davefrombc

CVT clutches drive on the sides of the belt. The clutches should be smooth or you'd get severe belt wear . As the belt wears it gets narrower and you would see glazing on the sides.. Evewntually when it gets narrow enough it in unable to ride up in the clutches properly and you lose speed and grip

Your revs going up and no drive power to the wheels was because your CVT transmission belt and clutches got wet. It doesn't take a lot of water entering the housing and wetting the belt to make it slip . CVT transmissions drive on the sides of the drive belt .. Since the clutches are smooth, they lose grip on the belt when wet ..As soon as the clutches and belt start drying they regain their grip. A worn belt will slip much quicker than a new one since it is narrower due to the wear on the sides as it is used. Definitely check all the fluids for water that may have entered through the various vents on the differentials, transmission and motor.

Haven't had to change one myself, but there should be something in the packaging to indicate which way it goes on if it is not obvious by design.

The idler gear is should only rotate in one direction since it is coupled with the starter clutch.From what you've said I'm afraid the clutch is hooped.

Check neutral safety switch, and any relays that are in the ignition circuit trace wires back from the CDI box to battery . Use a simple probe or a VOM meter to see where power first appears. Most likely culprit is the relay or wire last checked before power is found .

Check for a wire with a small bare spot shorting out somewhere in the ignition circuit . It won't be the starter because there is no power to it except when you are actually starting the machine. It obviously can't be a continuous short, just one that movement occasionally makes it connect and blow the fuse . It could happen immediately after changing the fuse , minutes , hours or even days apart if it is in a wire that only occasionally grounds out.

Some makes of quads and other vehicles will run without a battery, but not all . It depends on the make and model. Like cars and motorcycles, many newer quads are going all electronic so some of them won't run without the battery. I cannot say whether yours will or not .

As long as the battery is fully charged the headlight isn't going to brighten when you rev it up.The voltage readings are right for a charging circuit.

Check to see if the enricher / choke is actually working or not. If it is a "butterfy" type choke plate, check to see if it is closing Maybe disconnected ?.. Other than that , I'm afraid it's a head scratcher you will have to hunt down .

Sorry , Can't help on the tach . I see I mistyped in last message It should have been 2 turns , not 3 , but turn it about 1/4 turn at a time. Turn it in or out a bit when you find the spot it starts ok and doesn't die when you open the throttle to fine tune that sweet spot . It should run after a couple of minutes warm up and not stumble when you "blip" the throttle .. If it does , it can be because it is too lean at idle ( air screw out too far ) or a problem with an accelerator circuit.. It's hard to cover bases with suggestions from afar, especially when not familiar with the specific carb(s) on various bikes. All I can do is point in directions to look for problems.

Choke off to start sounds like too lean. Try turning the screw in a bit at a time I think you'll find it better at about 3 turns out rather than the 3.5

Either a relay or possibly the neutral safety switch has failed, or something simple like you accidentally hit the kill switch . I have done that and took me a minute to realize that was all..... I had accidentally activated the kill switch. All that cursing for nothing LOL Hope that was your problem too....Easy fix . If not, fun time chasing down the electrical fault.

Backfire is most often lean.... My ride'em lawnmower does it every time I shut down the throttle and ignition motor dies with last gasp backfire after it has stopped. You could make your screw driver stay on the needle valve by cutting a small piece of plastic tubing that has an opening to fit over the screw heard and attaching it to the end of the screw driver.

Get a probe type tester to see which wire gets power when the ignition switch is turned to the first position . Manfacturers usually don't have a common code for wiring colours. Each model and make have their own codes listed in their service manuals. Without one you need testers and probes to trace wires if the connections aren't easily visible and traceable from end to end .

