Tahj

Good writeup. I'd add that guitar strings are smaller than the torch tip cleaners. There is a video on ultrasonic cleaners that shows me some new tricks.

Thanks Frank I found while starting to pull the buffer/balance drive gear that outer edge of the gear moved out far enough to get the chain by it without dumping all those lovely little springs. I had also removed the tensioner side chain guide. I stuffed the timing chain in, put the balance gear and plate back in place and done. Somewhere I found that that the old camshaft gear compression weights were just pressed in, and swapped them onto my new cam gear.

Do I need to remove the balancer driven gear to remove the timing chain. If so, how? Thanks

06kfx440 Past that now- it did crank with the plug out. I pulled the valve cover. The cam gear is about a quarter turn out of time by the dimples when the timing mark is right on. I have ordered a cam gear and timing chain and am about to go into the stator, rotor and starter gear. New territory for me. Tahj

I am looking to see why my 2005 Grizzly 660 won't crank. I have set the valves but suspect a loose timing chain. When working to remove the valve cover I found a "cap tensioner case" - parts #25 - #299 on Babbitts site. The cover seems to bridge the valve cover and the cylinder head. What the hell is it and what surprises will I find if I remove it? Uncharted territory for me.

Thanks Frank Some engines have cam cover plates, but I think I have to pull the valve cover on this beast. Do you know if that would get into the water jacket? I['d like to avoid that.

I bought a "project" Grizzly 660, I think it has been a few people's project. The PO had it for a while and did not have time to work on it. He said the battery was good, but I don't know how he knew because the display was blank, no lights and won't crank or run. I found a nest under the front cover, by the CVT inlet, a chewed thru wire and a few more without insulation. Rewired those from the connector (black 3 wire to the display) and replaced the fuse as suggested by a search from this site. That got the display working and power to other circuits. I replaced the aftermarket start switch with a used OEM switch from eBay. Then it would crank a little, and started once for a few seconds. I'm a small engine mechanic - mowers, snow blowers, etc. In my small engine work I have had a number of rider mowers that would crank about a half turn and then stop. The owners have suspected a bad battery and changed it with no improvement. Setting the valves to spec usually fixed this. I set the valves on the Grizzly without solving the crank problem. I wonder if the timing chain could be off - slipped a tooth. I don't know any way to check for this without pulling the head and looking at the timing marks on the cam gear. Is there another way to check for proper timing?

I found this item for my 05 Grizzly 660 on Amazon: Guide, Cable 1UY-14155-00-00

I lost the brass throttle cable end I can't find on cable or carb drawings help

I have an 05 Grizzly. The inlet air to the CV drive is under that black cover (full of leaves -mouse nest?) I don't see any cover in any parts lists, but I plan to put a cooking strainer over it in my rebuild.

I agree. I started out with a beater Eton 150, because it was cheap. I'm a mechanic so I enjoyed learning about them (ended up with four that ran and 1 donor). I still run them - they have been dependable if low performance - my wheelchair for the woods. I bought a beater 125 TaoTao to fix for my grandson. Awful. Alternated between intermittant carburetor problems and intrmittant electrical problems. The wiring is poor with bullet connectors the come loose in place. The handle bars with switches and levers attached have to be removed and dangle to remove the front body panel and acess wiring. I ended cutting it off and laccing it back on with zipties. I now have a Honda Recon, that is fun to ride and its a Honda. I'll be looking for a 4x4 Honda for snow and difficult terrain. Tahj

I do small engines - for jets and such pick up a set of guitar wires - cheap and smaller than tip cleaners Tahj

Some Chinese are junk. As a mechanic, I started with a $100 E-Ton 150. after some work, it became a great first machine for me. I'm old and want a trail riding machine with off road (into the woods) ability. The Eton Yukon has a very dependable GY6 engine. Parts are easily available. Electrics are good and repairable if needed - I soaked and shorted a rotor. I found that it got me where I wanted to go, was light enough to lift off a hang-up on a log. It ran dependably for years until it started throwing the chain under load, that I couldn't solve (turned out the right side trailing axle arm fractured - slipped under load and popped right back into place afterwards - couldn't see it past the fat rear tire. After being frustrated solving the problem and no longer trusting it as my wheelchair for the woods, I bought a badly beaten (kids') Recon TRX 250 . They have good reputation and the 2WHD is all I need. I mastered plastic welding repairing all 4 busted fenders. I like it, it has more power, but I liked the CVT on the E-Ton. I modified the toe lift shift lever on the Recon, and will adjust the shift play After I welded the trailing arm on the Eton Yukon and put it back in service I picked up another E-Ton 150, that had broken BOTH rear arms and was loosely in two pieces. Both work well now I had picked up a TaoTao 110 for my grandson that was a complete piece of crap. Lousy wiring connectors that would break rather than disconnect. Constant intermittent electrical and fuel problems (corroding aluminum float needle) , and body plastic that was an absolute pain to remove. It did inspire my son in law to buy him a good Polaris, and then one for himself. My daughter liked my Recon so he bought her a CanAm. Now we all ride.

Quadcarazy - that's a very useful subject - reviewing vendors

Mark S The what???? tahj

Frank No, I took it off to weld, needed to to get to the back side. Yeah,a welding path through, seals, bearings and such is not a good idea. Wished I had a pair of cheap vice grips to use, but all I had were the brand names.

When hunting I carry my rifle in a Kolpin or Flambeau case. My old Kolpin case won't fit any of the current mounts - so I made my own for it. The newer Kolpin case mount for the gun boot IV - the loop bracket, carries way to high to suit me. A simple mod fits my Recon TRX250T, and puts the case down along side the footrest. A piece of bedframe angle iron about a foot long, brings the loop way down

Hi I am old and arthritic, my ATV is my wheelchair for the woods. I was unable to lift the gearshift lever with my left toe so I converted it to a rocker - heel/toe lever - like my old '75 Honda CT 90 K. The pics show the donor Vise Grip jaw welded to an old shift lever ( bought a nice shiny new one just in case) and the bending necessary to bring it back behind the pivot far enough. I cut off the pipe heel lever to match the front one. Works well and there is no weight on the pivot - my foot still rests on the peg for stand-up riding and mounting.

HI I've been using a Harbor Freight motorcycle lift for years doing rider mowers and such. I can get MOST of the tire on the lift as is, Quads are worse. I included my mod - an old 2 x 12 ramp with a cut made for the ramp side ridge and 1 1/2" pipe sections under the deck held on loosely with muffler clamps thru the existing holes in the deck. Not at all original - see Youtube mods. I only used one side wing and a leg to stabilize it. I'm old and cannot work on the ground any more. The Harbor Freight motorcycle lift is on sale for $400 and is worth it. There are a bunch of mods for it on Youtube

Hi I had an Eton 150 - CVT drive. The variator weights let the clutch engage too quickly, before the engine could develop power. By changing the weights the clutch engages later and - no stall. I can't give credit to the source of the information that I found 'case I didn't save it. First things first.doc

Looks like GY6 engine. It should have an engine number on the left side of the engine ans a VIN number somewhere on the front frame. What is the lever on the rear end? I don't see a oil cooler either (E-ton) Tahj

War Prepper What mapping app do you use? Tahj