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1994 Kawasaki Bayou 300 ignition problem.


JamesD

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I am having what I think is ignition problems. My 1994 Bayou 300 seems to flood very easy when starting. At first I thought it was a carb problem but while testing the spart I noticed that there is no spark while the engine is turning over. When you let off of the ignition swith there is one spark. But only when you let off of the ignition switch. It has a new coil, plug wire, and plug. Any ideas? I dont know if it is the ignition box, or maybe the ignition switch. Any help would be appreciated

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  • 1 year later...
I am having what I think is ignition problems. My 1994 Bayou 300 seems to flood very easy when starting. At first I thought it was a carb problem but while testing the spart I noticed that there is no spark while the engine is turning over. When you let off of the ignition swith there is one spark. But only when you let off of the ignition switch. It has a new coil, plug wire, and plug. Any ideas? I dont know if it is the ignition box, or maybe the ignition switch. Any help would be appreciated

Did you find out the problem with your Bayou? The one spark when you let off the starter button? Please let me know as I have the same problem.

Thanks,

Edward

Edited by DirtDemon
member posted same addition in his next post
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It sounds like a faulty cdi box.

* Adjusted thread title.

I too adjusted the thread title, it sounds like an ignition problem not a flooding issue.

On that note, I think the problem is in the primary starting curcuit, maybe a short that is rendering the primary ignition system inoperable while engaging the starter. First try jumping the solenoid, if it works, then you know that every thing between the solenoid and starter is ok, and there is probably an issue between the start button and solenoid. Might try checkin the battery cables and connections too, just because. If that doesn't work, try pull starting it. If either of those things works, then you know that there aren't any problems in the secondary ignition.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am having what I think is ignition problems. My 1990 Bayou 300 seems to flood very easy when starting. At first I thought it was a carb problem but while testing the spark I noticed that there is no spark while the engine is turning over. When you let off of the ignition switch there is one spark. But only when you let off of the ignition switch. It has a new coil, plug wire, and plug. Any ideas? I don't know if it is the ignition box, or maybe the ignition switch. Any help would be appreciated

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Wow, this seems to be a regular problem with these machines. The previoust poster, Edward67, fixed the same problem by replacing the pulsing coil. It is what generates the ignition signal from the rotor portion of the stator assembly. Click this link and look at part #59026. You may want to shop around a bit for a better price, you may find a better price on Ebay.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

Ok, I just bought a 1994 bayou 300 2x4. The guy said he put everything new (used) on it except for the coil and the atv only fires sometimes. He said that the ignition coil is bad but I dont think that is the problem. I took it to the Kawasaki dealer and he said that its more than likely the cdi box or stator. Does anyone know what the deal is? I havent been able to get it to fire. I've heard it hit a few times but not fire up. Thanks

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well it has been my experience that a cdi box will either work or it won't. there is no itermittent with an ignition cdi. i would check for a bad wire between the cdi and the coil. if that is ok then i would probably put the coil on it. i have seen alot more coils do what you are describing than anything else.if everything else is new then i would put a coil on it then you know all of your components are new.

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if you guys disconnect the plug and tighten the connectors in the plug (female side) and then clean them and put them together it might completely eliminate your problems. i was always taught in automotive school to always check your connector/conections first. they usually cause approx 70% of all electrical problems.

your friendly neighbourhood mechanic

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If you get a repair manual, it will have directions and specs for some direct resistance tests for the coil and the stator, and possibly other ignition parts. If you can find a problem with a part, or rule as many possibilities out, you will be left with a better idea of what could be wrong. As far as CDI boxes go, the fail in many different ways. Sometimes they work and stop working when they get warmed up. Sometimes they just work intermittently. Sometimes they work consistently, but it won't let the motor rev past a ceartain RPM. The can be very fickle devices. Rule out as much as you can, by testing what you can and go from there. Used igniton parts are always a bad idea IMO. You never know what you are going to get.

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  • 3 months later...

Well I contacted kawasaki today and that was a waist of time. I asked them if they could check my cdi box and they said they didnt have away too. They told me I would have to buy another new box for $380.00 and there is no returns on electrical componence.

That SUCKS.....

Is there any after market boxes that would work.????

Dave

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I don't know that there will be too many aftermarket CDI boxes for your machine, if any at all. I do know that you can get that same OEM unit from an online retailer for considerably less. Try, these sites and compare prices. ServiceHonda.com, Babbitsonline.com, and Bikebandit.com. All of these should have better prices than the dealer, most around 30% less, but all have better prices than one another on different parts, so it would be beneficial to check all three and maybe a few others that you find. If all the other parts check out, and you know your plug is good, and you have made sure all your switches and wiring is intact and working properly, then I think it would be somewhat safe to conclude that your CDI is the problem. I would not recommend buying a used one, there is usually no guarantee that it will work, and even if it does and first, you never know for how long. New is the only way to go with electrical components IMO. Good luck.

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hey DirtDemon,

By chance would you know what the average AC voltage should be that the pick up coil

puts out. I am getting .90 of a volt on the my pickup coil while the engine is cranked over.

The Clymer doesn't give that only what the ohms should be and they are fine.

