond test will tell the ECU that the "relay did not turn off" and send a fault code to the dash and the FI light will turn on. but the bike will run fine, and the fault code will clear when u turn the key off at the end of the ride. But if the bike it cranked over before the 2 seconds are up, the bike is 100% normal and no fault code. the bike I did this on was a LTA450 K8 that was drowned in the sea... so initaly it came in for a relay due to corrosion on the pins and was fixed with a new relay. Then weeks later is started to glitch and not start up just like you were describing. The owner just didnt want to buy a new ECU and I had to fix it cheaply (but who realy wants to buy a ECU!!!! I dont!) oddly enough we ended up haveing a brand new LTA500XP the next week with the same problem, and the bike had to be "fixed" that same way so it could be sold (it was the last 500 we had) When it comes back for its first service that bike will have a waranty repair on the ECU. your bike should go to a shop who know what it is doing! and best of all if it has a LTA450 like your to swap over a new relay and ECU to test. because if it ends up being the same problem as mine, then it is a easy fix with 1 wire being joined and earthed to the battery negative, it is neat and clean and works great. I just with that I could tell you what caused it.

ajmboy, that style of chokin is very common for the older style Honda bikes, which would have a metal plate that would try to block off (choke) the air suply in to the motor making it rich. the other method is to have a choke cable that pulls back a choke plunger that opens a small passage directly from the fuel bowl to the innlet manifold, where a small amount of straight fuel can enter the intake manifold and richen up the fuel mix. this plunger only has a very small spring to return the plunger to the off possision. it is common for either the cable to seaze up with rust of mud, or the choke plunger its self to become clogged up from dirt (that comes from the cable...) and seazes up the choke plunger. normaly on the ltf300 the choke cable can be lubed up and will work again, but the spring can be so rusty and yucky that it is best to replace it. right now if you have the entire choke plunger removed??? you have extra air flowing from the hole where the choke plunger would be living and blocked off by the black plastic cable holder that screws in to the carbi. this air is making the bike alot leaner but also making the bike idle much higher, and most likely hard to start. is there a suzuki shop that can order the cable and new spring for you anywhere there?

Hello there. well the rollers do get a hard life over all, but normaly they can last over 30,000KM or more. the only wearing part is the out side where they can either get a rough finish making them less smooth or flatspots worn on to them. the flat spots normaly only get there when there has been big problems! and I have only seen it once before on a bike that was full of dirt and a broken belt. that sensor in the air box is not a mass air flow meter, it is a air temp sensor. I dont think that any Japanese motorcycle use any form of airflow meter yet. they calculate the flow of air by focusing on the TPS (throttle possision sensor) and the Ait temp in the air box. that is why every LTA700/750 owner needs to have the TPS set just right, or the bike will run like a dog in no time! also your bike could be running a little lean due to low fuel pressure with your pump filter getting due for a replacment. Because the ECU only looks at the TPS and Air temp, and it has no idea what is going on with the fuel pressure (due to no sensor) the bike cannot compensate for it. If only every motorcycle was made like a car! and got a oxygen sensor and the ECU listened to it... things would be so much easyer for motorcycles. Even some of the road bikes that do have a oxygen sensor, the ECU only looks at it when the bike is at full engine temp at just 3000RPM the rest of the time it is ignored.

Hello. So many ATV bike with drum rear brakes do what you are describing. go to the back of the bike. look behind the rear wheel. you will see a metal lever with 2 cables attached to it with adjusting screws and springs. this lever pivots via a shaft that activates your rear brake shoes. it is this shaft that is the number 1 problem with the rear brake on the Eiger. if your problem is this shaft grab hold of it with your hand and push and pull it, it should move by hand with not too much pressure. if it is stuck it will not move at all!!!! dirt gets in to this shaft via the out side and seazes the shaft. thus sticking the rear brake on. you have to pull the whole right wheel and drum appart, take the lever off and punch out the little shaft and clean it all up. grease it all up and put it back in. some people have this happen to them once or twice a year, and other guys it never happens to. I mostly see it on dedicated farm ATV's where they are always in the mud. then there is a very slim chance that it is your foot brake lever. once again grab it and see if it moves. when they are stuck they feel like they have been weilded on!!! you have to pull the right inner foot well off and foot peg etc... and take foot brake lever off and clean it up. this some times can be sooooooooo hard. and often ends up being a big fight with a Oxy tourch and big metal levers!!! even to the point of braking out the mount from the frame (which is not that bad because then you can push it out in a press and just weld the part back in to the frame) some peole have also punched the foot brake lever out with a long punch from the other side of the bike. i wish you all the best with it! I hope that it ends up just being a stuck cable or miss adjustment of the cables. but most likely it will be the rear lever or the foot lever.

