davefrombc

Is it possible the brake is dragging? Often a vehicle ( quad or car) will have less brake resistance in reverse and be able to move quite easy, but lock up in forward gears.. Can you roll the machine fairly easily when it is shut down and in neutral? If not , check for a frozen brake .

I can't help on the replacement bolt, but if you take the threaded part of the broken one to a place selling metric bolts you can match it up there. According to a chart I found a bolt with a 10 mm head is normally 6 mm diameter, and has a 1 mm thread pitch.

You can get slick guides used to center pilot holes for installing door hinges. Replace the right twist drill bit in the appropriate sized one with a left twist drill bit and use it to drill the broken bolt. The bit guide will center the drill bit and prevent you going off to the side and messing up the hole and bolt, and the left twist drill may extract the bolt as you drill. If it doesn't, you will have a centered hole in it to use a regular extractor on. Here is a link to the set I'm talking about offered on Amazon. The set would be handy for a lot of projects that require a well centered drilled hole . https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Migiwata+7Pcs+HSS+Adjustable+Self-centering+Door+and+Cabinet+Hinge+Hole+Opening+Drill+Bit+Set+

It may be getting too much air, running too lean to start .. Try replacing the air filter and other stock inlet air components and see it if starts and runs much better. Some quads need the air filter installed to run properly. Several members have run into that problem before.

You should be able to have that welded up and reinforced without too much problem. You just have to be sure to keep it all in alignment while doing it

The problem likely lies in the voltage regulator. I would try to borrow a known good, compatible one and try it on your machine first . If that does not fix it , it may be the stator.. Before tearing into the machine to try changing it out, I would download the service manual and follow the tests outlined in it .

with the engine running you should have between 13.5 and 14.5 volts DC at the battery terminals. If the lights are on or other accessories are in use the voltage will be a little lower but it shouldn't drop below about 12.5v . The alternator puts out about 25v 3 phase ac that the voltage regulator rectifies and limits to a max of 14.5v DC

There should be a "hook" on the spring that clips over the lower lever in your pix, and the other end of the spring likely just sits against the case. The longer part with the hook hooks over the lower lever arm next to the bent down tab of the upper lever. Here is a drawing of the assembly :

The edges of the U cup seal(s) go towards the outlet. The pressure in the system when you press the brake forces the lips of the cup out to hold the pressure. If it is backward the pressure pushes them in and bypasses the piston. That easily could be the problem . You wouldn't be the first to accidentally put them in backwards 😇

No, there should be no blow back into the reservoir when you put pressure on the pump , only on release should any air blow back, and only until the air is out of the pump. it sounds like the plunger on the master cylinder has a defective seal. There is no check valve on the master cylinder so when you release the brakes the wheel cylinders push the fluid on the lines back to the reservoir. If there was a check valve , once the brakes were applied they could not release. I think you got a defective master cylinder. There are videos on rebuilding them on Youtube and rebuild kits are not expensive.

You should.. I don't know if you're familiar with bleeding brakes , so I'll toss this in . When you pump, while the handle is down in the pumped position, close the brake bleeder vqalve so the master cylinder has to draw from the reservoir rather than drawing back from the line . Same goes when just at the master cylinder itself .. block the outlet with your thumb when releasing the brake handle . You should get pressurized fluid on each pump after the first .

There is very little volume per stroke on the master cylinder , so I would suggest just keep bleeding the system until all the air bubbles out. A faster way , but a lot more expensive is to buy a tool to do a reverse brake bleed. It's a handy tool if you need to vacuum test switches and air motors as well as bleed brakes on any of your vehicles. Here is one on Amazon.com: https://www.amazon.ca/Performance-Tool-W87030-Automotive-Bleeder/dp/B013VUZ7WG?th=1&psc=1&source=googleshopping&locale=en-CA&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_54ilvkye00_e

There's one in page 2 of the sites service manual list in the downloads section. You'll need 10 posts before you can download it . Here's a link and info you need to read before trying to download it. Basically , you need 10 posts without spamming the site to get them . This manual covers the 250 to the 400.

