davefrombc

By the same token of taking "freedoms" to extremes , we should remove all speed limits and traffic signs because we shouldn't interfere with peoples " freedom" to speed with reckless abandon or their "freedom" to speed through intersections with no consideration of others. We should be able to park anywhere we want and how we want. In any society there has to be some reasonable limits to "freedoms" for the good of all. Freedom is not total anarchy and total anarchy grants no-one any " freedoms". A crash because someone was exercising his "freedom" to ignore traffic rules and common sense is the ultimate denier of "freedom" for the victims maimed, paralyzed or killed by that fool. By the way , in many jurisdictions there is a ban on tinted windows of the drivers and front seat passengers windows and limits the the amount of tint in the windshield. Those limits to "freedoms" are there for the "safety" of LE officers so they can see the driver and front seat passenger . Admittedly it actually does little to protect them, but it is a law that few take as any assault on their "freedoms". I draw the law on all limits to "freedom" that are unreasonably extreme, and to definitions of "freedom" that are also taken to extremes.

You have the freedom to take risks with your own life and limbs but you should not have the freedom to risk other's. When you knowingly risk the safety of others, that is not freedom. That is stupidity and selfishness . No phone call is worth risking anyone's lives , no matter how safe you think you are using a handheld cell phone while driving or how much you want to risk your own life in the name of "Freedom" .

I have a 1991 TRX 300 FW I bought used about 5 years ago. So far , the only major mechanical repair it has needed is a new rear axle and wheel hubs. The splines wearing out on them is a fairly common problem for the older machines. The hubs nuts must be kept lubricated and tight. Mine wore to the point the left wheel spun freely on the axle. I didn't notice it because being full time 4x4, it wasn't obvious until I got in a situation where the right rear wheel was in the air and one wheel on the front had no traction. My winch saved the day, and a new rear axle and hubs made sure of no repeat of that problem. The only other repair ? New front brake shoes. Here is a link to the shop manual for your TRX 300.. It's in the sites download section.

Yes . tRump is the consummate circus barker. Tell the people what they want to hear and ignore the facts. I won't begin to try to argue universal health care with you except to say it is not free, nor does it cater to the "freeloaders" . We pay for our healthcare through our taxes and it covers everyone with no co-pays, exclusions ( for necessary healthcare, vanity surgeries are not covered)and no caps. Everyone is covered. Yes . "freeloaders" too, but nobody goes bankrupt because they had the misfortune to get sick. The ERW has done a fine job of poisoning peoples minds as far as universal health care goes . .You'd think good caring Christians and working Americans would want universal health care that covers everyone and at less cost than health care in the US costs now. Health care should not be something anyone should have to worry about; whether the have a "Cadillac " plan through their union or company plan or a minimum plan because that's all they can afford working for the less than best company, or the bum on the street that "good Christians" tend to ignore Christs teachings on the subject and look down on them. Not all of those bums are freeloaders by choice . Some are there because the US system of health care failed them , and others because they were unable to keep up with changing technology, the realities of today's workforce and the profit decisions of the 1%, and yes , the"War on drugs that has done more harm than good to the vulnerable while enriching those that profit by jailing them.

I won't begin to try to explain how CO2 and methane released, as well as deforestation, all from human activity contribute to the global warming we see now . Especially when you ignore the overwhelming evidence presented by the scientific community to believe the blabber of the few that deny the facts. When you look into the background of some of the deniers in the scientific community , you too often find they are closely associated with Big oil and other industries that are heavy producers of pollutants. I also can't convince you or present any better evidence than that shown by accident statistics involving hand held electronic device... Cell phones are the overwhelming examples. Yes, texting is by far the worst, but dialing and even just the holding and chatting distracts. Our laws here do make exception for the use of microphones. The catch is the microphone has to be just that .. The radio must be attached to the vehicle either permanently or in a holder, and the microphone must not be used to change frequencies or other functions other than push to talk. By the way , I don't know in your jurisdiction , but here you can be fined for distracted driving if you are seen to be eating , drinking coffee or in the case of the ladies doing some makeup maintenance ( maybe just not the ladies in today's world) and you weave or otherwise indicate your attention is not on the road. Do yourself a favor ( favour in our spelling) and read some from the mainstream studies presenting the evidence for the effects of the increased CO2 in the atmosphere that has been going on since the beginning of the industrial age and the other factors leading to the increase in global warming. I certainly can't begin to explain it properly . Stay away from the extremists and nut cases on both the right and the left. Universities trying to present logical arguments for social reforms such as universal health care and other "Socialist" ideas will always be branded as pumping out "Socialist" ideas by the Extreme Right Wing who have vested interests in keeping the US the only western industrialized nation not having universal health care. Ant time anyone presents arguments that could affect the profits of the 1% are going to be attacked by them , and what better way than to scream they're socialist or communist ideas and interfering with your "freedoms" . It has worked for the last century,although maybe not quite as well as it did during the Cold War .

