davefrombc

It might also be the ignition switch itself. If it doesn't make contact , nothing works on most machines.

Everything I searched on came up with a 2000 model too. Searching from that site and it could be a Big Bear, Kodiak or Grizzly.. Yamaha , like all the quad makers makes several models with basically thee same parts but with slightly different badges and accessories. I saved that VIN search site . Hopefully it will help another sometime down the road. When I went to register my Honda , I had trouble with the VIN stamped on the frame .. it took some searching to fine the proper VIN because of the rust and poorly stamped digits. A little searching plus sanding and using a magnifying lass Iwas finally able to get the correct VIN. That's why I ask others to double check theirs. Nothing like 25 years worth of trail riding and corrosion to make some VINs hard to read. Bought my Honda 3 years ago and when the provincial gov't decided we needed to register them and get a tag for them before we could continue to ride the trails and logging roads . Took a lot of frustration to get the proper VIN to register it and get my tag. I don't mind helping others with similar problems .. That's one good thing about being retired . I have time to search and play on the pc . Now if the pensions just paid better .. LOL

Are you certain that vin is correct ? This is an European motorcycle/ atv parts supply company that has a list of Yamaha ATV's codes from 2000 to 2012. Your vin prefixes don't match anything they list .. They do offer to check a vin you send them and reply by e-mail.. They list neither the 5Y4 prefix nor the AH08W model code; so those may be different for North American models. You could try contacting them and see if they can help. https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/yamaha-parts/yamaha-model-prefix-atv-quad.aspx I also tried running your VIN on this site and it came up with an unknown http://www.atvstyle.com/atv-vin-number Other decoder sites also said they could not run that VIN

Just a stab in the dark because I don't know your quad or how that shift cable is mounted.... I take it the shift cable pulls on the shift arm for the forward gears and pushes for reverse. If this is the case, maybe there is a support bracket that is not connected, letting the cable and housing flex a bit (in effect shortening it) rather than pushing the arm fully into reverse.

Sticking float , restricted fuel line or plugged vent could all cause those symptoms . Start with checking for a restricted fuel line or plugged vent before tearing into the carb.

I'd check the float level in the carb for a start .. I'm not sure how that carb is jetted, but there is also a possibility there is a little water in the float bowl....just enough that when you agitate it it gets a sip of it and stumbles.. Beyond those guesses I would say it will be a search...loose wire somewhere in the ignition circuit?

Wide open and not in gear does not require anywhere near the fuel flow it does under load. I don't of any other reason it would die out the way you describe if it is not fuel starvation.

Sounds like fuel starvation. Something is restricting the fuel entering the carb. Some carbs have a screen on the carb's fuel inlet and it could be plugged or a pinched or otherwise restricted fuel line would be my guess. For whatever the fuel bowl isn't staying full under high demand.

OK.. I hope it is an easy fix once you find the problem. When you re-assemble things, use some anti-seize on the bolts to prevent them seizing again.

My guess is there is a shorted winding in the winch. Connecting the positive to each terminal without the negative connected should not have caused any current flow. You'll have to pull the motor off and disassemble it to see where the problem is.

Look on the winch motor .. If there are 3 wires on it , one will be the ground and the other two the forward and reverse terminals. Usually the directional terminals are across from one another while the ground terminal is separate. If there are only two terminals 180 degrees apart, Then the winch runs forward and reverse by switching the power and ground terminals. One terminal positive , the other negative, one direction; switch the terminals and motor runs in the opposite direction.

Make of winch ?.... Are there 3 wires going to the winch motor? . .If so , one ( usually black) would be the ground wire and the other two would be forward and reverse. You should be able to find the wiring diagram for your winch online. My guess would be to try 12 volts to each terminal ( red and Yellow) To see if the winch motor runs in either direction . To see if there is output from the solenoid , simply disconnect the wires from the winch motor and hook up a tester or light to each of the wires and try the solenoid switch in either direction. Power at either of the wire terminals would indicate a problem in the winch motor, and that is usually solved with a new set of brushes .

