Frank Angerano

That awesome, make sure you pack a few extra things like spark plug and maybe a small jumper pack and plenty of water. Be sure to take and post some pics and let others know how the trails are. Enjoy and ride safe!

The carburetor you installed was it an oem carb? I think your on the right track with the TPS. You can calibrate it with an ohms meter but probably better off buying the calibration tool. That throttle control and the plates your talking about also raise some concern so I would focus on what the spec says and review that it’s all working properly. I had an older Polaris and the rev limiter inside the throttle on the handlebars was flooded with water. You could not notice it from looking at it but when I opened it up the water was I see and everything was rusted.

It’s all good. Plenty of people here to help you along without making you feel like a dummy as some of the other forums do. Ask as many questions as you want. You will gat all the info you need right here at Quadcrazy. There is a post on rebuilding a carburetor. It includes all aspects including the float adjustment. Take a look and I’m sure it will clear things up for you.

Ok so it was the rotor after all. Great news. Definitely post some pics and let others know please how you managed this problem. Including how you isolated the rear brake from the front. I’m not a fan of having both (front/rear) operate the same time. Ride safe!

Ok so now that you actually need help I can tell you that the aftermarket cheap carb will get you no place. It does just that, causes bogs and mis fires. Secondly the float should not have any spring action whatsoever. It works on gravity, when the bowl is low gravity kicks in and drops the bowl. When the bowl fills with gas the float raises up and closes the needle. Perfect position is the bowl is around 3/4 full and the float comes up and closes the needle. I would look for an oem carb on eBay, used should be ok and make sure it’s clean and adjusted correctly. I think you will have to make a final adjustment on the air/fuel screw after the machine is up and running but that’s an easy task. Finding a used carburetor for under $150 is going to be the tough part. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273964594046 Good luck.

Nice work brother.

I can understand it just fine I’ve seen a few different set ups before I’m just wondering which set up it is. Wether it be a cable actuator like you would find on a Yamaha blaster or a mechanical rod that draws the caliper in. It is hard to vision without pics I guess.

I’m going to guess that it’s not properly bled out. Whenever you do work or open up the fluid lines on a brake system it has to be bled. So if there is a hose from the rear caliper to the brake pedal then you should be able to bleed the brakes pending there is a bleed out nipple on the caliper. So is that bleeder on the caliper ? If so you can bleed it and prob solve your problem.

It’s .003 mm on intake and exhaust. Set the piston at top dead center and use feeler gauges.

I can look up the spec on the valves. I will double check and get back to you. So you have spark you said and you spray starting fluid into the carburetor and still not firing up ? That does not add up. Have you checked compression?

My buddy loves them. He still has one from early 90’s. Said he would give it to his kid when he had one. Never got married or kids. He still rides it to this day.

That’s the part. Nice work !

👍🏻

I would agree but I don’t understand the system. It could be a matter of adjustment. I really have never heard of a rear brake system that is mechanical and also hydraulic? Can you post a few pics of the rear caliper, the handlebars and what you did to block it off ? I’m kinda curious.

Can’t help you if you don’t post the SIZE of the bike!!!!!!!!

Shouldn’t have been but yes the part is called the cup starter. Good luck and ride safe.

Wow ok I will take your word for it. So if any set of caliper brakes wear down to a point that the brake material is gone from the pad then it’s metal on metal. Always a bad thing. This is a easy sign to spot because the damage to the rotor (disk) is very noticeable. It will have groves in it due to the rivers that hold the brake pad material to the steel portion of the pad, so if that rotor is wavy and has ruts in it then yes it’s possible. My guess is it would be about a quarter of an inch thick if it were good (Rotor). Did you put new pads on ?

Not sure if you want to go down this road but here’s a used one on eBay. It looks in tact and in great condition. Just not sure about your existing carburetor and what’s been done to it. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F362698319020

That does not mean it’s getting up into the carburetor. The float needle can be stuck or blocked.

That’s some good stuff. This can be an expensive hobby and some bike manufacturers and there parts are more expensive then others. We all have our priorities as well when it comes to spending. They say money talks! All mine says is good bye! 😂 As long as you don’t mind waiting for parts and buying little by little I feel things turn out better anyway. It also gives you more time to clean, paint and sort things out better. Good luck brother!

Here are a few pairs used for a 400 and a 700. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333288716276 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F303111325661

Your very welcome. Keep us posted on your progress.

What size is the machine ????

Ok so while your cranking hit it with starting fluid and see if it fires up. Spray it into the carburetor just a little. If so then your float is stuck closed or the fuel port on the carb has a blockage. I know you cleaned the carburetor but it happens. The starting fluid will tell you that it’s obviously not getting fuel if it fires up.

If that engine is not responding to the adjustment on the air/fuel mixture screw then there’s definitely a problem within the carb. I know you’ve been through it all with this carb but somethings off. Especially because it does not shut down when you send it all the way in.