davefrombc

Found the download for the pdf of the '96 -'98 all model service manual and added it to the Polaris section of the repair manuals. Here is the direct link to it:

The bolts are most likely metric.. Find a standard bolt that is about the same size and then take it to a hardware store that stocks metric bolts. Choose metric ones that most closely compare to the standard bolt and then pick up a couple of each metric pitch for that bolt. I'd get bolts on either side of the one you take to compare. Without having one to compare, I'd guess the bolts are likely between 8mm and 10mm ( ~5/16" to ~3/8") and could be either a coarse or fine metric pitch. Here is a Kazuma parts source https://www.kazumausaparts.com/?gclid=CjwKEAjw_dTMBRDHusz5vZaV1g0SJACkjOf8bkdBoGa1G0Em4Jr3ufgXmL6eCTZRcEa7IFt6mH-5uhoC4kfw_wcB you could check with but most likely it would be cheaper to pick up a selection of bolts locally and see what fits.

The service manual is in the forum's Downloads section. (click "Browse / Downloads" ) Here is the link to the download:

The VIN should be stamped into the tube, not on a sticker. You may need to lightly sand the tube to bring it up.. The letters and numbers are not stamped very deep.

This video of BMW engines being manufactured in China very well illustrates where all the unskilled repetitive jobs have gone, and why they're not coming back in America or anywhere else. What BMW has done in China is being repeated by every industry everywhere. If it can be automated, it will be and except for a handful of operators the only people employed by those businesses will be tradesmen maintaining the robots. Education and trades training is far more important today than it has ever been.

Far too many sniff at Chinese ( and Taiwanese or Korean ) made products and declare them junk without having a clue what they are really like.. and at the same time tout some name brand North American products....... that are in fact manufactured in the countries they sniff at .. LOL. . Kymco is a good example of just one of those companies. Americans aren't the only ones to do it by the way .. I'm afraid Canadians can be just as prejudiced against Asian manufactured goods that come from anywhere other than Japan...... and I can remember when everyone was saying if it was made in Japan it was junk..... Until the Japanese started putting American and Canadian made cars especially to shame for quality. Optics and electronics both saw many Japanese brands become far superior to offerings made in North America. We're seeing the start of a repeat of that with today's China too . . Still lots of junk, but also a lot of top notch products .

Couldn't find a free one. There are downloads offered by pay sites

1992-98 Yamaha YFB250 Timberwolf 2WD Service Manual View File Service/Repair manual 1992-98 Yamaha YFB250 Timberwolf 2WD Submitter davefrombc Submitted 08/06/2017 Category Yamaha ATV  

Look up Kymco.. They are Taiwanese, not mainland Chinese... They used to be with Honda before they went on their own. They build motors ans clutches for other big name brand Quads . They also build parts for BMW cars. Kymco happens to also be the official scooter and ATV supplier to the NHRA. Kawasaki and others use Kymco built parts, and Kawasaki also rebrands a Kymco scooter .. They are far from being a junk manufacturer. But call them junk as you wish, but those that condemn "Chinese " manufactured parts and equipment really should learn where far too many of their Good ole USA brand tools, machinery, electronics and many other things are made. Kymco manufactured clutches are used in several CTV applications. No, I don't own a Kymco, nor do I have any investment in them or any other Chinese or Taiwanese companies , but I really do think people , especially in the US need to learn where a lot of the parts and equipment they buy that has old time American names on it and have American parent companies should learn where so many components are made and how many items they buy with American brands on them are actually rebranded from an off shore manufacturer; many of them unheard of outside their home country. A lot of junk does come out of mainland China, but a lot of top notch things do too.. Unfortunately the same can be said of Canadian and American manufactured products. The country of origin doesn't necessarily determine whether a product is junk or not.

