davefrombc

With the fuel shut off, try removing the spark plug and spin it over for a few seconds to dry out the cylinder if it may have been flooded. Dry out the air filter. With the air filter off so you can see what's happening , try turning the fuel on and starting the engine. It's possible the float had stuck allowing the carb to overfill and flood the motor out.

Sorry to say , but they look like they're toast. Putting a new axle in that will only last a short while , if at all, and will damage the new axle too.

I'd start by checking the wires between stator and regulator. Then try a known good regulator if you have access to one. Barring that , replace regulator first. Then if still no go, replace the stator.

My guess is there is a problem between the reverse switch that turns on your reverse light and the neutral safety switch. I think you might find that light grounding through the neutral safety switch and killing the engine. I would look for the wires shorted or possibly misconnected.

Sorry , I have no idea what parts are interchangeable between carbs.

If the jets are the same size and thread as the originals they should work. If the motor is not modified, or the quad is nor being regularly driven in very high altitude areas, why change the jets? They don't wear out. All the carb should need is a good cleaning. If there is damage to the floats or obvious wear on the float needle and seat , they could be replaced as well as gaskets and any diaphragm the carb might use. Don't change the jet sizes . I'm sure the engineers that made the selection for that motor knew what they were doing choosing jet sizes. The only reason to change size would be for a modified motor that would demand more fuel as a result. I think more people have carb problems when they start fiddling with jet sizes than those that stay with stock on their machines.

It is really no more safe nor unsafe to lay a quad over than it is any other 4 wheeled vehicle .. The question is why? If the battery is removed, and fluids such as the coolant in liquid cooled machines oils in the motor and drive train are removed there shouldn't be a spillage problem . About the only reason I can see to lay one over would be to weld up cracks in the frame that laying one over would make for easier access. If it is just for storage, I'd say it is not a good idea at all. Laid over properly to protect the plastics and other exterior parts won't hurt anything though.

Glad you found the problem, and thanks for posting the solution. I never thought of the possibility of wires switched in the aftermarket parts. That's one of the hazards of trying to diagnose from afar. It's too bad you had to go through the expense and frustration finding the fault, but hopefully this old mind will remember to mention to check connectors for mismatched wiring next time someone posts up a similar problem.

The coil is a "transformer" in that it steps up the voltage from the system 12v to 10 to 30Kv .It can have voltage on one side with the other switched to ground by the points or electronic circuit. The coil fires by the circuit being broken. The collapsing magnetic field in the primary winding is what creates the voltage pulse in the secondary. Get an old car spark coil and connect it to a battery. Any DC voltage from 6 up will do. Nothing happens until you disconnect the ground. Then you get the spark. That's how all spark circuits work basically whether it is capacitor boosted electronic or a simple coil and breaker point system. I too suspect a broken wire or faulty component, and leaning more to a bad connection since so many new components have been tried.

My friend has a Kymco 700 and loves it.. Yes Kymco quality is right up there with the Japanese makes. In fact , if you dug into it , you'd find Kymco does a lot of manufacturing for other makes , both in parts and assemblies. Some junk does come out of China and other Asian countries, but also despite what American industry tries to tell everyone , some very high quality products do also. Kymco is a Taiwanese company , and their products take no quality back seat to anyone. Now , I can think of some American companies that can't make that claim about their products,f one in the quad manufacturing industry . . LOL. I don't know how common it is on newer ones, but up here among people I know , older Polarises have the nickname " Pull Hairis" for all the problems they have had .

Yes, it appears to me there should be voltage on the yellow /red with the ignition on. Your pickup coil sends pulses directly to your igniter. Looking at your diagram , I would say either the pickup coil is not pulsing for some reason or there is a problem with a broken wire in the igniter circuit, either on the hot side , or even between the igniter and the ground. It may be if the igniter is not grounding properly (corrosion, broken wire) , you may see voltages where they belong but either the igniter is faulty,or it cannot pulse properly because the ground for it is open.- I would che\ck all wires for breaks and the ground for break or connection corrosion.

I am not familiar with your ignition system, so I can only comment on the kill switch possibilities.. On my Honda and friends Suzuki, Kymco and Yamaha , all will turn over on the starter when the kill switch is active.. The kill switch merely stops the ignition pulse. Here's the thing.. Magnetos are shut off by grounding them .. It depends on how your system is wired whether the kill switch grounds out the magneto pulse, or whether it opens the circuit to the CDI to kill the ignition.. Bypassing the kill switch could in effect also kill the ignition if it uses grounded magneto to shut it off; you have to know if your kill switch is normally open ( circuit broken ) to stop the ignition, or normally closed ( continuity to ground) to kill the magneto.

