Frank Angerano

Looks to me like you have to pull that sprocket.

Have you taken a tester or a test light and check for power at the relay ? Not the larger red wires. There is a smaller plug on the relay as well as a fuse. I’m sure you checked the fuse but have you checked for power on the smaller wires ? We just had a member with a bad relay that had no power coming into the fuse.

There are marks. Someplace on there. Unless the sprocket was put on backwards and your not seeing them. It’s either a dot or a line.

Honestly if that engine is having trouble at the top of the stroke plus the backfire makes me thing the timing jumped a spot. I would double check before you keep cranking.

That’s some good stuff. I would def like to see them diagrams. Post a few pics if you can. We just had a member that needed a diagram for the water cooled rapidity.

Ok well that’s a great post Lisa 43 and single! 😂 just kidding. All I’ve ever used with Quadcrazy is my iPhone it’s easier for me. Any additional information you have in the Kymco can be posted right here. If it’s a downloadable manual then maybe @Admin can explain how it’s vetted for any malware and put on the Quadcrazy platform library. Its very much appreciated since there are quite a lot of members that have these machines. As far as a valve adjustment that should be pretty standard as any other machine and most likely long over due. Did you happen to do a compression test ?

Ok now I understand. Well I would assume it would not fire because of the water in the fuel. I would set the air fuel mixture screw at 1-3/4 just to get the engine fired up and adjust from there. If your not familiar with the final adjusting let me know and I will explain. It’s pretty simple. But this all hinges on if the bike fires up. My guess is once you change the fuel you should be good to go if carb is clean like you said. Double check for spark as good practice and make sure your plug is not fouled and give it a shot. If spark is good and the bike still does not fire up then hit it with a little starting fluid into the air intake. If she tries to fire up then there’s obviously a fuel delivery issue.

I do think they get them up and running, I think that’s why we never hear from them. Once they get on that thing and start to ride it’s see ya later !!

It’s amazing but people do it more then we think. Well hopefully there was no damage to the harness. Have you some anything to the bikes yet ?

Ok I was just curious. Looks dangerous! I thought it was a metal tube or something rigid.

What do you mean a bit of a choke issue ? Did you disassemble the carburetor? If not you may need to open the carb up and take it apart. Ultrasonic cleaning will only go so far. They loosen things up quite well but if the stuff that came loose can’t get out of the carburetor then it’s useless. I would open the float bowl and blow the crap out of it. Blow into where the fuel line connects and raise the float up and down while you doing this to make sure air is coming through and into the carb. Blow out all the jets etc, that should clear things up, by chance did you mess around with the air fuel screw ?

Have you checked that drain screw carb diagram for a washer of any sort ? I find it strange that nothing goes there. You can always add a drop of the high heat silicone and send it in. Be sure to wipe away any left over silicone.

The main reason I’ve experienced in rectifiers going bad is heat! Some people paint them while cleaning up and painting a bike. Also a lot of them are located close to the exhaust and in a place where air flow is limited. The diode inside is the first thing to go and that causes a back flow of current. So it may just be that.

@Ryan Geiler what kind of gas cap is on that bike ? That small vent tube that’s sticking up is that flexible ?

That’s a way high rpm for a start up. A cold start rpm should be about 1500 and come down to 800-900. Hopefully your new cheap carb will give you some good indicators as to what’s going on. My guess is the engine will fire right up, idle and run well sitting. Once you go to ride it then you will see how the cheap carbs react and have flat spots on the throttle but maybe you will get lucky.

That’s a good price range to go off of. I have a max of $500 when buying. Hopefully that bayou is not burnt up due to the wires being backwards. I’ve never seen that color pattern on a bayou either. I’m really hoping they both only need a good tare down and cleansing of the carbs and that’s it. What’s with the seat for the bayou did it come with the bike? I don’t see it. I’ve gotten into making and installing my own seat covers and they come out great. I use an air powered staple gun and they look sharp. I but whatever material I need from amazon. If your going to keep the plastics the original color then spray them down good with armor all now and let it soak in, it helps a lot. Keep us posted.

