davefrombc

The only way I know of if it doesn't stay on TDC when you set it there is to physically jam the motor from turning over. I have no idea what is making it move unless it is the magnets in the magneto. If that is the case , the motor is still close enough to TDC to set the valves.

Doesn't sound right to me . I wonder if there is a fault in the stator that is making it produce much higher voltages than normal. Something is making the regulator sink a lot more power than it's designed for. Foolish question , but is the battery installed right way around? I can't see ignition working if it is backwards, but stranger things happen sometimes .

Did you accidentally over fill it or tilt it enough you got oil spill into the air filter through the crankcase breather tube ? I can't think of any other reason for that after an oil change with nothing else done .

Many UPS batteries are designed to have a long , low amperage draw down.. They do not usually have the high discharge ability of starting batteries and are unsuitable for quads or bikes. Make sure if you go that route to check the CCA rating on them if you go that route . The batteries in the larger units would likely be fine if their dimensions fit the battery box. I'd suggest getting one of the new Lithium ion jump starters to take in your emergency kit on your quad. They are compact, lightweight and have the power to boost a car. They're a bit pricey , but handy to have for power peace of mind if you're out alone . Many of those jump starters also have a 5 v outlet that can be used to recharge a cell phone or any other accessory that uses USB recharging or operation.

The alternator will power all the electronics and recharge the battery . Yes, cold weather will make the quad draw more on starting cold. The CCA is the Cold Cranking Amps rating. it is less than what is available when warm. I searched on the 3 batteries . and found that yes, there is a 4 AH difference rather than 2 as I assumed from their part numbers . You'll notice the OEM battery has a 16 in its part number, but actually an 18 AH rating while the cheaper one with the 16 in its id is actually only 14 AH The expensive one has a 20 , but only 18 AH rating .. Manufacturers playing confusing games with their part numbers. The BS in the battery id means it is a sealed battery. About the only difference to me in the AH capacity of the batteries is in how long it will crank over the engine before it is depleted. Once running , the alternator will run the quad and recharge the battery. No quad maker makes one where the charging capacity is less than the power draw. To me , the only rating that makes much difference is the CCA. That is the one that determines whether it will start the motor in the cold

If the batteries are physically the same size , the loss of 2 Ah shouldn't make a lot of difference. More important is the cranking amps available for starting.

About all I can suggest is to make sure you're getting spark, ( you could try a new spark plug) and fuel. If it's getting both it should run. If there's no spark , you'll have to start checking ignition components . When you checked the carb out , did you turn the idle air screw in and out ? . It should be set about 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from lightly seated to start.. After it is running you can tweak it for best performance , not bogging or stumbling when you go to accelerate from idle.

The working of that sprag should have nothing to do with the speed the starter turns the motor over unless it was actually slipping when it should be bound tight. If the motor is slow to turn over on the starter it is more likely either a low battery , starter dragging or possibly just tight rings in the new cylinders .Are the piston and ring clearances on spec?.. It's possible for some binding there if they are too tight in the bore.

I can't if that is normal or not. It may be wearing a bit and binding but the only way I know of it to actually have it start the motor. When the motor starts the sprag should immediately release as the motor speed exceeds that of the starter gear train. It's very possible it is worn enough to bind a bit when the motor doesn't start but that hurts nothing as long as it instantly releases on motor starting. The special "rollers " in the sprag are actually either a figure 8 shape or could be a sort of half round shape so in the one direction turned by the starter they twist a bit in their slots and bind the inner and outer parts together . . When the outer part ( connected to the motor) spins faster than the inner, those rollers lay down and release the bind between them. There are tutorials on Youtube that explain how a sprag works much better than I can

The one way bearing is actually a sprag clutch. . It should lock to allow the starter to turn over the motor in one direction and free wheel in the other. This is so when you start the motor the revs of the motor do not feed back through the gearing and spin the starter to destruction. The starter should lock the sprag to turn the motor over. If it doesn't the stater will just spin free and nothing else happen. From your description the sprag is working properly. If it seizes when the motor starts it will spin the starter as I mentioned.. When the motor is running the sprag clutch is disengaged. The outer part spins with the motor. the inner part is where the special rollers are that lock the clutch when the starter is spinning the motor over.

Easiest way to clear it is to pull the plug and spin it over for a few seconds. The petcock failing open shouldn't make it flood though.The float in the carb is what limits the fuel flow into and the level in the carb. If the needle sticks slightly open then the vehicle will flood. . You should be able to leave the petcock open for days on end without it flooding. You may have a float or bad needle and seat for the float,or something as simple as a small piece of crud stopping the float needle from fully closing off the fuel when the carb is full.

With the fuel shut off, try removing the spark plug and spin it over for a few seconds to dry out the cylinder if it may have been flooded. Dry out the air filter. With the air filter off so you can see what's happening , try turning the fuel on and starting the engine. It's possible the float had stuck allowing the carb to overfill and flood the motor out.