Looks to me like the dealer didn't want to deal with a no big profit warranty job. The dealer had to have been alerted to the recall and required fix.

Even plastic floats have a height adjustment tab. It may be set too low and the carb bowl is not filling to the proper level. Opening the drain screw merely tells you the bowl is getting fuel, not if it is at the proper level or not .

I'd contact Polaris directly, and I suggest talking to another dealer. If that one is giving you the brush off like that, I'd definitely be dealing elsewhere.. Here is the Polaris website.. http://www.polaris.com/en-us/atv-quad/self-help Contact them . There's no way there isn't a warranty fix for a new machine with 4 hours on it .

I can't tell you the model or exact age, but it is definitely 2000 or newer. Before 2000 they did not have any instrument panel. I would guess between 2000 and 2003.

Lightly sand the bar it is stamped into and you might be able to make it out. On older Honda 4 wheel ATVs it is on the round crossbar in the front. Mine was hard to read ev3n after sanding the rust off but I found enough to use a chart of 1991 VINs to find mine listed. I was lucky there was only one letter unreadable. This site has a chart of all the Honda bike and quad model number and tear listings.. The 4trax entries are way down the list. https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/honda-parts/honda-model-prefix.aspx Your vin will start with 478TE. The next two or 3 numbers will identify the model series . The 1988 to 2000 models have a 150 there. Further on in the vin there will be a letter to identify the year. The 10th digit in a 17 digit V.I.N. or frame number represents the year of your ATV, motorcycle, or car. A = 1980 B = 1981 C = 1982 D = 1983 E = 1984 F = 1985 G = 1986 H = 1987 J = 1988 K = 1989 L = 1990 M = 1991 N = 1992 P = 1993 R = 1994 S = 1995 T = 1996 V = 1997 W = 1998 X = 1999 Y

It depends on the "cracks" and what is needed to "doctor it up". If it needs welding and re-drilling of the head stud hole , properly annealing afterward should leave it in good stead.. The real question is it it cheaper, and does the machine shop have a good reputation for warrantying their repairs.You could get that one repaired, but you might find a good replacement cheaper, and not worry about a repair failing.

There may be a wire crossed . If you get spark turning the key on and off but no other time , it seems to me there is a constant voltage going either to the circuit in the CDI box that triggers a spark pulse or directly to the spark coil. Spark coils work by the primary fields in it being charged by a current and then discharging through the secondary to send a high voltage shot to the spark plug.. If you have an old car spark coil you can see what I mean by connecting it to a battery. No spark is produced by it until you disconnect the power to it .. Then you get an instant spark. It is the breaking of the current to the coil that triggers the spark.

I'd recheck the carb.. My guess is the bogging is from an over rich mixture. Rich mixture is used when the engine is cold , but as it warms up it needs to be a bit leaner. Have you tried setting the main jet needle on a higher notch ( lower into the main jet) I searched on your carb and pix were the same as the Suzuki one . There is a video in the forum on how they work. The needle may have worn enough over the years that it is thinner thus passing more fuel on the setting it is at now .. Since it is a "rescue from the scrap yard" ATV, a previous owner may have swapped in a thinner needle from a smaller series of the carb. If you set the main jet needle lower in the bore , you may need to open the idle jet some to keep it from being too lean at idle. From your description I would say you've pretty much eliminated everything except a possible over rich carb setting. I can't think of anything else to blame it on..

Excellent video Frank. Thanks for sharing it. I downloaded the video and added it to the forums downloads in the "Other ATV files" section.

Measure the belt width and compare it to a new belt to know how much wear is on it .. 500 miles of hard pull will wear it more than easy riding. The weight it is carrying also affects its acceleration and top speed. My 260 pound butt on a buddies quad with the CVT transmission definitely is slower than it is with his 150 pounds.

Glad to be of a bit of help. Really all I did was offer opinions. Looks like you did a great job.. Enjoy riding your new to you rig.

Can't help you there Frank. I haven't had to do them on an ATV either. I would imagine they'd be like on a car engine, only smaller and not really hard to do if you can compress the springs to remove the keepers without having springs and keepers flying all around the room ( done that with a car head LOL ) Fun finding the pieces .