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Trump has done more good for America than all the previous presidents since Ronald Regan. The Democratic party is a complete disgrace and embarrassment to America....

I figured you had probably cleaned them while apart ,just thought i would mention it. I usually start with the mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out from seated and adjust it until its running the best usually end up between 2 and 3 turns out. There is a tool that makes this easier Amazon sells several versions this is the one they recommend: https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Adjustment-Screwdriver-Motorcycle-Snowmobile/dp/B0BMTG92J7/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3UOBFMYX0H15D&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.TkpaU_CuOz3g4qBIsE0V3kMWh2LbJ8B--hRZEtRfDG6FSmQaIMAT_bCclJwC3rMnlvUzYzqd3kfdzlVuSTgdmgMuzklKuPmVjr-telZpWZ7oufONGBcix2tI-Rwb2C_ziP_sMT2DT7g3C8s0XdkPuIEQC912TUXCxnpQSyz9Bia0ezgQQFdmCzIAmYA24MGkC7qF6doGOWJFnrzv44euu_ifx_hXcVP3zMKQndygysd3y0i9_T3lYxf6MyfyiRp5xSS5B4n_kc2vi5fQWTjEfBK5ahg-fwd4528zGtdYGuw.dK0eY_t2Q-uOOZ41B5km52z_Z3V1Rmb8ydWD4HfRYh0&dib_tag=se&keywords=atv+adjusting+screwdriver&qid=1712854997&sprefix=atv+adjusting+screwdriver%2Caps%2C122&sr=8-2

I mostly use my quad for work, carrying myself and equipment to places on the land, and it's steep hilly land so a lot of it turns into a bit of an adventure, but when my sons were young we made a mud hole with a skid pan next to it and we had so much fun and so many laughs over there. Mud is good !

I just rebuilt a 96 Kodiak carb for a customer which is almost identical. Did you remove the plastic center block the slide glides on? There is an O-ring in there that gets deteriorated and won't allow the venturi pull the correct amount of fuel up from the jets. The All Balls Racing kit I used came with that O-ring. Also did you adjust the linkage arm so when the buttery starts to open it's lifting the slide at the same time?

You've got the slide needle "lifted to the top slot" ? I hope you mean you have the needle lifted, which would be with the clip in the lowest groove on the needle. You want the needle raised, not lowered.. Have you completely stripped and checked the carb right over, checked every jet and O ring is in there, and that they seem to be about the right sizes/in the right proportions between the fuel jet and it's corresponding air jet, that the float level is right, and that plenty of fuel is getting in through the float needle ? It will be either not getting enough fuel, or getting too much air.. If you put your hand across the back of the carb and only let a bit of air in between your fingers, will it rev up then ? The genuine carbs nearly always run better than any after=market one. I'd try fixing the old one. I've got the idle mixture screws out before by drilling them. First though, most of the screws are in a sort of aluminium tube, and it's often just a thin walled tube in part. Often at the front side of the screw's tube there is a thin walled bit. If you gently tap that bit, as much as is possible, with a punch and tiny hammer, before you drill the screw out, you can spread the metal and expand the hole slightly. Because the screw is only fat where the threads are, you can expand most of the metal that's around the threads. If you look at a mixture screw you'll see the threads only go down a certain way before the needle starts, and the spring is. That's the part that's seized and we can tap the tube around quite a bit of that. When/if you do drill, don't drill so deep that the drill hits the spring. Drill it first with a very tiny drill and stop if it's not exactly in the center. If it's off center, drill that shallow drilling out with a slightly larger drill so that you can then go back to the smaller drill again and drill at an angle with it to correct the centering. Once the tiny drill is getting across to the center position you enlarge the holes and then go back to the tiny one again. Keep doing that. By putting the tiny drill down a slightly larger hole you can realign things. Once you have a hole going down to the right depth and in the center then you drill it out to a size that will just leave a thin wall of threads and then use an easy-out or a screwdriver driven gently in to wind the weakened screw out. The screws are soft and drill easy. Once the center is out of them they loose their grip in the hole. Oh.. It normally only effects them at revs, but a blocked exhaust won't let it suck air in, and will give a lot of back pressure and so make it spit out the carb. There's a difference though between spitting back out the carb, and backfiring back out the carb. Spitting is back pressure, and backfiring is mainly caused by lean mixture.

