1997 Kawasaki Bayou 300 2x4 (klf300b) Runs Bad

[Frank Angerano]

Should be about 170 lbs if I’m not mistaken.  

[JacobSlabach]

well that would explain a lot 🤢🤮🤣

[Frank Angerano]

Your compression gauge should have had a red zone and a green zone.  Where did the needle end up ? And how long did you crank etc? 

[JacobSlabach]

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this is what it looks like.  I cranked it till the needle stopped moving.  It stopped at 60psi

[Frank Angerano]

Can’t see the pic.   

When doing a compression test you have to crank for about 5 to 8 seconds to get an accurate reading. 

 

[JacobSlabach]

I was pull starting it- I turned the engine over around 5-7 times for each reading.  

[Frank Angerano]

And it never got past 60 psi ? 

So that’s a bit of a problem.  It was prob ran hard.   I would think a new set of valve seals, piston and rings are required to bring that compression back to where it belongs. 

So try one more thing.  Spray some windex around the head gasket areas and around the top part of the engine and crank it. See if bubbles show up if so the head gasket may be leaking.

Some time people beat the crap out of the bikes and kill the piston and rings.  

I guess at this point you have to make a decision on how much you want to spend time wise and money wise.  Is the bike completely in tact and worth fixing etc.  

It’s a good experience to learn on but that’s up to you. 

Me I would do it because the bike will run forever after that. But it also has to be a compete bike not bastardized!  

 

 

If the bike is all together and all parts are there I would go for it if you have a few extra bucks to do it and some knowledge of motors.   

[JacobSlabach]

Yes.  I'm gonna keep this bike and fix it I think.  I got the stock carb that u suggested and the top end seals.  I will order a piston, rings and a cylinder ($140 so not tooo bad ig)  I want it to run and dont care about the time put into it.  What tools should I get?  

[Frank Angerano]

Good socket set metric with a swivel joint, Allen keys, open end wrench set, rubber mallet, razor blade and holder the kind that scrapes, feeler gauges for valves. 

I like a wire wheel that goes in a drill to help clean up parts. I use a soft bristle wire wheel.

A few small bins for all the parts and painters tape and sharpie to mark what’s what.  

Also a piece of tie wire to hold the timing chain from falling into the engine.

gasket adhesive, latex gloves and some fresh oil.   

Take a few pics before for reference when reassembling. 

 

 

[JacobSlabach]

Thanks!  Should I get a piston ring compression tool too?

[Frank Angerano]

You can.  I don’t don’t use one only bc I have done it so many times.  If your not fimillar then maybe so.   It’s just a matter of squeezing the rings as they slide into the cylinder head.  The bottom of the cylinder head is tapered for the rings to slide in. 

There is a tool that goes on the drill that hones the cylinder. Just to clean it up. Maybe take a look at that.  

Spray the exhaust bolts now with penetration oil so they have time to soak.  

Just be patient with the work. Don’t push to hard.  Things break and you can get frustrated and drink a lot of beer. 

Oh and music helps too! 

[JacobSlabach]

btw, here is the diagram of the carb form kawasaki.com.  I still dont see where the needle is adjustable...?

https://www.kawasaki.com/Parts/PartsDiagram/18411/1997/KLF300-B10

[Maggie Hall]

I bet your having a Vacuum line issue too 

[JacobSlabach]

Which is...?

[JacobSlabach]

ok so this thing has me confused now:  I was out riding a couple days ago and I turned it off briefly to do something and when I tried to start it again, it would turn over fine, but wouldn't fire at all.  I assumed that it blew a sp since it had done it before-  new sp in it and no difference.  I just checked compression agian and it is reading 80psi since it stopped running..     It was 60psi when it was running

I assume I just go ahead with the plan of replacing the top end seals, piston, rings, and cylinder?

[Frank Angerano]

So yes I would proceed with the top end work. There is def something going on as well as low compression.

As for the needle in the carb. The blown up detail may not show the clip adjustment.  Pull the vacuum slide out and the needle.  There should be an “E” clip and a few grooves. 

 

[Frank Angerano]

Sorry for the brief post I was at work. The needle is located in the slide.  Pull the small V shaped clip that holds the needle inside the rubber/plastic slide The needle will come out when you turn it upside down.   

That needle should have a round e clip and small grooves as well.   It’s self explanatory at that point.  Just need to figure out where to set it and remember where it was before you pull the clip off.  

Let me know if you see that.  

As for the top end the symptoms you are having what sounds like the typical dead top end problems.  

This is caused by either beating the sh** out of the bike by over reving or pushing the bike to hard in the wrong gear. For instance going up a hill in a higher gearing.  Over time these things will hurt the engine. That’s my guess as to what’s going on. 

Have you ordered the parts ? 

 

[Phil]

I might be wrong, but  when testing compression aren't you suppose to have the throttle wide open?

I do that when testing compression.

[Frank Angerano]

I’ve tested both ways and got the same readings. Not sure why it’s said that it makes a difference.  But I’ve done it all my life with the throttle open or closed. No difference in the reading.  

[JacobSlabach]

I have ordered them and some have come, some haven't yet...  I have the oem carb in so I'll start rebuilding that soon.  Right now I'm waiting on another project in my shop to start on the bayou.  As to the compression testing, I have never heard anything about where the throttle is supposed to be.  The directions that came with the test kit didn't mention throttle at all.

16 hours ago, Maggie Hall said:

I bet your having a Vacuum line issue too 

Explanation??

[Frank Angerano]

A few ppl posted compression test videos on YouTube saying to open the throttle. It should make no difference.  Ok brother when you are ready to tear into that thing we are here! 

[JacobSlabach]

Another question just for general knowledge:  Does it ever matter what temperature it is when you're working on an engine?  (my shop is not heated)  

[Frank Angerano]

Other then the additional pain when you smash your knuckles with wrenches 🤬I would say no!  Maybe when it comes to any silicones or gasket adhesives.... they recommend temps above 50 deg to use but I would think you are good to go! 

Maybe a small heater, they have plug in type and the small desiel salamander type. 

Sh** maybe a small pellet stove would be cool ! 

[JacobSlabach]

lol  Yea my shop aint that big (its 8x17)..  I would defiantly try to find warmer days to work on it, but I was just wondering if there's a limit.  Thanks!

[JacobSlabach]

alright, I'm tearing into it today... any tips?

[Frank Angerano]

Take pics for reference, label things, fresh razor blades and stay calm !!

[JacobSlabach]

alrighty!  I was mainly concerned about the valves..?  should I take them out or leave them?

[JacobSlabach]

how do i get the chain lose so I can take the head off?  I already took the tensioner out.  Do I take the cam sprocket off?

[JacobSlabach]

nvm I got everything off (head and cylinder)  The cylinder looked like it was in perfect condition (absolutely no scratching anywhere).  The top of the piston was covered in black, crusty, loose soot and likewise in the head and around the valves.  What should I do next?

[Frank Angerano]

You should not need it. Just line the rings up and squeeze them as you slide the cylinder head down into the sleeve.