When the carb was worked on, did you make sure all the passages and jets were clear? There could be a partial plug in the idle air circuit or the needle could be deformed a bit requiring it be turned out farther than normal to get the right mixture .. 2 1/2 turns is an INITIAL setting. On every motor final setting may be less or more. . Most manuals say start at 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from LIGHTLY seated. More than one carb and needle have been damaged by someone turning the screw in too tightly. They usually still work , but settings on a damaged one could be far from what they should be. I'm not familiar with the access to the carb to say what would be the easiest way to access the idle air screw to adjust it , but there are screw drivers available with flexible shafts and cupped heads to keep them on the screw. They'd be a specialty item you might have fun tracking down. Could you possibly find extension shafts to use with an insert type screw driver , or a long screw driver that will allow you to be able to reach that screw from farther out of the frame where there is more room to turn it? One other thing , when you say 5 turns, is that five full rotations or five half rotations on a slotted screw?

It is most likely a fault in the switch. bypass the switch's ignition lead so you have power to the ignition and then turn the switch to the lights on position. If it continues to run then you know the switch is faulty.

When there are two bearings in an assembly with a spacer in between them, the spacer will be tightly clamped between them. A spacer between the inner races keeps the bearings from moving or the inner race from being pushed out of the bearing when the nut mounting the assembly is tightened.. The spacer between the bearings makes them in effect one piece transferring the clamping power of the nut through the races to the shoulder they mount against.

Does it turn over ok with the plug out? On my Honda, if I don't open the compression release I can't kick it over on the kick start .. I never thought but on your pull start there may be an automatic compression release that is not working. It's possible compression is stopping it. Only a suggestion since I'm not familiar with your Timberwolf.

If it is stopping at very close to the top it could possibly be a valve is stuck full open for some reason and the piston is hitting it. If you had the spark plug out something could have dropped in the hole and then the piston jams between it and the head.

Should be easy to find some hose the right diameter in an industrial or automotive supply if you can't come up with an OE hose. A lot easier replacing a straight one than one with some bends in it. You might even find some the right diameter in a plumbing supply.

Sounds like it is not getting the gas for some reason. Have you checked to be sure the gas line is not plugged? The new carb.... Is it new or just new to you ? It could also have a problem with plugged jets or stuck float / float needle blocking the gas.

Cell phone batteries can be recharged if you have a 12v outlet on your quad and a 12v to USB adapter and phone charger cord with you. Most cell phones with GPS do rely on a cell signal to work, but still having one with you and a GPS app is a lot better than not having one. for those who have a tablet or even a notebook sized PC that they take on a side by side or other larger ATV there are USB powered GPS receivers that work with several GPS programs available for them. One thing none of us has mentioned that is a good accessory to have with you is an FRS / GMRS transceiver. They're great for a group to keep in contact if they're spread out a bit, and for HAMs there are a lot of very inexpensive hand helds. Either could be handy to have in an emergency where a search is necessary.

Have a very Merry Christmas everyone . .Make it a Happy and Safe one. If you imbibe some Christmas cheer make that one for the road a taxi.

I bought myself a Garmin Montana 680 and the Backroad GPS maps for BC for Christmas .. Now all I have to do is learn how to use them The BackRoad Mapbooks program I have has extensive coverage of roads and trails throughout BC.. They have versions on micro SD cards covering nearly all of Canada. They also offer print versions of the map books. I don't know if there are US versions of the program I got, but if there is, I would recommend one because of their detail. There are several cell phone maps apps available and like most , if not all states there are also maps in varying detail that can be downloaded from government sites for free.

Plug kit and compressor here too. Along with a multi-driver screw drive, spark plug wrench, pliers, A home made set of ATV jumper cables, and a small set of common combination wrenches. I also have a tow strap and 12v to 5v USB plug and USB A to mini and micro USB cables to charge cell phones and accessories, and finally, a small LED flashlight. It sounds like a lot when listed but all those fit in the built in storage compartment in the rear. I also have a compact shovel and hatchet strapped to the front rack. I have a cheap saddle bag that fits over the gas tank to carry gloves, clear and sun glasses. I added two accessory sockets to my quad, one front and one rear to power my GPS and any other 12v accessory I might have with me on any outing. That is the basic, always on the quad, set up. Anything else I carry depends on the outing.