Frank Angerano

Oh brother. Have a happy 4th.

Awesome! Great job brother !!!!! Now get on that bad boy and ride! Ride safe.

On well it’s one of mine so let’s get the manual downloaded and pick it apart. Give me a little bit

Have you tried to put the old one back to see if it does the same thing ? My feeling is whatever is going on will be a dead short so take a deep breathe and let’s start looking over things to see if there is a wire shorted out someplace or a faulty ignition connection etc. What’s the set up ? How May wires are plug in and how many are bolt up. There has to be a dead short someplace here.

Ok well that’s not good. So when you wire it up everything plugs right up and your putting wires right back were they were ? Any differences in the old to new ? And have you reinstalled the old one to see if it does the same thing?

Hope it’s not diesel !!! 😢 higher octane gas has that reddish orange tint to it. It could be the two bolts that hold the petcock in, or the rubber gasket in between the petcock and gas tank. Or the turn portion of the valve, it has a clip that holds it on. It snaps on the back of the petcock body. Double check that’s pressed in all the way and not coming off of the valve. It’s the part that’s stamped with the on, off reserve. Lastly is the fuel line itself. That hose on there is a thinner factory house. Sometime the top of the hose splits from the expanded pressure of being on the petcock.

I want to wish everyone a happy and safe 4th of July. If your out there riding, camping, blasting off fireworks 💥 or doing whatever just be safe! Post some pics of what you did and have fun.

That’s a good find ! Nice work, that’s an old type in line fuse. I would order the newer style and splice it right in. I use these and they work great just make sure you put the right size fuse in. You can see the amperage of the old glass fuse on the metal part. Waterproof car fuse holder 5/10/15/20/30A Amp In Line Blade Fuse Holder with 10 pcs fuse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DLUQ1BW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9KhhDbSWH2JTZ

I looked up the part number and it’s showing that the 26mm does indeed fit so I think your good to go.

It looks like it will fit. Only way to be sure obviously is to try it. But i would measure it first before you slap it on and see what the numbers look like. Quick question. What’s the part number on the original one.

There are people out there that will buy it just for the engine, that rear rack, fenders and plastics etc. Its in rough shape but I bet you will get double what you paid.

That’s good to know it was at least covered. Yes definitely a spark plug! Good luck and please post some pics.

Post a pic I’m curious to see what it looks like. I’m curious about the dimensions. We may be talking about thickness (26mm) of the sensor and not the circumference? I guess you would have to see the dimensions of the part to be sure

You should have had download capability I would assume but I’ve been wrong before. Maybe @Admin can help you out.

I was thinking about the Yamaha for some reason about the plastics. Me and you always seem to get into these long posts and I get mixed up with all the stuff we get into and cover. All good stuff though! Take a look at the post I added regarding cdi boxes. Sparked by another member. No pun intended. Some good info.

Welcome to Quadcrazy. When you say overhaul are you talking about tearing it completely down and putting it back together or tearing into the usual suspects that prevent a bike from running due to sitting for a long time? Secondly has the bike been laid up inside someplace dry or outside? Has the fuel been drained from the bike and the carburetor run dry before storing/letting it sit? These are all factors because if a bike was ran dry and shut down then the carb would be clean for the most part and start right up if the tank is clean and fresh fuel added. I'm going to say none of the above happened except for the possibility of it being in a dry place. So over all the carburetor def should come off and be cleaned. Pick up a can of gunk carburetor cleaner or soaking can and clean it out good. Use a small piece of wire and air pressure to blow out all the small ports and jets. Fresh plug, battery and all fluids like you said and definitely check the differential fluids. Hopefully the tires aren’t dry and cracked. If so amazon has tires for that bike. You can re do the seat cover yourself if needed. It’s cheap to do and looks great. New grips from amazon will run you $12 to $15 bucks. One thing I want to mention and only bc it happened on the 220 I rebuilt and a few others that have come across the forum would be the neutrality safety switch. This switch locks out the ignition and dash lights and is a common problem with this series of the bayou. So if that is one of your problems it’s easily diagnosed but a pain in the as* to change. Good luck and keep us posted. Post a few pics of the bike as you go.

Let’s see some pics! I love the old bikes.

See if this helps. http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/honda-bolt-rr-axle-43127-ha2-000-part.html?msclkid=94aa275148c215c41eb77a4a7166cda9 Good luck.

This is a good question asked by @Johnny Chancellor. I put it in a new topic so it does not get lost. We all know we need a cdi box but I bet a lot of the members here don’t know how it works. This is a good explanation of a cdi box including what it does, how it works and what “cdi” stands for. Ive posted two links here. Feel free to add to the list! https://www.elprocus.com/capacitor-discharge-ignition-cdi-system-working/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_discharge_ignition

Welcome to Quadcrazy, I would check the rectifier and see what’s going on. It’s possible that it’s bad causing a voltage issue. Then I would check the voltage at the battery and see what you have there including cranking if you can get it to crank. You may be right on a bad ignition. Double check the the ground cable(black) where it bolts up to the frame from the wire coming off the battery. Wiggle the key also while this is going on to see if it starts. If so then while it’s running wiggle the key to see if it acts up again.

It can’t be the right part. There has to be a cross reference issue etc. I would double check your numbers. 18 to 26 mm not clicking. The TPS is a very temperamental part so should get numbers re checked and the calibration tool as well from Amazon so it’s installed properly.

If you have hydraulic lifters then no there would not be a timing chain. I was assuming based on the bike. If that’s the case then it would possibly be collapsed lifters. Oil pressure would not be a reason for that kind of slack but you still need to make sure it’s pumping to the head.

It can jump. Don’t let the sprocket fool you. If you look at some of the other posts you will find that timing chains stretch and chain tensioners break.

Have you checked the timing is lined up and has not jumped a few teeth on the sprocket. Your going to have to bring the flywheel to the T mark and then expose the sprocket on the top end so you can see the marks that line up the timing. Just make sure you verify the flywheel is on the T mark. Sometimes it can be deceiving due to other marks on the flywheel.

Is a rocker for that bike that much ? The bike looks good. I would say go for it. If you go to flip it then that tick is going to be a turn off to the buyer.