davefrombc

I'd contact Polaris directly, and I suggest talking to another dealer. If that one is giving you the brush off like that, I'd definitely be dealing elsewhere.. Here is the Polaris website.. http://www.polaris.com/en-us/atv-quad/self-help Contact them . There's no way there isn't a warranty fix for a new machine with 4 hours on it .

I can't tell you the model or exact age, but it is definitely 2000 or newer. Before 2000 they did not have any instrument panel. I would guess between 2000 and 2003.

Lightly sand the bar it is stamped into and you might be able to make it out. On older Honda 4 wheel ATVs it is on the round crossbar in the front. Mine was hard to read ev3n after sanding the rust off but I found enough to use a chart of 1991 VINs to find mine listed. I was lucky there was only one letter unreadable. This site has a chart of all the Honda bike and quad model number and tear listings.. The 4trax entries are way down the list. https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/honda-parts/honda-model-prefix.aspx Your vin will start with 478TE. The next two or 3 numbers will identify the model series . The 1988 to 2000 models have a 150 there. Further on in the vin there will be a letter to identify the year. The 10th digit in a 17 digit V.I.N. or frame number represents the year of your ATV, motorcycle, or car. A = 1980 B = 1981 C = 1982 D = 1983 E = 1984 F = 1985 G = 1986 H = 1987 J = 1988 K = 1989 L = 1990 M = 1991 N = 1992 P = 1993 R = 1994 S = 1995 T = 1996 V = 1997 W = 1998 X = 1999 Y

It depends on the "cracks" and what is needed to "doctor it up". If it needs welding and re-drilling of the head stud hole , properly annealing afterward should leave it in good stead.. The real question is it it cheaper, and does the machine shop have a good reputation for warrantying their repairs.You could get that one repaired, but you might find a good replacement cheaper, and not worry about a repair failing.

There may be a wire crossed . If you get spark turning the key on and off but no other time , it seems to me there is a constant voltage going either to the circuit in the CDI box that triggers a spark pulse or directly to the spark coil. Spark coils work by the primary fields in it being charged by a current and then discharging through the secondary to send a high voltage shot to the spark plug.. If you have an old car spark coil you can see what I mean by connecting it to a battery. No spark is produced by it until you disconnect the power to it .. Then you get an instant spark. It is the breaking of the current to the coil that triggers the spark.

I'd recheck the carb.. My guess is the bogging is from an over rich mixture. Rich mixture is used when the engine is cold , but as it warms up it needs to be a bit leaner. Have you tried setting the main jet needle on a higher notch ( lower into the main jet) I searched on your carb and pix were the same as the Suzuki one . There is a video in the forum on how they work. The needle may have worn enough over the years that it is thinner thus passing more fuel on the setting it is at now .. Since it is a "rescue from the scrap yard" ATV, a previous owner may have swapped in a thinner needle from a smaller series of the carb. If you set the main jet needle lower in the bore , you may need to open the idle jet some to keep it from being too lean at idle. From your description I would say you've pretty much eliminated everything except a possible over rich carb setting. I can't think of anything else to blame it on..

Excellent video Frank. Thanks for sharing it. I downloaded the video and added it to the forums downloads in the "Other ATV files" section.

Measure the belt width and compare it to a new belt to know how much wear is on it .. 500 miles of hard pull will wear it more than easy riding. The weight it is carrying also affects its acceleration and top speed. My 260 pound butt on a buddies quad with the CVT transmission definitely is slower than it is with his 150 pounds.

Glad to be of a bit of help. Really all I did was offer opinions. Looks like you did a great job.. Enjoy riding your new to you rig.

Can't help you there Frank. I haven't had to do them on an ATV either. I would imagine they'd be like on a car engine, only smaller and not really hard to do if you can compress the springs to remove the keepers without having springs and keepers flying all around the room ( done that with a car head LOL ) Fun finding the pieces .

I'd likely go with the original piston and rings only because of cost , but if you can get new at a reasonable price that would be a good option .. You should break the glaze in the bore if you go new piston and rings so that the rings can seat in properly. Measure the bore to see if it is on spec before going that way though. Sorry , I can't make the choice for you. LOL... I'm a cheap retired old fart. Gotta weigh cost / benefit in all I do .