being a 2004. check your choke cable. There are lots of LTZ400 that the choke plunger in the carbi or the cable gets rusty and when you pull the choke on, it cant turn off. Even tho you and push the thumb lever back to its starting spot, the plunger can still be out making the bike run rich with fuel and stop the bike and kill the spark plug.

they may have cleaned the dirt out... but did not clean the "rollers" that live in the front pully. They need to be taken out and cleaned in hot soapy water and maybe a kitchen grean scrubber. they are white colored Nylon coated bits of steal. The out side of the rollers need to be nice and clean (smooth) so that they can go from Hi to Lo eg. (1st gear to 5th gear) so to speak. once the rollers get dirty they dont move as freely as they used to, and end up getting stuck in about 2nd gear and taking off seems like you are very sluggish. while you have the front pully off, clean up everything they looks dusty, dirty, sandy, and put back together. and makeing shore that the belt and pullys are nice and clean. the taking off squark is normal on most LTA, and even more so when the bike is brought to a sudden stop, then a quick take off. the noise is caused by the front pully being at about (3rd gear) and trying to jump back to 1st. it can sound bad but I have not heard of it every breaking anything. so just how deep was the mud!!? also the rollers can get dirty just by long dusty riding, like being behind another ATV on a gravel road in summer. (so try to stay out in front!)

if Aus. we use KM but the normal new LTA700 can do 114 to 116KM (i know this because we have people complain when they have a 114km bike and their freinds have a 116km bike!!!!) what a silly world we live in.

Hello. if your issue is the belt, it is a little bit more than just looking at it. you can measure the width of the belt at the top (widest part of the belt) and tell us how wide it is. then there is the rollers in the front pully. In the pully there is about 8 rollers that are nylon covered steal rollers, they each sit in a grove and it is their job to change the bikes gearing go higher as you go faster! You have to take off the front pully and make shore that the grove where the rollers "roll" from slow speed to high speed is clean and dirt free. Also you will notice that the rolers are (used to be) white, and the outer edge will be dirty and brown/gray. this is impregnated dirt stuck on the rollers. give the rollers a good clean up with a kitchen scourour in the kitchen sink (note, do not let the wife see you do this!) when the rollers get very dirty they get too grippy and have trouble moving in the pully against the retaining plate. the symptons of this is a bike that will feel like it is "stuck in 3rd gear" when taking off (ie sluggish) and somtimes they can be stuck in "4th gear" when they should be in "6th" if you know what I mean with the gearing, because the bike has a million gears being belt driven auto! a normal LTA700 or 750 can take off and do a very nice wheel stand at every take off. But as the rollers get dirty it can get to the point where a LTA700 just cant do a wheel stand any more! if this happens not to be your problem, do for the snorkle restricting the air in to the airbox. other wise, because the bike it a 700 and maybe has a few Miles on it by now, you could have a clogged fuel filter in your fuel pump. I am not saying this because I sell them at my website! I am saying it because the LTA range of bikes have a good pump, and a good fuel filter, but it is a very small fuel filter and is very prone to clogging with what every people put in to the tanks! Normaly people find that a bike with a clogged fuel filter is hard starting and a flat spot above idle, then some top end power loss. maybe you should do a fuel pump flow measurment to see how much is flowing. just ask if you need help to do that (or consault your workshop book)

