Mech

Yes they are.. Regular use, even if it's not needed, is the cure.

Good one. Happy motoring.

Yeah a socket's good because you can tap it in the center, but if you have to tap around the sides then it's much of a muchness. One of the old bearing cones would probably be ok to use in this case, as long as it doesn't get stuck in the housing.. haha. Tap it in the same way it was originally and you'll be able to use a punch again to get it back out. If you are using a punch to tap the new cup in, use a small diameter one that doesn't touch the inside where the rollers go, just use it out on the outside edge of the cup.

Ok. Glad to hear you got it going. Glad it cured all the problems. $150 to plug in some other customers PCM ? Sounds about right.. Why we need to do things our selves. I would have shipped it to you if you'd got it sent to me. Yell out if there's another time. And yeah, this is a good forum. Having the manuals is a big help, friendly people, no pedantic dribble, good mods.. One of the best.

The method I use it a hammer and then a punch. Hold the bearing down on the housing and then tap lightly all around the outer bearing race with a hammer. For those axle bearings you don't tap on the inner race, because it will cause the balls to damage the races. If it was a bearing on a shaft though, they you would use a punch and tap on the inner race.

Yeah the bearings will go in till they come up against a lip. The seal does have the side with the spring facing inwards. Not sure how far in the seal go but you should be able to see where they ran on the old shaft. If the axle shaft has damage where the seal runs, it's ok to position the seal slightly further in or out so the new one runs on a good surface.

First thing would be to check the choke is working. You can do that by warming the engine then opening and closing the choke. It should go rich and smelly if the choke is richening the mixture. If not then check the plunger pulls out when you operate the lever. If the plunger is pulling up/out, but not working to richen the mixture, it's likely because the throttle isn't closed enough. The choke plunger opens a bypass of fuel and air around the butterfly. For the choke to operate and richen the mixture there needs to be enough vacuum to lift the fuel into that bypass which is high up on the carb. The throttle butterfly has to be closed off a lot so there's good vacuum through that bypass passage, so if the idle's not adjusted right and depending on the butterfly being opened to keep it idling, the choke won't work. The choke won't work either if you are giving it throttle while trying to cold start it. It's also possible that the choke is letting the air bypass the butterfly, but if the jet is blocked and not letting fuel into that air, it won't work. You could try adjusting the idle speed and mixture and see if you don't perhaps end up with the butterfly being more closed than it is at the moment. Then check the chokes operation by warming the engine up and opening the choke and it should start to run rich. If the choke isn't richening the mixture after the idle's been adjusted then it's probably time to take the carb off, strip it entirely to pieces, clean every part and put it back together again. The carbs are a bit hard to get out, and harder to get back in, but if you undo two bolts at the back of the air-box the box will drop down about an inch and move backwards about an inch and it's not so bad. The hardest part is getting the rubber tube (which has always gone hard) from the air-box to the carb back on the carb. I use a long pair of bent long-nosed pliers, closed up and used as a round sort of bent lever to get the tube back on. I get the carb on at the engine, then start it at the bottom of the air-box tube, then use the closed pliers to slip between the carb and tube and gently lever/coax the tube over the carb. Inspect the engine side rubber manifold for tears or splits while the carb's out and be gentle with it so as not to split it getting things back together.

Onya ! It's a hassle but when we have a suspected short in the wiring in these quads we really do need to take all the bodywork off and inspect all the wiring. Far too many people start throwing stators, regulators, cdi, switches.. everything and anything, at the bike rather than do the foot work. Electronic components these days are very reliable. If an electronic part does fail, It's likely as not to have failed because of a wiring problem..

There should be two idle adjusting screws, one for idle speed and one for idle mixture. You need to get it to idle as slow as it will using the speed screw, then adjust the mixture screw to get it at it's middle position between going rich and slowing and going lean and slowing., then adjust the speed screw again to get it at it's slowest steady idle and then readjust the mixture screw again to get it to it's middle position between going rich and slowing and going lean and slowing. Keep doing that until it's idling slow and steady in the middle of it's mixture range, then, if it's too slow you raise the speed slightly using the speed screw but don't adjust the mixture any more. If everything inside the carb is right, that should work. If it seems you need to readjust the mixture, it's probably because something's not set right or worn in the carb. The speed screw is on the side of the carb near the slide, and the mixture screw is underneath near the front of the carb and probably up a recess. .

