Frank Angerano

So it’s painted and looks amazing, color was spot on. Parts showed up and I found the oem air box that was missing!! The chain is sick, going to paint a few more things in the next day or so and it’s going to be reassembled this weekend. I think I should have ordered a new sprocket but it’s too late now. It will be fine i guess. Don’t plan on having this thing around long anyway.

That can happen if the engine backfires. Usually if timing is off or an unusual amount of fuel that builds up in the cylinder. The engine kicks back. Can you screen shot the page that explains the cam and spring installation and post it here ? I want to read it. I don’t have time to start looking for the manual.

Is it possible you put the charging leads on the wrong terminals on the battery ? Smoking battery and your explanation of what the bike is doing sounds like a battery either installed the wrong way or the charging clamps put on the wrong place. I would check your main fuse next to the starter solenoid. If that’s ok I would start looking for burnt wires. Once I noticed the backward battery leads I would have corrected that situation ASAP and tried to figure out why! So look into that first and go from there would be my take.

Nice work !!!! Your thought process on the tires is fine and they should all fit up. Not sure how much low end torque you will gain but it’s worth a shot. Post some pics of you can and ride safe!

Sorry I was working on my own bike. Just wrapped up paint looks sick! Anyway that’s good testing. Just check one more thing. The two brown wires. Test each one on ohms from ground to each brown and see what you have. Then test both brown wires on ohms.

Hey @Adrian Ciotinga how’s the progress going ?

Any luck ?

No problem on the help, that’s what Quadcrazy is here for. Definitely test each of the stator wires one at a time to ground, you should not get anything on the tester. If so then it’s bad. As far as the other two wires coming from the stator they go to the pick up coil. There is an ohms test acceptable range in the spec as well. But focus on the stator for now. Kill switch is a must check because it could be something as simple as that.

Did you change the bendix on the starter? Welcome to Quadcrazy!

Sounds like you have either a bad thermostat, bad cooling fan or the fuse/wiring going to the fan has a problem or possibly the sensor that brings he cooling fan on. Lastly is the water pump could be bad not circulating the coolant through the engine. So what I would do first is if you are good with electrical testing you should locate the fan sensor it should be on the radiator with two wires going to it. Turn the key on and jump the two wires together and the fan should come on. If so that rules out the fan and the power going to it as far as any problems. Next would be the sensor not working properly by reaching temperature. That’s done by taking the sensor out and putting in hot water and testing for continuity on the two metal wire connections on the sensor. You need a thermometer to see what your water temp is (185-190) should close the sensor, a pot of water on the stove works well. If the sensor has no continuity when it’s cold and it does after putting it in hot water then it’s fine. Some people don’t bother with a test and just put a new one in. Thermostat: I would order a new one and gasket (most likely your problem) i always keep one on hand. Water pump: usually leaks when it’s bad but agin never know. I always keep one on hand just in case. Other then that make sure you have coolant in the system and there was not a leak your unaware of and don’t run the engine any more since the high temps can do damage to the cylinder and head gaskets. Double check your oil for any discoloring like coolant or water is in it. lastly did you happen to see any white smoke coming from the exhaust? This would mean your head gasket is bad. That could have been done from running the engine while it was over heating.

Ugh that sucks. A boot is not to bad, hopefully the shaft comes off easy! Good luck.

The stator test has to be as follows. Three wires coming from the stator. Test each of the three wires one at a time going from one of the wires to ground on ohms. You should NOT get a reading. Next test each of the three wires from one to another. You should get a reading from one wire to another. They should be close in readings. The manual should tell you the range of numbers that are acceptable.

I try to do the same thing when I’m on the way back with a bike. Going to look at a new project this afternoon...... stay tuned !

Pressure washer will take all of that off 100%. I had a Polaris Phoenix that was covered in paint. Pressure washer took it all off. Great find, be sure to post some some pics.

Nice, is that dirt or beige paint on the plastics ?

Nice ! Washed it on the way home?

Them long studs that hold the cylinder in place should unscrew from the engine block. Grab them with a vice grip and spin them out. This would be done only in your situation where the cylinder can’t come off.

That is correct !

Got the rest of the bike up in the air finally! Everything is unbolted and ready to pull the engine off. Love this new lift I picked up, gets the bike way up and easy to work on. Going to be at a stand still now until the parts and paint come in! 😡

It happens. We all (is flippers) get that occasional machine that does this to us. Best part is when it’s figured out and running good it’s worth the work. So walk away and do some research and between you and Quadcrazy there will be a logical answer.

No im lost with this. I will keep looking into it. Just got back from a long weekend. I will talk to a buddy of mine who specializes in Polaris.

What's up @JacobSlabach welcome back. Use a little gasoline to get pine tar off. Wipe the plastics down good with the gas as well then hit them with a good armorall coating.

I hear you but that’s the function of a regulator I’m sure you know that already but maybe it’s defective? Was it an oem or aftermarket?

The reserve inlet is part of the gas petcock. If you were to remove it there is a long and short screen. The longer is for the on setting and short for reserve setting obviously. So my guess is the screen in the reserve pick up screen could be blocked, or the small port on the petcock behind the valve is clogged. You would see two screws where the on off is shown. They come off and the valve cover comes off and you can inspect. But he careful because once you open that up they are hard to get back together without leaking again due to the old gasket coming off and going back on. Ive always drained the tank and pulled the gas line off. Put a new long hose like theee feet and clear on the petcock and put it on the reserve and blow into it and see how freely it flows. Same with the on setting and see if there is a difference. If there is an obvious difference then take that long hose and hang it up higher then the tank and spray carburetor cleaner in the hose until it fills up. The pressure in the hose will keep pushing the dirt into the tank and freeing it up. Then it’s just a matter of putting a little gas in the tank and flushing it.

If it’s over charging then the regulator/rectifier is no good.