davefrombc

The year should be coded in the VIN number. Here is a site explaining VIN coding on ATVs. http://www.atvstyle.com/atv-vin-number As far as chasing down a fault, Start at the starter circuit .. Since you get a spark when you release the start button , it indicates to me there is no current to the ignition while the starter is activated , but there is when it is released. I would strongly suspect the starter relay or the wire from it that supplies ignition current when it is activated.

I would suspect a faulty relay or loose wire. I did a quick search and came up with a site with a pdf of the service manual to help you chase down faults. You can download it here : http://www.peirspeed.com/Cobrasales/docs/TGB Outback 425 - Service Manual.pdf

Are they bolts or studs? Usually such as exhaust manifolds or pipes in the case of single cylinder engines are connected using studs into the engine and nuts to secure the pipe to the exhaust .. Some penetrating oils will wick into nuts , studs or even blind bolts .. Warming the engine might help, but be careful of fire after spraying penetrating oil. If the stud nuts or bolts don't break loose fairly easily , try tightening a little and then loosening .. "rock" them a little without over torquing in either direction also helps break a stubborn bolt/ nut loose.

I found a thread on another forum describing much the same problem you have .. I'm copying and pasting his problem and solution : i just got a used 2003 Bombardier Quest 500 with the rotax motor and the po said it needed an oil change because the oil light was on and that was making it cut out. it cranks and idles great, runs good, good trans, steering, tires, etc, but when you give it gas, it cuts out like it has a rev limiter, but it does it in all gears. when i first crank it, it will rev all the way up, but after a minute it starts cutting out. if i cut it off and wait a few minutes, it will rev all the way up again for a minute or so. does anyone know what i can check? ive checked the intake boot, the carb is clean on the inside, ive changed the oil, the oil sending unit is bad, ive grounded out the wire so the light would go off and it still cuts out. what else can i do? thanks, chuck got it fixed! it was a ground wire pulled out of the MPEM box. now i need a good speedometer and the half round light section beside it, the guy i had fix it flipped it over and messed that stuff up. maybe someone is parting one out. it was a ground wire coming out of the box bolted to the air box. seems like it was black and grounded to the frame and pulled loose from the plug. I also saw it noted there is a rubber section connecting the carb to block. . Check there for vacuum leaks too. That's the best I can do to help. From other forums I gather the problem can also be from a rev limiter not reading a sensor right , or a bad sensor so maybe a check of the wires to the various sensors is also warranted.

It looks from those drawings the fuel pump is vacuum operated by the hose connected in the intake right at the cylinder block .. Could there be a vacuum leak there ? I have no idea on the green hose and have no pictures other than what you supplied to make any guesses from.

I'm not familiar with the setup on that carb and motor but I'd guess maybe the dangling hose fits the carb where the black cap is?....Just wondering if it fell off the original carb since you indicate it was open there rather than capped. Where does the connected end of the dangling hose connect? That might give you some clue ... I can only make guesses from the symptoms described and those symptoms point to a vacuum leak or blocked jet .. Since the carb is new , then I would guess a vacuum problem , but from where I can't say . Didn't find a free download of a service manual without joining an e pub site and my anti virus blocks connecting to ones I found. I'm leery of re-directs when searching for one item . There are some low cost ones though. If you do get a download of one , I'm sure the forum would appreciate you adding it to the library .

If you have to keep the choke on to get it to idle there is a problem with either with a vacuum leak, a jet plugged in the idle circuit or possibly the floats are set too low and not allowing the float bowl to fill to the proper level . Something is stopping it from drawing enough fuel, making it run lean at idle.. Take the carb apart . Blow our the passages in the carb. Blow them back, against normal flow .. "Canned air" such as that used to blow dust out of computers works well.. Check the jets , especially the main one for tiny holes plugged. You would need a fine wire to poke out any that won't clear with just an air blast. In many carbs there are tiny holes in the side near the bottom of the main jet that are easily missed when checking for blockages.

Does it start and run if you use a manual starter ? If not , it is likely a bad neutral switch or relay

Try adjusting the idle air screw. Also may be valves set a little too tight or if the timing chain is loose it may have skipped a tooth. I'd try the idle air adjustment first , then check for vacuum leaks. If that doesn't do it, pull the carb again and make sure all passages are clear and jets checked for tiny missed holes . Blow the passages out with "Canned air" for cleaning computers and electronics if you don't have access to a compressor. If the problem remains then you'll have to dig deeper and check valves and timing. Usually running fine at idle and crap revved up or the reverse indicates a fuel rich or lean burn problem.

