Frank Angerano

Sounds like a great time @Ajmboy it seemed like a very busy year for fireworks. My town literally looked like it had a heavy fog condition that’s how much smoke there was in the air. We had stuff going off everywhere! Bbq 🍗 for sure and plenty of bud light and Coronas for mamma and some good company. We are heading out Monday AM to the tropics for a while. Def post some pics when we get back. Well deserved vaca!

That’s a common problem with lots of connectors with these bikes. Most of the time it’s a simple fix but we (even myself) in the past have started pulling parts off. Now that’s one of the first things I look for and open up, clean and add dialectic grease and check for either a slipped out pin from the base of the clip or I’ve also found that wires break at the bottom of the connector but the vinyl insulation is still good. It’s usually very flimsy when you bend it. But that’s a great find and an easy fix! So the hard start, what’s your thoughts on the problem ? Have you checked the amperage while cranking ?

The new relay. Unplug it from the wired plug that came with it and face it at the camera so you see the prongs where the wires go. Snap a pic of that. It should look like the picture I’ve attached here. There’s a small square on the bottom of the plug and a larger one at the top. This way you know what way the wires go. Then all you do is connect your wires to each one of the new relay wires accordingly. The only thing I’m concerned with is why your wire colors don’t all match up. Where did you order the relay from ?

And does it move freely ? Linkage connected properly? Have you is inspected everything for proper operation?

Unplug the relay form the wires. Take a look at the pic I sent you of the relay itself. Face the relay that way and match the wires.

Post the pics of the new relay and the wires.

That could be a solenoid, a dirty plug or connection, switch contacts etc. Nothing burnt up though right ? Fuses were all good prior to the rectifier swap out ? Nothing happened to the bike? Got banged? Any service work done that could have resulted in a pinched wire ? Check along the neck of the bike on the front end where everything comes up to the controls. I would think you should also unplug, clean and add dialectic grease to the connections as well because this honestly could be something along those lines.

That sucks. Can’t trust the cheap ones. Same thing with the carburetors. Not good.

The gear indicator switch. It’s located on the transmission. Should have a Red wire with a white stripe. Also should be a purple wire and a green wire with a white stripe? See if you can locate them. This way we can confirm that it’s the correct diagram. That switch will lock you out of any starting capability if it’s faulty. You can jump wires to test it and see if you get dash lights. The red with white stripe and the green with white stripe look like it will bring the dash lights on if jumped together however you should only use a test light or ohms meter to jump these two Incase there’s and issue nothing will blow. Also the ignition switch. Test the plug for power and see if you have 12 volts at the ignition. If so what color wire has the power it should be the red wire.

Do you have the acceptable range shown in the manual for ohms on the pick up coil ? My guess is possibly the cdi sh** the bed when you used the cheap rectifier. Something caused a dead short. OEM always when it comes to the cdi and the rectifier. The stator you can get away with but I’ve never had any luck with the cheap parts like a cdi and or regulator/rectifier.

I never knew the belt had to go in one way or the other I know they put arrows on them as good practice to reinstall with wear in the same points. They show the belt number and arrow but the belt it’s self has no difference on direction as it’s constructed the same way no matter which way it goes on. I’ve pulled a belt out that had no marks on it. I’ve put them back in the opposite way and never noticed any slipping. Maybe I was just lucky. Anyway let’s hope it’s just a matter of an oil change.

Great pics! Enjoy the time off and ride safe!

So I’ve looked everywhere and it all comes up the same. The old number is superseded by the new number. The old part is roughly 0.7 mm or 3/4 of an inch in diameter and the new one is 26mm or 1.02 inches in diameter. Very strange. I was looking on eBay and found the part number for the oem one and it’s available if you want to take a chance? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333205331528

Sounds good. I’m going to go through the diagram today and see if I can point you in the right direction. I will also post the diagram here for you to use and go through.

Hey mark welcome to Quadcrazy. What’s the reverse shift process for that bike? I’ve never owned one but have seen a few out there. Is it a break lever pull in or a manual shift lever ? Maybe post some pics.

