Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

JacobSlabach

1997 Kawasaki Bayou 300 2x4 (klf300b) Runs Bad

Recommended Posts

Hey I have a 97 bayou 300 2x4 (klf300b) that i bought for 1000 last June and sunk another 1000 into it already.  When i went to look at it, the seller had warmed it up before hand (he was riding it when I got there).  it ran good so i bought it and took it home that evening... next morning it wouldn't hardly start.  I discovered the carb was clogged, there was chunks of rust in the fuel valve, the choke lever was missing and other things.  I have since cleaned the carb and replaced the fuel valve and gas lines and cleaned out the gas tank and cap.  

Enough background on it, the problem is this:  It floods if i push it past half throttle in 4th and 5th gear even going downhill and shifting correctly.  It also has to idle and warm up when you first start it which is really annoying now that its cold...  It also smokes blue smoke for about 15 seconds when started cold-  does not smoke at all once warm but the exhaust still smells like burnt metal.  A friend told me that it didn't have enough compression.  I also found out that the valves are a common cause for low compression on Kawasakis..  I have never adjusted valves before-  the most I've ever got into a engine was a head gasket on a riding mower so I'm new to this.  My goal is to get this bike running and starting cold like a top-  should i tear down and rebuild the top end?  What should i try first?  I tore the carb apart and rebuilt it and fiddled with the air screw and nothing changed.  I also ordered a compression test kit that should be coming in soon.

Picture1110182149952.jpg

Ive also considered just selling it for like $500 and taking the hit-  Id rather not sink too much more into this machine..  lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Well. Blue smoke is burning oil. Could be bad seals. Flooding is a float issue adjust to spec.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome to Quadcrazy! Nice looking bike.  I’m not sure how mechanically inclined you are but if so then I would keep the bike!   My guess is since you see blue smoke it’s most likely bad valve seals if the smoke goes away after it’s been running.  It’s a valve seal kit you can buy and install. If your not familiar then we can help as well as you tube.  If the blue smoke is constant then maybe a piston and rings may be in order.  

As far as the carb goes and if someone had tinkered with it before then my guess is the needle on the carburetor is set wrong. This can be adjusted very easily by following the throttle cable down to the carburetor and unscrewing the slide from the carburetor and making the adjustment on the needle.  

Its a clip on the main needle in the carburetor  Go to YouTube and you will see how this is done.  As well as Quadcrazy helping you along.  Looks like a good bike  but don’t feel obligated as I have a live for old bikes  especially since yours is in such good shape  

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, 06kfx440 said:

Well. Blue smoke is burning oil. Could be bad seals. Flooding is a float issue adjust to spec.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

I have cleaned and inspected the carb thoroughly three times now-  the float is not sticking or anything, and its not adjustable to my knowledge.. correct me if im wrong tho.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You are not wrong just not aware. I have attached a pic for you to see.  This is an adjustment to the needle hight inside the carb.  To high the carb will result in too much fuel being delivered.  So take a look and see. Maybe a long shot but def worth looking into. Put the clip at the second to last high spot on the needle and try that. Most common spot is in the middle or second to top. Also Manley sure all the meats are clean.  After that I would go with a fresh plug and check the spark. Just to be sure it’s a good clean spark. 

https://youtu.be/7lnURLsBIHg

6A8C6CB9-8110-4906-BBB8-9E9B86DE6E99.jpeg

Sorry make sure all jeys are clean . ***

Jets* dam spell check! 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


11 hours ago, Frank Angerano said:

Welcome to Quadcrazy! Nice looking bike.  I’m not sure how mechanically inclined you are but if so then I would keep the bike!   My guess is since you see blue smoke it’s most likely bad valve seals if the smoke goes away after it’s been running.  It’s a valve seal kit you can buy and install. If your not familiar then we can help as well as you tube.  If the blue smoke is constant then maybe a piston and rings may be in order.  

As far as the carb goes and if someone had tinkered with it before then my guess is the needle on the carburetor is set wrong. This can be adjusted very easily by following the throttle cable down to the carburetor and unscrewing the slide from the carburetor and making the adjustment on the needle.  

Its a clip on the main needle in the carburetor  Go to YouTube and you will see how this is done.  As well as Quadcrazy helping you along.  Looks like a good bike  but don’t feel obligated as I have a live for old bikes  especially since yours is in such good shape  

 

 

 

Can you send a link to amizon or ebay for the valve kit?  I'd rather not get the wrong parts..  

9 hours ago, Frank Angerano said:

You are not wrong just not aware. I have attached a pic for you to see.  This is an adjustment to the needle hight inside the carb.  To high the carb will result in too much fuel being delivered.  So take a look and see. Maybe a long shot but def worth looking into. Put the clip at the second to last high spot on the needle and try that. Most common spot is in the middle or second to top. Also Manley sure all the meats are clean.  After that I would go with a fresh plug and check the spark. Just to be sure it’s a good clean spark. 

https://youtu.be/7lnURLsBIHgimageproxy.php?img=&key=01ee6617cc17ea3cimageproxy.php?img=&key=01ee6617cc17ea3c

6A8C6CB9-8110-4906-BBB8-9E9B86DE6E99.jpeg

Sorry make sure all jeys are clean . ***

Jets* dam spell check! 

