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viper0906

2001 Kawasaki Bayou 220 Engine Locked Up

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Need help with teardown of 2001 Bayou 220.  New to atv's but not to mechanical work.  I was given this ATV and went to turn engine over by pull rope and the engine is locked up.  Pulled spark plug no change.  Was going to tear down top end.  Any suggestions or tricks before I proceed?

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Greetings! New to atvs as well (and a bayou 220). Don't know how much help I'll be but does the electric start not work? or missing? Only ask cause mine turns over with tons of compression with the start button, but the pull start only comes out about 6-8" before stopping completely. I thought mine was seized as well until I got the start switch working. Just a thought. Good luck!

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Welcome to Quadcrazy. I would pull the plug @viper0906 and spray some wd-40  or some penetration oil inside the cylinder head and let it sit for a day or so then warm the head up with a heat gun and try to spin the engine with the plug out.  

Hopefully the head frees up and it’s not seized.  

Also @Squirrel keep in mind that the cylinder head on the top right side has a compression relief lever that should be used when pull starting. Press the lever down and it should stay until you pull the engine cord.  

It will automatically reset it self so be sure to push it again before pulling the cord or your shoulder will be sorry! 

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@Frank Angerano I got the Head and Cylinder off  and the cylinder off.  The piston was rusted in place to the cylinder wall.  The rings are stuck in also.  I guess I can try to hone the cylinder or should I send it to a machine shop?  Looks like I might get away with a top end kit and maybe a new sleeve?

bayou cylinder.jpg

bayou piston.jpg

piston 2.jpg

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Oil the shit out of the piston and rings. Unless you just want to change it bc it’s torn down already. Buy a honer from the auto parts store and pop it in the drill and go to town on the cylinder. New gaskets, slap it back together with a fresh plug and fire it up!  Change the oil as well.

i just ordered a complete gasket set for that same bike $38 on amazon.

the only thing I would recommend is to change the valve seals since it’s all apart and they come with the gaskets anyway. 

great pics

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So I have not had a chance to hone the cylinder yet but I did soak it over night in simple green and almost all of the rust came off the cylinder walls.  I will post some pictures later.  The second piston ring has freed up a little but the top ring still will not loosen up.  Any tricks on removing the stuck rings other than soaking in oil?

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I have in the past put the piston in a pot of boiling water for a few minutes, taken it out and repeated the steps.  Then soak it in penetrating oil. The heat and cooling makes the metal expand and contract loosening the rings.  You can use a small torch but be careful not to keep the flame to close for to long.   

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Added full ATV info and issue to topic title.

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I just picked up a non-running 220 that I can get to fire and will run for a few seconds and then locks up. It came that way and I turned the crank reverse a full turn or so and then pulled the rope and it fired a few times and locked again. I got it in my shop now, stripped down the bike and gonna pull the motor and have a peek in it tonight

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@Frank Angerano I got the rings unstuck by soaking in pb blaster.  Replaced the rings and honed the cylinder.  Lapped valves and replaced valve stem seals.  While I had it all torn out of the frame I replaced the centrifugal clutch and the clutch discs. Tuned in the carb and was running great now the clutch is slipping.  I have adjusted the clutch according to manual and was using Kawasaki oil for ATV.  Any suggestions?
 

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Nice work so far.    Is it possable that you reassembled the clutch wrong ? I am going to ask one of our other members to chime in @wanrep knows a lot about this sort of thing maybe he can help. 

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@Frank Angerano I am tearing the clutch cover back off today.  I know that the clutch discs were install properly. but do not know about clearances?

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On 11/30/2018 at 4:52 AM, Squirrel said:

Greetings! New to atvs as well (and a bayou 220). Don't know how much help I'll be but does the electric start not work? or missing? Only ask cause mine turns over with tons of compression with the start button, but the pull start only comes out about 6-8" before stopping completely. I thought mine was seized as well until I got the start switch working. Just a thought. Good luck!

this was true with mine too- but that would just be caused by the compression stroke- shouldnt be the case with the spark plug out.

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yes the decompression lever should take the stress off the pull cord- lol I know how it is to pull the cord without it decompressed- not cool

I found that on my bayou 300, it had a half worn out clutch and it liked it adjusted in (tighter, or engaging at lower rpm) than the manual spec of turning the screw in till tight, then out till snug.  Mine liked it in tight, then out a couple turns but not snug.

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@Frank Angerano  Here is the primary clutch old and new.  It was slipping with the new one installed.  I need to measure primary hub and my caliper battery died need to go get one so I can get it measured. The other picture is of some material found in cover what do you think it is?

primary clutch.jpg

primary hub.jpg

material.jpg

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Wow.  The old clutch was clearly well past it’s life expectations !! The metal shavings are where the old worn clutch was expanding against the primary housing metal on metal since the clutch pads are clearly gone. That  is the reason why your new one is slipping.  It’s expanding but not gripping bc the housing is so far worn away. Your going to need a new primary. 

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Spray that cover good with WD 40 and blast it off so you get as much of the metal shavings out as possible.  Change the oil and filter when your done changing the primary housing before you run the engine.  

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@Frank Angerano Just measured primary and it does not measure over 116.2mm.  That is in spec according to the manual that you posted.  What next?

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That primary is gone! The ruts wil prob show that its within spec maybe because the high points in the ruts.  It’s not supposed to look like that.  It has to be replaced. 

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@Frank Angerano Thanks I will.  Should I tear down the secondary also? It has new clutch disc already but I can tear it down and clean them if you think I should?

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The ridges should be flat. Yours look pointed?

If they are new and there’s no metal shavings inside then it should be fine.  

 

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haha thats prolly what my bayou clutch looked like- had to adjust it wayyy tight to run and not slip- I couldn't have done anything about it tho cause any more money I sunk into it was money I lost...

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Prob best thing you did was move that bike along to a new owner @JacobSlabach.  That clutch housing on this bike is in bad shape.  When that clutch looks like that It’s basically the same thing as letting your brake pads on a car run down to the metal.  It destroys the rotor and metal shavings get everywhere.  That primary housing should have some meat on the inside for the clutch to grab.  The secondary is prob ok but the metallic shavings need to be cleaned out.  

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