Frank Angerano

Is that fuel line hooked up to a fuel source? That’s actually a great question and something I’m going to seriously look into. Maybe that decompression not working pulls a vacuum ? It’s definitely a possibility.

Well the gas is not magically getting into the oil. It could just be a slow drip. See what happens.

Yep on line is the way to go. Not sure where your located @Tiffany Rowland But most stuff gets here in a day or two by me and I still hate the wait but that’s the way things are today.

Is supposed to be snug not super tight. There are a few different types of decompression mechanisms. Polaris is one of the far different ones I’ve seen. The spring is a small round baby spring that sits in a hole? Go to YouTube and take a look. Keyword Polaris cam decompression. I want you to try one more thing please. Can you kinda do a bench test on the carburetor. Take the carburetor and mount it firmly. Use some tie wire if you have to. Make sure it’s in the proper upright position and make sure the throttle cable and slide is all back together as if it were ready to be used. You have to see what that thing is doing. Hook up the fuel line and open the petcock Watch that baby for a day and see if any fuel is leaking out of it. Put a piece of cardboard under it as I mentioned earlier. Could be an internal failure that your not seeing. Maybe a fracture or something.

Ok take a deep breath there is a reason why and you sound like the type of person who will certainly get to the bottom of it as well as some help from us here at Quadcrazy! The springs on the cam should be the assisted compression release. Post some pics.

I’m sorry but I don’t understand the second part of what you wrote. Can you explain it to me a little better?

Ok that’s good. Now that float needle seat that the pin sits inside have you removed that and checked that it’s properly seated and the gasket or o ring is in good shape ?

Wet sanding is simply taking a pice of water sandpaper. Ask for it at any hardware store or Home Depot etc, It has a very distinctive look to it. Dark grey and not your ordinary paper looking type. Ask for 1200 and 1800. It’s very fine but really smooths things over and makes for good prep base. You use a small bucket of water or a spray bottle. Wet the area and start sanding. Now as far as body shops I was very explicit about getting a good deal because I asked him to do it while he was using a color that I needed and not going out of his way to do it for me. And trust me I understand the time constraints I have three little blood suckers of my own. Thank god now one is old enough to rebuild my carburetors and help out with breaking a bike down/pulling it apart.

@Freezeman I have to say it’s a little bit out of line brother. All he did was simply ask a question. There are a ton of people out there that are always looking for a break. Not @06kfx440 ! I can personally tell you I’ve rode with him and also met his kids as well as some of his friends, he’s a good man. I actually caught up with him last week in the city for a few cold ones. He is not looking for anything free by far!

Sounds right to me. If your pulling the carb off try something please to kill my curiosity. Put a clean hose on the fuel line of the carb and then turn the carburetor upside down and blow into the hose as hard as you can. See if there is an air leak. Even if it’s minor it’s not good.

I would not be so quick to sand blast it. I consider myself an atv plastic magician! I’ve tried tons of stuff as afar as colors graphics spraying and hydro dipping. Sanding and buffing . Most of them worked out well, I did find however that nothing preps my plastics better then wet sanding with a 1200 grit and then an 1800 grit paper. One thing I do want to also mention is you need a huge bin to properly hydro dip the plastics in since most of them are big pieces. I also had a recent project, it was a Kawasaki bayou. I water sanded the plastics to a smooth finish and dropped them off at a body shop for cars. Asked him to spray them with a black on the next car he was spraying back. He put a flex agent in the paint and also sprayed an adhesion promoter. Then he baked them in a booth for an hour. They came out like glass and he charged me $150 bucks. The hydro dip and any other color scheme I wanted to do would have cost me $90 bucks so I spent the extra $60 and it was well worth it and no labor for me ! As as far as the low end throttle response I have no clue what your talking about so maybe you can explain it better. I finished my daughters atv a while back she’s 13 and I tried to keep it a mod free as possible and did only graphics etc. It came out sick but it’s as fast as she needs it right now.