Hey all, from SW Virginia here. I just picked up a '01 Bombardier Quest 650 on the cheap (seller couldn't get it to start). After correctly plumbing the fuel pump (new pump the prior owner installed but had the hoses going backwards lol) and cleaning the carb and fuel tank, repaired all the batt - and batt+ connections she lives!! I had swore to the wife unit I wouldn't be dragging another "project" home but I couldn't pass it up, it had new tires, new starter, new fuel pump and low hrs. All's good after she took it for a ride! 😆 It rides like a tank, very stable and tons of power.

Mine told me one day I dont know why a grown A## man needs 3 four wheelers, i thought about it for a couple of seconds and said you are right. Thats all they want is to be right.

"Just one more..." is the little white lie that keeps on giving.

GEORGIA!!

I sent you both a message. I think everyone’s point of view and suggestions are valuable. What’s not valuable is the extra banter that goes on from opposing views. All the banter does is increase the post count and discourage people from participating. The topic starter gets to pick the solution from posts made within the topic. That really should be it.

No that would be the Democratic supports who thinks crazy Joe is doing a wonderful job while running this country into the ground....

We ride the dunes in Oregon, including Florence, Winchester Bay, Coos Bay, Sand Lake, and the Christmas valley Sand dunes, as part of the Spartan Racing team. We travel frequently and record all of our riding adventures. You may find our films on YouTube at SpartanRacing43's Channel polaris rzr accessories. Check them out and let us know what you think. Please be honest if you don't like them and let us know. We also welcome any suggestions on how to make them better. Almost every weekend, we arrange outings and are constantly seeking for more individuals to ride with. You may visit the website at Localheroesnw.com to learn more about us and Local Heroes North West.

You have power to the relay, so now you need to check the relay is getting power to activated it, and that it has an earth on it's activation windings. If that side of the relay is operating, you need to check whether the power is getting from the relay to the pump, and that the pump has an earth. If you tell us what year and model this is I'll try to check in a manual how the pump and relay are actually wired. It's possible that the pump, or the relay, are powered and then get switched by connecting an earth to one or both of them.

Welcome everyone! Sorry for the community being down these last few days. We ran into server issues with some database corruption. It took a few days to restore everything.

Welcome, I thought it was only a month or so ago, But I guess its been longer than that. I joined. These are good people and will help where they can. Looking forward to reading some of you posts as well.

I had an old Yamaha 250 dirt bike that had the stator crap out. Dealer wanted $300 for it. I couldn't afford that, so I rewound it myself for about $20. I just bought a spool of the same diameter wire, made a jig to attach the part to my wife's sewing machine flywheel, began winding on wire to get the same fill. Worked fine. tom (cheap bastard)

Some models the nuts holding the sprocket on are on captive bolts, not studs. They look similar to what cars have for the wheel nuts. Are you sure they are studs ? If they are the captive bolts they might just knock out with a hammer and the new ones get drawn back in with a nut and some improvised spacer.

I use mostly for work also, dont care for the mud or see how much mud i can get on myself or the quad, i guess as iv gotten older i think, if i go through that mud it will be fun, but then i will be wet and muddy the rest of the day and when i get home i will have to clean all that mud off the quad. I do like riding through the woods, it so relaxing, and i do like riding to the creek getting off, fish for a while, generally on my own land i like the solitude of being the only one in the woods.

You are trying to get the screws out, the ones that hold the float bowl on ? Get an impact driver bit, it's called a No2, and tap it with a small hammer before you try turning it, that seats the driver and loosens the threads, then use the impact driver if you have one, or use a spanner on the bit while you push the bit down hard. If all else fails use channel lock pliers and get them out or cut a slot and use a conventional screwdriver. The screws are just a common metric thread. I'm pretty sure they will be four mill. An engineering supply or auto supply shop should have a plastic box with a range of metric bolts that will do the job, they sell them individually, or a bike shop will have some laying around probably. Four mill is the outside diameter, and what they get described as..

