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Friday evening went riding, rode for a good hour or so everything was fine. I went to take a short ride to the restroom (less than 100 yds away) and all of the sudden everything flickered and then just died out. Accompanying the problem I noticed the killswitch completely locked up. Once daylight hit took the killswitch apart to find it had shorted out and melted the plastic inside. Has anyone else had anything similar to this and if so what did you do to fix the situation? I have a new killswitch on the way to replace the obvious problem but was wondering could there be a bigger issue at hand. We tested with a voltage meter to make sure everything was still getting power from the battery and as far as we could tell it was.
Any advice/info would be GREATLY appreciated.
I recently purchased the subject UTV for my kids. It's my first Polaris (other wheeler is a Teryx4) - and my first-ever single-cylinder vehicle (even my mower has more)...
Valve lash adjustment values... The operating manual recommends verifying at specific intervals, but does not provide the clearances or procedure. Any idea where I can obtain those? Tach on the display shows about 1500RPM when at idle, and about 6000 when WOT at max speed (30MPH). Does that seem correct? The engine does not SOUND like it's going that fast, but that may just be my unfamiliarity with single-cylinder engines. The idle feels mildly rough - and the tach shows a fluctuation of about 50 rpm. It's not wild, but it is noticeable. Again, without any point of reference, I do not know if that's just the nature of the beast, or if I should be concerned. The front wheels spin freely in the forward direction (mild brake noise can be heard), but when rotating tires backwards, the brake pads grab the rotor with significant force - making it nearly impossible to turn the rotor by hand. Considering the cost of new rotors and calipers, I'm hoping there is a know 'fix' for this issue. Any help would be appreciated! My kids can't wait for me to give it the "all clear". Still waiting on helmets to arrive from Amazon, so I have a couple of days to get all the maintenance and repairs completed.
Had a spark-plug break off, had to pull the head to get it extracted. Where the heck is the timing mark on the crank? Do I need to pull the stator or flywheel to find it? When I pulled the head I had the mark on the cam lined up pretty good but I cant remember if it was perfect and don't want to reassemble a tooth off and have to go back through the bear of pulling this thing back apart.
I bought a 2018 Rubicon with IRS, DCT, power steering, low range and deluxe package. I thought I would pass on my observations for others thinking of buying.
I could have bought a new one for not much more money, but since they quit putting low range in Rubicons I bought a used one. I wanted a foot shift, but couldn't find one with low range so I bought this one.
Power steering: This is the first EPS quad I ever rode. I'm an old school keep it simple kind of guy, but I love EPS. When I first rode this thing, I was amazed at the tight turning radius, Then it dawned on me that it only seems tighter because with EPS I make better use of the steering. Yes yes yes.
DCT automatic shift. I like it, but I would still rather have foot shift. Not only because of simplicity and reliability, but because with foot shift manual transmissions I know the exact moment it will engage, no surprise lunge. If you ask me, DCT is a waste of money. I think they sell 8 times as many DCT as foot shift because they make 8 times as many, not because of demand. I like to ride one handed, I find I don't get tired as fast. Otherwise I would keep it in ES mode. I like to do my own shifting.
Engine. I love the water cooled engine, so much quieter and I expect it to last much longer than an air cooled one. The fuel injection is wonderful and the gas mileage was a pleasant surprise. I don't buy into the "longitudinally mounted" sales talk. Horsepower is not lost by gears and shafts changing direction, it is lost by friction and slippage. This engine is mounted way too high, forcing them to make the seat much higher than it should be. I don't like the resulting high center of gravity. A cylinder at a 45 degree angle under the gas tank instead of the seat is a better design. Power and smoothness is more than adequate.
Suspension. I have the shocks all adjusted to the softest setting and wish the springs were a little weaker. Otherwise I like the IRS.
Ride quality/rider fatigue: This is the main reason I bought a Rubicon. I'm old. I love my Kingquad 300's but I hurt all over after 50 miles. I had High expectations of the Rubicon. The foam in the seat seems to be of very high quality and absorbs bumps well. There is one major flaw in the design of the Rubicon that impacts the ride quality....they mounted the handlebars much too far away from the seat. About 5 inches too far. I find myself riding with my bottom on the front third of the seat and even then wishing I didn't have to reach so far for the grips. Now I'm 5'11" so about average size rider. A short guy would be riding this thing all hunkered over like a kid on a crotch rocket bike with his neck kinked and peeking thru his eyebrows to see where he's going. That kind of riding has it's place, but not on a utility quad designed and marketed for ride quality. Vertical spine is comfort.
I thought about finding different handlebars, but the cables might not fit, or bind when I turn. If I was about 6',6", I probably wouldn't notice.
If I find a small frame Rancher with EPS and IRS, I will buy it. If it is as good a ride quality as the Rubicon, I'll sell the Rubicon, otherwise I will keep both.
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