davefrombc

Phones only work when you are within cell range though.. Get a GPS and not only can it guide you but most of the ones I've seen and use also give your speed as a readout and operate anywhere you can see the sky.

That's why I suspect a plugged passage or the carb has both an idle air screw like most carbs , but may also have a fuel mix screw .. The ones I see illustrated like the one in the video I posted are not the thumbscrew type but look more like a regular plug screw ( for want of a better term )

Did you check the carb to see if it had both the air screw and the fuel screw? I can't see the air box being a problem unless either the main duct to atmospheric air is severely restricted or the air filter plugged. The amount of air a vent or vacuum line connected to the box would affect would be absolutely minimal . When you move the clip on the slide needle , you should only try one notch at a time up or down at a time from the original setting .

Double check your carb.. Some carbs have the idle air needle , but also have a fuel needle. Here is a video on a carb either the same or very similar to the constant velocity carb you have. If there is a fuel adjust valve , that is most likely the one you need to adjust. I didn't think of it because my carbs have only had the air bleed screws.

I would suggest to the ladies to leave their engagement rings at home when out riding . As others have mentioned it's too easy to lose the stone(s) out of engagement rings,whether you wear gloves or not. Nobody in their right mind wears rings in the mechanical and electrical trades while on the job , and nobody should wear them when doing anything recreationally where there is a chance of snagging or shorting out their ring. It's far too easy to end up with no ring......or finger. By all means , wear your rings socially but leave them home when out riding or camping.

I did a little searching on your carb. The third line on the carb is a vacuum line to create the pulses to drive the pump. I found a youtube video on rejetting your carb that you might want to watch .. He points out the fuel pump vacuum line connection in it .

There is a download of the service manual in the forum's downloads section .

Check plug for spark and the carb for fuel. Seafoam won't clean out a plugged jet if that turns out to be the problem. You'd have to take the carb off and clean it thoroughly. No spark is harder to chase down. First check the electrical harness for any loose or corroded/ broken connections.If still no go you'll need a service manual to get the specs on the components , or if you have access to compatible ones to swap out one at time to find the faulty one.

Just a bit aside of the VIN identification is this site .. It is a Honda motorcycle/ ATV parts company that has a list of all the models and years .. Quads are way down the list . https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/honda-parts/honda-model-prefix I also had a site saved that listed all the VINs for Quad models by year. It helped me identify the 2 characters of mine I couldn't read when I had to get mine to register it to license it when the province brought quad licensing in. Unfortunately whoever owned the site didn't keep it up so it expired along with a lot of very valuable information to old bike / quad owners and restorers.

I would use fine sandpaper rather than a wire wheel . .Honda serial numbers aren't very deeply stamped on the older machines and the metal of that crossbar is quite soft. A wire wheel might "smudge" the numbers. I learned that the hard way when I did mine .

Most of the more inexpensive lawnmowers are "flat head". Their valves are in the block and the motors are less efficient because of it , but they are cheaper to produce. I haven't pulled any of the newer utility overhead valve motors apart to see if they are push rod or overhead cam. They are more efficient and develop more power , but at greater expense to manufacture. ATVs have mostly overhead cams because they are more efficient and can easily be made to rev much higher because the push rods and rocker arms are eliminated. There is less mass to keep in reciprocal motion with overhead cam actuated valves. Less mass - easier to move - and less chance of valve float at higher RPMs. The motors can easily produce more power per cc in an overhead cam motor than in a push rod engine.

Cams are driven off the crankshaft, whether by gear or chain and sprockets. Push rods and rockers are driven off the cam and in turn open and close the valves ( in an overhead valve motor). In block cams ( used in valve in block motors, mostly lawn mower motors and other small engines) are geared to the crank and drive the valves directly or in the case of overhead valves ,by means of push rods and rocker arms. Overhead cam motors (used in the vast majority of ATVs ) are normally driven by a chain and sprockets. Overhead cams usually operate the valves by either a rocker or adjustable tappet between the cam and valve.

Check also for a weak return spring on the main jet needle diaphragm allowing the carb to creep open above idle , and make sure there is no air leak between the cab and intake . There could be a partially plugged jet making the carb run lean. That will make it rev high at idle and die when you open the throttle . Before digging deeper , check the idle air adjustment. Most carbs are set from about 3/4 to 1 1/2 turns out from gently seated. Try turning yours in or out about a 1/4 turn at a time to find the best spot for idle and no stall. It sounds like it is burning lean right now

I have news for you that I'm sure you know already .. There are no cheap hobbies or sports. I haven't spent nearly as much on my quad than I have on hunting and fishing gear . Even my tropical fish and indoor gardening likely cost me more than my quad if I took the time to list the costs LOL.

All my idled machines are kept on battery maintainers. They're a lot cheaper than buying batteries that get sulphated up from being run down and not recharged. It's especially true for my 3/4 ton truck which I only use every month or so. the "brain box" and accessories draw very little current, but it is constant and can draw the battery down enough to reduce its capacity over time. 500ma. maintainers are fine for quads and yard equipment/ tractors but for the larger batteries in vehicles a one or 2 amp unit is better. The B&D unit should serve you well.

