Frank Angerano

Maybe this will help I just looked on YouTube and found this. Let me know if it helps. Not sure if it matches your bike but worth a shot.

I’m not 100% familiar with this bike but if I’m not mistaken theres a screen inside the tank on the sending unit. I would pull the tank agin and take that sending u it out and double check all of this. Did the pump come with a screen ?

Have you checked to see if you have spark when this happens ? I know the plug would be wet etc but take a look for sh*** and giggles when the bike won’t start if spark is there. Secondly I would do a compression test before and after the engine is hot as well as take the temperature of the cylinder head. You can do this with an infrared point and shoot thermometer to see how how hot the engine is getting.

I know you said you cleaned the tank but you replaced the pump did you also change the pick up filter at the sending unit and double check that the hose connections were on correct ?

I would go back and look at the intake portion of the fuel system and check that the petcock, supply lines are clear and no cracks in the lines where you could be sucking in air. Take the fuel pump off and bench test it also if you can.

Ok I thought it was a vacuum pump. No pictures needed. So that new pump is an oem or aftermarket? Have you primed the fuel lines and checked that there is no obstruction coming from the tank ? Was it a direct replacement and plug right in?

This could be one of so many things. Engines that blow the bottom end can still run. They knock like a son of a bi*** and will run until the bottom end completely blows apart. If there was very little oil then you must have a leak someplace and that could have caused this ? Check the oil plug and any seals as well as any oily places on the engine. Second item is the timing could have jumped and slammed the valves and piston together either putting a hole in the piston or bending a valve. Third item is the compression release has failed and that’s all it could be ? Based on the low compression I would feel theres a hole in the piston or a big crack somewhere or a blown head gasket. Pull the oil cap off, put the spark plug back in. Do not put the spark plug wire on! Crank the engine and see if you have air pressure coming from where the oil fill cap is by holding your hand lightly over it. If so you def have compression leaking into the engine. You can also spray the engine down with a soapy water solution and crank the engine and look for bubbles. I would do these simple tests first and go from there. Hope this helps.

That bike is fuel injected yes ? If so you’ve replaced the pump ? And do you hear the pump come on when you turn the ignition ? I thought it was a vacuum set up. Can you pots a few pics ?

What year is the bike ?

Have you checked YouTube? There are usually a lot of reviews from manufacturers and people who bought the machines.

Going through a puddle ? That’s odd because most of the electrical components are higher up into the frame. Something like that could be tricky to isolate. If water is getting inside of a plug, water going near the stator etc but that’s the only parts that are down low. The cdi could be gettin damp and causing that to happen but it could be anything! You would have to really look at the bike for any exposed wiring or open areas like around the kill switch etc. I would rate this on a scale of 1 to 10 a 7 as far as being risky. If the price is right then yes it would be worth the effort. But if your paying a lot of money walk away. That’s my take.

No worries. Just be sure you’ve checked everything else as well. Vacuum, all lines are tight, and anything else related to the fuel pump system etc.

It’s a pain in the as* but that’s the way it is. Sorry brother. Hopefully you will have better luck with with this one.

This will give you a better understanding of how a cv carburetor works.

If the throttle cable is damaged and lowering the throttle helped I would say yes this is an issue. Lower the idle as low as it can go without stalling and see how it shifts. Should idle at about 800 to 900 max rpm.

The fuel pumps have diaphragms that crack sometimes. We have also seen new pumps installed with problems. It’s weird but they do fail more so then the manufacturers like to admit. I would swap it out and see how it goes.

Nope not a problem. The slide works on a vacuum. So have a clean preferably white towel or an old pillow case. I like to see what’s comes out and it’s easier to keep all the parts local. Take it apart and keep all the screws for each part separate on the area you working on. If you have a can of the air people use to clean off computer keyboards it helps. Something to clean the small holes out. If you need something I always recommend taking a strand of a piece of bicycle brake cable , it works great.

Nice work ! That throttle cable will come off by grabbing that throttle control on the carb and turning it and pull the cable off as it slacks. Almost like you would a bike chain. Then once the cable is off of the main part line it up with that slot and slide it out. There should be a part that holds the throttle cable into the carburetor also. You can unscrew that as well to slack the cable.

See if this matched up with your wiring on the bike. If so then the bear tracker wiring is the same. And so should the spec on the stator and pick up coil.

Nice work so far. Try to download the 89 bear tracker I’m pretty sure the wiring and specs are the same. What color are the three wires coming off the statue white ? I think that’s a good idea on waiting on a battery and tester. I have a feeling it’s going to be fine once that’s all together.

Well dam that’s definitely not a factory bend! The kit will come with new jets that should be the same but compare them and make sure the numbers match. If you plan on cleaning them use a piece of a bicycle brake cable. Take a strand off of the cable and use that to clean the small holes out. As far as the air/fuel screw it says 2-1/8 turns out. That sounds right. I would go with that and see how she runs. I can’t believe how that needle is bent. Good find!

Fun fact, I’ve only used Quadcrazy via my iPhone! So no clue what you two are taking about lol 😂😂😂😂. Anyway it’s def a carb issue. A couple of things to look for. One is a crack in the float allowing it to fill up with fuel thus not allowing it to properly float/lift the needle to shut fuel off to the bowl causing an over flow condition as you seen. Two the float is set wrong and it’s a simple adjustment. Or the fill needle may have a rubber tip or o ring inside that’s compromised. The air fuel screw 100% needs to come out and have the as***** cleaned out of it good and blown out. (Count the turns it set at) After all is said and done you may have to adjust the air fuel screw with the bike running to get a final dial in. When you get to that point it’s easy enough to do. Get after it! #Texasinourthoughts

I would throw a new battery in before you do anything. See what your charging at after that. Either way you need a battery so might as well go ahead with that. Check the spec on the stator output. It should be about 14 volts. But that’s an 89 I think you said so I can’t be 100% sure it’s supposed to be 14 volts. Maybe pull that stator cover and see how it looks.

I forgot one thing. You can put a tester on the battery while the bike is running to see what it’s charging at. This will help you out to determine if the stator is charging properly and if the regulator/rectifier is working.

Yep I figured as much. The relay contacts arc when they make contact. That arcing eventually eats away at the contacts. That could be from poor voltage or an inconsistent voltage like a dirty contact on your start button.