davefrombc

Pilot air jests are easy to miss. Some carbs hide their idle mix jets under a seal so most people using them don't mess with the mix. Those can present real head scratchers for those that need to clean and adjust them . When in doubt, it's always best to do a search on what you want to work on .. We can help in forums like this one, but unless one has actually dealt with a specific problem on a machine they own all most of us can offer is general information and "best guesses"

Look on the lower edge of the carb inlet. Search on "pilot air jet location on a Keihin Carb".. Pictures of it will show here . https://www.google.com/search?q=pilot+air+jet+location+on+a+keihin+carb&safe=active&client=firefox-b-d&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=mVseIhf2bf78cM%3A%2CDzSNNJiD7pz1HM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kTPGK0qiRjzAraLBfXsA0ZBZCxxmw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjp4JjIoc7jAhUQqp4KHSZPC1wQ9QEwAHoECAQQBg#imgrc=mVseIhf2bf78cM:

Check out this website . It will tell you how to decode a VIN The first numbers you show are the manufacturer and last are the specific vehicle identity . https://www.atvstyle.com/atv-vin-number

You can try bench testing the starter by connecting the negative clamp of a set of jumper cables to the starter case and touch the positive clamp to the post on the starter. Have a very good grip on the motor . It is powerful and it can torque out of your hand if it runs . Best to clamp it in a vice to do this test if you have one .

I take it this is on Mt. Washington, New Hampshire. We have a Mt. Washington here in B.C. Our ATVs all must have license plates ( tags) and carry off road insurance . Our mountain roads are nearly as nice as your Mt. Washington road. We have nothing like that ATV road here . Our riding is on logging and forestry roads. Most mountain roads on the B.C. coast range are much steeper and in a lot more rugged terrain. The riding in our interior and north is on more rounded land like you show there .

We have recycling fees on everything you buy that is mechanical or electric/ electronic now . They vary in amount according to the item . Those fees are not returnable but on such things that also have a deposit like beer, liquor and soda bottles they are refundable when the empty container is returned. Some places pay close to the recycling fee on batteries and depending on metal markets the amount they pay for a battery may exceed what was charged as a "recycling" fee. Just a side note .. I had a number of old car and UPS batteries here that I turned in a couple of weeks ago. It was worth the effort collecting them and turning them in . . I got $160 for the lot .

Dead batteries can be recycled. You cannot fix a battery that has gone bad either from sulphating from being left uncharged or from a shorted cell. I don't know about your state , but here recyclers buy dead batteries by the pound for their lead content. I think most dealers will take the dead battery when they sell you a new one , and either credit you for the return or at least dispose of it. Again, I imagine that varies state to state. Don't believe any ads you might see for "magic powders or liquids" to add to your failing battery to fix it .. All they do is separate you from some of your hard earned cash and do zero for the battery .

Ummmm Frank . It doesn't matter what size the battery is if the voltage is right. The pump will only draw the current it needs to run; no matter what the output current is available from the battery. If the pump itself is leaking it is either a gasket problem or other defect in the pump. Most quads depend on the battery somewhat to stabilize the voltages in the circuit. Without a battery some machines won't run and it is also possible for voltages to jump without the battery inline to help regulate them. Find the cause of the fuel pump leak first and then try running the quad with a battery installed, even if it is just one connected by jumper cables. I'm surprised the early Honda Fourtrax had a fuel pump.. My '91 Fourtrax 300FW uses gravity feed to the carb.

You mentioned it will start if pulled or if you bypass the starter circuit and jump from the battery to the starter.. That makes me suspicious of the neutral safety switch, or a relay connected to the starting circuit. First , do you have power through the key switch when you have it turned to start ? check that you have continuity through the neutral safety switch, and then through the starter relay. I'm sure you'll find the fault somewhere in that circuit. The no lights might be related or another problem to trace down after you get the start sorted out .

May the 4th be with you . Happy Independence Day . Have a very Happy, Fun and Safe one . May the 4th be with you . Happy Independence Day . Have a very Happy, Fun and Safe one .

Always start with the "little stuff" .

A trick we've often used to clean small tanks is to put some pebbles or marbles in them and give a good shaking to knock any rust, scale or other solids loose .. Shake out the rocks and crud. and have a look. If there's still build up in there, do it again. Finally rinse it out and thoroughly dry. It would be a challenge to cut a tank in half to clean and weld it back together. Unless you're very skilled and the tank isn't too thin you'll make nothing but a useless mess out of it, A welding shop would charge you more than the cost a new tank to do they job if you could even find one to take it on.

Are you sure the nut Holding it to the shaft is tight enough?. The key shouldn't shear if all is tight so there is no pressure on it. If loose it can work on the key and eventually shear it. It would take a pretty hard kick back to make it shear a key on a tight assembly, and it wouldn't run on q new key unless timing was reset if timing slipped .

Since I don't know just how the clutch is removed , I can only comment on the water trick. It sounds like the same trick used in the automotive trade for removing bushings in blind holes ( mainly the pilot bushing in the flywheel on cars with standard trannies) . Instead of water, use grease. no worry about it spilling out of the hole no matter what angle it is on.

