I took my kfx out and it didn't sound right. Besides bouncing off the rev limiter, does it sound right to you? Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Thanks for all of the helpful tips and ideas! I wish i could work on it right now but the weather isn't agreeing with me (Wish i had a nice garage lol). I'll definitely go at it once this rain lets up. I've messed with the carb so much but from what I've read off this forum i'll tear it down again and correct the air/fuel screw and also run seafoam afterwards. If it still runs the way it does right now ill correct the timing and checks the cams! I'll also check the belts while i'm at it.

Thank you sir! That seems to have worked. I did just that. I got the red high temp and put it back and started it up today and no leaks. My yard is too wet to play to much but let it run close to an hour. Again thanks!

thanks for the input! never heard this before. I would say that personally, I would check the easier stuff first- (spark, compression, starter, gas, carb(in that order)), My dad is a general contractor and he always says check the easiest thing first (say a bulb instead of the light fixture) an example: my bayou just randomly wouldnt start- checked spark, then compression, gas supply and made sure my valve was on, checked the kill switch, then replaced to sp. I was positive the sp wasnt the issue because it was maybe a few weeks old- I was wrong. I am not saying it isnt the cam on your bike, I just saying its a shame to pull the guts out of the head and it was a spark plug all along.. P.S. lol to see the whole story behind my bayou, look up my thread '97 Kawasaki Bayou Runs Bad'

Over head cams can be a higher reving engine, less vibration. Less valve floating at higher rpm. Fewer moving parts too. A lot of European racing engines use the overhead cam designs. They are long distance, high reving engines. Bad part is in (what is called interference engines). Valves and pistons can hit each other due to clearance problems if and when the chain or belts break. Things go boom faster when things fail. In block cams the gears use horsepower to drive them, The valves can and do float at high rpm, due to the long distance between the cam lobs and valves. Yes the springs do help close the valves but the pressure from the rockers, push rods and lifters has to be gone. The rocker arm nuts also have a slight tendency to back off (loosen) on in cam blocks after a while and require periodical adjusting in high reving engines. Over head cam is a better performance engine and smaller size over all too (lighter weight). The small engines world (lawn and garden) has started going to the cam in block over head valves with push rods configurations. Yes over rev one of them and you drop a push rod or bend it. Some have also gone to hydraulic lifters but have problems due to lack of oil changes. Thicker oil doesn't drain quick enough for the lifter and keeps the valve open too long. either shutting down the engine or bending rods. Over head cams use the head body for a bearing, trash and too thick oil will cause cams to seize real quick. So they went to in block cams. Even more bad news is they are adding more and more electrical stuff to these engines. Take you typical automotive engine cut it down to 2 cylinders and leave the rest. If you don't know how that stuff works it's best left alone. I don't want anyone to think I'm bragging but I do hold certs in both automotive and small engine repair. Have also raced automotive. My certs don't hang on the wall they are in a binder on a shelf.

I'd take that trip. I have enough room on my trailer for 2 quads and 2 bikes. It's crammed but I fit it. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Frank, thanks for you help it was starter.

Christian, Reading your description, I believe you are talking a fuel problem. If so, Part A is what has worked for me on many vehicles and tractors. I help a lot of older farmers and work on their old tractors and things that sit a lot. Also help locals with mechanical issues. Part A: Put some Seafoam in the fuel and run it. Old fuel with alcohol is hard on these carbs. The corrosion will partially plug up the circuits, especially the low speed one. If you are going to let it sit, turn off the fuel and run the carb out before storing. I used to own a 2000 500 also. I had it act similar one time when I forgot to empty the carb. I put in 1 gallon of fresh fuel with 6 ounces (rich) of seafoam and let it run at a high idle for almost an hour. I could hear the engine "clean up" every so often and the engine speed would raise. I would readjust the idle speed and let it keep running. I then put one more ounce of seafoam in the tank and filled it. I always put one ounce of seafoam in every tank after that and never had another problem. It would start in any weather almost faster than I could get my thumb of the switch. Part B: If it actually takes 1/4+ throttle to move and it is not because of the engine performance itself, Like those before, it could be the belt and or clutch have an issue. Wish you the best in getting your ride back together!

Maybe a road trip to VA in the near future if @JacobSlabach has some places to ride ! Go see some moonshine stills! 🤣

I would do the same as what @Frank Angerano said with the air screw. I have an 04 sportsman 500 that I had to replace the carb on so I will be working through the same issues of adjustments. as for not getting moving by 1/4 throttle, sounds like a worn out belt to me. mine does the same thing, but I dont worry with it cause it still runs good- just doesn't get moving as soon on the throttle. I also have a kawasaki bayou that has a Chinese carb on it and it would start cold or run right ever till I turned the air screw out about 2-3 turns past what the manual called for... runs flawless now, easy to start in any weather condition... It would also bog out if I had it pegged at high speeds- not now- the thing is a speed demon now.😎🤘

Yea I figured as much everything sounds different in the snow. Except for my wife, she always sounds the same for some reason year round !!! 🤔 😂 kidding! I think it’s just that steering. The traction you can get with the right tires. But then front wheels just have a mind of there own. Bike looks good. A little tight getting out next to them cars.......