Gwbarm

Thanks for the info B, nice to know they are tough, i have 2 of them , not as popular as the King Quad, heard it referred to as King Quads ugly sister, i just ride them normally, but my impression is it is a powerful massive beast.

It appears that the 230 GEF was made from 1985- 90, there were several versions of the 230 , the S the G the GE and GEF , but as mech said vin # will tell you for sure the year.

I just ran across this video , fairly well made may help a little doesent really go into the clutch much, more into the shifting mechanism.

When i took it out of the damaged carb i thought it was a little beefier than the other one, but the end was finished like you said, it will also only go in one way seemed to have a slight taper on the end that goes into the venturi, if you put it in wrong you cant screw the jet and emulsion tube assembly back in. I was really suprized that it fit, i think that aftermarket carb might have been one of the good ones, no markings of any kind on it.

I decided before i button up the front, i should go ahead and rebuild the Kie Hin carb i bought for it, started taking things apart and found a piece missing, the brass piece that sticks up into the venturi, more like a needle guide, i felt i needed it, went to order, out of stock, and it was 35.00 kind of pricy for a small piece of brass. Decided to check the aftermaket carb and see if it had one. I hadnt dismanteled it since i replaced it on my first eiger. Found out what was wrong with that carb, the top piece of the needle that holds it in position had broken loose and the needle had fallen down and stuck in the main jet, and it was running like this when i bought it , not sure how. So i took all that off and it did have the little brass piece i needed, didnt really expect it to fit, but it did. Since i had the carb all apart i decided to inspect it closely, it was very well made, very identical to the original, the only real differnce i saw was in the jet sizes the main jet was 125 and the eiger was 122 and i couldnt read the numbers on the smaller jets. Float looked good needle and seat looked good, it probably would have run ok once i fixed it, but i wanted to go back OEM. The little brass piece i was talking about is number 17 on the diagram.

I looked several places 13 is not available, but 14 is a clamp you can still get it, but not much use without 13 .

Vin# etched into the frame do an internet vin # search

Had a few other minors projects come up, and hadnt been working on the Eiger much lately, decided today to try and get it back together. Got the backfender back on and got it all wired up. Waiting on my battery. Went to put the rack back on and found another broken bolt, this thing had a hard life, getting tired of having to remove broken bolts. It was broken flush with the monuting flange, but underneath there was some bolt sticking out so i managed to get the bolt freed up fairly easily, but then had to work enough out cut a slot with dremmell and ended up working it out with a screwdriver. It was slow going because i had messed up the threads on the oposite end trying to work it up enough to cut the slot. A little at a time back and forth it finally came out. Starting to look like a quad again.

Iv seen that filter before very well hidden around the crank, you have to pull the side case to change it.

Sorry i misread your post, i thought it wasnt starting by touching the post on the soloenoid, you should have a starter cutout relay that can go bad, it should be a black box close to your fuse box, and check fuses also, there is one attached to the soloenoid. You can trace the wires and check for continuity on the wires, orange white and yellow green wires to check for a break.

Welcome to the forum, all great machines, i hope you enjoy, we are here to help.

Check to make sure you are getting voltage to the starter, if you touch the two posts on the soloenoid together with a screwdriver the starter shouuld rotate. If it doesnt and you have voltage it might be a starter issue, try tapping the starter lightly with a hammer and see if it turns, or makes any sounds. If you went to the starter directly you completely bypassed the switch.

If part #3 is the one you are referring to, i had trouble finding that piece on one of the ones i was restoring, the newer style air filteers are self supporting, thats whaat i used on mine, you just have to find one the right length that will go in there and maybe make an adapter hose. May not be yours its a little newer.

Found it, looks like they made it from 85-88 i suspect parts will be hard to find on one made so few years 40 years ago, i would try Ebay first, but you may have to adapt things to get it running while you keep looking for original parts.

What year

And if you could post some photos it might be helpful, you can take them with your phone.

Thanks for your input! Never had an Arctic Cat.

Welcome, sounds like your in the right place, we love to help get projects back on the trails.

The o rings seem to get brittle over time that and your broken jet fixed you should be good to go

Counterclockwise until resistance is felt then clockwise 1/8 of a turn should do it

Yes that would do it

Could be timing.

I suspected that , but figured that was the first thing you checked, good you found it.

From what you describe it sounds like the transmission is working properly, i was just sitting here pondering over what it might be, from the symptoms it sounds like the clutch is not working, disengaged, if i had a manual clutch and pulled the hand lever it would do exactly as you describe.

Good advise Mech, i had been wondering if it might have been the extra washer that was talked about putting in because of the damaged crank threads ,but wasnt sure if it was actually put in or not