Quantcast
Jump to content


1990 Suzuki LT 4wd need help running issue


joseph

Recommended Posts

thanks for advice but i have checked fuel flow even hooked up another tank so it would feed carb by gravity,also i bought a after market carb it does same thing iam not driving the atv its just sitting there in neutarl is there any thing electrical that could cause this? i sure appreceate the help i tried going to the suzuki forum site but after joining couldnt figure out how to ask a question cant even log in anymore its crazy how complicated that site is so i hope you guys can help me i have cleaned tank new fuel shut off new fuel lines new vacume line to fuel pump new coil new spark plug new plug wire new coil rebuilt carb set float

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your spark may be breaking down as the RPM’S come up.  This happened with my Polaris which had a rev limiter on it also.  

So @06kfx440 may have a point.

I was pointed in the direction of a faulty rev limiter on one of my bikes through the forum here. 

I purchased this spark tester and put it in line with the spark plug. Started and watched the spark break down/fail as I reved the bike.  I removed the rev limiter and my problem was solved.   Worth a shot and cheap enough to try. It’s also a good tool to have.  

Having ruled out the fuel system it may be time to start looking in the ignition system.  

Rev limiter

bad pick up coil 

stator coil problem

regulator

cdi box  

4 of the 5 above listed parts can be tested and the repair manual will explain as far as how and what numbers should be shown on the tester during this process. 

I attached  a pic of the spark tester. 

 

F5844F48-ACEF-4CD9-A89D-679349639777.jpeg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/2/2018 at 3:33 PM, joseph said:

my atv will start right up will idle fine soon as i try to throttle up engine dies,i have changed gas,new fuel pump and lines great compression 188 lbs.new coil new spark plug adjusted valves dont know what to do also rebuilt carb,any help wanted

Is that the compression reading before or after adjusting valve  just wondering 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Ajmboy changed the title to 1990 Suzuki LT 4wd need help running issue

Check the charging system. Sounds crazy I know but every now and then I get a machine that nobody can seem to fix. An over charge condition from the charging system will cause the CDI to shut down. At idle the machine may be showing 14-15 volts at the battery. As soon as you touch the gas the voltage shoots up (due to higher alternator rpm) and the Ignition system quits. The charging system should charge no more than 14.5v at 2500rpm or so. I usually do this as pre check before I actually start working on a machine. Sounds like you did everything else.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can tell you what the problem is Guaranteed!. So please attempt to try my option out . 

Every single Suzuki I have ever owned has done the exact same thing . Suzuki are cold hearted women . PERIOD. 

So what you do is start it with the choke on . Leave the choke on for a while. After about 5 or 10 minutes , the engine will start to Rev and Rev and Rev until it's almost redlining. Then and only then take or turn your choke off . If it's a lever that you pull up , you may have to lightly tap it down a hair at a time . Like tap , revs lower but stays running , tap again , lowers Rev  etc. Until it's off and it stays running and idles with no choke or throttle . Then you can take off , shifting and giving it throttle . If the doing the steps does not allow it to idle on its own , adjust your idle screw so it does. Suzuki carbs are ULTRA ULTRA sensitive with this adjustment , so it may not run with a quarter turn left or right , but it will at an Eighth of a turn . So don't give up , it just takes a while , but once you get that idle screw perfect, Don't ever touch it again EVER. Then you only have to deal with the choke. This is the way all Suzukis are engineered to work . Trust me . Although every post on here has good intentions , I guarantee you success . Good luck my brother.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks i will try that the thing is it never did that before since i bought it i rebuilt the carb at least 5 or 6 times finally bought a different new carb from a place that could get a aftermarket one it ran great for a year and a half  then it would start this i would work the throttle it would straghten out but now it wont . the one thing i noticed was that neddle with the groves is a 1[8 in longer then in a kit ive even tried different kits all have the shorter needle  iam 79 was a heavy equipment mechanic many years figured i could fix about anything but not this ILL TRY WHAT YOU SAID AND THANKS

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Kent Mettler said:

Check the charging system. Sounds crazy I know but every now and then I get a machine that nobody can seem to fix. An over charge condition from the charging system will cause the CDI to shut down. At idle the machine may be showing 14-15 volts at the battery. As soon as you touch the gas the voltage shoots up (due to higher alternator rpm) and the Ignition system quits. The charging system should charge no more than 14.5v at 2500rpm or so. I usually do this as pre check before I actually start working on a machine. Sounds like you did everything else.

this is actually very useful thanks for the information! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, joseph said:

thanks i will try that the thing is it never did that before since i bought it i rebuilt the carb at least 5 or 6 times finally bought a different new carb from a place that could get a aftermarket one it ran great for a year and a half  then it would start this i would work the throttle it would straghten out but now it wont . the one thing i noticed was that neddle with the groves is a 1[8 in longer then in a kit ive even tried different kits all have the shorter needle  iam 79 was a heavy equipment mechanic many years figured i could fix about anything but not this ILL TRY WHAT YOU SAID AND THANKS

Don't worry brother , youre doing just fine ...well get it running ....

