davefrombc

It sounds like it is starving for fuel.. I'd start by adjusting the idle air screw. Start at about 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from seated. and try in 1/4 turn adjustments out or in to see if that cures the idle and accelerate from idle problem .. also check for air ( vacuum) leaks. If that doesn't do it then I'd suggest taking the carb apart and recheck float height and carb jets and passages for blockages. . Even a brand new carb could hacve some manufacturing debris in it , and rebuilt could have a missed blockage or float height set wrong .

I did a search on your quad to find out what the diaphragm on the fuel valve was all about. .Found out it is for an automatic fuel shut off and seems to be problematic. Check this thread I found if your valve has that feature .. Says you can block the vacuum lines and run the quad with the valve in the Pri position. http://www.suzukiatvforums.com/forums/repair-maintenance/3970-vacuum-operated-fuel-tank-valve-petcock.html

Downloads ok with Firefox too, and opens with my Adobe Acrobat no problems. It should open without problem in any .pdf reader.

2003 Polaris Magnum 330 parts manual View File Parts manual with exploded views Submitter davefrombc Submitted 11/07/2017 Category Polaris ATV  

Couldn't find a free download of the service manual , but did find a parts manual that might help . I uploaded it to the Polaris section in Downloads

I would suspect the voltage regulator or the alternator. There's also the possibility the power steering is drawing too much power for some reason and the momentary voltage drop is causing the ignition or fuel injectors to cut out. When you have the motor revved up the alternator is putting out more power so you wouldn't get the large drop and cut out. I don't think it is the ECU.

The year should be coded in the VIN number. Here is a site explaining VIN coding on ATVs. http://www.atvstyle.com/atv-vin-number As far as chasing down a fault, Start at the starter circuit .. Since you get a spark when you release the start button , it indicates to me there is no current to the ignition while the starter is activated , but there is when it is released. I would strongly suspect the starter relay or the wire from it that supplies ignition current when it is activated.

I would suspect a faulty relay or loose wire. I did a quick search and came up with a site with a pdf of the service manual to help you chase down faults. You can download it here : http://www.peirspeed.com/Cobrasales/docs/TGB Outback 425 - Service Manual.pdf

Are they bolts or studs? Usually such as exhaust manifolds or pipes in the case of single cylinder engines are connected using studs into the engine and nuts to secure the pipe to the exhaust .. Some penetrating oils will wick into nuts , studs or even blind bolts .. Warming the engine might help, but be careful of fire after spraying penetrating oil. If the stud nuts or bolts don't break loose fairly easily , try tightening a little and then loosening .. "rock" them a little without over torquing in either direction also helps break a stubborn bolt/ nut loose.

I found a thread on another forum describing much the same problem you have .. I'm copying and pasting his problem and solution : i just got a used 2003 Bombardier Quest 500 with the rotax motor and the po said it needed an oil change because the oil light was on and that was making it cut out. it cranks and idles great, runs good, good trans, steering, tires, etc, but when you give it gas, it cuts out like it has a rev limiter, but it does it in all gears. when i first crank it, it will rev all the way up, but after a minute it starts cutting out. if i cut it off and wait a few minutes, it will rev all the way up again for a minute or so. does anyone know what i can check? ive checked the intake boot, the carb is clean on the inside, ive changed the oil, the oil sending unit is bad, ive grounded out the wire so the light would go off and it still cuts out. what else can i do? thanks, chuck got it fixed! it was a ground wire pulled out of the MPEM box. now i need a good speedometer and the half round light section beside it, the guy i had fix it flipped it over and messed that stuff up. maybe someone is parting one out. it was a ground wire coming out of the box bolted to the air box. seems like it was black and grounded to the frame and pulled loose from the plug. I also saw it noted there is a rubber section connecting the carb to block. . Check there for vacuum leaks too. That's the best I can do to help. From other forums I gather the problem can also be from a rev limiter not reading a sensor right , or a bad sensor so maybe a check of the wires to the various sensors is also warranted.

