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Injector swap was easy. Unbolt the rail, pull the old one out and pop the new one in, reinstall the rail. 10minutes. I put a Kawasaki injector in it, but I’d just go with stock if done over. The Kawasaki p/n is 49033-0011, 60$ or so online. The flow rates are similar but the Kawasaki has 12 atomizing holes, stock is 4. The way I ride, I didn’t notice a big difference in performance but some folks claim it’s very noticeable. No experience with any other injector. You can also remove the injector you have and clean it. There are YouTube videos on that if you want but it gets involved and didn’t work well for me. If you’re machine becomes hard to start or stalls out when you come off idle, the injector is likely nearly clogged.

This might sound silly but more than once, I’ve installed the plunger down into a carb and it gets hung up. Since you can’t see it, it could be effectively “wide open” throttle trying to start. The mixture would be way off and it could explain the dry spark plug and no light off even with gas/ starting fluid. Look into the carb, make sure it’s not wide open/ full throttle. FWIW, my other machine a Timberwolf 250 won’t start without choke. Is the choke ON? Hope that helps.

Did the new thermostat make any difference how often the fan was kicking on? For what it’s worth, my machine’s fan was running more than often and became hard to start. Long cranking periods and random stalling. I found the fuel injector nearly clogged. This made the mixture lean and the bike ran hot- fan came on more often. A new injector fixed all those problems. Just something to keep in mind as you get to know your machine.

I don’t like starting fluid to diagnose or make conclusions about an engine. Get the new carb or clean out the one you got and then see what’s happening. I’d only run it with the air filter on, if possible. When cranking it over, feel for air blowing out the exhaust to be sure there’s no mouse nest in the muffler. Also, when spraying the starting fluid, open the throttle wide open to get the mist past the plunger/butter fly valve.

Nate, from Virginia. I have an 07 arctic cat 700efi. I like to ride, but I really enjoy troubleshooting small engines. We putt around our hobby farm for the most part with our bikes. I learned a lot from this site looking for answers to some recent troubles of my own. Glad to be here.

Couple things I’d check. Inspect the plug end of the ECU connector. Clean and dry out with contact cleaner. If you have a bad connection there, try turning it over while holding the ECU in a different position. I was able to get mine to show an intermittent fault this way. Also, be sure the small red wire on the load side of the starter really has a good connection. This tells the ECU when you are cranking. Hope that helps.

BTW, there are a number of fantastic machine shops online offering Nikasil refurb plating and oversized jugs for less than 300$ with core replacement. They ship to you within a week, you ship the core back and get refunded. Great options with these bikes. Use the LT-A700 model, jug is the same.

It’s a Suzuki engine. I have the ArcticCat 700efi 07’ model and cross checked most engine parts to be exactly the same as Suzuki LT-A700 engine from 05-07. Bought most parts from the Suzuki dealer. Just finished my top end rebuild with a Suzuki jug on this 07’ arctic cat. Hope your rebuild goes well.

My machine had corrosion on the pins in the ECU connector, even after cleaning they didn’t make good contact. You may try back pinning at the ECU plug for a signal to spark. I used a single strand of 20wire bent over in the plug to bridge the gap to the ECU pin. Fixed. Be cautious not to break or bend pins.

here are some codes from the manual. Also the wiring diagram because I believe multiple codes at once is telling me power to all 3 sensors is interrupted. See wiring diagram attached. Possibilities include bad fuel relay, chaffing fuel power wire, or what I’ve been dealing with on my quad is corrosion of connectors in the ECU plug.

There’s a spring in the front diff to hold it in 4x4 when the actuator is relaxed (out). If the spring is broke, it will likely stay in 2x4 or jump in and out. Also, check the 4x4 relay under the seat, you can swap it with the one next to it to troubleshoot an intermittent problem there.