Gwbarm

Oil is cheap but smoke is annoying, probably good to go ahead and check it out, if its smoking that much something is definitely wrong. 123 is not that bad compression wise, iv run some with less than that that didn't smoke, probably one of your rings is stuck and might pop back out after running it for a while, but if the ring is broken that's not a good thing to do. Does the smoke get worse or better the longer you run it.

Thats my vision but it hasn't been 20/20 in many years, so for 20/20 maybe a 10 footer.

My thoughts were the fuel might cause an inaccurate compression reading, but maybe not, I would try a new plug and see how quickly it gets black from running it, black can be a combination of oil burning and running rich.

Wik said he had the same problem, maybe its problematic in those transmissions, if that's the case, damage may have happened after it broke.

I really like the Timberwolfe, don't own one but been meaning to pick one up, too many other projects right now, they are light and powerful and easy to maneuver, fun to ride.

Thanks for the info , I will take a look, im always interested in how others restore plastics.

I was thinking that also, being twisted, but its hard to tell, it could be camera distortion.

I Can tell you what I did. Started with badly weather and faded looked like they had been sitting in the weather for years. I dont really have any before photos. I started out by spraying them down with Amour All to try and get some color back. I let it set on there for a couple of days spraying more on a couple of times a day. I wet sanded the panels completely with finer grit as I went 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, and 5000. It was very smooth, couldn't do much about the discoloration from abuse . I polished it using rubbing compound, Meguires swirl remover by hand and it did shine, but I wanted more so then tried machine polish, 3m machine polish compound with a professional polishing machine, didn't work well, too powerful and burned in a couple of places. I was going to try my random orbital polisher, but I count find it . I was fairly happy with what I has achieved, certainly looked a lot better than what I had started with, but after being in the rainy weather for a couple of days the oxidation came back in places, so I decided this wasn't going to work. I think its probably because the area it came back in were little nooks and crannies I didn't get to as well as others. I has some clear engine enamel I decided to try that, so I sanded the whole thing again only up to 2000 grit and went over the whole thing with a paint prep solution. I sprayed with the engine enamel and liked it very much, it gave the beige a little warmer appearance with a good shine. I sprayed it a little dry because I wasn't sure if I wanted a high gloss shine or not, you can definitely get high gloss if you prefer that. There was some discolorations of the plastic where it had been stressed from use, not much you can do about that but paint, I didn't want to paint it. Im not finished yet but I have got it good enough to put back together, I may wetsand the clear coat and polish it smooth and glossy , I haven't decided yet.

Number 6 shift fork is pretty scarred up , looks like its hitting something causing undo stress on the rollers causing it to break and it is #6 roller that's broken. I would inspect everything very closely on assembling the transmission back together.

I would say taking the engine out is what happens as a last resort, after you figure out what's making the noise. Its hard to diagnose where the noise is coming from with the engine out. You say the noise is coming from the right side , that's the clutch side, you might try adjusting the clutch as Mech suggested, or post a video of the noise its making, maybe we can help diagnose what's causing the noise.

That should work, or you could unhook the gas line and put it in cup and drain the carb, those vacuum petcocks can be kind of annoying sometimes, mine are always giving me trouble.

I bought my Suzuki Eiger, it was running poorly, I knew that when I bought it, it had an after market carb on it, I just took it off, and replaced it with another aftermarket, it ran much better, this was in August, ran it some not a lot, went to start it a couple of months ago and it started fine, fired right up, idled fine, but when I started to take off it stumbled bucked and really didn't want to take throttle. Im not blaming it on the Carb just yet, I know it has a bad vacuum petcock, it will run for about a minute in the run position and die, so I have been running it in the prime position and it has been doing OK until now. Just for my own piece of mind I bought a used OEM carb off eBay to rebuild and put on it. Ill see how that works out.

Sounds like quite a bit of money and uncertainty of other operations , probably a good idea to put it on hold, that's the problem with fixing old bikes parts are so expensive which drives up the used parts price, and Ebay hasn't helped that much, people go on eBay to see what their stuff is listed for and base price on that, but it does not always sell at the listed price, in fact the last two items I bought off eBay had a make offer listing, I made an offer of what I thought it was worth and they took it, I won't cheat anybody I will pay what I think its worth based on condition and the amount of mud the seller didn't wash off the item before they listed it, don't mind throwing money at one to fix it if i really like it, if I don't really like it I won't. I will buy something else I really like, especially in your situation , you need it to work right now, no time for messing around.

Shut off the gas, drain the carburetor, or run it till it dies. Then you can check the compression when it warmed up, when checking the compression make sure the throttle is wide open. You are right if its burning oil the plug should be shiny black.

I ordered a few of OEM bolts that I felt were specialty bolts, the ones for the engine case and stator mounting bolts, I will have to say at 4 and 8 per bolt I was not impressed at all, more impressed with my stainless steel amazon bolts, 25 for 10.00 which would have worked fine, the one for the engine case that was broken, the original, was nice stainless, my replacement was black painted, the others were just pot metal. My conclusion is replacement OEM bolts are a big rip off.

The shaft the the foot shifter attaches to coming out of the engine, there is a seal in the engine case right next to the seal is a snap ring that holds the shaft in place. If its there that's good sometimes they pop off, just something to check.

I think the Outlander is a great machine, they have moved up into the top 5 ATVs to own, I have heard of a few problems, I usually don't pay much attention to piddly little things, but some of these problems are major, but are easily fixed. Depending on which engine size, overheating, fuel pump problems, cam chain stretching, and brakes.

There is a snap ring that holds the gearshift shaft in the correct position to keep it from moving, on the outside of the case, you might check to make sure it is still there and the shaft is not moving out of position.

Thanks for sharing that information I have never really looked closely at them, now I will , it sounds like a descent machine. I always rode the rice burners in the 60s nothing more reliable. Harleys and Triumphs were too expensive, and leaked oil everywhere, but I still liked them, nothing like the Harley sound.

Sorry to see that, it was a bad one, I don't see how you turned it back over with 3 broken ribs and colllorbone and punctured lung, the way it went over you lucky you didn't break your neck.

I would think the fuse should have blown before it fried the CDI box that’s what it’s for protection

From what you described it does sound like rings, have you done a compression check, do one without and then add oil to the cylinder and do another one and compare the 2.

Does it do it only at start up after sitting for a while, and then stop, or does it continue smoking, I have a John Deere that does that and its practically new, less than 50 hrs on engine, im not really very impressed with John Deere that its doing that , but it doesnt cause any problems and doesnt use any oil between changes.

I just did that on a 2000 Big Bear, clear coat tan plastics I mean. I have some photos posted under the thread 2000 yamaha big bear no spark mikuni carb install. Im not quite finished yet, but I can tell you how I did it.

You might try what Mech suggested, but the adjustment is on the linkage attached to the foot shifter. the manual tell you the exact freeplay it needs.