There are several overlapping transition points in those carbs. Under the butterfly when it's closed there are two holes in the venturi. One hole's exposed to full vacuum and the one nearer the air-cleaner end is at close to atmosphere when they are at a slow idle. Both holes are connected. At idle the idle jet and idle air jet supply fuel/air mix to the idle mixture screw. The screw controls how much of that fuel/air mix gets mixed with the other air, the air coming in through the discharge hole under the slide that's nearer the air cleaner. The highly diluted fuel/air mixture then gets discharged through the discharge hole nearer the engine. Then, as the slide rises a little,fuel starts to get drawn out of both those holes which reduces the amount of air being drawn in through the air cleaner side hole, the air that was diluting the idle mixture, and so it makes that mixture slightly richer, and discharges it out of both holes so it really does supply a heap more fuel. That's the first of the transition points. That transition from one discharge hole to two prevents stumbling just off idle. If we adjust the mixture with the slide too high then fuel is getting discharged through both holes and we have to wind the mixture screw in too far to compensate for that, which then causes a stumble/flat spot when we d try to open the throttle. It's important when adjusting the mixture that we have the slide down as far as possible. Somewhere in that system is probably where your problem lays. The other transition points are controlled by, first the slide cut away, and then the emulsion tube's holes and the capacity of fuel in the drilling the emulsion tube is in. It's important to clean the tiny holes in the emulsion tubes side, and the drilling it goes in if it has crud in it reducing it's capacity for fuel. The tiny holes in the emulsion tube start off being covered with fuel at low throttle settings and that fuel is drawn into the tube along with fuel from the main jet and discharged past the slide needle, but as the fuel consumption increases with throttle opening the drilling starts to empty and more of the tiny holes are exposed allowing air to be drawn through them diluting the mixture being discharged out past the slide needle. Eventually the main jet is controlling the amount of fuel being drawn in and the tiny holes are mixing air into that fuel so that the fuel being discharged past the slide needle is diluted. That process gives a rich mixture as we open the throttle, but then leans it after a short time when the drilling for the emulsion tube is emptied. The overall effect is similar to an accelerator pump. At 1/8 throttle it's probably not transitioning from one hole to two holes under the butterfly. Set the idle speed as low as it can be and keep adjusting the mixture till it's ticking over nice and slow on the idle speed screw, and at the best mixture point, neither too rich or too lean. Then use the idle speed screw to bring the idle speed up to what it's meant to be. Try not to adjust the idle mixture after that. If the jets and the slide cut-away is right, and the float level is right, the two discharge holes should work as an enrichener as you start to open the throttle.

You might check to make sure the throttle plate is going all the way back and not binding open slightly. Other than that good reasearch i have never tried using OEM parts in a chinese carb, really didnt think they would work.

I very rarely find one of these out of time, those engines are very resiliant and the valves rarely need adjusting, but this one is older and more than likely been rode hard and put up wet many times. Wrong plug will definately do it, i usually just put in the factory recommended plug. Then there is the carb most of the after market carbs that i have seen have 25 jets, which may be right since the aftermarket ones are slightly different, but the OEM one is 22.5 and the kits i have bought also have the 22.5, but it may not be correct in the aftermarket carb. I think i would keep working on the OEM carb, see if you can get it to factory specs. Aftermarket carbs seem to run lean right out of the box even with the 25 jet, so that might be some of your problem. I have noticed the same spitting and sputtering and not smoothe acceleration with them, that is why i have been working to get all of mine back on OEM carbs.

That sounds like a good plan definately the best way. I dont like using easyouts either and i think the smallest one would still be too big.

Yeah Gw's right about using the easy-out. If you drill it out too much the easy-out will spread the screw if it's tight and make things worse. Drill it a bit and then try the easy-out. Then if it doesn't turn drill it further. As long as you get the hole real well centered you can drill them fairly thin. I prefer to use an old fashioned egg-beater drill because it's slow and delicate drilling. Heat on the aluminium does help as well.. I've found the most effective part of it though is tapping the outside of that aluminium tube, and if you have thin lube down the hole, the tapping helps it work down the threads even if you don't spread the metal to enlarge the hole. Lube and tap it then drill it, then use an easy-out, or drive a small steel jewelers screwdriver into the hole.. The screwdriver won't spread the hole as much as the easy-out.. if you choose the right size drill and screwdriver.

Put the battery on a charger to charge it right up.. If it was left for a couple of months without a battery maintainer on it the charge on it could have been very low and a 20 minute charge from the quad's system would not likely bring it to anywhere near a full charge. I just did a search on your battery and the recommended battery for your quad. Your battery is woefully inadequate for that machine. It is rated for 120 cold cranking amps and likely only 9 amp hours reserve. Specs for your quad calls for a battery with 210 CCA and 14 Ah reserve. The little battery in your scrambler might start ok when the battery is full charged and in warm weather , but in the cold it is not likely going to do well even if fully charged.

