-
Similar Forum Topics
-
By MMC
I have a Suzuki Quadmaster 500, that I got from a customer. It has less than 400 miles on it. I think I put most of the miles on it, so they sold it to me. I used to drive it a few times a year, treatinjg the gas or emptying it when I could.
I relocated and wanted to get it running again. It will start with little trouble, then run for 15-20 minutes, then start to chug a bit, then finally stop. Sometimes I can start it again, but it doesnt continue to run long after that.
when I first opened the oil filter when I moved, it was drenched in oil and fell apart. I went and replaced it with a OEM foam filter. I notice now, when it does stop, there is a small amount of oil on the bottom the air filter box, and it's clean oil. I had recently changed the oil before I moved. Each time I clean that up, I go through the same process. It will run, and I can drive it for a bit, but then it slows down and stops.
Any suggestions? I am not an ATV mechanic by far, but can work on most of the stuff I own. I did have trouble finding a dealer who would work on it. One local one, said "We dont' work on stuff that's over 20 years old" It can't be because of parts, I just laughed.
-
By SnowmanTX
Hello!
First time poster here, looking for help. This will be long, but I want to give you the whole story. I'm very confused because I am a fairly experienced mechanic but must be missing something. A friend who is not mechanical brought me a 2003 Eiger 400 automatic that didn't run. A quick inspection revealed that the motor was seized. I pulled the top end and found the cylinder and piston rings were rusted together from the machine having been submerged at some point and then left to sit for several years.
I put in a new piston and cylinder and checked the valve lash. Compression test today was 150 psi. Replaced the corroded vacuum petcock with a Yamaha petcock, cleaned the fuel tank out, and replaced all the fuel lines. Replaced the badly corroded carburetor with an Amazon aftermarket model (with good reviews) and it wouldn't start. Found that there was no spark so I substituted an Amazon 4-pin CDI box and found that I now have good spark. It still wouldn't start so I used a little starting fluid and it fired right up for about 3 seconds.
Now, after cleaning and checking out the new carburetor, I have found that when it cranks and fires, the engine actually kicks backwards momentarily and then resumes cranking. It is acting like the spark is way advanced and it is firing before TDC. I know that it is turning backwards momentarily because I still have the recoil off and I can see the starter cup rotating and then literally stopping momentarily when it fires. I've had the flywheel off to check the magnets and the woodruff key. The flywheel does not have the exposed magnets, but the fully enclosed magnets like the replacement RMStator flywheel. The woodruff key was in perfect condition. The pickup coil resistance test was good.
Since it seems like a timing issue, I pulled the cylinder head off again and double-checked the timing. It did appear that the timing marks were off by one tooth, so I corrected that and thought that I had found the problem. Unfortunately, it still does the same thing...It will crank just fine, but won’t start, and kicks backwards when it fires whether I use starting fluid or not.
Since the timing is not adjustable on this machine, I’m wondering if the factory CDI circuitry incorporates any type of variable timing feature that is dependent on RPM? That is about the only thing I can think of.
I've read other threads that discuss this "kickback" symptom and the usual culprits are weak battery or a too lean condition causing preignition. I've installed (and charged) a new battery and triple-checked both carburetors...the original one that I completely cleaned, and the Amazon replacement. Same response with both carbs, which leads me back to questioning the CDI.
Any body else run into this?
Thank in advance for your help.
-
By 92BayouB
Hey there all,
First off thanks for the board. My Bayou 220 has survived 3 teenagers and is on its 4th now. Up until recently it has been a virtual tank....until I decided to fix it;)
Noticed some smoking from the engine block (not exhaust) so figured it was time for a quick top end rebuild. Now that I have it all back together, it fails to start. I've pulled the starter rope until my arm is tired.
So I will be as detailed as possible and hopefully get some help.
Completed:
-New Head gasket
-New Valve seals
-New piston (standard)
-New rings (standard)
-All new seals
-Cleaned up head and valves (didn't do any resurfacing, as it all cleaned up pretty easy)
-All torqued to spec
-Piston ring gaps all checked out
-Valve clearances (Intake: .18mm, Exhaust .20mm). Not too tight, not too loose.
Pros:
-Engine IS making decent compression
-DO have spark
-Will fire for a split second if I drop some gas in the spark plug hole and pull start. Will NOT from carb and or intake valve.
Timing:
So I followed the guide of: TDC
-Flywheel aligns on the “T” mark on the engine site hole
-Cam gear mark aligned with the cover mark
Seeing as this is my first time doing a top end rebuild on an ATV. Here are my questions and concerns:
-I didn't realize (dummy me) that there are 2 TDC's. 1- Compression, 1-Exhaust.
How do I know if I'm on the right one?
-Does the cam need to be aligned a certain way when put back in? I just aligned the cam gear dimple with the cam and put it in. No alignment.
Thanks ahead of time. I feel like I'm 90% there, but I'm missing an important step for completion.
-
By deckeda
The story goes, my daughter "did something" to the ATV and now it won't start. I suppose these things aren't kid proof.
All I know is that the Neutral light stays lit no matter what gear, and subsequently the starter won't turn. I briefly Googled but only came across symptoms of the Neutral light never lighting up.
I have downloaded the service manual from this site (thank you) but don't quite know where to attack it first. Thanks for reading.
-
By quadmaniac
(Honda)
Honda is developing an off-roader that can carry just about anything, except a driver.
The 3E-D18 has a rack system that allows different types of gear and components to be attached to it. (Honda)
The 3E-D18 is an autonomous ATV designed to be used as a workhorse by construction crews, farmers, search and rescue teams, etc., or adventurers who just need a little help lugging their gear into the wilderness.
It can even accommodate elaborate mechanisms like a fertilizer spreader. (Honda)
The electric 4x4 is powered by swappable batteries and fitted with a rack system where all sorts of equipment can be mounted. Honda envisions it being used for spreading fertilizer, plowing snow, fighting forest fires and even picking crops, and its non-pneumatic “airless” tires mean it’s virtually flat-proof. Fitted with GPS and a guidance system, it can be summoned and deployed via an app on a smart device.
via GIPHY
-

Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.