They really could only be maybe two things. An electronic choke control or a throttle position sensor. I don’t think your machine had the TPS. Some models also came with a warmer on the carb for the colder days Two wires they were located on the rear of the carburetor attached to the bottom Intake? What color are the wires? Can you post a picture or two?

Def going to make your money back two fold minimum. Keep us posted.

Wow super clean ! Good find.

In would start by pulling the cylinder off of the engine and then the piston out. Take a good look and see if you can find where the failure happened. Maybe the wrist pin clip came out, the rings maybe went etc. As @06kfx440 stated check the main crank shaft for any play. If all else checks out on then your good to go. If it’s just the cylinder head and piston then try to locate a new or used on on eBay. If you find a good used cylinder head then spend the money and put a new piston in as well. Makes sense to do this since your going through the effort. Make sure your oil pump is working properly and that the oil is getting to the head and lube all areas up good prior to start up. My guess is it was prob a failure of some sort with regard to the piston and the wrist pin clips or rings.

Wow great finds!!!! You have to be over the moon with that find. What did you pay ?

Very nice. I love that last pic of that wide trail or maybe a sand dune? but that’s great stuff. That fourtrax is in great condition, and looks like a good mix of bikes. Looks like you had a blast.

Haha that was my exact question I was going to ask @BuggyMasters, sounds like a typical Chinese carburetor. These cheaper carbs all react the same. They have a flat spot in them that you need to get past in order to accelerate. And even after that spot is past it will not stay accelerated for long. Bottom line is they don’t work well. Honestly I would rather take my chances and buy a used oem carburetor from eBay and rebuild it if need be.

I agree with @06kfx440 on the pilot jet may somehow still be partially blocked. It happens, I would make sure all of your oem jests are clean back in place, aftermarket cheap ones will not work properly. Make sure all o rings and seals that you may have swapped match in size, oem versus what you put in. The way you are explaining the bowl overflow how I understand it, the screw is leaking ? Not the hose overflow? If thats the case there is most likely a seat gasket or o ring not in place or not properly put back together. If the overflow hose has fuel coming out of it then yes as @06kfx440 says it’s a float adjustment. On the very rear of the carb you have one more jet. It’s located on the intake side/back of the carburetor. It’s called a pilot air jet. Take a look at that and unscrew it and clean it good. Make sure your diaphragm has no holes in it and it’s installed and seated properly at the top of the carburetor since it works on vacuum and don't want any leaks. Back to the air fuel screw, I’m assuming you cleaned it well and put it back in properly and it’s hopefully the oem screw, but double check that the tip of that screw is very pointed and in good condition and the sequence of the screw going back in was right, screw, spring, metal washer and then the o ring. That’s important that it’s correctly done. Then turn the air/fuel screw in and out as the engine is running to see how much the engine reacts to the adjustments. Screw it all the way in and see if the engine shuts down. If not then the air/fuel screw is having problems. If it is responding good then set it at 1-3/4 turns out from a snug position and start the engine. Slowly turn the screw in or out, my guess would be out and the engine should start to rev higher. The higher the better since the air and fuel are mixing properly hence causing higher rpms. (That’s a good thing) Keep adjusting until this high rev starts to break up a bit. Stop turning the screw any further and turn back a hair to that sweet spot where the rev was at its highest point. That’s the sweet spot yiur looking for. Now adjust your idle down to about 800-900 rpm’s or a happy spot you feel comfortable with and see how she runs. I agree with your initial diagnosis of losing power could be a dirty carb issue but unfortunately people think that a new jet or rebuild kit is in order when he truth is it’s only a matter of opening the carb up carefully disassembling it , cleaning and reassembling it. But that’s water under the bridge at this point. This could also have been noting more then a fouled spark plug or a tired secondary ignition coil. Hopefully this helps you out.

Haha well maybe if I’m ever near you I would take you up on the beer. I’m glad everything worked out good, hopefully your good to go for a long time. Your adjustments and final dialing in sound right on point. Well done! Ride safe brother.