Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

goldeneagle

2000 Yamaha warrior 350 boiling gas

Recommended Posts

I have a 2000 warrior thats seems to run fine. But I am having a problem with the gas boiling in the tank. Does anyone else have this problem or can anyone give me suggestions on how to fix this issue? Thanks Bill.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


wow man...can't help ya..never heard of that before, but dang...that can't be good! would like to know a cause once you find out

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try making sure that your gas cap is venting properly. You could also get some adhesive heat shield wrap and apply it to the underside of your tank. Every little bit helps!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

something would have to be getting pretty hot to be boiling.. gas boils from about 200-400F

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


You can also run a cooler plug. your gap could be to wide or your carb is running to lean. you could also put muffler heat wrap. it keeps the heat off the tank. but if you do that then i would run a cooler plug and reset your mixtures as it will put a bit more heat on the head.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, I would look and see if you are missing any heat shields or why the temperature is reaching a point to cause a boil. I think GEARHEAD01 is right, with his solutions.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Make sure you aren't running too lean, lean motors run hotter. You may even want to richen up the a/f mix even if you aren't lean just to help it run a bit cooler. Higher octane fuel also helps an engine run cooler. You also may want to consider running an external oil cooler to help keep motor temps down.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm having the exact same problem with my 2004 Yamaha 350 warrior it was running fine I got off of it with it running to talk to someone and then it just started missing and dying then I got it started and started running it pretty hard and it was fine again got back to my house and just let it sit and idle to see if it would do it again and it started smoking a little bit coming out of the exhaust which is something I've never had and smoke was just rising off the front of the 4-wheeler so then it died again and I open my gas cap to check my gas I knew that I had gas but I wanted to look and see if it was leaking and it was boiling like a son of a gun then I took the seat off I saw gas was squirting out of the overspill on the bottom of the carburetor it really freaked me out

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is the head of the engine painted or the entire engine painted ? A lot of people paint the head or engine trapping in heat which causes a overheating problem. 

Check the exhaust that its clear and not packed with shit causing to much back pressure. 

Lastly is an engine covered in mud or excessive dirt build.   These things add up and cause excessive heat along with a hotter plug and even a high octane fuel cause this condition.  

I would wash the engine down good. If the engine is painted then a pressure wash may be in order.     

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


how do you know its boiling?  lol i saw the title for this thread and was like wtf????  i have a yamaha warrior too and never have issues with gas getting too hot...  i had a clutch smoking issue but that was from junk in between the clutch plates..  if gas boils from 2-400 degrees, than your gas tank would be melted before the gas could start boiling.  I would agree that you have a badly vented tank causing a vacuum inside.  if you take apart your gas cap, theres prolly some junk in there. preventing air from entering or exiting the tank when needed..

but seriously- all the youtubers out there need you to come up with their clickbait..  👍:yes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By amelia slabbert
      Hi I have a YAMAHA RAPTOR 660R 2003
      I have taken of my Air filter and sprayed in my air inlet some carberator cleaner while starting it. That causes some problems. It struggles to start now. Please look at my attachedment video. 
      What can I do now.? 
      MOV_1402.mp4 MOV_1401.mp4
    • By dirtybear00
      Hi guys I am new here. Not new to ATV s. I have a 2000 Yamaha big bear foot shift with no spark Looking for manual to down load any tips on where to find one or links be great thanks from Canada  
    • By Coyote251
      View File 2000 Yamaha Big Bear YFM400 Owners Manual
      This manual contains all information for owners of this vehicle including operational directions, safety and maintenance procedures
      Submitter Coyote251 Submitted 03/22/2018 Category Yamaha ATV  
    • By AFricks88
      It will not turn over with starter and will not fire while pulling pull start.
       