Dave

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Well for those who are interested i got my 2000 Bayou running today. It ran so good I plowed snow with it. If it starts tomorrow and doesnt fail me, I will post what I did to get it going. I know one thing the ignition on Kaw are very fickle. I have worked on motorcycle myself for 40 yrs and have never seen anything so big a pain in the A-- as this has been

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Well the ole Bayou didnt let me down today it started right up and ran good.

Like i said in predviuos post I would explain what I did and my opinion is I think the basic

reason it would not start was the the cap on the end of the plug wire must be tight and I think the CDI is getting tenperature sensitive to cold weathe because of its age and my experience with electronic parts such as resistors capacitors do change their values due to age and temperature. I basically done a process of elemination on it.

!. Unplug CDI and check its values witha ohm meter as described in a Clymer repair manual. I used 2 different meters a digital and analog with 1000 ohm scale.

CDI values were erratic at 20 degree outside temperature. I took the box out and put indoors to warm up at room temp. And check it again and it had changed alot on the reading I was getting.

2. Clean CDI plugs female and male with a good electronic parts cleaner. Making sure it would not hurt plastic type cleaner. Althougn the contacts didnt look corrodid I did it anyway.

3. Check pickup coil at plug end the 2 wire plug with a ohm meter. I got 419 ohms .

350 to 550 is condisered good. (to be contnd)

Edited by kf9nb
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(contnd)

4. I also hooked up an AC volt meter to the pickup coil plug and cranked the engine over

it read .90 of a volt AC.

5. Made sure the battery was charged up and putting out a full 12 volts.

My experience with automobile system that some will not produce spark unless you do have a fully charged battery. Could be the same with CDI unit on Kaws.

6. I also ohmed out the ignition coil and it checked good. As my Clymer book calls for.

7. I took the CDI from the inside and put it back in the bike and it fired up. and been running good since then.

If anybody has any questions you can email me at [email protected]

Dave

Edited by kf9nb
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(contnd)

4. I also hooked up an AC volt meter to the pickup coil plug and cranked the engine over

it read .90 of a volt AC.

5. Made sure the battery was charged up and putting out a full 12 volts.

My experience with automobile system that some will not produce spark unless you do have a fully charged battery. Could be the same with CDI unit on Kaws.

6. I also ohmed out the ignition coil and it checked good. As my Clymer book calls for.

7. I took the CDI from the inside and put it back in the bike and it fired up. and been running good since then.

If anybody has any questions you can email me at [email protected]

Dave

Wow, its great to find your thread with up-to-date info about your troubleshooting. Ive just recently gotten to know a 1988 Bayou better than I really wanted to. In studying the output from the alternator I have found that the charging/lighting systems are separate from the ignition system. That is why one can use the pull-start to get ignition voltage for starting with a low/dead battery or when it is removed from the ATV. The 1988 model has a CDI system.

Ive been helping a friend work on his Bayou, which wont start. We do not measure any voltage output on the pickup coil, even though the resistance tests good. We are looking for a new p.u. coil.

Edited by atvertoo
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ATVERTOO, Hey before you go thru the trouble of changing the pick up coil I would be sure the plug connection is clean. I think the spades in the plug are made of a brass aloy and can corrode real easy.

Also I used a Beckman industrial type meter to take the ohm and ac voltage readings,

Some meters arent as sensative and wont give you the readings you are looking for its best to check with others meters to see if you get close to reading the same. My cheap radio shack meter just wouldnt do it.

dave

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Yup, Ive found corroded connectors to be a problem many times, even in microwave ovens. You can bet there are thousands of microwave ovens tossed into landfills every year, as a result of bad connections. I

fought a stubborn oven for weeks, until I re-crimped the connectors. Works better than new ever since. We check continuity through all available connectors. We got a measurable voltage out of the p.u. coil a few days ago, then my buddy took it for a short ride, and it quit. Now, no voltage across the p.u. coil leads on both digital and analog meters. Thanks again for your info.

Dave, too.

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I would think that if the direct resistance of the pulsar coil reads within tolerance, the problem would not be with there, but maybe in the CDI, or the wiring in between.

When I explained the problem to my EE son, he suggested that the pickup coil may check out okay, during static tests, but fail when tested dynamically, due to an internal short. I just ordered a new p.u. coil, tonight, so Ill let you know in about a week, whether it works or not.

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That makes sense, alot of tests are not conclusive as to whether the part is good, even if it passes the test, but if you get a bad test you know it's bad. I also suppose if you have voltage at one end of the pickup, but it does not pass through, it is only logical to conclude that the pickup is bad, or the air gap is off (if it is even adjustable). Anyhow, good luck, I hope that solves your problem, a pulsar coil is much less expensive than a CDI.

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Yup, if the new p.u. coil doesnt (strange that the apostrophes dont work on this site????), then its on to the the CDI. We checked all of the combinations of resistances in the CDI, as per the values found in a table in a Clymer manual. Supposedly, those values were all in KΩ, but we measured many in MΩ, so dont know if Clymer is wrong, or if the CDI is toast. We are determined to get this sucker running. Ive learned that some electrolytic capacitors last only 8 - 10 years, so suspect this is what happens to CDIs. Ive brought power supplies in VCRs, etc. back to life by replacing the e-caps, so I know it works.

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