Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

viper0906

2001 Kawasaki Bayou 220 Engine Locked Up

Recommended Posts

Need help with teardown of 2001 Bayou 220.  New to atv's but not to mechanical work.  I was given this ATV and went to turn engine over by pull rope and the engine is locked up.  Pulled spark plug no change.  Was going to tear down top end.  Any suggestions or tricks before I proceed?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Greetings! New to atvs as well (and a bayou 220). Don't know how much help I'll be but does the electric start not work? or missing? Only ask cause mine turns over with tons of compression with the start button, but the pull start only comes out about 6-8" before stopping completely. I thought mine was seized as well until I got the start switch working. Just a thought. Good luck!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome to Quadcrazy. I would pull the plug @viper0906 and spray some wd-40  or some penetration oil inside the cylinder head and let it sit for a day or so then warm the head up with a heat gun and try to spin the engine with the plug out.  

Hopefully the head frees up and it’s not seized.  

Also @Squirrel keep in mind that the cylinder head on the top right side has a compression relief lever that should be used when pull starting. Press the lever down and it should stay until you pull the engine cord.  

It will automatically reset it self so be sure to push it again before pulling the cord or your shoulder will be sorry! 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Frank Angerano I got the Head and Cylinder off  and the cylinder off.  The piston was rusted in place to the cylinder wall.  The rings are stuck in also.  I guess I can try to hone the cylinder or should I send it to a machine shop?  Looks like I might get away with a top end kit and maybe a new sleeve?

bayou cylinder.jpg

bayou piston.jpg

piston 2.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oil the shit out of the piston and rings. Unless you just want to change it bc it’s torn down already. Buy a honer from the auto parts store and pop it in the drill and go to town on the cylinder. New gaskets, slap it back together with a fresh plug and fire it up!  Change the oil as well.

i just ordered a complete gasket set for that same bike $38 on amazon.

the only thing I would recommend is to change the valve seals since it’s all apart and they come with the gaskets anyway. 

great pics

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I have not had a chance to hone the cylinder yet but I did soak it over night in simple green and almost all of the rust came off the cylinder walls.  I will post some pictures later.  The second piston ring has freed up a little but the top ring still will not loosen up.  Any tricks on removing the stuck rings other than soaking in oil?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have in the past put the piston in a pot of boiling water for a few minutes, taken it out and repeated the steps.  Then soak it in penetrating oil. The heat and cooling makes the metal expand and contract loosening the rings.  You can use a small torch but be careful not to keep the flame to close for to long.   

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just picked up a non-running 220 that I can get to fire and will run for a few seconds and then locks up. It came that way and I turned the crank reverse a full turn or so and then pulled the rope and it fired a few times and locked again. I got it in my shop now, stripped down the bike and gonna pull the motor and have a peek in it tonight

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Frank Angerano I got the rings unstuck by soaking in pb blaster.  Replaced the rings and honed the cylinder.  Lapped valves and replaced valve stem seals.  While I had it all torn out of the frame I replaced the centrifugal clutch and the clutch discs. Tuned in the carb and was running great now the clutch is slipping.  I have adjusted the clutch according to manual and was using Kawasaki oil for ATV.  Any suggestions?
 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice work so far.    Is it possable that you reassembled the clutch wrong ? I am going to ask one of our other members to chime in @wanrep knows a lot about this sort of thing maybe he can help. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/30/2018 at 4:52 AM, Squirrel said:

Greetings! New to atvs as well (and a bayou 220). Don't know how much help I'll be but does the electric start not work? or missing? Only ask cause mine turns over with tons of compression with the start button, but the pull start only comes out about 6-8" before stopping completely. I thought mine was seized as well until I got the start switch working. Just a thought. Good luck!

this was true with mine too- but that would just be caused by the compression stroke- shouldnt be the case with the spark plug out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


yes the decompression lever should take the stress off the pull cord- lol I know how it is to pull the cord without it decompressed- not cool

I found that on my bayou 300, it had a half worn out clutch and it liked it adjusted in (tighter, or engaging at lower rpm) than the manual spec of turning the screw in till tight, then out till snug.  Mine liked it in tight, then out a couple turns but not snug.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Frank Angerano  Here is the primary clutch old and new.  It was slipping with the new one installed.  I need to measure primary hub and my caliper battery died need to go get one so I can get it measured. The other picture is of some material found in cover what do you think it is?