      The only thing that Ive tested that didnt test correct is the kill switch I read on another forum to test black and Black/white wire for continuity when in off position I did and it shows continuity like it should. Then when you slide it to run it should be open and show no continuity which mine still shows it while in the run position. So I unplugged the CDI just for sakes of doing it and the kill switch then tests correct. So where should I test next without unplugging CDI?
    • By Arby911
      I can't for the life of me find the correct service manual for this unit. It's air cooled, not liquid (oil cooler tho) and every manual I find has the wrong front differential diagram (it does NOT have a 2wd/4wd shifter).
      I'd be eternally grateful if someone could point me in the right direction. I can probably slog it out from some of the exploded diagrams I've found, but a good "do this, do NOT do that" manual would be a godsend.
      Regards,
      Ross
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By johnwayne
      i have a 2000 suzuki king quad lt-f300f that i picked up as a project bike. it didnt run well when it was parked outside 5 years ago. it cranked after putting fresh gas - but would not run below half throttle, i took apart the carb, cleaned debris, and re-assembled. i suspect that the pilot needle is sheared off - it never protrudes into the throttle body through the pinhole. now to get the bike to ALMOST idle, the throttle idle adjustment knob is all the way up/in. the pilot needle is turned almost all the way in/up (if i understand correct, it should nominally be out 2 1/4 turns or so). and like i said, it will ALMOST idle. floods easily, rides rough.
      wanted to hear from those more experienced than me with suzukis - and im self-taught atv repair, so dont laugh too hard if my verbiage/part names is way off. 
      facing the driver's side of the bike [US] there are three hoses on this side of the carb. without a service manual or way of knowing what was messed up before i got it, i think i have them right: front hose as a vacuum to the petcock, middle hose as vacuum to the fuel pump, rear hose as fuel line from the fuel pump. running the bike in prime position results in flooding even while riding. with all hoses disconnected from the carb, fuel slowly drips from the vacuum line connected to the petcock.
      so just my speculation is that the diaphragm in the petcock is split, and the pilot needle is broke off - causing my inability to not quite idle and the rough ride. this suzuki is hoses and cables everywhere compared to the honda ranchers and yamaha warriors i am used to. I would like to have a plan rather than: replace everything at once.
      is my speculation on the right track, or could something else be at play? say, if the compression was non-existent, would that cause non-idling? i am all ears, look forward to the input.
    • By skymankila69
      I traded my dirt bike for a 2000 arctic cat 500 semi automatic. when i went to go pick it up the guy said it didn't get spark, so i thought it was going to be something simple like a coil. well it wasn't. first thing i did was take all the plastics off to get easy asses to every thing. so i bought a brand new battery for it seeing if it got power, it didn't. the dash wouldn't light up neither would the lights, so then i tried to see if the starter worked it didn't so i jumped the solenoid and the starter started turning over the motor. so i bought a new starter solenoid, when i installed it the electric start still wouldn't work , so i bought a new kill switch and starter switch that goes on the handle bars, when i installed it, the electric start still wouldn't work. so then i went to see if i could get spark by pull starting it, i didn't get any spark, so i bought a new spark plug, and guess what, still no spark, so then i bought a new coil for it to see if that would fix it. so i installed the new coil and guess what no spark still and still no power to the dash. so to sum it up i'm not getting any power any where to the four wheeler. so i cleaned all the leads and plugs and still nothing. so then yesterday i took the wiring apart to see if their was any frayed wires, and no their wasn't. does any one have any ideas what this could be i'm up for anything. also if any one knows how to bypass all the wiring just to get it to start i open to that to, or if someone knows where  i can get a wiring diagram.
    • By quinnkaeb
      i have recently purchased a yamaha kodiak ultramatic 400cc. it is used and sat outside for a long time. i have done a lot of work on it and got it to run sort of. when i try to start it, it will start and run for a little bit then it will die, the time it runs varies. it has a new cdi, spark plug, and stator. most of the time it wont even start it just cranks over. there was one time that it started up right away and ran perfectly but the next time i tryed it wouldnt start. before that one time every time it started and ran it had a popping sound. i cant figure out why it wont run. any help would be muchly appreciated! thanks!
    • Guest Fox300exchic
      By Guest Fox300exchic
      The Hop-Up: You may be saying to yourself, “that’s a chick bike,” and you’re right. But honestly, it’s so much more than that. It’s one badass bike. http://www.quadmagazine.com/quad/features/article/0,24942,1587044,00.html
    • By dyyjrr9
      I just got a 1991 Yamaha Moto 4 for my son and I am looking for a service repair manual. I know that the timing chain needs replaced.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...