It looks from those drawings the fuel pump is vacuum operated by the hose connected in the intake right at the cylinder block .. Could there be a vacuum leak there ? I have no idea on the green hose and have no pictures other than what you supplied to make any guesses from.

I'm not familiar with the setup on that carb and motor but I'd guess maybe the dangling hose fits the carb where the black cap is?....Just wondering if it fell off the original carb since you indicate it was open there rather than capped. Where does the connected end of the dangling hose connect? That might give you some clue ... I can only make guesses from the symptoms described and those symptoms point to a vacuum leak or blocked jet .. Since the carb is new , then I would guess a vacuum problem , but from where I can't say . Didn't find a free download of a service manual without joining an e pub site and my anti virus blocks connecting to ones I found. I'm leery of re-directs when searching for one item . There are some low cost ones though. If you do get a download of one , I'm sure the forum would appreciate you adding it to the library .

If you have to keep the choke on to get it to idle there is a problem with either with a vacuum leak, a jet plugged in the idle circuit or possibly the floats are set too low and not allowing the float bowl to fill to the proper level . Something is stopping it from drawing enough fuel, making it run lean at idle.. Take the carb apart . Blow our the passages in the carb. Blow them back, against normal flow .. "Canned air" such as that used to blow dust out of computers works well.. Check the jets , especially the main one for tiny holes plugged. You would need a fine wire to poke out any that won't clear with just an air blast. In many carbs there are tiny holes in the side near the bottom of the main jet that are easily missed when checking for blockages.

Does it start and run if you use a manual starter ? If not , it is likely a bad neutral switch or relay

Try adjusting the idle air screw. Also may be valves set a little too tight or if the timing chain is loose it may have skipped a tooth. I'd try the idle air adjustment first , then check for vacuum leaks. If that doesn't do it, pull the carb again and make sure all passages are clear and jets checked for tiny missed holes . Blow the passages out with "Canned air" for cleaning computers and electronics if you don't have access to a compressor. If the problem remains then you'll have to dig deeper and check valves and timing. Usually running fine at idle and crap revved up or the reverse indicates a fuel rich or lean burn problem.

Links to download the service manual in 2 parts were posted earlier in the forum . The second part of the manual unfortunately is too large to download to our service manual section so I'll repost the links here. For the complete manual download both parts. \ https://www.hightail.com/download/OGhkUXVqQ0M4aU94djlVag https://www.hightail.com/download/OGhkUXVwTlFqV0FUWThUQw

View File 2007-2014 Honda Rancher TRX420 Service Manual 2007-2014 Honda Rancher TRX420 Service Manual Submitter davefrombc Submitted 10/16/2017 Category Honda ATV

The TRX 420 Service manual is now in the downloads section.

It is starving for fuel when you open the throttle . . Pull the carb and clean it again. Check all the jets for blockages and blow out the passages. Make sure the float level is correct so the float bowl fills to the correct level. When cleaning the jets , make sure to look for some very small holes in the main jet tube that might have been missed in the last cleaning .. Running good all day and then going to crap tells me the carb most likely picked up some small dirt that was missed in the first cleaning and became mobile to pug a jet . It often happens in machines that have sat for a long time and have sediment missed in the bottom of the float bowl, or maybe got by the screen on the fuel valve .

I can't offer any advice on it , but there's a service manual available in the downloads section . Go to browse/downloads/ ATV service manuals ( and more) and then the Yamaha section.

Can Am Error codes View File Complete list of Can Am error codes. Submitter davefrombc Submitted 10/01/2017 Category Can-Am BRP ATV  

I found a complete list of Can Am error codes on another forum and saved it to our download section. Here's the instructions for pulling the codes. 1. Turn Ignition to Lights On position 2. Set speedometer to Engine Hours 3. Press and Hold selector button while switching the Hi-Lo beam 3 times in a row (quickly) 4. Diagnostics mode is activated now 5. Use selector button to go through codes 6. END will come up when all codes are displayed 7. To end mode hold the selector button for more than 2 seconds Here is the direct link to the error codes in the downloads section.