Frank Angerano

I would leave it alone. Plug it all in and leave it be. If it prevents the engine from firing then you will have to dig into it. It I doubt that’s good to be the case. When’s the new carb showing up ?

So the more I read up on this the more curious I got. I found multiple wiring diagrams as well as looked up your carburetor. The only thing I could not find is the proper color codes that match your bike. Are you sure of the year ? I found that the four wires going to your carburetor are for the heater (warmer) on the carb. It was added i would guess for colder states to avoid icing from moisture that’s on the intake side of the carburetor. It looks to me that two of the four wires go to a temperature sensor that’s designed to tell the warmer to come on when needed or it comes on straight away and the sensor tells it to shut off when the engine reaches temperature, one or the other. The other two wires go to the warming element Inside the carburetor. There should also be a small black box that is a controller/relay for that warmer. It should be located someplace along the frame in that area of the carb? Ive attaches a carburetor image that should match you bike for reference and posted a link to the carburetor parts. Hope this helps. https://www.partzilla.com/article//catalog/kawasaki/atv/2000/prairie/300/kvf300/b2/carburetor

So guess what screw needs to be adjusted? The air fuel mixture screw!!!!!!! Sucks but yes that’s the one. Please tell me you put a good quality carb on, maybe oem ? Double check the specs and see where they have it set at and put it there. You may need to adjust a hair either way but that gets you close.

Ok got it. Get back to you after I have a look.

And your carburetor has a plug coming off of it to mate up to that?

Believe it or not you can do that but it has to be a running bike Un fortunately. I’ve seen and tried after watching. When the bike is running up to par I’ve seen a person put marks on the flywheel and on the engine casing. After hitting it with the timing light it worked. Crazy stuff but yes. I have to try to find the video. It wa s a good idea. I honestly think your cams are off, hope I’m wrong. But I think you have to go back and look at what was done and try to locate some information on the cams you have or replace with oem cams and sprockets.

@Venom that’s a heck of a write up and a ton of useful information. Metal looks like it was taken down to bare nicely. Keep the pics coming and your progress. Good job. 💪🏻

💪🏻 @Freezeman

Hopefully the carb is a goodie! Let me know how you do and also the colors of the wires on the bottom of the carburetor.

Ok, have you tried to tightening everything first? It looks like it’s an interior seal that’s why I’m asking. Also I looked in the downloads and your right as far as I can see. It’s only the 400 but that manual will work fine as far as I can see. Wiring should be the same What color wires are the ones by the carb. I’m curious so when you get home let me know.

I will take a look right now for you. That rear seal snap a pic for me just curious.

Thank you for the comment on the carburetor write up. Depending on the years make and models it all depends. What also matters is where the bike was sold or manufactured. For instance we’ve seen here on Quadcrazy a lot of members from the west have machines that have the air fuel screw capped off so you can’t adjust due to I would guess emission concerns. Simple drill will fix that. Now back to the wiring/modules. There are only a few components that go to a carburetor from what I’ve seen in my experience over time. 1. Throttle position sensor 2. Injector 3. Carburetor warmer for colder states. 4. Electronic choke. Unless I’ve missed something else any other members please fell free to comment that’s all I can think of. Now as far as Downloading manuals there are two ways to go here at Quadcrazy. Unless something has changed you can be a paid member and have access. Or you have to have ten or more contributing posts and it should be able to download. @Admin correct me if I’m wrong. Let me know if this helps.

Check your exhaust is clear and has no obstructions. The only other thing I can guess it to start testing your secondary coil with a tester. The specifications for the acceptable range are in the manual. Double check the ignition coil is good, check the rectifier etc. It costs nothing to check all of them and can be easily done. I don’t really think it’s an ignition problem and prob just a carburetor adjustment but at least it’s another avenue to go down.

Welcome to Quadcrazy. I would def change the plug but more importantly check your idle. Maybe it’s just a hair low?

Yes I got the pics. What I meant to say was have you tried to line up the cam lobes as per the image (also the key ways on cams) I sent and see if the flywheel is near at TDC. If the cam lobes are no where near the image on the manual then there clearly a problem with timing.

Looking real good @Arizona it’s amazing what a few tools, elbow grease and some spray paint can do! Of course the knowledge as well. Keep the pics coming, this is what I love to see.

Have you followed the diagram I sent you ? You can see the position of the cams in that image.

If that compression is what your showing the the only way at this point for fuel to get into your crank case is from a carburetor leaking fuel into the cylinder head and it’s making its way down the cylinder walls. It has to be. Maybe separate the carburetor from the engine leaving it completely hooked up but pulled away from the manifold connecting it to the cylinder. As if it were in place but pulled a bit away from the engine. See if you notice any gas dripping out of the carb where it connects. I would put a small piece of cardboard under it since cardboard shows moisture right away when it’s wet with the dark brown spots.

Lol well get after it and make sure timing is properly aligned. If so great, if not then well hopefully no hits between the piston and valves.

I’m wondering if there aftermarket cams and sprockets in that engine. Maybe hot cams? Take a look at this hopefully it helps.

Ok let me know I’m curious.

I would say forget any white marks. You should have a clear stamped line that’s supposed to be 180 from each other that aligns with the top of the engine head cover. Just like you seen in that video. And make sure the flywheel is on the T mark on the sight hole.

I would check the spark plug color after it starts acting up. See if it’s dark and fouled. If so then your fuel mixture is off. Stick with the oem carb and set the mixture screw as per spec and maybe a slight adjustment. But first check what your spark plug looks like as soon as it starts acting up. Black color bad, nice light brown color is good.

That’s a great video. Sounds like the terminator doing the timing. Lol. Let me know what you find out.

Nice work, be sure to use plenty of grease so you don’t have any crazy friction during initial start up. Maybe change the oil one more time after break in. Hopefully everything worked out good and your ready to roll. Ride safe.