Some trickle chargers I've found on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Battery-Charger-Maintainer-Motorcycle/dp/B014QXL438/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1548964541&sr=8-23&keywords=battery+maintainer+12+volt https://www.amazon.com/TOPAC-Automatic-Maintainer-Automotive-Motorcycle/dp/B079R1FQD3/ref=sr_1_85?ie=UTF8&qid=1548964745&sr=8-85&keywords=battery+maintainer+12+volt https://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-BM1S-Battery-Maintainer-Trickle/dp/B06XXG4YT2/ref=sr_1_111?ie=UTF8&qid=1548964807&sr=8-111&keywords=battery+maintainer+12+volt https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Battery-Charger-Maintainer-Motorcycle/dp/B014QXL438/ref=sr_1_129_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1548964899&sr=8-129-spons&keywords=battery+maintainer+12+volt&psc=1 These are all US prices... I had some $9.95 ( on sale) ones I got from the Canadian Princess Auto Supply that worked well on my portable jump starter, lawn tractor battery and my quad that all worked well. Unfortunately I have to replace them as they got hit when a windstorm caused my neutral line to the house to break and the voltage surge took them out along with a lot of expensive electronics that were on the side of my service that went high.

The manuals are pretty much generic for all models in the years covered. Motor sizes and cosmetics change , but mechanically and chassis are near identical. This one likely has what you need in it

Can't help on the axle info but I believe the line going to the top of the carb is the impulse line ( I misnamed it "vent" ) that makes the fuel pump work. As you found out the motor will run on gravity feed alone. More than on owner has bypassed the fuel pump and just run the fuel line directly from the fuel valve to the carb and blocked the vacuum impulse line from carb to fuel pump. There is a service manual for your quad available in the downloads section that should help you working on the front axles/ differential.

The reverse light switch (sensor) should read 0 ohms or close to it when it is closed to indicate the machine is in reverse. The lights brightening as you rev up the motor is normal as the voltage rises as the motor revs faster . Check the voltage at the battery when the motor is running It should be about 12.5 at idle and rising to a maximum of between 13.5 and 14.2v . If it is low it could also be the source of the rough running , although the rough running, bogging and backfire is usually from the motor running lean. It could be from a missed plugged passage or just the idle air mixture out of adjustment. Check for leakage of the high tension wire to the spark plug and try a new plug too as the spark plug could be intermittent .

OK.. Sorry I can't help more. The starter clutch should grab so hard that it stops if the motor doesn't turn over. That is normal . Spinning over without the motor turning over is not. Did you change the piston when you worked on the motor? It might be a little too big for the cylinder and binding before the motor warms up and the cylinder expands .

It sounds to me like the one way clutch for the starter is not grabbing properly. You should not hear the starter whining it the clutch was locking to turn the motor ovrr. With the plug out, the clutch holds just enough to turn the motor over slowly , but it is still slipping badly. Since you had the motor apart, you may have installed the clutch backwards. Try taking it out and turning it around to see if that solves the problem. If it doesn't, a new one way clutch ( sprag clutch) should fix your problem.

Voltage to the positive terminal of the starter while cranking should be between 10.5 and11.8 v while the motor is turning over. If it is less then either the battery is weak or there is possibly corrosion creating resistance and dropping the voltage to the starter. A fully charged battery should have between 12.6 and 13.2 volts

Yhat appears to be the correct brake handle for the right side ( master cylinder for front brakes. The left brake uses a cable to activate the rear brakes. From everything I found in searches , there is no cable attached to the front brake ( right handle) lever

I think everyone has their own valid opinion of which is the best brand. I like my Honda , and friends who have them also swear by them . Yamaha , Kawasaki and Suzuki also have their fans. Kymco, although much less well known also has a very good reputation among those that can get over their prejudices against "Chinese junk" . Kymco is Taiwanese, makes parts for a few high end car makers and as well as for some of the more name brand Japanese ATV builders. I can't speak for the reliability of some of the newer models of US/ Canadian ATV builders, but some of the older ones did not have a great reputation here . For example , among the riders I know the old Polarises were better known by the name " Pullhairis" for the troubles they had . I think the best ATV is the one that does the job for you, is liked by your riding circle of friends and is the one you can afford. Keep the maintenance up and any of todays machines will serve you well, although I too am wary of unknown brands that sell cheaply. None of the name brand , domestic or foreign should let you down whether the machine is 40 years old or new .. Maintenance means much ore than age .

You might have a vent line for the fuel pump blocked. It should prime by gravity feed. The bike should roll reasonably easy when in neutral and 2wd; a little harder if in 4wd. the centrifugal clutch automatic transmissions take a little throttle to engage, and a little more if the belt is worn but but it shouln't take a lot . It does sound like you have something dragging to make it so hard to roll. I'd look for dragging brakes before digging into anything else.