That other arm that's pointing down in the photo, it engages with the auto clutch disengage mechanism. You need to make sure that is going to engage with the mechanism when you put the side case on. There's also a small arm with a spring and a roller on it, that roller has to roll against the star shaped washer on the shift drum/barrel. It keeps the drum in position once it's in a gear, but it also pushes the drum around once the gear shift mechanism has moved the drum half way into gear. It ensures that the gear change happens even if you take tour toe off the lever before the gear change is fully accomplished. Once it is together again, with the side case back on, you need to check the reverse lockout is adjusted correctly.

Yeah the thing on the shaft with the blue arrow pointing at it works like a racthet to rotate the shift drum/barrel around to change gears. The forked spring at the top of that piece shown has to be engaged onto a pin in the case, one leg of the spring either side of the pin so it self centers the shift shaft between changes.

Right.. So unless you split the cases and had the gears out, it does look likely that you will have a problem inside the side case..

Oh ok. And would this have an interlock on reverse ? I suppose I should look in a manual.. haha.

I think that the "success" mark is so that when people come in with a problem they can search for it being mentioned before and then see which ones were reported as having being cured. It is gratifying to be accredited with the right solution, and to receive thanks from appreciative people (thank you Bobby), but since this one is cured and therefore a useful reference to someone else, perhaps you could just mark your last report back as containing the solution. As for the result.. It probably means, if you are absolutely sure you've had the thing completely stripped down and replaced every O ring, that it needs a bigger main jet or a smaller main air jet. They should be jetted so the needle sits in the center position.

Is this a five speed manual with a clutch, or a belt drive system ? What is the "rod" you replaced ?

Yeah it should be no trouble. I'd take the chain right off to make sure it didn't somehow mysteriously get drawn around and perhaps bunched up near a crankcase doing some damage. You'd want to keep on eye on ventilation and on the temp if it's in some place without good ventilation.

There might be a bit of the old bearing cup showing that you can use a punch against to knock it out, or there will be some cut-aways in the aluminium cup seat. It's important to work right the way around the cup as you knock it out. If the cup gets cocked over as it's coming out or going in it will jamb, and if you keep hitting it then it will chew out and distort the bore it's in. It's very important they get hit out and in nice and squarely. If it jambs stop and check which side needs to be tapped to get it straight again, and if need be, tap it back the other way to straighten it up before proceeding..

Yeah a big socket, the old cup of the bearing, flat metal, any thing that will get it down to the right level... As long as it goes in square, without getting tilted, it's fine. Same with the bearing cup, you have to make sure to tap it down a little at a time all the way around so it doesn't get at an angle. And they sound different once they get to the bottom of the hole. If the bearing's still moving down it sounds slightly dull, and when it gets bottomed out it rings sharply.

Yeah, start it with a hammer till it gets down flush and then use a thin punch that won't touch the edge of the cup where the bearing is going to touch. The bearing cup is hard but an engineer's punch is harder and can deform the edge of the cup. If you use a soft bolt to knock it down the last bit you won't harm the cup though.

Thick oil helps in a worn engine that has white-metal/shell bearings, but it doesn't help with roller bearings, and if it's in a cold climate it can get pumped slow at startup and it can even strain the oil pump. I think people have heard that thicker oil helps in old cars.. and so assume it will help in a bike as well.

It's good idea to go right over a new bike checking everything and doing what ever's needed, and then hopefully getting a reliable service out of it. You'll get to the end of if eventually. Seals can be tapped in with a hammer. The bearing cones will probably need an engineers punch. You could make do with a long bolt with the threads sawn off so it ends in a flat face.

And Gw's suggestion of a nut splitter is a good idea given it and the chisel are both the same price. Well... if it's ok quality anyway. The chisel doesn't have anything to go wrong, it can be resharpened, and it's handy for other purposes.

One of those kits the bearings look like rubbish, bad finish, and no name. The amazon set have a better finish to them, part numbers(which most reputable bearings have) and I think I can see a name on them. Oh.. and I just saw the prices.. haha.

Have you tried sliding the sprocket hub on from that right side ?

Thick oil doesn't help bikes with roller crank bearings, they need good oil flow, not pressure. I'd stick with the manufacturers recommendations for your temperatures.