This was the paint job i did in my first bear tracker. My plastics were way beyond repair with cracks etc. Its when i first got back into the whole atv thing. I was really in need of a hunting atv as well so i went with a camo pattern. I also took it upon myself to buy fabric and learn to cover my seats. I always find myself looking back at my old photos on some of my projects i did. Some were cool, some were so so but i was not good at refinishing the plastics until later. As soon as this Suzuki of mine is done i will get back into my side project on a really beat up and old piece of plastic that i picked up from an old bayou. Its just a test piece and im hell bent on bringing back the shine. Im close to a process that will require no paint or clear coat.

So far yes. I'm not sure if doing just the clearcoat would have brought them back or not....

So, I hit the bezel with clear after I outlined the lettering with a silver sharpie. It turned out ok. I thought a d thought about it and decided to paint the plastics because they are so faded that I thought the clear wouldn't do the trick. I'll post more when I'm done.

Ok so new flywheel is in and she fired right up. Huge difference, i can get to just about 80% throttle without any backfiring. The carburetor is still in need of tweaking but i think the problem is solved. Unreal that something like this can happen. What baffles me the most is the magnets on the old flywheel are solidly in place but yet they are incorrectly placed??? I tried to pry them off the flywheel with no luck. So strange! Going to get after the carburetor tomorrow and take it for a spin before i put it all back together. Keep ya posted.....

This is the one i use. It was recommended by a paint rep for a few reasons. Worked great.

Drilled and taped for a new bolt, all good.

I have these

Steven, first thing I would suggest is getting the starting issue done first. you have to get 12vdc to the key switch. That 12vdc comes from the battery to the solenoid. Then through the solenoid usually via a connector through the wiring to the key switch, Then when you turn on the key switch on. it sends that 12 vdc every where else it needs to go. So check the key switch for 12vdc. If you don't have it there go back to the solenoid and check both sides of your fuses. Check you battery ground too. I'm not looking at a wiring diagram for your fourtrax other wise I could give you the wire colors. Bottom line no power to the key switch nothing else will work. Get it to crank first then look at the carb/ fuel issue.

Don't forget the simplest things first. 1997 Fourtrax300FW was running fine, stopped it to split some firewood, wouldn't start back up, plenty of fuel. I pulled the sparkplug, zero spark. I read a couple forums which made it sound like the most common problem for no spark was the CDI. From a YouTube video, I followed the instructions and used the multi meter Ohm meter to check the resistance on the two coil leads and the reading was about 0.8 as expected for a good coil. Ordered a CDI, replaced it, still no spark, but when I was checking it I noticed I was getting a shock holding onto the plug wire. Used a multi meter to check the spark plug (from instructions on YouTube videos) and there was no continuity on the spark plug. Replaced the spark plug, turned the engine over with the plug grounded to the cylinder head, visible spark. Then reinserted the plug, and it started right up. The moral of the story, if you don't have a spark, you may want to check the plug, or replace it first. That was the cheapest option, and it would have saved me the time of pulling the front cargo carrier and plastic off to get to the CDI, and order and pay for the CDI. I hope this helps someone else down the line.