If you want new rims , all you need to do is choose the brand and style you want and tell the dealer what they are to fit . If you are looking at used rims you need to know the bolt pattern and the offset to know if you can use them .. Here is a site that tells you how to measure rims to find the specs on it , ans even handier charts showing rim specs for a whole range of quads by manufacturers .. Look up your Kodiak to get the rim specs , and then compare them to other makes to see what ones interchange. http://www.mud-throwers.com/atv_wheel_chart

If it is running too lean at idle , it will do that when you give it throttle.. On carbs that have an accelerator pump, if it doesn't work right it will also bog when you go to open it up .. It can idle fine and still be too lean to catch when you open it up. It will stumble. Try giving it a 1/4 turn out ans see if it helps. If it idles fine and refuses to rev up at all, then most likely there is a plugged jet or passage . You might also double check the float setting. If it is not allowing the float bowl to fill to the proper level it could also not want to rev above an idle .. Simplest first .. Try the idle air screw, then if no go look deeper.

It may be just the idle air screw is set a little too lean , try turning it out a 1/4 to 1/2 turn and see if improves before digging deeper into the carb again .. Most start from 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from seated and then adjust 1/4 turn at a time in or out to find the sweet spot .

There's a service manual in our downloads section. To find the Suzuki manuals and others, click on the (and 9more) under the ATV service manuals to open a list of makes. Here's the link to 2008 model which should be the same for your 2009.

Check out the Kymcos too if you have them in your area. A friend of mine has a MXU 700i and it is a beast.

Sounds to me like something has come loose in the linkage between your shifter and transmission, quite possibly in the shifter mechanism in the transmission itself. It is not moving the gears into full mesh. It could be something as simple as the shift cable coming loose and out of adjustment or mean you have to go into the transmission. I found a download for the 2011 Rzr 800 and added it to the library. Here's the link to it.

View File 2011 Polaris Ranger RZR 800 Service Manual 2011 Polaris Ranger RZR 800, RZR S, and RZR 4 Service Manual Submitter davefrombc Submitted 08/05/2017 Category Polaris UTV  

While you're in there I'd change that timing sprocket too. It's showing a fair bit of wear .. Yes, you want those guides in place to keep the chain from jumping on the sprocket and throwing the valve timing out. I don't know about that motor but on some motors if the valve timing is out or the chain is broken the piston can hit the valves.. and good bye motor. Was the keyway in the crankshaft damaged? You could be looking at some major repairs to the motor with a new crankshaft in the works if the keyway is slopped out .

As far as oil is concerned, you likely can't go wrong with a 10w40 (MA in the specifications) suitable for motorcycles in the engine and a 75-90 hypoid oil in the differentials. According to other forums on engine oils avoid the "Energy conserving" oils. They have friction reducing additives that can screw up wet clutches.

According to a post in another site : Try looking on the upper frame tube on the rear left side under the wheel well. As Frank says .. There's one somewhere on the frame. Try looking for a number on the motor too. It might be possible to id it from that .

Bring the piston up to TDC on compression. Watch the valves as you do it. When it is TDC compression, both valves will be closed. If you take the spark plug out you should be able to see into the cylinder to confirm when the piston is at the top. If you can't see the piston , you can use a dowel or even a pencil to feel for the piston reaching the top.. Be sure to turn the motor over slowly by hand. You don't want to break off the dowel or pencil in the cylinder.When you see (or feel) the piston at TDC then you can look to see what line most closely lines up with whatever indicator there may be. The piston doesn't have to be exactly at TDC to set the valves , but it must be close enough that both valves are closed, and not beginning to open ... There are a few degrees rotation after the intake valves have closed and before the exhaust valves begin to open.

If your compression is down around 40 PSI then there may be nothing wrong with the clutch. . The engine isn't producing the power necessary for it to work properly. Check the valves and gaskets first as Frank mentioned. Bring the motor up to specs and then see if you still have clutch problems.

I took a quick look at a review of that quad. Since it is fuel injected there should be a fuel enrichening signal while the motor is cold . My guess would be either a sensor is not working to give it the signal, or possibly because the quad is designed principally for racing it doesn't have that feature .. Having to give it a little throttle until it warms up is no biggie to me. If you're looking at the quad more as a trail rider than a racer, be aware that it has no reverse.. You need to manhandle it back if you get in a sticky spot.. That to me would be a deal killer since I am not a racer, and I definitely need to back up quite regularly.