I am also a licensed HAM that has been inactive for about 20 years. Fortunately for us, our licenses don't expire. Our certificate is our license. I'd sure hate to have to write our equivalent of your Extra license and Morse code again... LOL.. All our feds require is we notify them when we change addresses .. Got back interested in HAM when I got my quad and joined a 4 WD association here . . Lots of the members have their basic licenses. now it is super easy to get compared to 20 years ago. I have both handheld VHF/UHf gear as well as HF and multi-band mobile antennas. I just have to get my butt in gear and do some transceiver and antenna mounting. I haven't set up my base gear since I'm hoping to make a move soon. Things sure have changed since I was last active. More modes are available , gear is far more compact and capable. Here is a link to the CB sets I failed to post with my first recommendation. https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-PRO401HH-Professional-Handheld-Cancellation/dp/B00N43KM5S If you get back into HAM there are some very inexpensive Chinese made 2 meter/ 70Cm band handhelds (144mhz / 440mhz) available as well as some mobile units. FRS units are very low powered. The GMRS aren't much more powerful and are expensive to license from what I've been told so unless you're planning on staying very close range even the handheld CBs should outperform them. The Garmin GPS radios work on the GMRS frequencies.

Your best bet would likely be FRS/GMRS radios or maybe handheld CB sets. Uninden makes some 40 channel ones that are very reasonably priced and need no license. Depending on your and your son's interests you might consider getting your HAM licenses. It's a bit of work to get your basic licenses but it opens up a whole new world of communication to you.

Those connectors come in a couple of different gauges. The picture I used to show the connector is a light gauge one that would not pass sufficient power to run an ATV starter but a 10 gauge or larger one would . A ten gauge connector would directly run most ATV starters for brief starting attempts but definitely would overheat for longer draws. It is best to charge the dead battery for a few minutes with any jumper before trying to start the machine . Most newer ATVs have accessory sockets that take normal accessory plugs. Most older ones don't. I wired in a socket on both the front and back of my machine. Battery tenders can be plugged into the accessory socket if it is powered when the key is off . Some machine's accessory sockets are also off with the key. They cannot be used to jump start an ATV, but they can be used to charge the battery.

If the plan is to jump start another ATV because of a dead battery, you could make up a set of cables to plug into an accessory socket. A few minutes admiring the scenery while you rig runs above idle to put some charge into the dead battery is usually enough for the dead battery ATV to be started. You could wire in a 10 gauge polarized wire connector and then use the other end of the polarized pair to build your own jumper cables. 10 gauge wire should be heavy enough to start most ATVs if they don't have the starter turning over so long as to overheat the wires. I wouldn't wire anything in that would have an exposed positive connector. Battery side of the polarized connector is the one with the rubberized positive terminal . Jumper cable side uses the bare positive.

Get a Ham license ( Amateur radio operators). It take a bit of study to get the basic technician license but it is more than well worth it. Equipment is more expensive, but the license only costs whatever fee the examiner charges. With a ham license you are allowed a lot more power and you can go through repeaters on the VHF bands to have far more range than any expensive GMRS gives you .. Work at it and get higher class ham licensing and you can literally talk to hams all over the world when the HF bands are open. Gone are the Morse code requirements to get licensed now and the basic license requires minimal theory. I can't speak for the US license , but the basic Canadian one is simple enough some people are able to pass it with one weekends worth of instruction and study.

That can be said for both parties .. Look at the millions the GOP wasted trying to find something , anything to pin on the Clintons. At least the Mueller investigation did ferret out a lot of illegal activities by a lot of people in Trump's circle.. The full results of the investigation aren't known yet either . I must admit I'm surprised they did not find any direct collusion.

Those are some aggressive tires! I am definitely not a fan of the looks of those quads. Those tires would be useless here . No snow or sand to run them on and I am not a fan of mud.

I can't tell you specifically for that quad , but most use 75/90w ( synthetic) or an 80/90w hypoid gear oil. A few use 40w motor oil.. Take the fill plug out and check the smell of the oil. Gear oil has a distinctive smell as compared to engine oil. I would recommend going with the 75/90 synthetic if it is in fact gear oil in the differential.

I plumbed in two accessory sockets on my old Honda . .One on the front and one on the back. I used the marine ones with caps tp keep crud out when the sockets are not in use.

Fill the radiator with anti-freeze mix and cap it . Afterwards top up at the expansion tank. Any air left in the system after you've filled the radiator will be expelled as the motor heats up. Once the radiator is full and all air from having opened it to fill there should be no more bubbles coming from the radiator to the expansion tank. If it continues to bubble and level goes down you have a leaky head gasket. the steam in the exhaust depends on the moisture amount in it .. In very cold weather it may steam for a minute or two before clearing, but if you're getting a lot and you see the bubbling and fluid loss, then it's most likely a small leak in the head gasket.

The cooling system should be full of anti-freeze /water mix .. there is an expansion tank where you fill the system.. When the system is cold and full the level should be at the full mark on the expansion tank.. As it heats up the coolant expands and some is forced into the expansion tank.. Shut down and cool off and it is drawn back into the radiator.. If the expansion tank is too low or the radiator has been opened cold and air allowed in either by drawing fro the too low tank on cooling , or by opening the rad , air will bubble into the expansion tank on warming up. If all levels are right , there should be no air bubbling into the expansion tank after all the air allowed into the radiator has been released after one or two heat and cool cycles .. If bubbling still occurs after everything is normal and cycled a few times , you have a leak in the system. Most likely a head gasket leak. The "smoke" or steam in the exhaust is normal in cold weather , especially if it is wel l below the temperatures where you see your breath .. One on the products of fuel burning is water vapor. It condenses in the muffler when the engine cools and is boiled off as steam when it heats up. . If there is a lot , it could mean a slightly leaking head gasket .. The main indication of that is the level in the expansion tank going down below the add fairly quickly and constant bubbling into the expansion tank.