There’s no problem with being liberal until you are a liberal that hates conservative values or vice versa. There’s a happy middle ground there, it’s when one side goes too far in either direction. Men in women’s sports…too far. Abortion not allowed no matter what…too far. The US is still governed by three branches. The president doesn’t have absolute power so to say he’s dangerous is a bit overzealous. Do his policies help Americans more than Biden’s? The answer is a clear yes. We’ve lived both choices and know what they each bring to the table. That’s what you’ll see this election.

Too funny, someone is misguiding you or you are just extreme left leaning for whatever reason. Keep believing that BS. If you base in simple economics, it was extremely better under Trump. Not a little, but a lot. Just ask any American to tally up what they pay for expenditures, like food, rent, cars, household necessities, taxes, gas… there’s no argument there unless you like paying more for things. Ask a business person which environment was more favorable. Ask my 401K, see what she says….I’m talking average Americans who work and don’t sit on the “system”.. Canada may have a bigger geography, but without the U.S. it would probably be target for Russia, and other countries as a land grab. Let’s be realistic, a strong U.S. is beneficial for Canadians. The best thing the dems can do is replace Biden and Harris asap. They’re going crazy because they can’t, so the talking points are supposed to fool everyone into believing we don’t have an issue going on here with old man Joe.

I don’t like bullies either but you need strength at the helm of the US presidency. Biden is very weak looking, to everyone. He’s frail, forgetful, and sad to watch. It’s just too hard to present him as competent. Everyone sees it, even his own party. No matter how you slice it, there is no arguing that Trump’s policies were better for the country, border, business (small and large) and most American wallets. I think a good portion of the country will vote on the border and economy. The border is a huge issue. The price of groceries is a huge issue. Price of living has gone up year over year. The Biden presidency has only raised the cost to live, allowed for more conflict in the world, and allowed for millions to come into the country undocumented. These are lasting effects on generations to come. It’s really a shame. They just focus on the wrong things. Biden needs to do something fast around the border and the cost of living, if he hopes to get re-elected.

I have been an avid motorcyclist since I was big enough to get on one. Street bikes were my forte. My doctor told me that due to an illness I had last winter that my bike riding days are done. This pretty much crushed me. A friend that was doing some work around the house( He was being paid ) heard me telling my wife how bad I was feeling. My wife said how about a trike ,would that be alright. said yeah anything I don't have to balance. My friend at this point stated he had an aty that was sitting for years and he would trade me for one of my guitars( I have 14 both electric and acoustic ) He stated it need work but I love a challenge so at the age of 78 I have my first quad.. After a carb and battery it started right up. I live on a dirt road so Told the wife to hope on and away we went. After just a short ride I am hooked.

I have come to this conclusion because if you look at the parts diagram the steering, a-arms, and knuckles are all the same part numbers even up to the foreman and rubicons the only difference is they’re is a “puck” instead of the cv axle as seen in this picture (it’s number 8 that I’m talking about)

I know this post is a couple months old, but have you had good luck with these carbs? I had bought a cheap one on Amazon awhile back for a mower, and it seemed ok for the short time I had it...🤷🏼‍♂️

It wasn't ATV related, it was related to a long running local television show here in Ohio (movie host) and I owned and operated the website/forum, eventually I stepped down and handed the keys away. It was quite a time consuming thing. lol...I used to get calls in the middle of the night from moderators because spammers were posting hundreds of threads. I had enough of that, was fun though.

On the slightly newer 250 models(88 one) it earths through the reverse switch then the neutral switch.. They are in series..

Welcome and good wrenching, sounds like a fun project. Its always interesting picking up where others left off.

It is a drum brake but it has a twin piston caliper, it sounds like the caliper is hanging up, i would pull it off lube it up a bit and see if that helps, the pistons may be sticking also, go ahead and check that out while you have it off, or you could replace it, thats what i did , they are fairly cheap, actually cheaper than the OEM kit, and i really didnt want to mess around rebuilding it.

Thanks guys, I do like this site. A lot of good information.

Buy a bigger bit of bare land somewhere cheap and get a caravan, build an illegal shed and start living. Practical skills go well in the country.. Good luck.

I'm more worried that China and America have just come to an agreement that climate change is real.. After everyone else has been saying it for years, and now they decide it's bad, and they need to do something.. I'm worried what the two of them will decide is needed to protect them from this "new" threat, and who's going to pay for their sudden concern..