That o ring missing might be your problem. That might be the source of excess air entering the system.. Is the slide of the main jet all the way down at closed throttle ? if for some reason the throttle cable is holding it slightly open that could also be your problem.

Here is a ad for the carb where you can see the assembly of the choke mechanism.. I'd just drill a small hole on the choke lever you held with your finer and replace that with a lawnmower cable to the choke and mount it so you have a simple pull /push to operate the choke . If you have all the parts , it should be easy to reassemble it, otherwise McGyver it like I suggested. https://www.amazon.ca/Carburetor-HONDA-TRX200-1984-Wheeler/dp/B00KLKIZIS

Starter is toast. Those magnets are supposed to be permanently attached to the case.

Welcome to the forum.

That should work as a spark test too..... and with a brighter ,easier to see light. When you finally find the fault, please let everyone know just what it was . Every time someone posts a problem solved it helps the next one with similar trouble .

If that's the case there could be electrical problems causing it. Get a spark checker like this one and it'll tell you right away if the spark cuts out when you try to accelerate . https://www.amazon.com/JND-Fool-proof-Engine-Ignition-Tester/dp/B0042KJV9U/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XPM0TCGERPD45V7VN6DG

It is possible a weak spark or faulty plug that fails under increased pressure could cause the problem. I still think it is a lean burn problem though. It could be from a plugged passage or a tiny hole that you're missing in the jetting ..Check for a leak or crack allowing air to enter on the block side of the carb too. There is no rev limiter on your quad.. My own quad is a 1991 Honda Fourtrax 300 FW .. basically the same machine you have except it is full time 4 wheel drive. Here is a video on servicing the carb.

Clean the carb again. You have a classic "running lean" problem when you open the throttle . It could be a plugged passage or the tiny drilled holes in the main jet tube, the idle air screw maladjusted or possibly the float level set too low so the float bowl doesn't fill properly. There is a download of the service manual that would cover your machine in the forum's download section .

Can't be . it comes off the intake port of the block downstream of the carburettor. It is connected to the vacuum of the intake manifold .

There is a service manual for your Polaris in the download section . It is in multi-part pdf sections .A quick glance at some of them on the engine and carb didn't show that hose , but you might find it in a more thorough read through the complete manual. Could it be the impulse hose for the fuel pump since it ports off the intake on the engine side of the carb. If there is a separate pulse hose from the crankcase , you could try blocking that hose off and see how the engine runs. With it open the engine would be running very lean. That looks like a 90 degree connector to join to another hose leading possibly to a vacuum motor to operate something on the quad.

Welcome to the forum Mario. Ihaven't seen any Linhai quads in our markets but yours looks like a nice one and well equipped .

Eating or drinking a non-alcoholic beverage while driving in itself is not illegal , but if a cop sees you weaving or doing some other driving errors that can be attributed to distracted driving you could get a ticket for that. Cops here are exempted from some of the rules on fiddling with electronics while driving, and it has led to a few cases of them getting into accidents while using a cell phone or checking their on board computers. Use of a hand held microphone that is used as a microphone only is exempt from the no hand held electronics laws here. That covers CB's, police radios and HAM gear ..It is illegal to use the mike to tune the radio to a different channel or any other function than push to talk because it leads to the driver diverting his attention to driving. Yup, it's a fine line , but its there to allow use of communication gear not held and tuned in the hand. Yeah , in that campaign photo what could go wrong ?..... Other than him blowing a new navel into that lad . Your mid terms are going to make for some interesting watching this coming November. The Dems need to really work on getting the vote out and find some very good candidates to run in the red states to turn them as bright a shade of purple as they possibly can. Let tRump and the ERW carry on much longer they way they've been going and I can see a lot of Americans waking up one morning wondering "What the hell happened"? I'm afraid they're putting America and all her trading partners on a path to a repeat of 1929.