Frank Angerano

Sounds good. Thanks for the input brother ride safe.

Your welcome, I hope it helps you out in the long run.

Thanks @Tahj i have heard about the guitar strings but seriously anyone who reads this that does not have a guitar string or torch tips should try to use the bicycle brake cable strand. It’s perfect and has waves in it to help clear all walls of the ports. Ultrasonic cleaner is in my future for sure but I’m old school for now.

Lol your a nut!

This is one I’ve used and like. It comes with the soak basket etc.

I like the Honda. That’s a great bike, It will run forever. The polars is independent wheel suspension? I’ve been contemplating a bike with independent suspension for some time.

Agreed. Def look at the backfire thing. As far as fuel pump definitely check the pressure as well as flow. Try to use a small gas tank and hose and gravity feed it to see how it runs maybe ?

Sounds like you did the right job! The only thing I could think of was the timing unless your onto something with the fuel pump. But the floats imploded to me equal a huge suctioning condition which could be the result of a poor fuel condition I would guess as if the engine is starving for gas. But have you heard any backfire or as if the engine farted? Lol bad choice of words but best way to describe it! Like it kicked back in the opposite direction ?

Figured as much. That’s a great machine you got there. Did you buy it new ? What’s your opinion on Polaris ? Pros cons ?

First time for everything!!! Be sure to post some progress photos as well as share any tricks you may learn along the way. Good luck.

I may just pull the trigger and buy one of these one day. But I’ve always been successful doing it the way I have been for years. I would not mind having one though for carburetors and a lot of other parts. I could definitely see breaking a carburetor down and putting all the parts and the carburetor in the cleaner for a while making my job a little easier I rebuilt the carburetor for my Mojave today and it came out great just need to dial it in I’m sure after the bike is finished. But cleaning all the little spots on the carburetors is a pain in the as*. I’m not talking about the little spots that matter or make it run but when I do a carburetor I like to make it look like new inside and out! So we will see, I will give it a shot.

That’s some good stuff! Looks like you got a little close to the edge a few times! The views are amazing. Keep them coming.

It’s definitely possible that it got up onto the oil pump or the pick up. If your splitting the engine I would assume you would see it all anyway ? Double check and blow out all of your lines and crevices good including the banjo bolts since they have small holes in them. That stuff is almost impossible to breakdown so I think acid would be bad. Your going to have to double check and make sure its all out the good ole fashion way! Is it the red or silver ? Reason I’m asking is you stand a slightly better chance seeing the red!

Welcome to Quadcrazy @Guillaume Cliche That some implosion damage. Have you had any backfires ? That reminds me of an old bike I had that the timing was off a bit and the valves were out of spec also. The engine backfired and and did the same thing to my floats. I would start there and see if the timing is off. That would also cause an erratic idle.

Post a pic and the location. I’m sure someone here can help you identify.

Hey Russell, welcome to Quadcrazy. RTV ? Are you referring to a silicone the vulcanizing type ? I would stay away from any acid use to be honest. There are a few easy ways to do it. One I’ve used is a really good chisel and scraped it off. You have better control over a chisel then you would a razor. Other methods I’ve looked up are using a dreamel or a pencil grinder with a soft wire brush tip and work it slowly around the edges. Here is the video I followed and it helped. I used all three methods, razor (ok) chisel (good bit need to be careful) and a pencil grinder/dremel with the wire wheel. Hope this helps

Hey Chris welcome to Quadcrazy. I’m working one a Mojave myself in the middle of a minor restoration process. I’m assuming electrical pages ?

Good point @davefrombc you can always lock up the flywheel with a clamp if need be.

I would think more so the valve seals but it’s hard to tell. Valve seals can be replaced without pulling the head off. The piston is brought all the way up and there is a part that screws into the spark plug hole that connects to an air source. That keeps constant air pressure on the valves so you can take the springs off and change the seals. The air pressure keeps the valves up. So maybe you should look into this. At the very least pull the valve cover off and turn the air on you will clearly hear some air coming from the seals and you can even spray windex on the valve seals and see bubbles. Or you just tear the bike apart and do seals and a piston for about $150 bucks in parts and be done with it. Either way start with a compression test just to see where you are at.

It’s easy. Locate the stator wires. They should be three wires going into the engine side cover on the left side of the bike. Total of five wires go into the engine cover. Three go to the stator and should be either all yellow or all white and the other two are for the pick up coil. Testing : The tester is set on ohms/continuity setting. Unplug the stator from the harness. First thing to do is connect one of the tester leads to a good ground on the bike frame. Take the second test lead and put it on one of the three stator wires at a time. Look at the tester and see if you get any readings. If so that’s a bad sign. Do the same for all three wires. If they give you a continuity reading from wire to ground then it’s bad. Second test: Test leads are going to go from each of the stator wires test the first one to the second one and then so on and so on. Your tester should show numbers from each wire to wire. They should be very close to each other. Write them down and then check the manual, it will show you the exact number range it should be in. If that number is not within the specified range then it’s not producing properly. If you need that page I will look it up for you.

Hey @Colby Calk and welcome to Quadcrazy. After everything you’ve explained i honestly feel the stator is bad. You looked at the stator coil and said it looks good. Only half the stators that go bad are visibly noticeable. Some of the failures happen inside the coils. So having said that you can test the stator coil with an electrical tester. If you have one it’s a pretty simple test.

What I’ve always done on the valve caps is add a drop of high heat silicone right over the rubber gasket on the cap before i put it back to be safe weather it needs it or not. Second is loosen and back the two bolts next to the de comp lever out about a quarter inch which is just enough to add a drop of the same silicone on both sides of the washer and send it back in. That should fix up the problem. The small tube of the silicone has that tapered clear nozzle on the top. I cut just enough off to have a small worm like flow. Most importantly is spray a bit of carb cleaner to get any grease/oil off of all areas.

@w_r_e did you use feeler gauges on the valve adjustments? And have you taken a confession before and after ? Just curious.

Definitely a good point. One thing you will find in a lot of my posts are take a deep breath and walk away for a while. Things pop into the mind after it has a little time to clear!

Redneck special right there! I am looking forward to hearing this thing run but that’s a little ways off for now. At least two weeks.