davefrombc

Great to learn you got it running ok.. I see with that picture it is the rotor itself that is keyed to the shaft and the gear behind bolts to it, so now I know why there was no mention of how it was timed.

2004 Bombardier DS650 service manual View File 2004 Bombardier Service Manual Submitter davefrombc Submitted 07/28/2017 Category Other ATV  

I found a service manual for the Bombardier DS650 and downloaded it to the "Other ATV" in the service manual list. I'm not impressed with it as far as the ignition system is concerned.. There is no timing mark for the magneto. There is nothing stating where the magnet and pickup coil should be positioned at TDC. Just the gap is mentioned.

Since it works as a magneto, I would say after. Ignition systems usually fire a few degrees before TDC to give maximum power. The higher the rpm, the earlier the spark . . Low rpm motors sometimes use a retarded spark for bottom end power . The magnet of the trigger pad should pass the pickup before the piston reaches TDC to produce the advanced spark. The manual should specify the timing , and I would suspect there should be a timing mark on the gears.

OK... That is not good .. Check to see if possibly the key on the rotor has sheared and allowed it to turn on the crankshaft. That would explain why the magnet is nowhere near the trigger coil at TDC compression. "Dumping the clutch" several times could have caused the motor to abruptly drop in RPM putting a lot of inertial torque on the rotor subsequently shearing the key ..

The only thing I could think of is it somehow firing on TDC exhaust rather than TDC on compression ? You seem to have eliminated everything else .

Since it is a new carb it should be ok, but check to be sure fuel is getting to it. Tank valve could be blocked or partially blocked.. crap could be in the line , if you have a fuel filter on it , check it is not plugged . For those working on cleaning carbs and jets : instead of using a piece of copper wire or a strand from cable , go to a welding supply store and buy a set of "tip cleaners" they will have various sized cleaner wires that fit pretty much every size orifice you'll find in the carbs. They're much more convenient and better for the job.

I did some searching on your backfire problem and dirty plug... I don't know your year , but according to other forums the Phoenix has an Electric Throttle Control (ETC) to protect against over revving. Here is what others had to say about it: It could be something as simple as the throttle cable stretching and getting loose. Newer Polaris machines with the wires going into the throttle control have what they call an ETC control. What it does is activate a rev limiter (the newer ones may cut the spark entirely) if for some reason the throttle sticks partially open. Sometimes if the throttle cable stretches enough, it will activate the ETC even if the throttle isn't stuck. Set the cable free play and see if this helps. Backfiring can also be caused by too rich fuel mix, as well as several other possibilities, but the most common cause for backfiring in a Polaris I found was excess throttle cable slack causing the ETC to activate. And one other's solution : I am/was getting backfire on my Phoenix 200. I have a 2006, and supposedly that issue was with 2005 and newer, but it happens on mine when releasing throttle from WO... After reading about the ETC, I open the cap to the ETC, and put a shim in there so the contactors don't touch, and BINGO it fixed the issue.... this has to be the cheapest fix I have ever done - 2 cents for a piece of plastic, and 5 minutes for labor. Engine purrs like a kitten, and no backfire on deceleration. I know this is a somewhat of a safety issue, because if the throttle breaks it's suppose make the contactors touch each other causing the engine to go idle speed, but I'll have to take the chance... I'd rather not having the backfire issue... can't b too good for the engine. Looking for info on the oil separator, brought up info that the crank case is vented to the air box. The oil separator is supposed to keep crankcase oil from being drawn into the air box. There is no pcv valve. They noted in the forums where it was discussed that if the crank case oil is a little too high oil could be drawn up. Is your air box excessively oily ?.. That could be part of the problem. From what I read , and your initial description, I'd look at the ETC if your machine has one. That sounds the most likely culprit for the backfire and carboned up plug .

Black plug usually means too rich, or misfiring / weak spark .. White and "glazed" too lean or too "hot" a heat range .. Normal plug should be greyish or a light tan colour.

It could be a component in the CDI box or the coil breaking down as it heats up .. Capacitors occasionally go bad .. There is a tester you can get to see if there is constant spark.. It is a goody that goes inline with the spark plug wire. It has a window you can see the spark flash in. Here is a picture of one version . Search Google for "spark tester for ignition systems" for vendors .

Make sure the quad is in neutral, check there is power to the ignition switch, then the process of elimination starts at the battery positive and ground and works through the circuit. You can quick check the starter by running 12 v directly to the terminal momentarily to see if it spins over ( assuming you at least have power to the lights and indicators) Usual problems are bad grounds, broken wires and corroded terminals, or defective relays. Check in that order. Electrical problems can sometimes be a real PIA to trace out .

If it is doing it without a load on it ( being driven) it could be a restriction in the fuel getting to the carb .Level dropping to the point it is running lean and then quits.. after a few seconds , enough fuel reaches the float bowl for it to run again for a short period.. If it is when being ridden, it might be a component in the ignition system breaking down as it heats up. Those are my two stab in the dark guesses.

Try rocking it a bit while trying to take it out of park.. It may be binding a bit if the quad is on a slight slope. I have a friend with a Kymco 700 and he has had to do that occasionally.

Just do a search on "94 timberwolf rear brake drum" .. There are a number of suppliers that come up, with several offering free shipping in the US. Prices vary a lot between suppliers .

Arctic Cat Prowler 2007 Service manual View File Service manual for the 2007 Arctic Cat Prowler Submitter davefrombc Submitted 07/19/2017 Category Arctic Cat ATV  

Searched for your manual and came up with this site. http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/ It has service manuals for all sorts of equipment , including the Arctic Cat 700. I'll add that manual to the list in QC's downloads folder.

It could be a corroded connection, the solenoid or the starter motor.. A quick way to check the starter motor is to run 12 volts directly to the motor terminal. If the motor spins over you know it is ok and you need to look elsewhere in the circuit.

View File 1985-90 Suzuki LT230 / 250 service manual Service manual for the Suzuki LT230 / LT250 1985-90 LT230GE LT-F230G LT230S LT250S Submitter davefrombc Submitted 07/12/2017 Category Suzuki ATV

Here is the link to download the service manual for the Suzuki LT230 /LT 250 service manual

Search on 2001 yamaha bit bear 400 cdi. There are a bunch of hits on e-bay, and other sites .. Here is an American company listing one .. Expensive ..... http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/yam/50038e92f870021f60a0c2fb/electrical-1

At the top of the page you'll see the heading "Browse" . Mouse over it and choose "Downloads" . In that folder you will see on the right a list of the manuals available. The Honda service manuals can be found under "Other" Here is the link to the file in that folder you are looking for. It covers both the 2 wheel drive TRX300 as well as the 4x4 TRX300FW models.

Any one of them could be the problem. That's where it comes to tracing circuits and wires until the problem is found . I can't point to any one thing and say "That's it" . All I can do is suggest places to look .