Two things I disagree with you on ..1) Climate change accelerated by human activity is not BS. It is a proven fact. The storms and record breaking temperatures ( including the record cold and snows in the north-east the last couple of winters) . The floods and fires in various countries as the weather patterns and jet stream shift are a result of the change .. It may not be as apparent in parts of the southern States as it is in the north ( and the farther north you go the more apparent it is ). 2) The cell phone ban while driving is a good thing. Recent statistics everywhere cell phone users use their phones while driving have shown it is more dangerous than driving over .05 ( or .08). We have a total ban on any hand held electronics while driving here , but unfortunately still see to many cases where that damn phone in the hand and the inattention to driving it causes has resulted in collisions, from minor fender benders to fatalities. They allow hands free calling here where use of voice calling and blue tooth ear pieces are used, and even that has occasionally been cited for reduced attention. Fines for distracted driving via cell phone use are quite steep here , but still far too many are addicted to doing it. If you don't see many examples of cell phone related distracted driving and accidents where you are , you are in either a very lightly populated area for traffic or you just haven't been paying attention to just how much of it is going on. I have had too many close calls here by fools on their cell. Mine stays in my pocket while driving. I can call back to anyone who phones while I am behind the wheel, and I can pull over out of traffic and stop if I need to make a call. Yes , anti-Hillary sentiments also played a large part in tRump's vote count . Not so much because she was unqualified for the job or for any "illegal" things she and Bill have done in the past .. The biggest part of the anti-Hillary sentiments are a direct result of the GOP and their ERW specifically spending years of character assassination and trying to find something illegally done to pin on the Clintons, with spectacular lack of success despite millions spend doing so. The dislike for Hillary was (is) partly due to a perceived arrogance in her but largely to the years of lies and character assassination by a GOP that feared the Clintons and a Democratic win. Do I think the Dems could have fielded a better candidate with far less baggage ? you bet. I don't think Bernie would have been the one .. He is too far left for too many Americans fed with a constant barrage of "anti - socialist" propaganda. I take no pleasure in telling American that will listen "I told you so" . I'm still amazed that tRump ( or as some in another forum I'm in call him "IQ45" for his position on the Presidential succession and his stupidity seeming to match in numbers) still commands support by about 1/3 of Americans and far higher support among the GOP. The latter may be because of the fear of losing control if they actually voiced opposition to him and his cabinet of despicables. As a friend from tRumps great enemy,, Canada, I hope Mueller soon comes up with the evidence to move the great orange wonder from the White House to the Big House; but then he would be replaced by Pence. Sorry , he is a lot smarter politically, but I don't see him as much of an improvement for the good of America. I think the mid terms are going to make for some "interesting" developments in the political landscape down your way .

I think the sprag ( one way clutch) is being blamed for another problem. I can't tell what is making it stall after idling for a few minutes, but I very much doubt it is the sprag.. It is more likely a fuel problem . Is it running rich with a lot of carbon black building up on the spark plug?