All the jets are clean- I removed everything I could and cleaned everything with carb cleaner.  I will get another sp soon to make sure that works.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Athena (P400250600300) Top End Gasket Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PLS6ZXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_77R6BbVRTF3VG

 

Carb cleaner is great but sometime you have to run a small wire through the jets to be sure they are clear.   I also like to blow air through the jets to be sure they are clear.  

I like to use  a piece of wire from a bicycle brake cable, one strand of that.  There are also small brush kits for cleaning carburetors on amazon as well.   

 

47665982-9BA6-47F5-B6D6-A994D0A4C3D7.jpeg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

* Topic moved to Kawasaki ATV forum and added ATV info and issue to topic title. 😀

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, that's a lot better price than the rebuild kit I looking at for $140.  Thanks.

So, I will check the compression, replace the sp, and get this kit for the valves.  I will attach a picture of my carb-  It doesn't look like the one the YouTube vid..maybe the former owner put in the wrong carb?  I dunno..

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It’s very possible it’s a cheap aftermarket carb.  Is there a name on the carb ? A pic would be great.   

Also keep in mind that you will need a valve spring removal tool to take out the seals.  

Its cheap enough but not a tool we all use that often thank god ! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


It’s posable that it’s an aftermarket but I can’t be 100%. But by the looks I would say yes. Hears my issue with the aftermarket if it is one.  I’ve purchased one before and put it on my Polaris 90. Bike fired right up and ran good for the first 3/4 throttle. After that it was a hot mess.  So I picked up a used factory carb and rebuilt it and put it in the bike.  It ran great.  I took the cheaper one apart to see what was going on and found nothing!!!!  I put it back on the bike to see how it performed and the same thing.  Go figure.  Not quite sure what’s what but it was def someplace in that carb causing a problem. Maybe the casting when made but not sure.  I am a big fan of oem replacements. Just the way it is. I would try to locate a used factory carb, rebuild  and put that on so you can put that end to rest.  As far as valve seals....  that should stop the burn off you are getting once replaced. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will try to find a used stock carb.  Also my compression test kit hasn't come in yet but when it does, I'll give you guys an update of what the compression's running.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Loop the carb and all the used/new carbs look exactly like my current carb.  And all of them are at least $75.  Should I just eat this or what?  There doesnt look to be ANY difference between the oem carb, the stock used carbs, and my carb.😰

If Im gonna have to pay that much for a carb, I'm probably gonna try that valve seal kit first:     https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PLS6ZXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_77R6BbVRTF3VG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s the thing with the cheap aftermarket carbs. They look identical and appear to be spot on. I’m not saying not to go ahead and try it but I’ve just had no luck with them.  I like using the oem carbs.   

Def curious of the compression reading when you take it. 

Keep us posted.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've used the knock off brands that looked oem and they were junk. For the extra money for oem. You can't go wrong.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Gsk1500
      The clutch cover goes on and fits, but the little L chapped arm that has gear slots is concerning me.  It appears it goes to wear the clutch adjust bolts are on the cover. 
      Is there a specific way to tell how it mounts on the gears in relationship with the basket?
      I don't want to deal it up unless it's right 
    • By Michael Kastanis
      Hey I have a Kawasaki 300 boyu and it die in 5 gear and can’t get in Neutral try rocking it and moved it back and forth but nothing can same one here help me pls
    • By Bryson Bailey
      Hey I have a Kawasaki buyou I put a new carburetor on it and a brand new spark plug coil and still firing up could you know what my problem is anyone please
    • By 1911Neil
      I had a quad fall in my lap a couple weeks ago. The only things I knew about it was it was a Kawasaki Bayou 220, was in pretty rough shape and was free. I couldn't say no to a fun little project. I've been looking a different ATV forums gathering quite a bit of info and decided this was the one I wanted to join.
      Thanks to this forum, I found the VIN under about an inch of mud and cross referenced it to be a '98. It had been sitting outside for at least 5 years and was told it ran when parked, but had no brakes. Squirrels or mice had been chewing on the handlebar controls and it's generally just kind of beat up.
      So far, I've gone through the carb (not near as bad as I expected), freed up the brakes (will probably need new cables), replaced the spark plug, air filter, petcock and put a new battery in it.
      The gas tank had been empty and looked clean so I put some fresh gas in it and tried to crank it today. I got a neutral light, but the starter button did nothing. I tried pull-starting it and it wouldn't fire. I checked the plug and wasn't getting a spark. I started digging and found some potential issues and some definite problems.
      I have a wiring diagram I found on here but it's just a picture or scan out of a book and hard to read. I don't see a reference to a black/yellow wire, which is my first problem.
      First, it that a factory crimp? One of those wired looks like it goes to the connector in the 2nd pic. Is that just a spade lug type connector? I pulled on it with some needle nose pliers but it didn't seem to want to come off. In the 3rd pic, should there be a fourth wire?
      I've read through and bookmarked the threads Andrew Baker and Arizona have going but I figured I needed to start with these obvious issues first. I have lots of pictures, so if there is something else you want to see, just ask. If I don't already have a pic, I'll take one.
       



  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...