Hello. I agree with getting rid of the sea foam oil additive. Given that you have got smoke comming out of the motor and burning lots of oil, you are due at a minimum a set of rings and maybe a piston and barel! what was the compression amount? do you remember what it was (also if it was hot or cold) because if you are burning oil, it can normaly only comes from 1 place (the sump) and can only get there from the via 3 ways. 1 pass the oil and compression rings 2 oil blowing out of the engine crank case breather and getting injested by the engine as it breaths air (note: air box will have oil in it everywhere) 3 flowing past the Valve stem seals and running down the Valves in to the combustion chamber. then there is the long shot idea of maybe you have a crack in your piston, or a broken section under the top compression ring (like I found in a Honda TRX400ES last month) and oil was working from under the piston, behind the top compression ring where it then had direct access to the combustion chamber... The bike started great, sounded great, but would not idle! but only blew smoke with high revs. The problem was caused by the compression at Idle was blowing passed the top ring, down in to the crankcase and putting air pressure in to the crankcase, then venting in to the airbox where it was blowing a mist of air and oil on to the air filter (then back in to the motor and stall the motor after about 15 seconds) anyway, it would seem that off fuel may have been your initial problem because it was stored for a month. but then the sea foam has changed the lubrication propertys of your oil and hurt your rings and maybe your barel. If you do chose to pull down the motor and check the piston and rings. Do take out the exhaust vales and clean the valve seats and top side of the exhaust valves, because they will by now be very dirty and not seating properly. it will be no good pulling it down and not having it working properly after some new rings.

it is the flywheel key. it has sheared in half. it can happen... you need to use a rattle gun and removed the nut holding on the flywheel. you will see a sliver of metal that is a diffrent color than the rest of the shaft. push it out with a screwdriver and remove the other half from the groove in the flywheel. you will have to buy another key way, it is cheap. then install the fly wheel as per fitting instructions. some LTZ400 when modyfyed Cam shafts break this very often, and need to have some locktight added to the shafts taper "where it contacts in to the flywheel" and do up a little tighter than standard. I guess that you have fixed it already, since you posted your question in march. But maybe this will help the next guy.

Hi there. What you are describing has been happering to the KingQuad since they came out. yes it could be your fuse/power/motor/full of dirt... But there would normaly be a fault code. I have seen this 3 times on 2x 700s and 1x 450. each time it was the Diff not getting comletely in to 4x4 but the computer did not get the signal... So it is haveing a mental delema! it wants to go in to 4x4 but the relay is already there, so it is thinking that it cant do it. to fix it you have to make either the electric motor turn forward (via phyicaly turning by hand or electricity) to advance the cogs in the dif. and get it in the same place as the computer thinks it is in! the computer knows what it happerning in the dif via the round electric ccontact pad on the left side of the dif. some people have put 12v in to the back of the motor and moved it forward. some people have pulled the entire diff appart and put it all back together again and found it suddenly worked again. my self I unscrewed the round cover plate off the contact pad (left side of diff, 3 screws) to reveal the electric pickups and I shorted the bottom 2 tracts together. making the computer think that the diff "was" in diff lock. then the computer must notice that it is in the worng place and starts to move the it in to dif lock. I still dont know what causes it. some owners never get it, some it could happen 2 or 3 times a year. I used to think that it was caused due the dif being "half way" from 4x4 to 2x4 and while half way the bike gets turned off... so that the computer forgets what it was doing or where it was, and from there can no longer fix its self. I had the oppertunity to talk to the head 2 guys at Suzuki Australia office at the last service school this year, and apparantly Suzuki Japan is not awear of the problem, and is not working on a fix. However there was about 75% of the other mechanics there that knew about the problem and had tryed there own way to fix it. if you dont feel confident doing it your self, take it to the dealer, but make shore that they know what you mean when you tell them the problem. Even if you were to ring around and find a store who has fixed it before. also, if you were to get your hands on the wireing diagram, and look at the diff layout... it will do your head in!!!!!!! it is a very strange thing that they did with the wiring. it is not because they are being overly commplicated to be cruel, rather it is because they wanted the computer to know if motor dies as well as the relay dies so they can give a fault code. so the wires are not as a normal electrical thinking guy would be used to. I do recomend getting a wiring diagram before you give it a go.