Sorry to say , but they look like they're toast. Putting a new axle in that will only last a short while , if at all, and will damage the new axle too.

I'd start by checking the wires between stator and regulator. Then try a known good regulator if you have access to one. Barring that , replace regulator first. Then if still no go, replace the stator.

My guess is there is a problem between the reverse switch that turns on your reverse light and the neutral safety switch. I think you might find that light grounding through the neutral safety switch and killing the engine. I would look for the wires shorted or possibly misconnected.

Sorry , I have no idea what parts are interchangeable between carbs.

If the jets are the same size and thread as the originals they should work. If the motor is not modified, or the quad is nor being regularly driven in very high altitude areas, why change the jets? They don't wear out. All the carb should need is a good cleaning. If there is damage to the floats or obvious wear on the float needle and seat , they could be replaced as well as gaskets and any diaphragm the carb might use. Don't change the jet sizes . I'm sure the engineers that made the selection for that motor knew what they were doing choosing jet sizes. The only reason to change size would be for a modified motor that would demand more fuel as a result. I think more people have carb problems when they start fiddling with jet sizes than those that stay with stock on their machines.

It is really no more safe nor unsafe to lay a quad over than it is any other 4 wheeled vehicle .. The question is why? If the battery is removed, and fluids such as the coolant in liquid cooled machines oils in the motor and drive train are removed there shouldn't be a spillage problem . About the only reason I can see to lay one over would be to weld up cracks in the frame that laying one over would make for easier access. If it is just for storage, I'd say it is not a good idea at all. Laid over properly to protect the plastics and other exterior parts won't hurt anything though.

Glad you found the problem, and thanks for posting the solution. I never thought of the possibility of wires switched in the aftermarket parts. That's one of the hazards of trying to diagnose from afar. It's too bad you had to go through the expense and frustration finding the fault, but hopefully this old mind will remember to mention to check connectors for mismatched wiring next time someone posts up a similar problem.

The coil is a "transformer" in that it steps up the voltage from the system 12v to 10 to 30Kv .It can have voltage on one side with the other switched to ground by the points or electronic circuit. The coil fires by the circuit being broken. The collapsing magnetic field in the primary winding is what creates the voltage pulse in the secondary. Get an old car spark coil and connect it to a battery. Any DC voltage from 6 up will do. Nothing happens until you disconnect the ground. Then you get the spark. That's how all spark circuits work basically whether it is capacitor boosted electronic or a simple coil and breaker point system. I too suspect a broken wire or faulty component, and leaning more to a bad connection since so many new components have been tried.

My friend has a Kymco 700 and loves it.. Yes Kymco quality is right up there with the Japanese makes. In fact , if you dug into it , you'd find Kymco does a lot of manufacturing for other makes , both in parts and assemblies. Some junk does come out of China and other Asian countries, but also despite what American industry tries to tell everyone , some very high quality products do also. Kymco is a Taiwanese company , and their products take no quality back seat to anyone. Now , I can think of some American companies that can't make that claim about their products,f one in the quad manufacturing industry . . LOL. I don't know how common it is on newer ones, but up here among people I know , older Polarises have the nickname " Pull Hairis" for all the problems they have had .

Yes, it appears to me there should be voltage on the yellow /red with the ignition on. Your pickup coil sends pulses directly to your igniter. Looking at your diagram , I would say either the pickup coil is not pulsing for some reason or there is a problem with a broken wire in the igniter circuit, either on the hot side , or even between the igniter and the ground. It may be if the igniter is not grounding properly (corrosion, broken wire) , you may see voltages where they belong but either the igniter is faulty,or it cannot pulse properly because the ground for it is open.- I would che\ck all wires for breaks and the ground for break or connection corrosion.

I am not familiar with your ignition system, so I can only comment on the kill switch possibilities.. On my Honda and friends Suzuki, Kymco and Yamaha , all will turn over on the starter when the kill switch is active.. The kill switch merely stops the ignition pulse. Here's the thing.. Magnetos are shut off by grounding them .. It depends on how your system is wired whether the kill switch grounds out the magneto pulse, or whether it opens the circuit to the CDI to kill the ignition.. Bypassing the kill switch could in effect also kill the ignition if it uses grounded magneto to shut it off; you have to know if your kill switch is normally open ( circuit broken ) to stop the ignition, or normally closed ( continuity to ground) to kill the magneto.

Looks to me like the dealer didn't want to deal with a no big profit warranty job. The dealer had to have been alerted to the recall and required fix.

Even plastic floats have a height adjustment tab. It may be set too low and the carb bowl is not filling to the proper level. Opening the drain screw merely tells you the bowl is getting fuel, not if it is at the proper level or not .