Gotta love Facebook Marketplace, and the crackheads that you can buy things from on there... Naturally, I'm like "Hook up the trailer, let's go get this pile of eBay parts!" and hauled as* to this dude's house with 3 crisp Benjamins to wave under his nose. Showed up about 20 minutes early to find him and his buddy hastily reassembling the pile of plastics into a semi-presentable quad, using some real sweet bulk bin galvanized hex bolts from Tractor Supply Racing Co. Looked it over and handed him the three bills in exchange for a transferrable registration from 11 years ago, and a STACK of handwritten bills of sale from the last 11 years, since apparently no one has gotten it functional (for long). Average ownership period ranges from 6 months to 2 years. Fingers crossed, lads! Got it home, and hit it with a healthy dose of bike wash and the pressure washer, more bike wash, a lot of scrubbing, and more pressure washing to get years worth of crud off of it. The entire left side of the crankcase was covered in an eighth inch of caked oil mud, as though there had been a catastrophic loss of oil at some point in the past, because it was nowhere near the drain or fill holes. Totally opposite side. Managed to find the VIN hiding in there and ran it for giggles. PO mentioned that he "had it running at the beginning of the season, but it was 'rough' " and that he had cleaned the carb, but it didn't help much. And now it just plain wouldn't fire at all. Kind of threw his hands up and shrugged. So, after cleaning it up enough to turn wrenches without looking like a Texas oilman, I took off the plastics and started poking around. Found a few fishy spots in the harness where previous attempts at repairs had been shoddily made and hidden with black tape. Sorted those out, drained and filled with fresh oil and a filter, and hooked up a battery. Turned the key, got a green light, hit the starter switch and got a little grunt and squeak out of it, then nada. No light, no nothing. Pulled out the DeOxIt D5 and started pulling apart all the connectors and giving them the business. put everything back together again, turned the key, got green light, and starter cranked! Then nothing again. Started fiddling with the wiring and connections while watching the green light, and saw a flicker when I bumped the 25A fuse holder. Gave it a squeeze, and sure enough, the light came on. Thing was full of powdered remains of spade terminals, so I installed a NOS replacement model from RADIO SHACK that had been swimming around in my toolbox for nigh a decade. Sure of my fix, I tried the starter again, and NOTHING again. More fiddling revealed that the OTHER fuse holder (15A) was the same. Homebrewed another fuse holder from spade connectors and shrink tubing, hooked it all up and everything was good. Now that I could crank it, I poured a couple cups of gas in the tank and pulled the plug to check for spark. Good blue spark, once I cleaned up the theretofore fouled plug and gapped it. Screwed it back in, with a healthy dose of ether, and gave it a crank. Not even a wheeze or a sputter. Off with the carb! So, I think our old friend PO has a drastically different definition of "carb cleaning" than I do. I'm thinking maybe he wiped down the OUTSIDE of the thing, and was shocked that it had little to no result. That white stuff is a combination of powdered aluminum oxide and near-varnish fuel. Has the consistency of slight dried mayonnaise or white library paste, but no pleasant wintergreen aroma to match. A quick perusal of the Amazon bargain bin turned up a carb (BST31SS) and non-vacuum petcock for $25, with a caveat that the carb required minor modifications to fit. Four days and a lot of sandblasting and surface prep on the plastics while I waited, the carb arrived today and I drilled out the ferrules for the choke and throttle cables to accept slip-fit cables instead of thread-ins. Other than that, the only difference was a lack of one vacuum port for the petcock, which I had anticipated and purchased a regular old one with no vac diaphragm in it. Safety first, amirite? Now with definite spark, and reliable fuel delivery, I started cranking and fiddling with the idle and air screws, managed to get it to fire up - almost literally~ There was a LOT of smoke coming from near the exhaust port on the head, thought I had loose header studs for a minute, then realized it was just more of the old oil mud I had missed while cleaning, burning off between the fins on the head and the exhaust heat shield. First fire up - lots of smoke While I was changing the oil, I took the opportunity to pull off the access covers and adjust the clutch and valve lash, so I was feeling OK about running it a little more. Got the idle and mixture set a bit better and decided to test out the transmission and shifting a little. Testing reverse Realized I left the parking brake set, so it stalled out. Oops. Another thing I did while waiting for Brown Suit Santa to bring my carb was to remove the diff lockout pin from the shifting mechanism and I wanted to see if it worked. Here's the quad, up on the lift, minus the LF wheel (due to a seized cylinder I've since replaced) with range set to HIGH, and Differential Lock engaged. Worked like a charm. Had to holler at the dog who was camped out below the rear tire Dog under the tire. Again. I think she has a death wish. Or perhaps aspirations of being a jackstand in the pro-leagues. Testing Diff Lock in High Range Put the wheel cylinder in, (Dorman w38750 for a 1991 Geo Metro/Suzuki Swift was a precise fit and only $10) to replace this crusty POS: put the wheel and hub back together, put seat back on and fired it up. Made sure it would start again after turning it off. Long Live The King All the repairs appear to have been successful all around! I took it out for a quick rip up the street and back, needs a little bigger main jet (it came with a 145 installed, which I swapped out for the 120 OEM spec, but it feels boggy at WOT, so I'm going to experiment a little after I get the airbox back together, but 145 seems like a big jump. I'll try to post an update once I have the plastics all refinished and installed next week. Pretty sure it's going to be yellow, no camo or green bullshit for me thanks Hope you didn't hate my post.

