davefrombc

My old Honda 300 FW has pulled some pretty impressive loads too. For the uses described, I would think a 250cc would be sufficient. I'm one of those that isn't over weight .. I'm just under height..... at 260 pounds I should be about 7'6" . I'm about a foot and a half short .....my quad takes it with no problem and still pulls a good load when called upon to do it .

Somehow the relay is getting voltage to stay locked on. Something in the circuit is feeding power to the relay even with the ignition turned off (some kind of feedback loop that you break by disconnecting the sensor). Try disconnecting your bypass and see if that fixes it. It also could be a problem with the relay itself. I can't help further beyond those suggestions .

Are you sure you wired the new sensor in properly? It sounds like it is latching on. There should be no power to it or the fan relay with the ignition turned off... I would suspect your bypass circuit that you wired in may be causing the problem.

The red wire for the switch (assuming it is just the wire to take power to the switch that activates the solenoid) can be connected to any wire that ignition switch is turned on, and off with the ignition switch.. You could connect it directly to the switched side of the ignition switch if it is easily accessible.

I'd tell the dealer where to place his $650 carburettor. You can buy one online for ~ $165 and a rebuild kit for your old one $16. both are offered with free shipping in the US. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/yamaha-bear-tracker-250-carburetor

Sounds to me a second tear down and cleaning of the carb is in order. Check the float height setting. Make sure it is not binding and the needle moves freely. It appears the motor is starving for gas. Check the idle jet setting, and its air jet for it for obstruction.I did a search on your carb and I see it has a vacuum operated secondary throttle control so a careful check of the diaphragm is in order too. Also check the carb to block connection for air leaks.

My guess is a loose or corroded connection or a bad ground. I would look at the ground connections first , then the main power wire . Tracing electrical problems are always "fun".

When the engine revs up the clutch on it closes up to grip the belt.. as the engine clutch closes more, the belt rides higher in the clutch. At the same time the driven clutch opens up, allowing the belt to ride lower in the groove to increase speed at the wheels. I don't see movement in the drive clutch at all, but I cannot point you to the problem with it since I don't know its internal mechanism.

I didn't see the clutch closing at all.. It should close when the motor revs up whether there is a belt there or not. At idle , the motor clutch is open and the driven is closed.. The belt is slack so the motor can run without driving the machine .. When the motor revs up, the clutch should close to grip the belt . Here is a youtube video of one in action.

It looks to me like the clutch on the motor is faulty.. As the motor revs up ,that clutch should close up and grab the belt.. I don't see the clutch closing up at all.

You can download a copy of the service manual here: http://www.mediafire.com/file/oj3p8rysdnv921n/1985-1995_Polaris_Atv_Service_Manual_Repair_All_Models.pdf You should be able to find the wiring diagram there. . I don't envy you the task of tracing the wiring on a butchered system. It is just over 100 MB ...a little more than 1 MB over the file size limit for posting to the Quad Crazy manual library.

It sounds like plugged jets in the carb to me. It's not uncommon if it was sitting for a long time with old gas in the carb. A disassembly,good cleaning and fresh gas should fix it.

Can't help at all on the depreciation rate . I think it depends a great deal on the brand and model, as well as the state / province you are in. Far too many factors come into play when looking at depreciation. I do know that the big names , Honda, Kawasaki , Yamaha and Polaris tend to have a slower rate of depreciation compared to lesser known rides. Honda likely has the lowest rate of depreciation of the lot. I do know, like cars and boats, you do see the highest depreciation from the time you take it off the showroom floor to the end of the first year. After that the rate of depreciation slowly lessens until they seem to float at approximately the same price for 10 years or more. Some models 20 years old and older sell for close to the same price they went for when 10 years old.

I can only go by what the banks and car lots as well as other places that offer high dollar loans offer here. Banks usually beat finance companies and dealers on rates . The system is different in the US so I cannot tell you which would be cheaper in your state. That's where you have to ask and compare when considering financing. I also can't give any insight on how long a term they would offer either in Canada or the US because I don't buy new or on credit. I'm rather old school in that respect .. If I can't pay it off when the bill comes in , I don't buy it . Visa doesn't like me because they only get their percentage from the sellers .. My balance is paid monthly so there is no interest charge. What's right for me isn't necessarily right for others.

Banks would most likely offer you a better interest rate on a loan than an ATV dealer would.. Either way, you should also take into consideration how much you would really be paying for the ATV.. $ 8k - 10K plus the interest on top of that ..... Work out what the final price could be .. Depending on the interest and term of the loan , you could conceivably end up paying nearly double the sticker price. My personal choice is to not do it. My recommendation would be to buy a good used machine and if you are a newby to ATV's learn to ride on it. See if you really like the sport and see yourself using it a lot more to justify the expense of a new one. If the answers are yes to both , then if you have kept your machine in good condition you can sell it for most likely nearly the same money you paid for it (sometimes more if you got a great deal to start with) and use it with what you've saved up for a newer machine rather than paid out on interest. Remember , like cars , the value of the machine drops considerably once you have taken possession of it .. If you don't really enjoy the ride or don't see yourself getting deeper into the sport , you are out considerable money if you sell the machine to someone else who would be getting a great bargain on a barely used machine.

