davefrombc

There is a clip that sets the depth the tapered main jet needle goes into the jet. If the needle is set too high (clip in a lower groove) it will run too rich. If it is in fact rich too rich ,try moving the clip up ne notch and try again . You may need to do it a couple of times to find the sweet spot.

It helps tremendously if you say what machine the carb is used on. A quick search on the net should bring up pictures of the carb in use on your machine and where the hose connects.

Try adjusting the air screw first .. The 2 1/4 setting is just the initial setting and could need some fine tuning .. You want it where it starts and idles ok and doesn't bog when you open the throttle. It's abit of fiddling between too rich and too lean . You may also need to adjust the height of the main fuel jet rod so it gets the right mixture at your altitude. try moving the clip up ( needle deeper in jet) if it seems to be bogging on too rich for your altitude .. Moving the clip down will richen the mixture on the main if it is too lean .

All their engines are similar but their transmissions and drive systems can have significant differences Some have gears and clutches , both manual and automatic and some use a belt drive and 2 variable clutches to create a Continuously Variable Transmission type of automatic.

. It is either splines have worn out on the pinion shaft,or possibly between the crown gear and output to the axles. . When you have it in 2WD, the rear differential is what moves your machine . The reason it moves in 4x4 is because the front differential is pulling the machine along. You'll have to take the rear drive apart to find just what is gone .

Sounds to me it is too lean . Try turning the idle air screw out a little more. You might also pull the carb apart again and check for tiny posts on the side of the the tube the main jet needle is in. One or more of those tiny orifices could be plugged. I is not starving for fuel instantly when you give it throttle , it isn't getting the right mixture. That points to a blockage of or setting > make sure there is no hole in the diaphragm of the carb and the vacuum line and any breathers are routed and connected properly .

Can't help you there . I've never had to service the timing chain on mine. If it is the timing chain itself that is the problem it has to be jumping on the sprockets .. Simple stretch won't change the timing that far . Are the sprocket teeth badly worn ?

My petcock started leaking on my old '91 Honda 300FW.. Took it apart and found the bowl/ water trap was corroded through. Cleaned the bowl,coated the inside with JB weld epoxy and leak cured. I'll pick up a new assembly when I'm able, but in the meantime that repaired one will likely last years more now the epoxy coating protects it from any corrosion by moisture settling in it. Iwon't be in a big hurry to get the new petcock.

Check the sprockets They should be keyed to the shafts and if there's a key missing the sprocket will slip on the shaft. Unless the chain is very slack it should not jump on the sprocket teeth. Those are the only two ways I can see it physically coming out of time .

Best to use the same size battery as OEM, brand doesn't really make much difference. I wouldn't be a bit surprised if you checked closely some of the American branded batteries are actually made offshore for them. Doesn't really matter whether your battery is made in America , Canada , China or anywhere else. Look for capacity and dimensions that fit.and you can also consider warranty terms. The batteries will all perform nearly identical. I am price loyal. Best price gets my nod when all else is equal.

Check the spark plug for fouling and go through the carb again . It may be more crud fouled the jets .. Also check for any loose connections in the wiring for the ignition circuit that might have occurred when you worked on it last time.

It sounds like fuel starvation. Possibly something in the fuel valve, line or carb restricting flow to the float bowl. .

That's a new one on me if it has both a mechanical and electronic shift. Sorry I couldn't be more help on that one.

Clicking sound is usually from adead battery or a bad connection battery to start solenoid . The clicking is the solenoid dropping in and out from insufficient voltage/current .

I don't know about your Kawasaki but my Honda has a separate on/off switch from the high/low switch, and they are all also separate from my ignition sqwitch.

The starter will not run if it is in gear. It it is not running when you are certain it is in neutral it becomes a chore of tracing out the circuit to see where the fault is.. It could be a dead battery, broken wire, bad ground, a faulty switch or relay, or the starter itself. To be sure the starter itself is ok, you could run 12v directly to it with a jumper cable to see if it spins over.

Neutral light could be burned out .. Mine is . The yellow buttons up and down may be for headlights. They have nothing to do with shifting gears. Neutral light is a convenience since it does let you know when you are in neutral, but if it doesn't light and your quad won't start in gear then the safety switch is working and either the light is burned out or the it doesn't get the signal to light from the switch. I don't worry about the light out on my quad.

You can download the owners manual for the 1994 Bayou 220 and the 1988 -2002 service manual from the forum's Downloads section. There are very likely some Youtube videos that may help you also.

You can check the ignition switch with a meter to see what it is doing , but I would suspect it is faulty. Possibly has corrosion in it. There is a possibility of a loose wire or connection , but I think you are right suspecting a new ignition switch is in order.

Reeds not seating properly could be a big reason for some of the loss of compression and very poor running . I wouldn't change the jets.. Just put in new reeds and rings.

You took out the oil filter plug. The screen goes in first, screen facing out . then the spring and finally the plug.. The other bolt you show is the right one .. Here is an excellent video of the drain and removal / replacement of the oil filter screen.

About all I can suggest is to read through the service manual to see what rebuilding the engine entails and whether you're comfortable tackling it. Have you tried starting it to see what the knock sounds like and where it appears to be coming from? The only way I know of to find out for certain what is causing the engine knock is to tear it down. From there, I would source out parts, price out a new or used engine and compare costs to decide which route you want to go.

Sorry , I couldn't say one way or another.. All I know is what I got from searches since I have no first hand knowledge of them myself. I would suspect from what I read there are no real differences, but as I say , I have no first hand experience with them. Since I am retired and have time to search , I don't mind trying to help others find information on their toys.

None that I found in searches .. Some sites did say the Linmax had the Suzuki motor. According to one , Suzuki sold them rights to build the Linmax copy of the earlier LT50 with the old suspension when Suzuki went to the new model with better suspension. Also supplied Linmax with engines , so if yours has the oil injection it is likely genuine Suzy engine in Linmax cloned frame. Onr thing not advertised by many auto and sport machines is many of their parts are actually jobber manufactured for them in Taiwan. You might buy a Polaris , Kawasaki, Yamaha quad , or some autos and find parts and accessories were actually made in Taiwan.. Kymco is one example of a company that builds their own quads, and parts for several other makes . It wouldn't surprise me if the Linmax maker also makes some parts for others .