That’s surprising since they really are work horses and run forever. I picked one a while back and it was I 400ex that was sitting. Made some repairs and it was a beast. Sold it about a year ago and the new owner still messages me that he loves the bike. So what’s happening with your bike that your always working on it, anything we can help with ?

Nice work, slow and steady!

Even if the wall was inspected @06kfx440 by the town that does not cover the surrounding grounds. It could have been a number of circumstances that led up to the wall coming down. Tree roots expanding, untraditional rains we have been experiencing over the last few years, shifting grounds it could be so many things. I would think homeowners insurance would be the route to go on this.

Could very well be the case @davefrombc good point.

Lol take a deep breath and maybe a step back. To much time at it will make you crazy. My feeling is that spring is exactly what I think it is. But I could be wrong. If it fell down Into the cylinder it could have easily been mangled up in the cam chain into pieces and basically been pumped through the engine. I’m thinking along these lines like I said earlier based on the top end work. I would change the oil a few more times with cheap oil to make sure you get it all out. You can use paint strainers to catch any debris as you drain the oil and re use the oil over to keep flushing the system. Once it’s all clear put a better grade oil in. If it’s just the small spring chances are it’s not going to do much. Go through all the gears to make sure it’s shifting, you can do that just by rocking the bike back and forth and go through the gears. Stick with the timing to make sure it’s correct and get it fired and listen to it run. Take it from there. That pic I sent you is a cam that’s for your machine. The only other option is to pull the engine off the frame and set it on a bench and tare it down. Not sure how far you want to go but it is what it is. Lastly is the previous owner: did he or she give you any background on this machine ? It seems like you don’t have much background history with it as to what was done etc?

I’m thinking possibly a compression relief spring ? Not sure if the engine has that. But based on the short history of the cam replacement and top end work that would be my guess. See that small spring on the cam ? It’s possible that it has come off prior to the last owner rebuilding the top end.

Oh boy. Any idea where there from ? So you found them inside the stator cover and also in the oil when you drained ?

Ok good, I hate the waiting on parts. Hopefully it’s all oem and in good condition.

I would leave it alone. Plug it all in and leave it be. If it prevents the engine from firing then you will have to dig into it. It I doubt that’s good to be the case. When’s the new carb showing up ?

So the more I read up on this the more curious I got. I found multiple wiring diagrams as well as looked up your carburetor. The only thing I could not find is the proper color codes that match your bike. Are you sure of the year ? I found that the four wires going to your carburetor are for the heater (warmer) on the carb. It was added i would guess for colder states to avoid icing from moisture that’s on the intake side of the carburetor. It looks to me that two of the four wires go to a temperature sensor that’s designed to tell the warmer to come on when needed or it comes on straight away and the sensor tells it to shut off when the engine reaches temperature, one or the other. The other two wires go to the warming element Inside the carburetor. There should also be a small black box that is a controller/relay for that warmer. It should be located someplace along the frame in that area of the carb? Ive attaches a carburetor image that should match you bike for reference and posted a link to the carburetor parts. Hope this helps. https://www.partzilla.com/article//catalog/kawasaki/atv/2000/prairie/300/kvf300/b2/carburetor

So guess what screw needs to be adjusted? The air fuel mixture screw!!!!!!! Sucks but yes that’s the one. Please tell me you put a good quality carb on, maybe oem ? Double check the specs and see where they have it set at and put it there. You may need to adjust a hair either way but that gets you close.

Ok got it. Get back to you after I have a look.

And your carburetor has a plug coming off of it to mate up to that?

Believe it or not you can do that but it has to be a running bike Un fortunately. I’ve seen and tried after watching. When the bike is running up to par I’ve seen a person put marks on the flywheel and on the engine casing. After hitting it with the timing light it worked. Crazy stuff but yes. I have to try to find the video. It wa s a good idea. I honestly think your cams are off, hope I’m wrong. But I think you have to go back and look at what was done and try to locate some information on the cams you have or replace with oem cams and sprockets.