I don't know just what the access to the starter is like on your machine , but mine was a tight squeeze in and out . Disconnect the battery before starting anything else . You'll have 2 or 3 mounting bolts and the power wire to disconnect to get the starter out .On mine it was just a matter of wiggling the starter out after it was disconnected. I also had to open up the gear train from the stareter to the start clutch on mine and slip a gear off the starter output shaft . You may have to do the same on yours to change or repair the starter. Download a copy of the shop manual and it should take you through the step by step procedure. You can download it through this link

$45 for a replacement is a great price. Rebuilding your starter is not difficult if it is just a matter of installing new brushes. Most kits have the brushes and brush plate assembly as a unit so you only have to remove the old assembly, clean the commutator and install the new brush assembly. You just undo the two bolts holding the starter together and slide the end cap off. The brush assembly is in that end cap. The housing holding the fields slides right off ,leaving the drive end cap on the shaft of the rotor. Clean the commutator, slide the housing back on and install the other end with the new brush assembly back on ( it takes a little fiddling to get the brushes on the commutator as you do it ). Line up the bolt holes and tighten them up. You have to make sure the bolt holes to mount the starter back on the motor and the power connector are oriented right because you can assemble the starter with them out of proper alignment so you can't connect the power wire back on in the quad. Removing and re-installing the starter is the hardest part of the whole job . I replaced the brush assembly in my Honda starter. The brush plate assembly looks identical to the one for your KLF

Have a very Happy and Safe 4th everyone.

I looked up the owners manual online for your quad , but I found no mention of an accessory socket in it. If it does have one it would likely be fused for between 10 and 15 amps. You could splice your new one into the wires to that socket to give you a second accessory socket and USB . That would give you the two sockets with a combined amp capacity of whatever the original is fused for. If there is no accessory socket at all I would suggest wiring one in direct to the battery , using14 gauge wire and a 10 or 15 amp inline fuse. To make it switchable on and off is a little more complicated . You would have to install a relay capable of handling the 15 amp draw and have it switched by the ignition switch. Depending on what you want the auxilliary socket for , I would suggest just wiring in a socket and fuse direct to the battery. That is the simplest installation. You can get adapters to give you a socket and USB port that would plug into your installed socket, and you could remove it when the USB is not needed , or if you want it mainly for the USB, then just get a USB adapter that plugs into the socket that you can remove when the quad is shut down.. Many of the USB adapters draw a very small current when plugged in even when no accessory is drawing power from them so over a period of a few days inactivity you could see one flatten the battery.

I've never had to deal with a failing CDI, but it is possible for one to become weak and intermittent as it heats up . You seem to have pretty much eliminated everything else . Hopefully you can borrow a good one to try before putting out the bucks for a new one . Friends of mine who had CDI problems had them fail completely when they went. Like anything electronic though, a component can get weak or out of spec and cause problems.

Have you had a chance to try another stock carb on it ?. It still sounds like a lean burn problem off idle.I'd look again for a clogged passage or a small missed drilled hole in one of the jet tubes . Make sure float level is right and no crud is coming from the tank to possibly restrict fuel flow .. Is the diaphragm good /new and working as it should? Is the spark plug new or known good ? Some plugs can be fine at idle but under the higher pressures when throttle is opened can cut out or be intermittent .

Check that quad over carefully for cracks in the frame.. There is one in the tube right at the weld after the right side of the serial number plate . Can't do much in finding a service manual , but you could try searching through Alibaba and see if you can come up with a service manual there . https://www.alibaba.com/showroom/zhejiang-atv.html

Clean the carb and look closely at it for plugged holes in the sides of the jet tubes . Blow out the passages in the carb too. Your description of the problem is classic lean running from fuel starvation caused by a plugged jet or passage .

I know the laws of Fla. are a lot different from those here in many things, but here ATVs used to be sold without vehicular registration ( titles). They changed that a couple of years ago, using the excuse it would cut down on theft, but I suspect it was more on the lines of more tax each time the ATV changes hands just as it is on other vehicles. New ones are now registered when sold and all old ones needed to be registered. There was no problem if you bought used from a dealer, or from a previous owner who had registered it and gave a bill of sale. Those of us who had ATVs never registered had to get a notary to certify a declaration that we legally owned the ATV. With that declaration and the serial number, we were able to get our DMV to register the ATV to us. From that point on they are treated like any other vehicle . Hopefully your DMV will do the same : accept a notarized declaration of ownership and register the ATV to you after clearing the serial number

