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2001 Kawasaki Bayou 220 Engine Locked Up


viper0906

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Greetings! New to atvs as well (and a bayou 220). Don't know how much help I'll be but does the electric start not work? or missing? Only ask cause mine turns over with tons of compression with the start button, but the pull start only comes out about 6-8" before stopping completely. I thought mine was seized as well until I got the start switch working. Just a thought. Good luck!

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Welcome to Quadcrazy. I would pull the plug @viper0906 and spray some wd-40  or some penetration oil inside the cylinder head and let it sit for a day or so then warm the head up with a heat gun and try to spin the engine with the plug out.  

Hopefully the head frees up and it’s not seized.  

Also @Squirrel keep in mind that the cylinder head on the top right side has a compression relief lever that should be used when pull starting. Press the lever down and it should stay until you pull the engine cord.  

It will automatically reset it self so be sure to push it again before pulling the cord or your shoulder will be sorry! 

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Oil the sh** out of the piston and rings. Unless you just want to change it bc it’s torn down already. Buy a honer from the auto parts store and pop it in the drill and go to town on the cylinder. New gaskets, slap it back together with a fresh plug and fire it up!  Change the oil as well.

i just ordered a complete gasket set for that same bike $38 on amazon.

the only thing I would recommend is to change the valve seals since it’s all apart and they come with the gaskets anyway. 

great pics

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So I have not had a chance to hone the cylinder yet but I did soak it over night in simple green and almost all of the rust came off the cylinder walls.  I will post some pictures later.  The second piston ring has freed up a little but the top ring still will not loosen up.  Any tricks on removing the stuck rings other than soaking in oil?

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I have in the past put the piston in a pot of boiling water for a few minutes, taken it out and repeated the steps.  Then soak it in penetrating oil. The heat and cooling makes the metal expand and contract loosening the rings.  You can use a small torch but be careful not to keep the flame to close for to long.   

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  • Admin changed the title to 2001 Kawasaki Bayou 220 Engine Locked Up
  • 3 weeks later...

I just picked up a non-running 220 that I can get to fire and will run for a few seconds and then locks up. It came that way and I turned the crank reverse a full turn or so and then pulled the rope and it fired a few times and locked again. I got it in my shop now, stripped down the bike and gonna pull the motor and have a peek in it tonight

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  • 2 months later...

@Frank Angerano I got the rings unstuck by soaking in pb blaster.  Replaced the rings and honed the cylinder.  Lapped valves and replaced valve stem seals.  While I had it all torn out of the frame I replaced the centrifugal clutch and the clutch discs. Tuned in the carb and was running great now the clutch is slipping.  I have adjusted the clutch according to manual and was using Kawasaki oil for ATV.  Any suggestions?
 

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On 11/30/2018 at 4:52 AM, Squirrel said:

Greetings! New to atvs as well (and a bayou 220). Don't know how much help I'll be but does the electric start not work? or missing? Only ask cause mine turns over with tons of compression with the start button, but the pull start only comes out about 6-8" before stopping completely. I thought mine was seized as well until I got the start switch working. Just a thought. Good luck!

this was true with mine too- but that would just be caused by the compression stroke- shouldnt be the case with the spark plug out.

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yes the decompression lever should take the stress off the pull cord- lol I know how it is to pull the cord without it decompressed- not cool

I found that on my bayou 300, it had a half worn out clutch and it liked it adjusted in (tighter, or engaging at lower rpm) than the manual spec of turning the screw in till tight, then out till snug.  Mine liked it in tight, then out a couple turns but not snug.

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Wow.  The old clutch was clearly well past it’s life expectations !! The metal shavings are where the old worn clutch was expanding against the primary housing metal on metal since the clutch pads are clearly gone. That  is the reason why your new one is slipping.  It’s expanding but not gripping bc the housing is so far worn away. Your going to need a new primary. 

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Prob best thing you did was move that bike along to a new owner @JacobSlabach.  That clutch housing on this bike is in bad shape.  When that clutch looks like that It’s basically the same thing as letting your brake pads on a car run down to the metal.  It destroys the rotor and metal shavings get everywhere.  That primary housing should have some meat on the inside for the clutch to grab.  The secondary is prob ok but the metallic shavings need to be cleaned out.  

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@Frank Angerano So pulled the secondary down and found also two things.  First is the new clutches I put in are right at the service limit.  These were after market clutch disc bought on amazon.  The next thing is the question of the two washers on the secondary clutch.  I have information in the clymer manual that does not match each other.  Which one goes on first? The special note at the top of page 212 says the outer washer 20 is thinner than the inner washer 17.

Then the diagram on 212 calls 20 the inner washer and 17 the inner washer.  but pictures on 213 figure 54 and 57 seem to go with thin first then thick?  Does anyone know which way is correct?

 

washers1.jpg

washers2.jpg

washers.jpg

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