Unless you're a hard core racer or otherwise obsessed with speed , any quad from 200 CC on up will give you plenty of speed for trail riding. My old '91 Honda 300cc 4x4 quad will hit 40 mph on the flat and level . A 450 should easily get up to 50 or more and probably match the 700. About the only advantage the 700cc would have is in pulling power or for plowing heavy snow, at a higher cost for fuel in the bigger motor. For normal riding , the 450 will be more than enough

Hard for me to call from afar. Does the cylinder bore look good or is it showing visible wear?. Your photo of the piston looks like the piston and rings are in good shape. Depends on price and budget, but if the cylinder bore, piston and rings all look good, I'd tend to go with them .. any obvious excessive wear or scoring on them and I'd go for a re-bore , new piston and rings since you're that deep into the motor. The outer journal on the rocker shaft looks like it may have been put together without being tightened down properly and the subsequent loose bore allowed the outer journal of the rocker to slap around and slop it out . Can't say why the rocker developed the wavy pattern. Wild guess is it may possibly be because of the slopped out journal allowing the rocker to follow an uneven pattern on the cam. How does the cam look?

Try to get the drill as exactly on center as you can. If you can get hold of a reverse twist drill bit use it. If the stud comes loose while drilling a reverse twist bit would back it out on its own rather than running it in deeper.. I have a set of screw extractors wit a reverse twist drill bit on one end and a conical extractor on the other . If you can find a set of them , they are ideal for that job.

Glad you got it sorted out; and glad you let us all know what it was.. I'd have never thought of the voltage regulator myself. Something to remember next time someone has an odd "fuel" problem.

Sounds like the seller didn't have the stock wheels on the front. You can look up the rims and tires for your quad on this site and compare the specs listed there with what your front wheels actually are. That should tell you if that is the problem . http://www.mud-throwers.com/atv_wheel_chart

Leave the fronts at stock width. The engineers who designed the quad made them that width for a reason . Wider front spacing may be more stable for all out racing , but a pain to steer and handle in more normal riding. Friends who didn't listen and turned their wheels around to gain with very quickly went back to stock spacing after a couple of rides and tired arms.

CVT clutches drive on the sides of the belt. The clutches should be smooth or you'd get severe belt wear . As the belt wears it gets narrower and you would see glazing on the sides.. Evewntually when it gets narrow enough it in unable to ride up in the clutches properly and you lose speed and grip

Your revs going up and no drive power to the wheels was because your CVT transmission belt and clutches got wet. It doesn't take a lot of water entering the housing and wetting the belt to make it slip . CVT transmissions drive on the sides of the drive belt .. Since the clutches are smooth, they lose grip on the belt when wet ..As soon as the clutches and belt start drying they regain their grip. A worn belt will slip much quicker than a new one since it is narrower due to the wear on the sides as it is used. Definitely check all the fluids for water that may have entered through the various vents on the differentials, transmission and motor.

Haven't had to change one myself, but there should be something in the packaging to indicate which way it goes on if it is not obvious by design.

The idler gear is should only rotate in one direction since it is coupled with the starter clutch.From what you've said I'm afraid the clutch is hooped.

Check neutral safety switch, and any relays that are in the ignition circuit trace wires back from the CDI box to battery . Use a simple probe or a VOM meter to see where power first appears. Most likely culprit is the relay or wire last checked before power is found .

Check for a wire with a small bare spot shorting out somewhere in the ignition circuit . It won't be the starter because there is no power to it except when you are actually starting the machine. It obviously can't be a continuous short, just one that movement occasionally makes it connect and blow the fuse . It could happen immediately after changing the fuse , minutes , hours or even days apart if it is in a wire that only occasionally grounds out.

Some makes of quads and other vehicles will run without a battery, but not all . It depends on the make and model. Like cars and motorcycles, many newer quads are going all electronic so some of them won't run without the battery. I cannot say whether yours will or not .