Are you saying that the Current needle on the bike is Longer than normal ? If that is the case , I would ask if you NEED to ,meaning every cold start ,   start the bike with or without the choke currently?  If you don't use the choke and it starts  and idles , then dies when throttle is applied , then we need to get it to NEED the choke on cold starts. Once you reply ; we can go through dropping or raising the needle in tandem with your idle and/or air/fuel screw . 

Just Fyi , Suzuki chokes are not chokes but Enriching  circuits be it air or fuel. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

right now and for a year and half the aftermarket carb was and is on machine,,i do need to chock it to start it starts right up i let it run a few minutes try to rev up it quits if i dont rev it up it probabley idle all day i cant rev it up to check voltage it quites a inline spark checker shows spark i do have a new reglator have to take front fender off to change before this happened i would run it a couple times a week for maybe 5 houres mostly to bring out wood it has a xtra low independent suppension front and back did great on this land i have

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try adding a little choke when you try to rev it up. If it rev's up its fuel starved. The bottom air fuel adjustment is very very touchy.

If you rebuild the carb. use a very small wire or get a welders tip cleaner to check all passages after you blow low pressure air backwards through the passages, spraying a carb cleaner through these ports backwards is also good, be careful not to get any cleaner in your eyes. Backwards means from the carb center back in to the fuel bowl or air inlet areas. Anything in the passage will be blown out and not inwards.

Also try clamping off all the lines going to the carb one at a time. Found mine had been getting a little extra fuel via the vacuum port on the fuel pet cock.  Have also seen a cracked vac line that stayed closed at idle and would open up when more vac was applied (motor rev up a little).

Make sure all your lines going to the carb are in the correct location. Had some line change out and it either didn't run right or not at all. I've taken all the lines off more than one and started from scratch and fixed the problem.

One last thing is most Japanese products don't play well with champion spark plugs. I personally used NGK or Nepondenso plugs. I have had a bunch of problems clear up by just changing the plug out. Even in cars,  Had perfectly good running motor, changed plug/s and ran real bad, put the old plug back in, ran fine. put a new Ngk plug in ran fine, new champ and turd city.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i want to thank every one for there advice i tried all if i hadnt did that before a member shane meguffie was right on checking voltage it was 17 i put on new one 14.4 volts ran ok except carb needs proper adjusting and i will be glad to take all advice you guys sure helped me out. i never could take to a dealer because of cost suzuki  atv parts ar  way over  priced i ran into that on a wheel cyl. suzuki wanted about %50.00 a suzuki truck same wheel cyl. %10.00 at amazon,and the area i live in the dealers are aragent

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Gwbarm
      I generally use Non Ethynol fuel in all my small engines. I just got back from the gas station and that fuel has really increased in price since last year, I will continue to use it, even though its north of 1.00 a gallon more. That seems minor compared to cleaning and repairing carbs every year. 
      I was just curious as to what others are doing in regard to gas in their quads, i know a lot of the newer ones are fuel injected which shouldnt pose a problem, but i have had lots of problems with rust and jell forming in carbs when using ethynol fuel.
    • By 1998Zuki250
      Looking to see if anyone has any input on ATV Tires? 1998 Suzuki quadrunner LTF250
    • By Otter9099
      I plan on using my ATV to hunt. What have you found to be the best method for carrying your rifle that is secure and allows removing quickly to pursue an animal?
    • By bighoss
      i got my son new outlaw 50 a few weeks ago and we went rideing yesterday and while we were riding it died and it took me like 10 min to get started back and it died agen when we got close to truck so i pulled it back took the plug out it looked like it was drop in a bucket of gas took the air filter out and the ait box was full of gas also got home it started rite up today i started it it starter up but was blowing what look like water out of the exholst let it idel for a lil bit did not die but as soon as hit the gas and let off it will die what does that sound like i thnk i going to take it back to dealer and tell them to fix it as it is under warrenty but would like to know what it could be first
    • By Mhatayas
      My uncle bought a Baja 250, 2006. Knew there was no spark since the get go. He don't know anything about quads so is getting me to help him try to get it running...
       
      battery is bad so I connected battery charger to it to crank it over , cranks over well , but no spark .... 
      Lights and everything work fine , but with each crank over using the e start switch , the display reads 999 888 777 666 ... Right down to 000 and repeats itself . 
       
      He managed to get a parts bike , I changed over the CDI and the coil and the stator from the parts bike and there was another black box by the voltage regulator I changed over ... I used my multimeter to confirm as much as I could works , it's hard without knowing which wires are which , and I cannot find any diagrams online for this bike ? 
       
      Do you think it could be the Killswitch? There's so many wires coming from there I don't know where to start . Also I should mention it appears the fan on the front of the bike has been taken off (the wires have been cut too ) 
       
      If this bike sparked it would run . The previous owner said he parked it one day and it just wouldn't start after.
×
×
  • Create New...