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By prdicon
I was looking to buy a new ATV.
I was debating between Polaris sportsman 450 and Honda rancher.
Polaris it a bit cheaper.
But can you tell me which one will have more demand on the used market? Which one will keep it's value better?
Let's say 3-5 years from now.
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By DarkRider
Hey Everybody,
I am always curious about any ATVs I haven't tried yet. I'll probably be in the market for something different soon, currently looking to sell my 05 Brute Force 750. I decided to note my favorite features of any 4x4 ATV and compile them into a list. These are all models I've had in the past, the King Quad 300 and Brute Force 750 are my current models. I'll most likely consolidate to one.
Really just wanted to get some ideas on what other people have owned in a similar range, and maybe get ideas for my idea quad (used). So far, I keep finding myself back at the 05 Yamaha Kodiak 450 or Grizzly 450. Not sure exactly what years they made which, but they seem pretty similar.
Some of the features I tend to like best (aside from durability and reliability)
Engine braking (good for hill descent) Park gear (the regular parking brakes always seem to be finicky) Mid sized engine for better fuel efficiency (Seems that anything 500 or above really starts to guzzle gas, and they fit better on narrower trails) IRS (more comfortable ride) Diff Lock (can't live without it) **Side note: I know Durability and Reliability might seem like they'd be the same, but the way I am defining them is:
Durability is how long I can go without something breaking. OR how often things break with seeming not much of a good reason. Reliability is about the on-trail experience of having everything work properly as designed (i.e. Starting up and being able to get going without much issue, the 4wd drive engages without quirks, I can park it on a hill when needing to help someone else without worrying it'll roll away, etc) My Brute Force 750 is a perfect example of why Durability and Reliability were rated so differently. With durability, I really never felt like I've had anything break on the thing that was really from riding it. Which is great in that regard. But all of the things i've had to fix on it seem more so in it's design. The infamous KEBC code on the dash that refused to go away even after completely cleaning and lubing the KEBC and confirming it functions properly. Hard starting issues. 4WD requires you to roll about 10 to 15 feet to engage, so if you get stuck in 2WD, you're in a pickle. The infamous bus connector that goes bad and stops your charging system from working. I've worked through all of these, but these are all things I'd consider reliability issues that happen really at no fault of mine as I ride it pretty gently. Writing up this list has actually put a lot into perspective for me. The King Quad 300 really is a superb quad. The inclusion of the Super Low range provides stellar engine braking down pretty much any hill you can think of, it seems like it's unmatched. It has great gas mileage, and it's been dead reliable despite being a 1994. It's got 4x4 AND Diff lock, and the semi automatic transmission also help with not letting the quad get out of control down a hill. Plus it's more fun to me and gives me a bit more to do while riding. The biggest annoyance so far has been the parking brake. No matter how much I adjust it, it just doesn't seem stay adjusted after some time. I believe this might just be flawed on these models. Also, parts availability is not the greatest on these since they don't make anything newer with any similar parts. Front axles are quite expensive, rear drive shafts go for $400 to $500 brand new, etc.
And that's where the Park gear on Yamaha's Ultramatic eliminates that issue. That's where I keep landing on the older Grizzly or Kodiak 450s. They have a park gear, IRS and Diff lock, a lot of power and they're super fun to ride (got to test one). But I'd be giving up fuel efficiency and the Super Low range. The Ultramatics still have good engine braking, but still not comparable to the Super Low on Suzuki.
With ALL that said, curious about what other people out there have had and enjoyed, and I'm just looking to get some ideas of what other smaller/mid sized quads are out there with similar features. I don't really know anything about Honda, Suzuki, or Arctic Cat models from the mid 2000's.
Curious to hear other perspectives!
Make Model Year Parking (gear/brake) Engine Braking Fuel Efficiency (mpg) IRS Diff Lock Durability (1-5) Reliability (1-5) Overall Rank (1-5) Suzuki King Quad 300 1994 Brake Super Low range 20 Yes Yes 4 4 4 Honda Rancher 350ES 2002 Brake (none?) 17.5 No No 5 5 4 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 2005 Brake KEBC Module 12.5 Yes Yes 4 2 3 Yamaha Grizzly 660 2006 Gear Ultramatic 12.5 Yes Yes 5 5 3 Yamaha Wolverine 450 2009 Gear Ultramatic 17.5 No No 4 5 3 Polaris Scrambler 4x4 4-Stroke 2002 Brake (none?) 14 No AWD 2 4 1 Polaris Sportsman 500 4x4 2000 Brake (none?) 15 Yes AWD 2 4 1 -
By cruteg8
when your building on a budget but tired of working on the ground and have a bunch of wood laying around lol!!!!!
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By Hagbard
Looking for a DRIVE SPROCKET RETAINER PLATE for a 1987 LT230E (P/N 24751-35B01)? Good luck.
Believe me I searched high and low, including contacting two OEM suppliers in Japan. No dice.
Ran into this problem myself. The part is no longer available, unless you get SUPER lucky on eBay.
My solution was to use the identical part from the newer ones, but you have to switch out the bearing and spacer bushing as well. Basically I took the retainer plate (46) and spacer bushing( 55) from a 160 motor I have for parts, and bought a new 6206 bearing which is the right size to match part (40) https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-30x62x16.../dp/B07XJ7H2VJ There's also a difference in thickness between the sprockets, so I added a couple 14ga. bushings as spacers
So, referencing this parts diagram, you need to get everything from the bearing (40) on out. So, parts 40 (BEARING 09262-30084), 46 (RETAINER 24751-35B10), 47 (OIL SEAL 09283-38017), 48 (O RING 09280-70009), 54 (O RING 09280-21008), 55 (SPACER 27531-35B10), and 59 (PLATE, FRONT CHAIN GUIDE 27641-35B00).
https://www.babbittsonline.com/.../50d08495f.../transmission
If you need me to walk you through any of it I'd be happy to help.
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By LT-4WDinNY
I got the side cover off, learned how to put the subtransmission back together. I took the nut off the crank. Grabbed the new flywheel puller. Put the small piece on to protect the crank shaft end, and the flywheel fell off on its own??? So that was weird. I then looked and tested the starter one way clutch. It wasn't in pieces like I had seen on others on YouTube. It only turns in the one correct direction as indicated by the arrow. However, it looks like maybe it is slipping under load? Is that possible?
I know that it was very difficult to pull start since I bought it back in 2001. The guy I bought from had the receipts on a recent engine rebuild by our local Suzuki dealer in the $1200 range because they put the oil filter in backwards. Anyhow, I am trying to make it easier for my kids to ride. I think I verified that the starter clutch was bad by removing the electric starter, then it would pull start normal...
I took pictures of the one way clutch and the CALTRIC replacement parts I bought off Amazon. Looking closer, appears to be heavy wear on the metal pieces in the clutch and scratches on the starter gear surface that goes inside the clutch. I am going to replace the OEM parts with the CALTRIC brand parts off Amazon.
However, I found some other discerning things behind the flywheel. Looks like the center case has cracks, and one broken off tab with the other 2 worn? Also it looks like some scraping inside the case bottom right... assume from when the post broke off. The post was NOT in the case, so probably occurred prior to the Suzuki Dealer rebuild. Also some discoloring on the crankshaft and back of starter clutch. Again, putting in the CALTRIC brand replacements for the starter clutch and starter gear as a set.
Thanks!
Bruce
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