From what I get, you are using fusion, a krypton paint for plastic, over the sherwin Williams bonding primer. The question is why use bonding primer if fusion is for plastic.

Iv heard that story more than once, happened to me more than once, this is what I do, transmissions can be tricky, double check to make sure everything is where it needs to be, don't forget the shims they are easy to loose they stick to other parts.Gear clusters have to be installed together with the shift fork, come down slowly with the other case half, wiggling it as you go down, should fall in place, make sure its not binding on the crank bearing, if its binding there you might need to put a little heat on bearing. Why did you have to split the case to replace top end?

LOL that would be a long ride !!LOL Ive got a huge pile of locust on my wood pile already !!

Thanks for the info. There's a couple of big auctions he hits I bet. Dealer and insurance company stuff. I have a buddy that flips stuff from a big Harley auction.

Yep still here , As an old timer on here I still check in from time to time !!

there is a guy on FB who had a Big Bear 350 he was parting out. Maybe he has the complete wiring harness if that would help you. Actually, he's got a web site that he parts out complete ATV's and motorcycles. I was amazed at what he has, but he doesn't sell them complete..only parts. Some looked new as well. see here: https://www.facebook.com/Powersport-Parts-LLC-108021950670725

Good Morning from Colorado !! Getting quad ready for a Sat ride !!

Love the mountains!

just finished wet sanding the fenders. Someone spraay painted them black, so i sprayed them with Easy Off oven cleaner, let it soak for about 15 minutes, then hosed off the black paint. Spots that didn't come off, i used 0000 steel wool, washed them with soap, then wet sanded them with 500 grit wet/dry sand paper. If i have time, i'll paint them this week. Fuel tank is black plastic, but, i'll paint that too so it all matches. Then i can put it all together

my mess....electrical components wrapped in plastic to protect from water when i washed it

All depends on participation. It’s usually people needing help and when they get it, they don’t return. Most of the “sharing” has moved to Facebook and other large social channels. New visitors/members are usually trying to solve an issue and don’t do much hanging out with other ATVers. Some do and answer peoples topics to help. We have some great members that have a wealth of knowledge.

Sounds like it’s overfished too soon. They really shouldn’t post, I agree. Let the fish get acclimated and hopefully reproduce.

Nothing a bit more JB Weld can't handle. In all seriousness though... I'm sorry.

Rick's off road in Kentucky. Went out to him, and he gave very fair prices. Said he also did a lot of ebay sales, so I'm sure if you contacted him he'd be willing to ship. Great guy, and had just about any quad/bike/etc you could think of and plenty of parts.

That's a nice brown man! Really wish my trout spot hadn't gone to hell. We keep trying to get them to not post the days they stock, and what do you know... A solid 2 weeks after they release them our spot is flooded, and there's no more fish out there. They don't even have a chance to bring back the populations we saw growing up.

I've used the chinameese carbs on small engines around the farm here with good results. On the more complex cv carbs seems hit or miss. I hope you're in the hit side of things.I'd personally rather rebuild the oem unit.

I put one on my suzuki when I got it, old one was flooding badly, which was also a generic, the plastic piece that screws into carb for choke cable was stripped out and triangle piece that covers the cables was missing, I ordered a generic that came with these pieces and the whole carb was cheaper than these two pieces OEM. Put it on and it ran perfectly, idle was a little slow so I adjusted it, and have had no problems yet. That was a couple of months ago, we will see how long it lasts.

So many great options, thank you all. I need to find a transfer case for a 2006 Yamaha Bruin 350 4x4 and I'm not having much luck.

Recycled Cycles has been here for Decades in Hayden Idaho. Theyre a fixture kind of like Blacksheep Sporting Goods. Not sure what they have at the moment, but you might give them a shot. http://recycledcyclesusa.com/

Have you checked your local market. I would recommend you to visit their store because it's good to physically examine and check the used before buying.

I get a lot of my parts from eBay and Facebook most of the atv yards here around Michigan sells their parts on Facebook marketplace

Hey, look, I'm new but a topic I know a lot about! I'm an ex ignition systems engineer, and I used to work as a test engineer at NGK here in the US. CDI is capacitive discharge ignition. This is a VERY complicated topic, but I seem to be pretty good at analogies. Quick background: an ignition coil is an inductive device, you apply voltage to one side of the coil, and you generate a magnetic field, when that field is collapsed very quickly, the secondary side of the coil will generate voltage that is proportional to the winding ratio on the primary and secondary (12volts in, 40,000volts out). Capacitance is created whenever you have two metal plates within close proximity of one another. For example, an ignition coil in the head (like in a coil on plug engine) creates capacitance because of the close proximity between the coil and the head. Capacitance can be added via special boxes or even some spark plugs (pulstar, if they are still around, but don't use them...) So, what does that mean for spark? Well, capacative discharge occurs very quickly over a very small amount of time (think nanoseconds), while inductive discharge occurs over a longer time, think microseconds. So, analogy time. Think of a coil as a gear reduction with a flywheel on it. The flywheel has a clutch that engages and disengages a water pump. When you apply a 12 RPM input to the gear reduction, you get 40,000RPM on the output, but it takes a while to spin up. So, when you start spinning the input and the flywheel is spinning, this is like the dwell time. Once the flywheel is spun up sufficiently, the clutch engages the water pump, and water starts to flow into a hose. At the end of the hose is a valve that will open at a certain pressure (this pressure changes, and is analogous to the required voltage to breakdown the spark gap). "There is some stretch in the hose, so when the valve opens there is a little bit more flow for a short time, once that's done, the pump keeps pumping until the flywheel runs down." The small stretch in the hose is like the capacitance of a standard ignition system. Once the valve is opened, the flywheel energy pumps out what it can, and then it's done. A CDI system is like adding a big pressure tank to the end of the hose. Once the pressure starts to build, more and more water is stored in the tank. Once the valve opens, a HUGE tremendous amount of water comes out, but for a very short time. Once the tank is done, the flywheel/pump still pumps a little bit out. So, the pressure tank is like capacitive discharge, and the flywheel pump is inductive discharge. So, what's the advantage? Well, the problem with a spark plug is something called quenching. When spark occurs, there is a very small flame kernel that is susceptible to quenching via nearby relatively cool metal, like the plug, the head, etc. Increasing ignitability reduces this quenching effect, which is actually the benefit of fine wire spark plugs. CDI helps this by providing a lot more energy in a very short time. Some CDI systems help even more by allowing more current on the primary side (hence the need for bigger wires). So anyway, that's what I can add, hopefully it helps.