Gwbarm

Thanks Randy , i really enjoyed watching the video, it has all the bells and whistles and the controls are so convienient, and mechanical A+, with diff lock and super low gear is handy. Dont see those in my area very much and when you do they are really abused and trashed, even worse than the Eiger i got.

Good to know that, thanks for the info Randy

Massey Ferguson i have never ever seen or heard of one of those, they make tractors. Interesting!

I figured it was probably Mikuni, the 400 i have does have the Kei Hin, but interesting i have not found a suzuki name anywhere on that engine, and it was also on the Arctic Cat of that era. So not sure if it is actually a Suzuki engine. Usually they have the name stamped on it somewhere.

Sorry! Yes Mech it was 126, but you have already figured that out , i have been out working most of the day away from my machine. I thought the gas blowing backward was a little excessive but i have never worked on a 300. Not even sure which carb is on a 300. My Suzuki has a Kei Hin, but its a 400.

97 I have not really commented on this very much, you guys are covering it quite well, i watched your video numerous times and it seems around 5000 rpm is when your bogging starts, at this point there is an exceessive amount of gas being blown out of the carb, so is this a lean or a rich condition, im not sure, but either one it should not be blowing gas toward the air box, so 2 thoughts come to mind, is the spark advance working correctly to keep up with the added RPMs which im assuming is controlled by the CDI, im assuming because i have never worked on a king quad, the engine sounds very good for an old engine nice and tight, not to throw another pebble in an already rippled pond, but the only time i have ever seen this happen was on a 2 stroke, the piston was installed backwards, there is an arrow pointing to exhaust on the piston, dont know if yours has ever been rebuilt but just a thought.

Thats good practice, probably most carbs dont need new jets and needle, sometimes the float needle needs replacing, and i use the new bowl gasket. I think kits are mostly for peace of mind, i have rebuilt my carb, diaphram doesnt come in the kit anyway. I usually buy kits for carbs i know nothing about, dont really know if the parts are original or from a cheap kit, or have been drilled out.

Also, all the kits are built for OEM carbs and wont work correctly in aftermarket carbs.

If it has the original OEM carb on it, it seems every ATV i have bought recently had an aftermarket on it and their good carb trashed.

Did this just happen when you torqued everything down, seems like it might be tightened against the inner case, did all the washers and spacers get back in the right position.

It was here i remember it but i couldnt remember what was wrong.

How does the spark plug look shiny black or matt black, what color is the smoke, does it ever let up or smoking continuously. Trans coulld possibly be a bad bearing does it have plenty of fluid in it.

Thanks! I must have missed something, i thought we were working on intake.

If you havent adjusted the valves yet, what did you turn to make it worse.

No Sir, you dont owe me an apology, all of your suggestions, i appeciate and welcome. The screws on the Big Bear were like you decribe they can be used in the wrong place , there were several different sizes. It just so happened that all of these were the same size except for the 2 obvious one that hold the shift cable. I think you are right about them being stressed when the original side cover was installed with the gear on backwards. Still havent worked on getting the screw out, wanted to start it first, to see if i have to take the case back off. Did that today. Started it i mean. Checked out the air filter housing about 2 inches of water, iv had it covered since i have had it, and any water that was in it prior should have evaporated, plus the lid was on tight and latched , not sure how it got in there, possibly air inlet tube. This is what was in there for an air filter. I guess it would kinda work. Got that sorted out Got it started still havent cleaned the carb, but not bad, it certainly runs better than it did with the roaming magnets, even with the Niche flywheel. IMG_4124.mov Even took throttle fairly well cause i dont know whats in the carb havent taken it apart yet. It cant be good i have had it a year and who knows how long it sat before that. IMG_4123.mov

If its OEM id should have markings on it Mikuni, Kei Hin not sure which carb came on it , no markings its probably aftermarket. I know you have cleaned it but if it is OEM get a carb kit and rebuild it to get the fuel issue eliminated. If not OEM i would look for one on Ebay. I have had so much trouble with non OEM carbs.

First place i would start Do you have an OEM carb or is it aftermarket, thats the first thing i would do make sure you have the correct carb on it if its aftermarket look for an OEM on ebay and rebuild it, if you plan on keeping it. One step at a time until we get it figured out.

On this case they were all the same except the two that hold the shift cable on, so i couldnt have gotten them mixed up, but im glad you mentioned it, because there is a really long one in the middle of the case that i always forget, its 12mm and i forgot to torque it. i screwed them all in with a hand held nut driver and they all went in smoothly, then torqued to 60, 80, and then 100 inch pds.

Yeah the bolt, the thing that bothers me the most is, i knew it didnt feel right and was going to break even though the wrench hadnt clicked i even got off that bolt and got on one next to it to see if it would click and it did and there was one other bolt that was doing the same but it finally clicked but i felt it was going to break also im really unsure about this torque wrench, i may get a snapon. I know, i wanted to start it today i still have to clean the old gas out of the tank and carb, i have another carb for it, havent rebuilt it yet, but i think im just going to try it with the on thats there. I do take my time, I dont let them get me flustered anymore i used to, then its not fun.

This has turned into a very interesting thread curious to see whats really wrong. You guys are doing great!

Interesting day, checked the transmission again all was shifting good through all the gears smoothly everythings good, so time to button it up refill with oil, get it started. Checked the torque specs for the case bolts, 9.5 ft pounds got my small inch pd wrench converted to 114 inch pds, set wrench to 100 going along good and one snapped, so i dont know if these torque wrenches are that inaccurate or bad bolt, none of the others broke. Luckily it was one of the top bolts probably wont leak. I triied to ignore it all day, but i couldnt unknow that it was broken. Got to get it out but not today. Im thinking i may be able to drill a small hole and use the smallest eas out with taking the case back off, but sometimes my ingenious plans dont work out that well ,we will see. Hooked up lawn and garden battery to get some power to things, it ran when i first got it but thats been a year ago. Got power but no neutral light Everytime i tried to start it i would hear a pop and all power was lost, i checked all the fuses ,all good , soloenoid was very crusty cleaned that, no differnce, traced it back to a bad battery connection. This is by far the most abused and rustiest one i have had. It has red clay dried on it so long i cant even pressure wash it off. Fixed the problem and even got my neutral light back, everything is good i think, will try starting it tomorrow.

Im still a little concerned you are not getting voltage out of your stator, you dont need the charging part to run but you do need correct voltage to your pickup coil .

Yes you can test the coil secondary for correct resistance at the coil , but if you checked to make sure the plug was firing consistantly you should be OK, does the spark look good and bright or weak, and does it get weak when you spin it faster, that seems to be where your problem is.

Did raising the jet needle not do anything.

Thanks! I actually bought some boiled linseed oil, but havent tried it yet, i started tearing into the engine, and put that on hold, and about to get that wrapped up, working on getting in running now. Im looking forward to getting back to it, after i got it clean and smooth i used a lot of Amour All on it, i actually wetsanded it with Armour All, that puts moisture back in the plastic, i would just spray it on and let it soak in, i did this for several days maybe several times a day, you can tell when its good it stops soaking it up., but when i first started doing it within 5 minutes the plastic had completely soaked up the spray. I am curious as to how the lindseed oil will work. The tan i ended up spraying clear on and it really made it look much better.