My only remaining guess is the starter circuit relay. If that isn't it, I'm beat. After you mentioned that disconnecting the kill switch nothing worked, I went back to the wiring diagram again. It doesn't show the configuration in the run state, so I can't guess what is open and closed. Obviously from what you said , the kill switch must be closed rather than open as I thought. I see the starter switch also connects to the igniter ( CDI box). If the starter circuit relay isn't the culprit, that would only leave the CDI box , and that is an expensive box to replace. It looks like it may be time to bite the bullet and see a Kawasaki mechanic . I've exhausted my guesses and without being able to physically get to it with a meter and service manual , I'm beat.

I'd gladly send you the snow we got, and there's more coming .. Normally here in the Fraser Valley we only get a dusting of snow a couple of times each winter. 2 inches paralyses them here ........ and we have over 2 feet of it and strong winds drifting it.

I seldom drink any hard stuff. Rye & 7 or Baccardis & 7 if offered at hr neighbours .. Not a fan of coke or Pepsi here .. I do like making home made liquors to see how close I can come to the liquor store offerings at considerable savings and a couple you don't see in the liquor stores here. The internet is fabulous for searching for recipes to try. My main beverage year round is plain black coffee. I enjoy a cold beer on a hot day, and much prefer our Canadian brands over the offerings from south of the line. Cold and sniffles times call for hot lemonade.. Spiking optional.

View File Yamaha yfm 250XL service manual 1998 Yamaha YFM 250XL service manual Submitter davefrombc Submitted 02/03/2017 Category Yamaha ATV

Start by making sure it has spark. A compression check would also be a good idea to make sure valves are not sticking open. If it seems to have good compression and spark, it's time to pull the carb off again and recheck everything. Make sure the gas is actually flowing from the tank to the carb. You can use some "Canned air" like they use to blow dust of of computer towers to blow through the passages in the carb. After cleaning the jets , start by setting the screws for the needle valves about 1 1/2 turns out from closed and adjust out or in from there about 1/8 to 1/4 turn if the motor tries to run, or starts and runs rough. Intermittent or no spark could be a problem with the stator, pickup coil, CDI box or ignition coil.

The kill switch should be open, not jumpered. .Disconnect the kill switch and do not join the wires together (no connection between wires or contacts, "open", connection between wires "closed") . The kill switch needs to be open for the motor to run.

Check the engine stop switch to see if it is stuck on, and also trace the wires. We may have misled you on the relay.. There are two of them. One is the starter circuit relay and the other is the starter relay itself.. If it is the relay , it will be the starter circuit relay. If that is the one you replaced, check the engine stop switch. According to the schematic it should be open when the engine is running. Closing it opens the ignition circuit and kills the engine. Holding in the start button feeds power to the ignition circuit until you release the button.

If it starts and revs fine for a second and then sputters , it is starving for fuel. You need to service the carb. There is a vacuum piston/ diaphragm on it that may be damaged or leaking. The high speed jet could be plugged or one of the passages . If it sat for a long time with old fuel in the carb, it is most likely badly gunked up.

View File 1987-1998 Suzuki Quad Runner/King Quad 250/300 Service Manual 1987-1998 Suzuki Quad Runner/King Quad 250/300 Service and Repair Manual Submitter davefrombc Submitted 01/28/2017 Category Suzuki ATV  

The problem could be a failing spark plug. Fires ok under idle but fails as soon as a load is put on it. If it is in the carb, you could try turning in the pilot screw to closed , then back it off 1 1/2 turns ad try it .. Try screwing the screw in and out from there as fartknocker suggests. Here is a link to a service manual that will also apply to your quad. https://www.quadcrazy.com/files/category/4-suzuki-atv/ Under the browse / download button at the top of the forum are links to service manuals and other useful info for members.

I can hold my own in a debate, but if someone wants to get nasty , I also know how to ignore them.. LOL.. Sledding , quad riding , bikes, trikes or boats... all are open to discussion for those that want to.... and the hunting and fishing that goes along with the riding... Anyway , can't fight if nobody comes in there to start one. Gotta admit . .Haven't been sledding since moving back to the coast from the north... Sleds don't run too well for long on wet grass...That's all we normally have here in winter.