From what I read in that post, yes. Back it off to allow the clutch to grab and hold. The screw should not be touching the clutch but should be within a couple of mm from it. I can only repeat what I read there since I do not own a Suzuki.. Hopefully a Suzuki owner will chime in to confirm or deny those instructions.

Here is a copy and paste of a response in another, Suzuki specific, forum. You may have actually loosened the clutch if you screwed the adjuster in rather than out. I hope AJ doesn't mind me using his picture for this because I borrowed it. I can't remember off the top of my head what size bolt that is, I think 17mm, but you remove that bolt and inside you will find a set screw with lock nut, which I think is a 12 or 13mm, Leave your transmission in first gear and go ahead and break the lock nut loose. I would go ahead and use the Phillips screw driver and completely remove the set screw and lock nut. You will not mess anything up doing this. Now after you remove it take the lock nut off of the set screw this will ensure that they both move freely and will make it easier to adjust. Once you have separated them go ahead and put the lock nut back on the set screw just a few threads and reinsert the assembly back into the hole only using your fingers tighten the set screw where you barely feel it touch the plates inside of the clutch. Now while holding the set screw with the screw driver use your fingers and snug the lock nut up. now double check the set screw and make sure it is just barely snug against the plates inside still and loosen it about an eighth of a turn and use a wrench to slightly tighten the lock nut against the set screw, once you are sure that they are somewhat locked together take a socket and snug it up really well to make sure it isn't gonna loosen up on you. Now replace the cover nut and try it out and see if it does the same thing or if it fixed it.

I'm with Ajmboy. From your description, I'd say they seem to be looking at padding their repair bill. Not starting and backfiring sounds much more a timing problem , either valve timing because of a slipped timing chain or an electrical timing problem.. A piston / rings problem would not cause the backfiring. $1000 for a rebore /rebuild?.. Sounds a bit much to me; but I'd rebuild the one you have rather than risk buying another used that may also have a hidden problem. At least with a rebuild , you know you have a good machine.. I'd check around with other quad / bike shops before authorizing that outfit to rebuild your machine though.

The segmented copper ring is called the "commutator". The assembly it is part of is the armature.. The most common reason for a starter not working or working intermittently is just as you described ..caused by fouling on the commutator or a stuck brush not making contact. When a starter doesn't spin , first check to see if there is power at the starter terminal when the starter button is pressed /key turned. If there is , then the most likely scenario is a brush / fouling problem. If there is no power to the starter , then it's time to check the rest of the circuit. Far too many starters have been scrapped when a simple cleaning would have fixed the problem. Occasionally you'll find the commutator badly worn or pitted, but usually the problem is a stuck brush or fouling.. Brushes wear, so they could be worn to the point they do not contact properly , but they are inexpensive and easy to replace.

I did some searching on this and it turns out a lot of people have similar problems with the King Quads from 2008 up to at least 2014.. Consensus is it is a caster problem that there are expensive after market A arms available to fix. Suzuki refuses to admit there is a problem with them. One far less expensive solution suggested is to add a steering stabilizer. Some have and said it helped considerably, but didn't entirely eliminate the over-light steering. I would suggest to all Suzuki owners with the problem to deluge them with complaints. Maybe those who have been injured because of the hairy steering could wake Suzuki up with a lawsuit because it seems to be a pretty common complaint that aftermarket knows about and offers solutions Suzuki should offer themselves.

I can't see a blown head gasket responsible for use of a quart of oil a day. The price was right on the quad though even if the engine was blown.. You might have an easy and relatively inexpensive fix , or you may need to find another engine .. Either way you can't lose on something for free. Tear it down and look.

There's no vacuum line to the petcock.. The line from it to the carb is the fuel line. 30 psi compression is likely one of 3 things ..... Either the valves are not set right and being held open slightly, the rings are shot / cylinder may also be scored or possibly the cam timing is way out so the valves are opening and closing at the wrong points in the cycle.

Samsung S4.. Does everything I want and capable of much more. I don't feel any incentive to get a newer one.

It could be many things .....a loose or corroded connection, broken wire, ignition switch, or a relay in the ignition circuit. Do the search for a bad connection before you start to dig deeper.. It's too often the simplest things that trip us up. Get a good multimeter and an electrical schematic of your quad and search it out.. I once had visions of a big troubleshooting session when my quad wouldn't start ... What it turned out to be was my kill switch .. It has a kill position on both sides of center.. It accidentally got switch on when I checked the headlight switch after adjusting the lamps. Always start with the KISS before going for the trickier solutions.

If you disassembled and reassembled the top end , my guess would be you had the timing set wrong as Ajmboy suggested.. Possibly set it TDC on exhaust instead of compression (180 degrees out) and on reassembly set it right . Glad to hear you got it working ok.