You might be able to find some rubber cups the right size in automobile parts and just hone / clean up your old cylinders rather than try replacing them with new . Here is an ad on Amazon.com for rebuild kits for your cylinders .. Pricey at $39.95 a side though . https://www.amazon.com/Front-Wheel-Cylinder-Repair-OCP-06-502/dp/B00Z70L2LY There are also other advertisers on the Amazon.ca site listing them , but at US prices and of course insane shipping charges from the US. If you're in Canada , get a friend inthe US to order them for you and they get free shipping . Shouldn't cost a bundle for them to parcel post on to you; or if you can do down for a visit and pick them up there .

Sounds like you have it idling a little too lean . Try adjusting the idle air screw .

Just go directly to the starter terminal with jumper cables to see if the starter spins over .. If it does then it's time to trace the circuit out to find the problem. It could be in a relay, connection or broken wire. I'm assuming the battery is charged and there's no blown fuses .

OK . It won't be the rotor. I'd suspect the voltage regulator, or the stator if you were getting bad readings from it. Can you possibly borrow another voltage regulator to try ? Voltage regulators can fail low as well as high . It is a little easier changing it than the stator. I like to try to eliminate the easy before going for the harder . Is the ac voltage the same across all 3 windings on the stator? Are you using a true RMS reading voltmeter or one of the cheapie utility ones ? . The cheaper ones usually read low, and some can read considerably low especially if the ac has a varying wave form or cycle rate. Have you opened it up to get a Look at it and the pick up coil for the ignition. I don't know your particular machine model but at least on some machines the pickup coil for the ignition could come loose and the gap could be wrong .. Gap between it and the rotor should be about .010" Is the clip in the top notch on the main jet needle. If it isn't, try that to lean it out. Otherwise the only way to tune it for your altitude would be to rejet to a size or two down. Sorry but beyond those suggestions I can't be of more help.

Check the battery voltage . . Even a month old battery can fail or be dead if there was a drain on it while sitting .

When you checked the voltage at the battery, what readings did you get ? .. Engine off battery should read around 12.6 volts. . Engine running revved up a bit voltage should read 13.8 to 14 v. If it does , your alternator and regulator are fine. The running symptoms you describe sound more to me to be fuel related. If you are getting any smoke and carbon fouled spark plug it is running too rich , and if the plug is dry and very light brown to whitish it is likely too lean. Check the carb again for holes in the diaphragm and plugged jets . Check also for good fuel flow to the carb. There could be a restriction in the line or in the inlet needle not allowing the fuel bowl to stay full under full throttle demand. The rotor will not be the problem. Magnets do not lose their magnetism and unless the very unlikely occurrence of one coming loose there is really nothing else to make it fail electrically . Most often when there has been a problem with the ignition breaking down at higher revs, it has been voltage regulator problems others have found . If running voltage remains around 13.4 to 14v at the battery the regulator should be fine. There is an inline spark checker you can get to see if the spark plug is getting spark all the time. If there isn't one available from you suppliers you could order one online . `There is the possibility of the CDI box or ignition coil breaking down at higher rpm, but I'd thoroughly check out the fuel and carb before blaming other components. Something else to consider, some quads won't run right at off idle speeds if the air cleaner box is not closed and the filter is clean and in place .

OK. .Sounds like you need to pull the carb and clean it . .You likely have a plugged high speed circuit. either the main jet or passages . The idle air screw should be on the side of the carb rather than the bottom. It is definitely too lean under load off idle.. I believe that carb has a diaphragm that opens the main jet . Check it for holes too. Changing the setting on the idle air screw should have large effects on the quad running . .in fact , it turned in too much it should stall. That's why I suspect the screw you were turning was not the idle air .

That sounds to me like it is running too lean at idle. Try setting the idle down to normal with the choke in and then work from there. You may find you have to readjust the idle air screw a bit richer when you do that .. At speed I think you are losing power and fouling the plug because it is running way too rich when off idle and warm.

Try going up a notch on the main jet needle to lower it in the jet (lean out the main) Idle air needle has little effect on the mixture when off idle. Sounds like you're still running rich.