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By Chad Dickerson
I am goin nuts here! I have a 04 400 air cooled 4x4 , I'm a atv,car,truck,mower mechanic for yrs,just sayin. Ok it cranks and kinda fires now and again then after 5 min of cranking and stopping itl start if u touch throttle itl did then u start all over! If u let it warm up sumtimes u can throttle it up other times it just does! Just depends on it? When it stays running it runs awesome,no problems except it just does randomly like u shut key off? Sumtimes itl start right back up others itl do the no start thing! IV put new plug,adjusted valves and hot tanked carb? I'm at a loss here guys! Please any other ideas? I don't think it's anything to do with flywheel? It's not the auto it has a hi low reverse lever on left fender and foot shifter? Help please lol
i know this isnt an atv but same type of thing. I have a riding mower im fixing and selling for my aunt and it has a dead battery. i jumped it off my atv and when i turn the key nothing at all happens. i tried jumping the relay still nothing. this is with the seat down. you wouldnt think this mower would have issues as its a top-of-the-line brand and almost brand new (aunt found it for a good price, still got tits on tires, just sat for a couple months in a mechanic shop
Just got this one and am sharing...
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By Paul Maple
I have a 1999 Sportsman 500, it was running fine, than started to lose power in the winter, I adjusted the idle screw and away I went, than a few weeks ago it died, I have found that i am flooding the engine, compression was at 70PSI and due to the compression release mech. i assume i am good as it compared to the same PSI on a 2000 sportsman 500 i have. i cannot start the atv unless i go full throttle and it starts an runs for about 30 sec than dies, again it is flooded. i ordered a new carb off ebay as i could get one for around $40. put that in same issue, i have checked the timing, (good), valves out of adjustment i adjusted to .006 still same issue, i have found the exhaust lobe and rocker arm to have some wear, i have ordered new ones, but am looking for any other input in this area as well. would the exhaust cam and rocker arm cause the engine to flood? i have used a bore scope and the piston liner has good cross hatching still? any input would be great.
I've bought a used 2007 Polaris Phoenix 200... it's in pretty good shape... but after it starts, warms up, a few minutes of my son riding around yard it will die... it refuses to start back until the next day, then same thing again... I've seen this is a problem but haven't found any real answers... my son is driving me crazy to get him back riding... any help is greatly appreciated...
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Here's a good article and video on the basics when it comes to ATV front end wheel alignments.
When you hear the words front end alignment what comes to mind? Automobiles and potholes may be the first thought. There are other four wheeled vehicles out there running over a lot more than potholes. ATVs and side-by-sides live hard lives crawling over rocks, hauling loads, and crossing trails no other man-made vehicle would dare.
One of the most basic services these vehicles call for is the adjustment of the toe-in of the front wheels. The Suzuki Eiger LT-F-400F calls for this to be checked initially after 100 mi. or 1 month of use, and every 600 mi. or 3 months for the rest of its operational life. Be it a Yamaha Banshee, 50cc mini-quad, or Kawasaki Mule this is a periodic maintenance item that is essentially the same no matter the scale of machine.
Toe-in specifically refers to the amount the front wheels are pigeon toed. At axle level the center of the front tires are closer in the front than in the back. Most ATVs and side-by-sides call for the front wheels to be slightly pigeon toed to parallel.
Keeping the toe-in aliment in specification and adjusted correctly is important for performance, safety, and tire wear. If the front end of the vehicle is in a toe-out position, duck footed, the tires will wear more rapidly and the vehicle will be inherently unstable. In addition, if the toe-in adjustment is in specification but it has been improperly adjusted it may put excess strain on the steering components.
The first step in checking the toe-in is to check the tire pressure. Make sure the tire pressure set correctly in all four tires. The air pressure in the front tires should be as close to the same as possible. Place the vehicle on a level surface and position the steering straight ahead. Be sure to check with the appropriate service manual to see if there are any extra specifics for the vehicle. The Suzuki Eiger for example calls for the vehicle to be weighted as to simulate the rider.
Make a chalk mark on the front, center of each front tire at the height of the front axle. If available set up a toe gauge so that the pointers line up with the chalk marks.
Measure the distance between the front chalk marks. Record this measurement as A. Rotate the front wheels 180° so the marks remain at axle height, but are now facing to the rear. Record the distance between the marks on the backside of the tires as B.
Subtract the front measurement A from the rear measurement B to calculate the toe-in. If the number is negative you have a toe-out condition. Compare your toe-in figure with the factory specification found in the vehicles service manual.
To adjust the toe-in loosen the lock nuts on the tie-rods. The outer tie-rod lock nuts often have left hand threads.
Turn the tie rods with a wrench at the flats to change the toe-in. Be sure to evenly adjust the left and right tie-rods for proper alignment. Check with the service manual to see if there are any specifications for the length of the tire rods or the amount of threads that should be showing. If the tie-rods are not adjusted according to the OEM specifications the proper toe-in may be achieved, but the vehicle will not steer correctly and it could be at risk of breaking a tie-rod.
When the adjustment is correct hold the tie-rod flats and tighten the lock nuts to specification against each side of the tie-rod. Take a slow test ride to make sure the steering functions correctly.
Check out this additional video on ATV wheel alignments:
Ok so I have taken the front hubs apart everything is good and working fluids changed and full In 2 wheel drive the bike works great However in 4 wheel drive high I get a grinding clunking noise right near the foot pegs The universals are all brand new in the complete bike The problem just started after my last ride Sometimes I have to change the rpm to get the bike to go into gear in forward and reverse The bike doesn't make the grinding noise when I have the bike in 4 wheel driver low gear only in high gear Could the shifter need adjusting any help would be great Thanks for your time
the problem with the four wheel drive is instrument indicator will not go to two wheel selection in resonable time. cold or warm same. i have noticed occasional clunk from front differential on de-exceleration sometimes. advice or solution needed, thanks.
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