wanrep

Unless it sat in subfreezing temps with straight water in the cooling system, it's doubtful the head is cracked. Worse case, the head might be warped if it really got hot. More than likely you can get by with a new head gasket and I'd definitely get that fan switch working properly. It's all in the factory service manual.

I've had 3 atv's in the shop with the "1 spark" problem. 2 of them were regulator/rectifier. The other was a loose ground cable. To check the ground, I take a pair of jumper cables and attach both clamps on one end to battery neg. and the clamps on the other end to the motor and frame.

Your Yamaha has a limited slip front diff. When they get low on oil, they will tend to growl in a tight turn. I'd drain the oil and refill with a good 80w90 gear oil. The other thing that helps is adding 1 ounce of friction modifier, made specifically for limited slip diffs., to the oil. Some of the gear oils have the friction modifier in the oil already. Royal Purple is one of them. If you can't find one, the auto parts store should sell a 4oz. bottle of friction modifier. The early Honda 4wd's were bad about chattering front diffs. also.

Yep, been there too. Most times it's not enough slack in the throttle cable that causes the problem. The other thing that causes problems with spark is that rev limiter box. You just unplug the black wire to eliminate that.

CanAm lists a Traxter CVT 650 for 2005. The clutches are identical to the Trail Buck. I didn't see a Quest listed for 2005.

2011 with a bad tranny....not surprising. It's a cvt/belt set up. Expect a dealer to charge around $3500 to put a new one in.

Bombardier made the Trail Buck for John Deere. Same as the Traxter 650. Now it'll be listed as a CanAm Traxter 650.

That was a quick 10. You win a manual. lol

59V is the engine code for a 1986 YFM225

If I remember correctly, the driveshaft just slips off the bevel gear shaft. Just have to loosen the clamp on the boot. No need to take anything apart on the bevel gear housing. Just remove it from the engine. It's been a while since I did this so I checked the SM and you don't have to worry about getting into the tranny. The part on the end of the shift drum is accessible when you take the switch off. I'd check that part first before you order any parts. It's possible that the contact pin on that part is stuck. Kaw calls that part reverse stopper.

I checked my wiring diagram for the 220 and you are correct. That switch provides the ground for the starter relay/neutral light AND the reverse light.

I got the switch off Ebay. There's a piece on the end of the shift drum that makes contact with the switch. Make sure it turns when you shift gears. If not, you're really screwed cuz you'll have to get into the transmission to replace it. When you pull the switch out, take a pair of needle nose pliers and short the 2 contacts on the switch and see if the neutral light comes on.

Oh...don't forget to get a bevel gear case gasket when you get your switch. That should be all you need.

It's pretty ignorant for Kaw to put that switch where they did but.... You'll have to unbolt the swingarm and shocks then pull the swingarm back enough to disengage the driveshaft. Then unbolt the bevel gear case. I think there's seven bolts on it. Then you can change the switch. It took me a couple hours the first time.

Does holding the override button in make any difference?

2 1/2 out is a good starting point. It should idle at that setting.

2 things come to mind. 1) check the ETC in the throttle. Make sure there is a gap between the contacts at idle or you can just unplug the wires coming from it. 2) the idle mixture screw or the idle speed screw need adjusting.

Regarding the drain hose...it's also connected to the overflow tube inside the float bowl. If the float valve ever sticks open, the excess fuel will run out on the ground instead of filling up the crankcase with gas. You'll need one of these tools to adjust the idle mixture with it running.

It's not uncommon for case halves to not have a gasket. Your Bayou is one of them. I use Threebond 1184. Just a light coat on one case half then assemble. Make sure both surfaces are cleaned with brake clean before applying. Each manufacturer has their own case sealer also. Yamabond 4 is a good one. Suzuki, Honda & Kaw have theirs too. I'd stay away from silicone sealer although it can be used in a pinch. The mistake guys make is using too much. It gets into oil passages and blocks them.

On the old Suzuki 2-stroke 50cc, they used a restrictor plate/washer between the exhaust pipe and head to slow it down. On the 80, they put a spacer on top of the carb slide so it would only open half way.

Kymco is o.k. I've worked on a few. Not on the level of Honda but definitely not Chinese junk. Confession....I've got 2 little Chinese ATV's that I let the grandkids ride. lol

Speaking from a repair shop's point of view, you can't go wrong with Honda or Yamaha. Polaris is the most popular brand in our area of the country. I see them the most. It seems it's not a question of "if" something will break, it's "when". My least favorite brand, other than Chinese, is Arctic Cat. PITA to work on.

Yep, that's it. I'm 99.9% sure it's an '04 Kodiak 400 4wd engine. You'll need the CDI and voltage reg/rect. for the Kodiak. Maybe a used wiring harness if your connectors or wires are melted. With the 2 wiring diagrams, it shouldn't be too hard to figure out how to get it going again. Good luck.

That CDI unit was used on '03 & '04 Kodiak 400's. There should be an engine number stamped in the side of the right crankcase housing right where the rear driveshaft comes out. What's that number?