Hello everyone, I just joined hoping to find a board that is more active than the ones I currently use. It seems everyone has gone to facebook now and that really just annoys me... its too hard to keep track of posts you interested in. Anyway.. I live on the boarder of middle and eastern Tennessee. I am a Suzuki guy. I currently own a 2020 Suzuki King Quad 500, a Arctic Cat 90 for my niece and I am working on restoring a 1997 Suzuki Quad Runner 250. I am hoping to find some help with that project here.

I was toying with the idea of adding a gas tank to the front rack to add weight (and gas).

Me too. That extra wheel pulling sure makes a difference! With those low gears it's the most fun you can have at 1 mph lol

Hi folks! Just dropping by to say hello. I'm from Wellington, New Zealand, and I've owned pretty much every model of quad available since 2004. Currently have a 2011 YFZ450R, 2017 KingQuad 750 and a 2021 Sportsman 1000. See you out there!

I've had a similar issue with a 2006 Arctic Cat 400. I had a mechanic tell me it'll happen when there's a loose magnet on the flywheel. Im still working on it, but it's something you could check into and see.

yeah, I am getting ready to delete my facebook account. I am tired of it and the drama that comes with it. I am hoping people start migrating back to what made the internet so great for enthusiasts. It seemed you used to be able to find forums for just about anything you were into with hundreds of posts a day. A ton of information on the subject you were looking at. I am already finding this one useful, I have been reading through Another One back from the Dead by Hagbard.

So it bogs down when you hit the throttle off idle, correct? Is the choke working properly? Typically I would guess there is not enough fuel flow or fuel in the carb bowl so when you hit the throttle it goes dry but maybe you have a spark delivery issue.

Hey everyone, just joined the Forum. I own a 2000 Yamaha Grizzly 600 4x4. I have an electrical issue, but I will post this on the appropriate discussion. Thank you in advance. Mike

Welcome to QUADCRAZY! King quads are awesome, great machines.

My name is JT and I am from Columbus, MS. I love to ride ATV's and dirt bikes as much as possible!!!

Thanks for the add. Just picked up my 1st quad, been riding and fixing sleds and bikes most of my life , just never had a quad before.

I am from Missouri, looking for some more ride buddies. I have a yfz 450 and a raptor 350 . I ride in Central and South missouri and arkansas

Mountain Grove Missouri. Check out axcracing on Facebook.

An AGM left me stranded on top of a mountain and I swore I'd never use another. I had to walk 2 hours back to camp to retrieve a lead acid battery. Lead acid is better except for the fact that all the bouncing around on an ATV makes it impossible to keep the acid in it which corrodes any metal on the ATV and destroys the battery. I'm currently using gel batteries which are somewhere between AGM and lead acid.

You are on the money with small rechargers. First year I owned both my lawn tractor and HD Road King I replaced the batteries. The winter drained the batteries charge down below it's capacity to recover. I learned my lesson on that and now keep all batteries on some type of trickle charging system; whether it's solar or electric. It's definitely cheaper in the long term since most batteries that are taken care of will last around five years.

When your quad sits a lot , especially the new electronic ignition, computer controlled ones they should be kept on a battery maintainer. The small trickle used by the electronics even when the ignition is off will drain the battery. SLA and AGM batteries also always have a bit of self discharge so the combination of the electronics and self discharge means they must be kept up topped up. They do not like to be deep discharged and quickly lose capacity if they are .. Totally flatten either type and you are pretty much guaranteed the battery is toast.. A small maintainer is a lot cheaper than a battery and will eliminate the buying of a new battery every year. I have one on my truck, another on my quad and a third on my riding lawnmower.

For ATVs and snowmobiles the AGM has the advantage in cold weather. They are also a lot less expensive. Lithium shines in solar applications and where very deep cycling is wanted without service life suffering as badly , and of they have a weight advantage when used in a battery bank in a motorhome. For motorcycles, ATVs and Snowmobiles where you want cold weather starting and charging far more than need of reserve capacity, go with AGM or SLA. They're rugged, better in the cold and are far less expensive than Lithium