Exactly @davefrombc it has to be a safety switch issue. What do you mean you have power everywhere?

Hey mike, glad you posted your own topic. Easier to keep track of your problem this way. Ok so have you checked anything so far like the main fuses etc ? Did anything happen like battery issues etc? You want to look at the basic stuff first like all fuses including the main fuses that control the start and dash lights cycle. Then wiggle the ignition key, sometimes the ignition gets worn out and it’s in need of a new ignition. The contacts in the ignition get worn believe it or not and don’t make good contact. Wiggling the key or pushing in on the ignition switch in the on position works. Secondly is the neutral safety switches and the safety items that prevent a bike from starting. Are you handy with a tester because this will be one of those problems that will require some testing? I can get you a diagram for that bike once I know what your up against. You will also be able to download the manual yourself after 10 contributing posts on the forum. So if it were me I would start to check the fuses and main stuff first like mentioned above and let’s go from there. We also have a member that loves Polaris @JacobSlabach I’m sure he will have something to add here. Take a look at the things i mentioned first and see what you have going on. Let us know.

Wow ok ! That’s so strange. I am going to look at a few parts. Gone me a little bit.

No problem brother. We can help you along. There are a lot of members here that have Polaris quads etc as well as members that have electrical experience. But first go to the right side drop down menu and click on start a new topic so it stays current and has its own topic. Post your problem and I’m sure you will get this squared away.

What’s up Mike and welcome to Quadcrazy! What kind of quad do you have and are you having a problem?

Great point @mikeexplorer. I would pull the cover first and see what’s going on with the belt. Unlikely it’s the belt just based on the knocking noise you heard and the overall durability of the belt. That wet clutch system has really only a few moving parts to check but you will need special tool to remove the clutch after the the covers are off and a press to get the shaft out of the wet clutch cover if the shaft is bad. Also be careful with the nuts holding the clutch and other parts on the shafts, some of them are right thread. All metric sockets like 34 and 32 mm and torx tips will be needed for some of the screws, the gaskets should be reusable but have extras just in case. You can remove the covers and see the clutch shoes without having to remove the clutch for the most part. If you used the wrong oil like @mikeexplorer said then it’s likely you will need to replace the clutch itself. The oil burns the primary shoes up and does a number on them. I’ve seen them sanded down a bit but that only shortens the life and not worth putting the old one back. When you remove the belt make sure you put an arrow on the belt facing the way it was so when it goes back in the wear on the belts stays the same.

The smoking could be oil leaking in from the valve seals. I don’t think that bike is water cooled correct? What color is the smoke? Oil burn off is a light blueish color. Black smoke is a rich fuel condition and could be fixed by adjusting the carb and putting a fresh spark plug in. Possibly checking that your spark is healthy as well. Maybe a week ignition coil. White smoke is when you have coolant leaking into the cylinder head that burns off. This would usually be a leaking head gasket etc. This would also result in a hot running engine condition since you would loose coolant and have a low coolant condition. If it’s NOT liquid cooled I would check that the exhaust is not leaking at the point where the engine and exhaust pipe connect. There is a metal compression ring that goes in between the engine and exhaust pipe. That could be bad and leaking exhaust. Then check that the exhaust is not blocked in anyway. Take it off and make sure is clear.

That’s great, I think we all have that one neighbor who likes to blow sh** up and play with 🧨. I will be on the bbq and having a few 🍻 as I get ready for my trip. I am heading out Monday for a few weeks to the 🌴🌴🌴🌴🌴🌴🌴🌴🌴🌴🌴🌴🌴 I will be off the grid for a while and away from any technology. looking foreword to it. Catch up when I get back I’m sure.

Yes sir and a long three weeks! I will be off of the grid for the next 15 days or so I will try to check in from time to time but it will be difficult.

Correct @davefrombc easy non invasive stuff first. These items usually don’t cost a dime and often tell the story for the most part as to what’s going on.