Gwbarm

I looked and was not sure which wiring diagram was correct for the bike. Right mech, sounds like the switch wires are not color coded right, you can take the switch apart see which wire colors operate on and off, then look at the wiring diagram and wire it accordingly, some of the switches you can take the terminal out and move it to where it needs to be and still use the connector. Just looked at one of the wiring diagrams on the main switch R and Br in on, and B/W and B is off.

BWhen you touch the 2 posts together you are bypassing everything and sending battery voltage directly to the starter , if you have 12 v going to the relay when you push the button the relay closes and you get 12v to the starter soloenoid one with 2 big post and then to starter if it’s good and your wires going from the start button or switch are good .

That is your starter cutout relay needs replacing

Are you getting 12v and ground to the small wires on the solenoid.

Your light video seems consistent, will it not spark at the plug even with the plug cap off.

I thought the same thing and was contemplating doing this to my Bear until I read this: "A direct current-capacitor discharge ignition (DC-CDI) system brings this 400-cc utility ATV to life. Alternatively, a mechanical recoil also starts the Big Bear’s machine and may serve as backup. The AC magneto generator brings power to the quad’s electrical components, such as the headlights and other accessories". and even after I read it I didn't really understand, if it was generating AC when is it converted to DC before the CDI , not really anything between stator and CDI , but the rectifier is very close to the CDI, maybe im thinking outside of the box. It turned out that wasn't my problem, but, I had already decided, I didn't want to do that, it probably wouldn't work as good as factory, so I thought, just spend the money, get the new one, in a years time you won't even know the difference, and your ATV will still be purring Hopefully !

The 570 would definitely have more power, it depends on what type of riding you are doing, all of mine are 400s and for what I use them for I do not need anything more powerful. Not really sure what you are looking at, do a side by side spec comparison, that might help you decide.

Great video I have watched it several times, but the CDI he is wiring in was an AC CDI the 2000 400 uses a DC CDI , maybe the 350 used AC, not sure, there may be some way to convert it to DC through a rectifier, a good idea, but I wasn't sure it would work with the 400, but he did say it would work with the 400.

How is the CDI repair working out. Very interested to see what you find in there.

When you put your hand over the intake do you feel correct suction or does it feel weird.

Well I found the problem I had a flawed wiring connection in my high tech testing facility. See the red wire that's supposed to be hooked to the negative battery post, it goes down to a little short black wire hooked to the frame, the connection point that is now covered in black tape was the problem.

It seems to be not available new, I would try eBay, im sure you already have, the only other option that I can think of is mount a different one somewhere, that uses the same size cable.

Thats high tech for 2002

I only turned on key no green light which I always see no start with button pull starter is still off till I get new gasket

All electrical is accessible, everything is off including the tank, except console area with key switch neutral light, I will take a look in that area and see what I can see.

The last thing I did was video the plug sparking and it worked fine, and then unhooked the battery,i always unhook the battery after testing just in case, don't want my junk to catch fire when im not around until I feel confident about the wiring.. I thought the battery cable could have possibly hit the frame and blew a fuse, but no fuses were blown, unless there is one I haven't found yet, I checked the main fuse box with 4 fuses and the soloenoid with 2 fuses all were good.

Success short lived, Went out this morning to start cleaning the carb to work on get it started, and I have no power, no neutral light, no nothing, thought it might have blown a fuse , they were all good, so I am going to start tracking that down.

Welcome everyone, glad to have you, great site with lots of activity.

Here too, plus labor is so high, we have turned into a throw away society, it the old days we didn't buy new we rebuilt it.

Nice to see it sparking. IMG_3566.mov

You might be surprised at these cheap master cylinders, I have put a few on these little Chinese scooters and have been very impressed with the quality, rubber is good thick a lot better than I expected.

Still messing with it, need a new gasket but I did put it back together long enough to see it spark, the coil fit in nicely the right way, thanks to Eugen for catching that.

So 27 parts, do you do bearings, plus labor maybe an hr, and new OEM starter probably 450.00. Quite a bit of savings.

The rotor cleaned up fairly well I thought it was more pitted than it was.

The Joke or the A arm.