Frank Angerano

Give me a little bit just landed at JFK. I will get back to you soon

I would test everything including the stator. It can’t hurt to run some tests while you have things open. I’m just not keen on the cheap regulator you have. This way you eliminate all loose ends.

Ok so basically now it’s just a matter of new parts coming ? Cdi and regulator ? Why did you swap out the starter in the first place if I may ask ?

But still popping fuse ?

Ok have you put the oem one in to see what happens?

Yes sir. I think that’s correct. It’s possible that the momentary draw could have done damage. I hate to say it but definitely a possibility. Have you tried any of the new regulators ? And put it all back together so see how the fuse holds up ?

No worries please it’s my pleasure to help. Ok so disconnect the wire from the starter, test again and see if that wire fails. And then test the bolt lug where the wire connects on the starter. If the wire fails than it’s shorted against the frame someplace. If not then the starter may have a failure. You can also take the wire that’s coming from the starter and very very quickly tap it against the positive terminal on the battery to see if the starter spins. If it sparks like hell straight away stop.

The brake lever should just be a safety to close the start circuit. That wire your testing goes to the starter ? If so disconnect it from the relay so it’s independent and test that wire and the relay separately. I’m wondering if one of them wires is hot or burnt up someplace or if something failed inside the starter. Separate all of them and test individually.

Ok so unplug that plug from the relay and test it again. If you don't get a reading then you start tracing the lines off of that plug back. If you do continue to get a reading yiur going to have to trace that wire your on back. Why is that wire your testing black????

Ok well that’s a good thing If everything is clean and connected properly then I guess you can check that off the list. I really forgot how far back this thread goes. It’s all worth it though. These things run like hell when they are fixed right and usually only need general maintenance. However, your committed now so might as well finish strong and get it done. Your doing great.

Sounds good. Listen if that were my bike while you have everything open I would unplug the connectors and clean them with a little sand paper on (male connectors) and small flat head screw drivers and a small pic type tool inside the female connectors by gently scraping. Get some dialectic grease or electrical contact cleaner spray and apply to the connections and reconnect. It’s a smart thing to do while you have everything exposed and will guarantee solid connections. The grease or spray is cheap and can be bought at any auto parts store. Also by the way that bike looks really clean from what I can see so it looks like it’s a good machine and in tact and worth the effort.

Just make sure it’s working properly before you start testing.

Fyi you can pick up a cheap 12v test light and test a lot of that stuff as well. Just attach the alligator clip to ground and turn the key on you should have power on both sides of the breaker. The test light will come on.

That my friend is in the Turks and Cacos. Unbelievable place to be! Already booked next year. That parasail pic was at 650 took us up to just under 800 feet! I attached another pic. I cannot stress the level of quality here and the beauty. All inclusive as well. Only way to go!

Thanks brother, it was abut 650 in the air. First time parasailing. I did it with my oldest boy. Aside from the lightning a little rain should never stop one from riding! Me and @06kfx440 know this. Heading back to reality tomorrow night 😢 but looking forward to my garage/shop Reno.

My guess would be a fuel delivery issue that can be solved with a good carburetor cleaning and add a fuel filter as well. But I’m sure a valve adjustment is long overdue. As far as spark goes if you can clearly see a good spark when you pull the plug and test it then you don’t usually need to dig deeper into that. Might as well double check your timing as well while your adjusting the valves.

Welcome to Quadcrazy @Jordan Ritzman !

Probably needs a valve adjustment would be my guess. You can check this by taking a simple compression test. I would also check the fuel delivery system. Maybe a little bit of dirt caught up in the needle where the float is. This could cause The gas from getting up into the intake port of the carb. You could have gotten some bad or dirty gas. Hows the gas in the bike fresh ? Is the tank clean and maybe a fuel filter if you clean the carburetor. Last thing is make sure there are no leaks on the intake boot where the carburetor is mounted and make sure your vent hose on the gas cap is clear.

91 ? Let’s see a picture of that thing! What condition is it in, what are some of the problems going on and what wiring problems are you having?

Good morning!

Ok so I looked at the diagram for your bike. I was wrong on the sensor locations. I had them backwards. The sensor located in the cylinder head is the high temp indicator sensor. If you ground that wire your high temp light will come on. The fan thermal sensor is the one located in the radiator. That’s the one that that brings the fan in and would need replacing if bad. I’ve attached a few pages for your use. I noticed that there is also a circuit breaker for the fan located in the diagram that’s on the same line as the sensor. Try to find that and double check it. It could be as simple as resetting or replacing that. You can jump that circuit breaker or test it on each side for continuity. I’ve highlighted some items for ease. Just look for the color of the wire and follow along. The sensor in the radiator can be tested as well if you look at the pages but you maybe better off just replacing if your ordering parts. Take your time and don’t get frustrated, the answer is there someplace on the wiring I’ve showed you. It’s just a matter of process of elimination now. Good luck and keep us posted.

Well done. Keep us posted. I will see what I can find in the diagram.

It is cheap enough to do. When I get a few min I will pull up the diagram and see if I can make any sense out of it for you.

Hopefully it’s just the sensor. If you have the diagram post it I will look and see exactly what triggers the fan but my guess is you take the wire off that sensor on the head and ground it (harness side wire) and the fan should come on. The second sensor in the radiator may be for the high temp light or a safety. In the mean time you could temporarily wire that fan SAFELY to stay on and take the bike for the same ride you did to see if she overheats again and see how it runs overall. If it runs hot then you have a secondary problem like maybe a thermostat, water pump etc. If not then your problems are limited to just a sensor or wiring problem.

It sounds like a bad temp sensor that should be located on the head with a single wire coming off of it. Or the fan circuit itself has no power. Double check the fuses are good and the wiring is good. That fan is supposed to come on after the engine hits a certain temp. On a lot of engines the sensor is located someplace around the top of the head and has one wire coming off of it and screwed into the head. So when the sensor gets to the point that its designed it grounds the sensor by having a special piece of bimetal that bends on temperature and brings the fan on. So if you have that type of set up simply turn the key to the on position and take that wire off of the sensor and ground the wire.If the fan comes on you need a sensor. If it’s a two wire sensor you may have to unplug them from the sensor and jump them together instead of grounding. I would start there and also order a new thermostat and gasket and throw it in as well.