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Outlander 2006 400 XT i have replace the startor cover and right after i did that the oil light is on and not turn off, i check the wires and checked the oil level, everything seem to be normal quad is starting without any problem and rev just fine. i did not want to ride it since im not sure if it is faulty sensor or not so just be safe i did not let it run more the a minute or so.
I have read in the owner manual that i need to clean the oil strainer every 200hr unfortunately i never did that, my service manual that i have does not even indicate of such a thing. so i did some search around and it seem like canam split the manual into 3 parts
I have the first 2 but i can not find the last one, part number 219100232. If someone can guide me where do i find the oil strainer so i can clean it i will appreciate it. im going to do an oil pressure test tomorrow to check how many PSI i have, just to make sure.
I just brought home a used 2005 Yamaha Big Bear 400 4x4. It needs front wheel bearings, and a new choke cable. I think i can handle those two items. However, when i went to look at it, it ran good, shifted good, brakes all workds great, but at home when i started it, it would idle nice, but when i gave it gas it seemed like it was flooding out and would die. If i just gave it a little throttle it built up RPMs but any more throttle it began dying out again.
any suggestions why it's doing that?
I'm looking for a service manual, but forum rules say i have to make 10 posts..lol
oops...i just realized i posted in the wrong section of the forum!!
Need new tires for mostly plowing and running around. Found some good tires.
specs call for front 26-8-12 Rear 26-11-12
Has anyone put 27-9-12 & 27-11-12 as more of selections going up on front and taller
Was given a 1997 Bayou 220 for free that had sat in the back of a barn for almost 9 years. Owner had parked it because his kids got too big for it, and they have other bigger bikes, said when it was parked it ran fine. He gave it to me as a trade from some networking I did in his home.
*Marvels Mystery Oil bath down the cylinder to free up the piston rings (I let sit for 24hrs)
*New battery as old one was shot from not having a charge for 8 years. I took my multimeter to the entire wiring harness and cleaned EVERY contact possible, as not even the headlights were working. After a few hours, everything electrical is now working. Headlights, green dash light, red reverse light (goes on and off with changing from reverse to neutral), and starter spinning strong (after a conversation with my mallet).
*Drained old oil (no glitter!) 2qts fresh oil with new filter.
*CDI was shot-- had zero spark and using a multimeter up the wiring harness everything was good up to the CDI—replaced with new one along with new plug wire and new plug now have excellent spark
The original carb was a total loss. I'm assuming it was parked full of fuel with the fuel switch on. It looked like they found it buried in the sand and put it on, it was so eaten and corroded my thumb went through it trying to get it apart—so new carb. I did also inspect the intake and none of what was in the carb made it into the engine, thankfully.
After oil bath, compression was still low—threw some brake cleaner down the intake and noticed smoke escaping from the head gasket—took the head off and saw the original head gasket was completely shot. Replaced that, and now compression is up to 90 from 50. I'm assuming, it'll need to go through a few heat cycles for the compression to really build back up (had the same issue with my 2000 Kodiak 400 from siting for 5yrs after a few heat cycles went to 180)
While the head was off, I did a leak test on the valves and liquid stayed, so no signs of gaps in the valves sealing. Also took a look at the piston and wall and both are in excellent shape, very clean conditions.
At this point, the bike should fire off or at least pop… but now that compression is back it's sucking air in though both the carb AND the exhaust pipe. Putting my hand on the pipe (no muffler) I can feel it sucking air in, doing the same with the back of the carb, I can feel it sucking air there as well. It isn't pushing air out anywhere.
I've checked timing and it's correct. The TDC mark on the flywheel is lined up with the spot on inspection hole. The mark on the timing gear in the head is lined up with the mark on the casting there as well, so timing is spot on. I don't believe it has a leak from the exhaust valve due to the leak test I did. I also don't believe a valve is sticking, I can see them both moving just fine when looking through the inspection holes.
In the past, I've had a bike have intake from exhaust and exhaust going out carb, but that was the timing being off, which doesn't seem to be the issue here.
Any advice on this would a big help as I'm stumped on what could be causing double air intake. Chances are it might be something simple that I'm not even thinking of.
At this point, I'm about to order a box of hair from Amazon Prime from all the head scratching going on.
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