Nothing in those petulant and irrational arguments change the fact that self mutilation does not change your gender. On a chemical level, your using suppresive drugs to . . change nothing. just prevent NATURAL biological processes from occuring. On a neurological level transgenderism fails as well. Been pretty well substantiated for quite awhile that men and women respond differently neurologically as well. Physically, just on the basis of skeletal structure alone no MALE body is capable of giving Natural Childbirth. STOP ranting insanity about promoting child abuse, self mutilation and scarification (on several levels) and empowering self destructive mental illnesses with all your talk about inclusivity and love. Love isnt rife with lies and Delusion. and for christ's sake quit trying to rationalize your twisted agenda before jesus whips off a Flip Flop and goes full temple trashing.

Hello everyone, it's been a while since I was here last. I finally found the correct used CDI on eBay for $315. After plugging it in, the 4-wheeler runs good again. Success! The only thing I don't understand is why the original CDI got burnt by connecting the battery terminal back 3 times while it was on. You would think it would blow a fuse first!

Newbi, if you’re going to ride atv’s sooner or later you’ll have to learn to work them. I’m no expert but will share what I know with you. Just ask and if I know am willing to help out. Welcome to the forum

Welcome all! Mehim, what is your budget? Newbie, I'd go get a battery tender from harbor freight or some place like that. It's not really meant to be a battery charger but it will slowly charge the battery. That will tell you if it's a parasitic draw or a different problem.

I'm jobles09, or Jay for short. New to the forum. I'm here cause I'm looking for wiring diagrams for my 1988 suzuki quadrunner 250 4x4. Got it from a friend. Didn't run when I got it. Has been flawless for over a year. Took it on the trail fist time, and it developed a short in the neutral / staring system. That's why I'm here. 4 wheeler is told to just got buy this info. Would like to find a service manual if it was still possible. Anyhow 👋. Cant wait to see the responses.

The stator is good, I checked that. I got the specs on line. I'm thinking maybe a broken wire , I will send some pictures this morning.

Morning. I'd missed that earlier post with the diagram. That washer and the one next to it work together to stop that gear 21 and 23 from moving length-ways. They are all cross cut gears though and there really isn't much end thrust; the washers are not doing much. I'm a bit dubious about them alone being the cause.. Once the gear is engaged, the roller should only be being touched if the gear had slid along the shaft a little, but it won't be pressing hard against it, or causing any chattering that could fatigue it.. I don't think anyway.. I'm presuming that the fork goes on part 20 ? I'd check that (20) fit on it's hub, part 21. I'd be checking it can't rock and allow that wear in the arch of the fork. I'd also check the fit of gear 22 on it's hub 23 looking for the same wear that would allow it to rock on it's bush 23. I think that either of those, if they could and were leaning slightly, as they would be to touch the fork, could and would chatter because of the three engaging dogs on part 20. If 20 was leaning over slightly, or gear 22 was leaning over slightly, then as the shaft and gears rotated the three dogs would force it, with some force, to keep trying to lean the other way once every 180 degrees of rotation. That force could chatter and break a roller..

Hello im From Poland i have Kawasaki ATV greetings

Tried . . . failed. got a heck of a shiner from it. I'm good at ducking and rolling into the unexpected but oops, ya git hit once in awhile anyway. That last large blow down top was the one that got me. If ya look close as Im walking back after picking up my helmet and cam, you can see stick poking up from the front of my bike. It (one in a million?) slid up in the adjustment slot on my gun (moose) fork and that whipped the tree top down under the visor. I thought I was going off until my lid went flying. Still a good ride and a good day. If Id been on the throttle it would have been bad. Ill take a chainsaw next time . . . once was enough.

From Canadia eh

Scarecrow, from Oklahoma, next year moving to my property in Eastern Arkansas to build an off grid homestead to live and teach my kids the old ways while I'm young enough to physically be able to do so. We have an 80's big red honda 3, an 03 honda rancher 350 4x4, and my newest project a kawasaki bayou 300 4x4 I'm trying to figure out.

Contrary to what so many conservative Americans think, the Chinese and Asians are just as capable of making quality parts as anyone, and North Americans are just as capable of making junk as the Chinese and other Asians. You want to try to bring some of the manufacturing back to the US? Bring back the tax regime of the'50's where companies and individuals were encouraged to invest and re-invest in the US rather than take their profits and run offshore to invest them while demanding more subsidies from the American taxpayers. Don't blame Asians for the tax and business decisions made at home.