Links to download the service manual in 2 parts were posted earlier in the forum . The second part of the manual unfortunately is too large to download to our service manual section so I'll repost the links here. For the complete manual download both parts. \ https://www.hightail.com/download/OGhkUXVqQ0M4aU94djlVag https://www.hightail.com/download/OGhkUXVwTlFqV0FUWThUQw

View File 2007-2014 Honda Rancher TRX420 Service Manual 2007-2014 Honda Rancher TRX420 Service Manual Submitter davefrombc Submitted 10/16/2017 Category Honda ATV

The TRX 420 Service manual is now in the downloads section.

It is starving for fuel when you open the throttle . . Pull the carb and clean it again. Check all the jets for blockages and blow out the passages. Make sure the float level is correct so the float bowl fills to the correct level. When cleaning the jets , make sure to look for some very small holes in the main jet tube that might have been missed in the last cleaning .. Running good all day and then going to crap tells me the carb most likely picked up some small dirt that was missed in the first cleaning and became mobile to pug a jet . It often happens in machines that have sat for a long time and have sediment missed in the bottom of the float bowl, or maybe got by the screen on the fuel valve .

I can't offer any advice on it , but there's a service manual available in the downloads section . Go to browse/downloads/ ATV service manuals ( and more) and then the Yamaha section.

Can Am Error codes View File Complete list of Can Am error codes. Submitter davefrombc Submitted 10/01/2017 Category Can-Am BRP ATV  

I found a complete list of Can Am error codes on another forum and saved it to our download section. Here's the instructions for pulling the codes. 1. Turn Ignition to Lights On position 2. Set speedometer to Engine Hours 3. Press and Hold selector button while switching the Hi-Lo beam 3 times in a row (quickly) 4. Diagnostics mode is activated now 5. Use selector button to go through codes 6. END will come up when all codes are displayed 7. To end mode hold the selector button for more than 2 seconds Here is the direct link to the error codes in the downloads section.

Pull the carb and clean it . It is quite possible when he rolled it some dirt that was in the float bowl was shaken loose and is now plugging a jet. Bogging, quitting when "nailing it" and backfires are symptoms of too lean or no fuel flow on open throttle.

My best guess would be to go with the stock jet. In the good ole days of carburetted cars those symptoms would point to a faulty acceleration pump. Sudden opening of the throttle causes a drop in vacuum and with it a momentary starving of fuel . That's where the accelerator pump gives it a shot to make up for that momentary starvation .. It could be with the larger than normal main jet and air screw opened up ( most of them work best around 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from seated ) you are getting that vacuum drop and fuel starvation when you suddenly open it up. By opening the throttle slowly you don't lose the vacuum and fuel delivery.

Here is a direct link to the Warrior service manual in the forums Download section .. The wiring is the same throughout the Warrior model years.

The two metal tabs with the holes are for mounting the coil . The only electrical connection is to the thin flat tab your black probe is touching .. The trigger from the CDI connects there. the spark coil earth side connection is through the mounting tabs .

Quite possibly some water laying in the bottom of the float bowl again.. Some carbs have a bowl drain so you don't need to remove the whole carb to drain it out. Very possible there was a little water left after the carb and tank cleaning .... or a little bit of rust/ crap came loose from somewhere and is blocking a jet.. I'd pull the carb and give it another blowing out and check jests and passages . No need for a new kit . .... just pull, clean and it'll likely be fine . If you don't have air available to blow out the carb passages, the "canned air" used for computer cleaning works well.

I can't give you any specific instructions on how to access it, but can give you a tip on breaking loose and removing the nut holding in on the shaft. Most try to do it with just putting the quad in gear to try to keep the shaft from turning , but the nut is usually so tight it turns anyway .. Put the chain on the sprocket and then clamp the chain so it holds the sprocket and keeps it from moving while you undo the nut .. There are videos on Youtube showing others changing the drive chain so you can see how it is done and adjusted. I didn't see one on changing the Polaris sprocket though . Search Youtube for changing the front drive sprocket on your machine . You may not get a full video of your machine but you will get videos of others being done . . I didn't see any mention using the chain to keep the shaft from turning when you go to remove the nut but it is a trick I've used many times removing sprockets on machines a lot bigger than a quad.. LOL... Wrap that chain around the sprocket and clamp it so the chain can't move and the nut will come off without the shaft moving.

It is likely labeled pilot air jet on your carb . Most carbs have only two adjustments . .The idle speed screw which is the throttle stop setting and the idle air ( pilot) mixture .