primary clutch.jpg

primary hub.jpg

material.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow.  The old clutch was clearly well past it’s life expectations !! The metal shavings are where the old worn clutch was expanding against the primary housing metal on metal since the clutch pads are clearly gone. That  is the reason why your new one is slipping.  It’s expanding but not gripping bc the housing is so far worn away. Your going to need a new primary. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Spray that cover good with WD 40 and blast it off so you get as much of the metal shavings out as possible.  Change the oil and filter when your done changing the primary housing before you run the engine.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Bryson Bailey
      Hey I have a Kawasaki buyou I put a new carburetor on it and a brand new spark plug coil and still firing up could you know what my problem is anyone please
    • By 1911Neil
      I had a quad fall in my lap a couple weeks ago. The only things I knew about it was it was a Kawasaki Bayou 220, was in pretty rough shape and was free. I couldn't say no to a fun little project. I've been looking a different ATV forums gathering quite a bit of info and decided this was the one I wanted to join.
      Thanks to this forum, I found the VIN under about an inch of mud and cross referenced it to be a '98. It had been sitting outside for at least 5 years and was told it ran when parked, but had no brakes. Squirrels or mice had been chewing on the handlebar controls and it's generally just kind of beat up.
      So far, I've gone through the carb (not near as bad as I expected), freed up the brakes (will probably need new cables), replaced the spark plug, air filter, petcock and put a new battery in it.
      The gas tank had been empty and looked clean so I put some fresh gas in it and tried to crank it today. I got a neutral light, but the starter button did nothing. I tried pull-starting it and it wouldn't fire. I checked the plug and wasn't getting a spark. I started digging and found some potential issues and some definite problems.
      I have a wiring diagram I found on here but it's just a picture or scan out of a book and hard to read. I don't see a reference to a black/yellow wire, which is my first problem.
      First, it that a factory crimp? One of those wired looks like it goes to the connector in the 2nd pic. Is that just a spade lug type connector? I pulled on it with some needle nose pliers but it didn't seem to want to come off. In the 3rd pic, should there be a fourth wire?
      I've read through and bookmarked the threads Andrew Baker and Arizona have going but I figured I needed to start with these obvious issues first. I have lots of pictures, so if there is something else you want to see, just ask. If I don't already have a pic, I'll take one.
       



    • By Mike Strayhorn
      last year I bought led lights when I was riding my 4 wheeler the lights started getting dim shut off
      now my 4 wheeler will not start the battery is hot everything is dead I checked the fuse and its good 
      would there be another fuse I am missing I'm took the led bulbs out and replaced them with the ones that was in there 
      wonder what meh problem is
       
    • By EoNe Frost Vortex
      Hello i was wondering if someone could help me out iv recently got a Kawasaki klf 220 it needed big end bearing changing so i rebuilt the engine and the bike has compression starts first time every time but after i have been riding for about 10 minutes oil starts to leak from the head just below the exhaust so i replaced the gasket still done it so i took it to a shop he done the same and it is still doing it any information would be great thank you
  • Similar Topics

    • By JJ78
      I have a yamaha big bear 400, tested all fuses and relays. When I turn on key I get nothing, no neutral light or headlights. Could it be the key switch bad?
       
    • By Curtis01
      OK, sooo  I finally did the old skid plate and screen removal to clean out my oil sump during an oil change...  This bike only has a couple thousand miles on it.  Runs like a top still...  Very few issues over the years after buying it used.
      But boy I wasn't expecting to see this!  Piece of a circlip, stuck up in the screen, and a another shard of metal and maybe a piece of gasket material.  Nothing in the oil but that...  Pristine otherwise, and still runs like a top.  Always has.
      Soooo, is it a wrist pin clip?  That's the only thing I can think of like this that could end up in there.  But definitely wanted to throw it out to guys that have seen the innerds of these more than I have.
      The valves on this thing are still within the factory spec even.  Been a really good lil workhorse...
      Any other ideas?

    • By billyz57
      New to Quadcrazy, Has any Yamaha owners had similar issue?
      1987 Yamaha YFM 350 Starts on Pull, but just spins on starter, and won't start.
    • By Chris2018
      I have a 1996 Kawasaki Mojave KSF250. I have no manual on it and it has a no spark issue. If anyone could give me a hand with this or would possibly have a manual would appreciate it. 
    • By Spike976
      So I dug my warrior out of storage replaced the carburetor with one off Amazon & it was running great. Last week it didn't want to start it would crank & I could smell gas but nothing. I replaced the starter,stator,solenoid,spark plug & coil & resistor but still not starting. Checked the stator and its at 30 ohms tried using starter fluid but nothing. I am completely lost and could use some help thank you
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...