Frank Angerano

And another one!!!! Love seeing the old bikes brought back to life !!!! That bike came out sweet! The colors are great! Well done AZ. Nice job on swinging that Polaris onto the deal!

Right up my alley!!! Nice work brother. I had a feeling it was the reverse cam! That looks great. Keep the pics coming and check out my last post on the Mojave rebuild, it came out sweet. I’m really digging all the rebuilds that have been going on so far!

It looks great for that price. I have one that Ive used before but it’s $40 All Balls Racing 26-1071 Carburetor Rebuild Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I4ON6SQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IMuEDb21SJP61

That’s exactly what I was figuring. I was going to list it for $1600 and try to get $1500-$1400. We will see how it goes. I still have some flashy stuff to add on before the week is out so I will get that done see if it looks any more attractive. Thanks for the input.

A little update!! Got it all back together for the most part, just waiting on a few more goodies (cosmetic stuff) to show up that were on back order. They should be here tomorrow afternoon! Going to post up a few more pics after that. Took it for a ride and it runs like a champ. It’s fast as heck for a 250. Very surprised about that and it handles pretty good. Cooling fan kicks in at a perfect 186 degrees and it idles perfect. Prob going to let the oldest run with it for a minute and sell it. Any guesses on what it’s worth ???

Sounds good. Hopefully it’s just a matter of adjustments. Nothing worse then waiting on parts!

@Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones How’s it going? Did you locate and order a stator ?

I would hold off until you have it running and see what happens. If that thing sat it could be just a matter of getting things moving in the gearbox.

Any luck ?

You could double check that the float is set properly as well making sure your not set to high.

That could be happening but what I’m referring to is the needle in the carb on the throttle. See the pic. The lower you move the clip the more fuel it allows.

Have you checked the needle on the throttle slide to see what clip it’s on? I would try to move the clip down one or two spots closer to the bottom. And when the engine is running if you can turn the air /fuel screw all the way in the engine should shut down. If not then that screw is worn and needs replacement. The engine should immediately respond to any adjustments on that screw. If not then it’s def going to need a new jet kit. I was looking on eBay and Amazon. It has to be an oem or better brand. It was $27 bucks. It has to have the air fuel screw as well and all jets. I would order one and take the carb completely apart and soak it in a good bath for a day or two. Then blow every port out on that cab with some good air pressure. Reassemble and set the air/fuel screw at 2 full turns from a snug position. That would be my way to go about it.

You will do just fine. Mine took me a week to do. A little each day. Let me know how the jets work out.

The main is the one with the needle. It gets the larger of the two jets. They have numbers on them. Mine were not legible due to being what looks to be worn or sanded maybe during the cleaning process of the previous owner. So if you can read the numbers then lol at the carburetor section of your manual and it clearly explains where they go. But for sure the larger hole jet is at the needle location. Yes all can spray. Wire wheel in a drill and sand paper. I spray a good prep coat on before and spray away! The prep coat is a clear type coat that helps the new paint stick well. And FYI all of this material I bought on line for $125 bucks. That includes the new color matching chain and I was missing the air factory box. That air box assembly was $45 so really it cost me $80 if I wasn’t missing that air box. That chain was only $20 bucks.

Here are a few pics of the work I did. The color I found on eBay and Amazon. PJ1 Color Matched Frame Paint 99-02 Kawasaki Green 12 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00230IC3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UO6DDbBDAQ4ZW The other colors are standard gloss black for nerf bars and then high heat satin finish on the exhaust. The aluminum portion (silencer) I used an aluminum polish called mother’s. It’s great for all soft metals. Mothers 05101 Mag & Aluminum Polish - 10 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GT6DDb4RMNXGF

Let me know if you need the paint color. I found an oem dead on match. How did the carburetor work out ?

The one with the larger hole goes on the main.

Double check and don’t make the same mistake I made. Make sure you put the right jets back in the right spot. When putting the carb back together the pilot jet and the main jets are the same thread. I reversed them and the bike died at as soon as I put it in gear.

Ok figured the blue and brown wires. They are for your rear brake light. One is by the carburetor should run to a brake switch on the rear brake petal. The second set up by the front goes to the right brake handle lever.

Have you jumped the fan to see if it runs ? If so the second test would be to remove the sensor from the radiator and connect a tester to both leads of the sensor and put the tester on continuity. There should be no reading while it’s cool. Then put it in a small pot of water (just the sensor part) and as the water heats up the sensor should close giving you a reading. It should close at about 185-190 deg.

Maybe extra lighting at best because this bike has no battery. It’s self reliant as far as power goes so you really couldn’t add much more onto it.

Yes I agree, it’s for an accessory add on maybe. I will look at my own bike this afternoon to verify. But that was my take as well.

Good luck, keep us posted.

The fan sensor, the wires all in tact ? The blue wires that I see as per the diagram are a 12v positive. The browns I’m not really seeing except for the stator wires. Double check that it’s not a brown with a stripe on it. Meantime put a tester on the blue wires and see if the test for 12v positive.

That would be the fan sensor. Jump them and the fan should come on. But the bike needs to be running obviously. As far as the other two I’m going to take a look now.