Gwbarm

I work on older machines also and always have trouble finding descent plastics, I look on eBay and marketplace.

Thanks for the offer Mech, It sounds like you have a good deal with the wrecker, I think im good, plus shipping over 3 ponds might get quite expensive. I may have exaggerated when I said it was all apart, coil bolts missing, cdi bolts missing, tank bolts, all of the plastics and rack bolts missing. Suspension was all together, engine was all together, but side cover had several missing, but I found them, they were holding the stator in place, replaced them with the pan head screws it was supposed to have. I may find more missing as I continue putting it all back together, but so far they have all been 6mm.

It does sound like. you are not getting power to the switch, you can trace the wire back to its source to find the problem.

Good you had your helmet on. Im bad not to wear a helmet in the woods.

I found another broken bolt on one of the racks as I was fitting everything back together. I worked on it a couple of hours, wasn't budging, like it was welded there. I had to drill this one out and rethread it. On this project I received it all apart, and no bolts to put it back together. Looking at OEM bolts ranging from 4.00 to 8.00 per bolt, I new that wasn't going to happen. I found these stainless steel flange head bolts, and pan head screws on Amazon reasonably priced, I am very impressed with the quality, it is the hardest bolt I have ever tried to cut and heavy. Just wanted to share if anyone is needing bolts orinterested.

When you get the side cover off you can put a wrench on the bolt and rotate the engine that way, there should be an access window where you can see the timing marks to get it to top dead center, I can't recall , but the manual should tell you.

There are a few options here: https://www.powersportsid.com/bombardier-shock-absorbers-struts/

Good you found that , it certainly would have happened, what you did will work perfectly fine, you might look around and see if it came from the factory that way or has been shuffled around from riding, if the latter see if you can get it back in the original position.

You remove the engine side cover that says Automatic Variable Drive Polaris on it and the belt is right there. Im recalling a 99 model yours should be the same.

Great you found that, I have seen that spring get out of place before, not that often , but a carb im working on right now that I got off Ebay had the same problem, spring out of place and the slide wouldn't work correctly.

The primary resistance on coil seems low, and also voltage going to it, but im not looking at a manual.

Same here, when I get one I don't know much about , I drain all the old oil out, no engine flush, add new oil and mix with a little marvel mystery oil, run it for an hour and change it to the oil I plan on running.

Welcome BRP and good luck with your project.

I was going to start it up with my new carb today , and forgot I had mowed up all my non ethanol gas. The station where I get it was across town so I didn't get to do that. So I thought I would work on the plastics some more. The front I had worked on last week, I had wet sanded all the way up to 5000 grit and polished it, looked good, but being out in the weather a few days the oxidation came right back. So I figured that would not work so I sprayed it with clear engine enamel. I liked the look of it it, gave the blah beige a little deeper warmer tone. Did a test fit and its starting to look like a Big Bear again. I sprayed it a little dry I wasn't sure if I wanted a high gloss, I can polish it later if I change my mind. These are the stress spots that were discolored, don't bother me to bad yet, I thought I would try this first, not much I can do for that except paint.

To check the primary coil resistance you connect your meter leads one to one terminal and the other to the other terminal, to check secondary coil resistance you connect from spark plug cap to ground, the manual section posted didn't seem to tell you the values, but from memory primary should be about 1.5 ohms and secondary 6-8M ohms. Not sure where you are getting 142 volts from it should be 12 volts, what color is the wire that connects to the other terminal, B/W to one terminal and __ to the other terminal, repair manual that was posted didn't state that either. Sorry for the confusion maybe I am understanding you wrong.

This is great review that will help many others looking to buy one, thanks for sharing. I understand putting more in them than they are worth I do it every time I fix one, descent parts are so expensive, I look at it with the same regard as you, if im going to do it im going to do it the best I can, because its something I want to use and I want it right.

I have the same trouble with my Yamaha, and Suzuki, they don't seem to offer OEM carb kits or Gasket sets you have to buy them individually.I Know that Suzuki and Arctic Cat shared the same 400 engine, not sure about the 250. Might be something to look into.

Good job Mech, you spend so much time helping us all out, I appreciate all of your efforts. Just wanted to express my gratitude.

Like you iv never had much luck at welding mufflers, I usually patch it with something like Rock Hard Muffler repair or something similar, while I look for a replacement, it will last a couple of years.

Always enjoy reading these articles, Thanks for sharing.

Seems strange that coil and CDI would go out at the same time, I might look for a short, that might have taken them out, as Mech suggested.

Just did a quick search there is only one for sale in my area at $3750, I would do it , but I like bringing things back. I use Rockymountain ATV along with partzilla whoever has the best price.

I run OEM also , not really that much more, plus it gives me piece of mind. Oil seems to be more specific for certain machines than it used to be.

OEM parts are so expensive its getting more difficult to keep the old ones running, except for certain things, I order mostly OEM from Rocky Mountain ATV, gaskets have been cheaper than amazon, also I had a air box cover missing it was also cheaper there than amazon or eBay. So you really have to look around and be patient.

Well it turns out that the broken bolt was in an insert into the frame. It broke loose as I was trying to get the bolt out. I tried to get a new one but yamaha doesnt even list it as a part. So I went to Ace hardware thinking they may have something to replace it, nothing metal just some plastic inserts. I ended up using a license plate mounting insert, it fit the hole perfectly. I would like to replace it with what was there, but I think this will work. Got the rear fender mounted now, and all the electronics routed to their correct place.